88pathoffroad

Good idea. Looks like that works fine to me.

Dude, each one of those pics is 1.2-1.3 MEGABYTES in filesize. Resize those things! We don't need to see fingerprints on the surface of the vinyl in your interior! I dunno about you, but my monitor won't go any bigger than 1280x1064, and those pics are 2048x1536!

It's not a problem on the VG30i engines. No upper intake to get in the way...

Ew, AC BBS posts. hehehehe

The needles should pull off the posts with needlenose pliers if you're CAREFUL. Note where each needle was pointing so you put them back on the right way. I can't tell you how many people I've seen say "Yeah, I got this cool new white indiglo guage face set that lights up green and blue and red and neon orange, but all my needles are off cause I didn't remember where they were supposed to point when I put 'em back on..."

Maybe my alignment was off before I cranked them, I dunno. Maybe I'm just lucky? I really don't know on the stalling problem, 87pathy. It could be any number of things that they didn't want to take the time to check into and find out, probably. Mine did that for a while because the timing was off and my air filter was beyond clogged, you wouldn't believe how much sand and dust came out of the K&N when I took it out and cleaned it. Do you have new(er) fuel filter, air filter, plugs wires, cap and rotor? Try a tune-up if it hasn't been looked at for a while...

I'd like to know how they intend to align(or re-align) the rear of your Nissan.

Very simple answer: Crank the torsion bars up. You'll easily get an inch out of stock bars, and you probably won't even need a realignment for a 1" lift and leveling. I cranked mine up almost all the way and didn't align it for two years, no unusual tire wear or other problems. Torsion bars sag over time because they're designed differently from leafs and coils, obviously. They simply sag over time. You don't really see the same problem with Chevys and Ford IFS setups because they use stiffer bars, I believe. Nissan didn't use stiff enough bars, which is trading ride quality for long-term durability and stability. Cranking up the t-bars(or replacing them entirely with aftermarket ones) is pretty much the only answer. Nothing lasts forever...

I believe the term "Wedge" is coined by PIAA's special superwhite coated 194 bulbs.

Home Depot or someplace like that. They sell 3x3 foot squares as flooring for stuff like vans and garage floors. I think.

Mwuahahahahaha Dammn, we're smooth!

There's an access hole in the floor in the rear to get to the fuel pump. You don't usually have to drop the gas tank out to get to it.

You can move the brake load sensing valve downwards a bit to compensate. It'll take a new bracket or hole to mount it, but it wouldn't be hard to do.

Actually, since I finished the spacers for mine... They turn out to be .75" thick, and I could make a set for you if you want some. They're cheap, $10 USD plus ship.

*petpet* It's OK, no worries.

Oh, and a note on the spring spacers: if anyone wants to make their own, a 2.5 lb coffee can is about the right size to begin with... Use a utility knife with a brand new razorblade and have more blades on hand, cause they dull out pretty fast on thick rubber...wierd as that may seem. I can also make more spacers pretty easily if anyone wants some. $10 plus shipping, not to exceed $4 in the continental US!

Shoot, that's not bad for torch-cut stuff. Are you sure? I really think they're laser-cut...I've seen some stuff come off an old CNC machine that was just like that. They're pretty uniform for hand-cut material... Plus, you gotta take into consideration that it's 1" thick steel! I finished these: They're actually .75" thick, now that I take the caliper to them and measure accurately. Dangit. Ah well, I'll also re-use the old 1/4" spacers that are already on top of the springs and get another full inch out of the rear...

Yes, the hex bit is part of the O2 sensor. When I did mine, I just stuck the wrench on it and hit it a couple of times with a small hammer. There wasn't room for a BFH, hehehe. You can buy a O2 sensor socket at most auto parts stores that has a cut-out in the side of it(for the wire to come out of) that might make it easier if the hex part is still in decent enough shape. Another thing I might do in your situation would be to use a wire wheel on a drill(or a wire brush) and clean the rust off that bugger first...

Do too. The clutches(multiple) in an auto go inside the sprag/drum assembly and have steel friction discs inbetween them. There are anywhere from 4 to 6 clutch discs inside an auto, depending on manufacturer, construction and application. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/automatic-transmission11.htm

Harbor Freight sells those too, but they break/dull pretty easily. Cheap tools...

Heh, what're you offering as bait? ...it better involve a pretty girl, some beer and at least one pizza!

Worn steering, out of balance tires and old bushings will do that to you...but it's WAY too expensive to just replace everything that might be wrong with it.

The only thing wrong is that the #2 doesn't fire? That's not a timing problem, it's a spark or fueling issue. Broken spark plug? Old wires letting the spark arc thru the boot to the block instead of to the plug? Two wires routed to the wrong ports on the distributor cap? The firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6 on a VG30i V6.

This will be my sixth alternator in five years. Hopefully the higher output model will solve my problems.

I dunno about that. There are three distinctly different forward gears, then it simply locks the TC for OD. AFAIK, there is no "fourth gear" to shift into. Unless I'm completely wrong, but I don't think I am.