88pathoffroad

Since they didn't change body styling or engine/drivetrain features until the 1990 4-door models, you should be just fine using an '87 for parts on your '89. Everything will interchange as far as I know, and I've been junkyard parts-sourcing for quite a while.

Yeah, it sounds more like a transmission mount or engine mount than a u-joint.

Sway bar on one end, control arm on the other end, probably the lower control arm.

"I don't want my mass air flow sensor and housing getting damanged or the intake hose wearing a hole in it." How the hell would having a cone filter on that damage your MAF? A cone filter weighs at most one pound. It's not going anywhere, man. What other intake hose are you referring to that you're so worried about? Most of the extraneous intake stuff is removed when you put the cone filter on, anyway. Just so you know, I've seen many people use these filters and I've never heard of any problems with any of them. I think you're being overly cautious.

A solid axle conversion isn't something any normal Joe can do...it involves cutting off the entire IFS system and getting the new axle, spring perches, shocks, crossmember, steering, gearing and everything set up just right. Then you have to get a new front driveshaft built...it all adds up. That's why I was asking earlier....MOOKIE! HOW MUCH?!?

More properly, you should chamfer the inside edges of the cut end. It'd be a good idea to bevel the very top of the spring right on the cut end, 'cause it doesn't wind down to flat like the stock springs do. Remove the sharp edges. That's it.

I've got a BFG M/T 31x10.50 mounted on a stock Isuzu Trooper rim inside on my stock tire mount. It's a real tight fit, but after you get it in there and bolted down, not a problem. Of course, mine has about 50% tread left, so a fully treaded tire might be an even tighter fit, but yes, it's entirely possible.

What would you say the total investment was on that project for the SFA alone? That looks REAL nice, man. Good work! I want a few more pics!

Nobody makes that, sorry. Go to the junkyard and start pulling parts. I'd rate it a 9 at least.

I think your poll choices are too black and white. Simply loosening the restrictions on lower level cusswords would be OK, while restrictions on more severe language would be a must, I agree. Do as you see fit, it's your site. I think everyone should be able to vent a little, but not to the point where we all have to read blatant profanity, know what I mean?

Humid air isn't bad for an engine, just large amounts of water all at once.

You got ripped off if they charged $20 for support struts off a 90's Pathfinder, man. Dam.n junkyards.

I got mine at a local auto parts store. They're just plain replacement hydraulic struts, made by StrongArm. The store had a whole rack of struts, ready to go. I think mine were $20 each.

All I gotta say is: http://www.aggressiveoffroad.com Click here for a pic of Carl's "PathPounder" with a 383 V8. It's pumping about 375 HP...he was running 35's on a front Dana 44 and rear Ford 9" last I heard. Atlas II transfer case...TH700-R4 transmission...and so on... http://www.aggressiveoffroad.com/Pathfinder.htm http://www.aggressiveoffroad.com/pthpndr8.htm http://www.aggressiveoffroad.com/v8Path.htm http://www.aggressiveoffroad.com/PathfinderSAS4.htm

Also, get an aftermarket transmission oil cooler and completely bypass the stock cooler. The stock cooler will clog up and kill your transmission.

By the way, do R&P gears swap between LSD 300ZX diffs and Pathy front diffs, are they already the same ratio, or what? I was WONDERING about those things....wouldn't mind having a posi front diff, myself...

Is anyone else tired of seeing those bullcrap Jeep ads about them all being "Trail Rated"? They're hyping it hoping the masses of sheep that buy Sheeps will think it's something special. What a crock! You can't even fit 31's on a JGC without at least a 2" lift! The Wranglers are different. I'll grant them some leeway there, being as there aren't really any other major companies producing vehicles of that platform and size. The Rubicon is good(if you resplice the sensors for the electric lockers so you can use them at more than 10 MPH). The Liberty is an absolute joke(It also has the worst history of failing and substandard parts of any new vehicle that I've ever seen. Check out carsurvey.org and see how many times the word "lemon" comes up with regards to Liberties). Liberty "Renegade", my arse. Yeah, rebel against the soccer mom image so you can take it to the grocery store instead...watch out for that curb, mom! I've seen JGC's and Cherokees pull 2-wheel-peel maneuvers and get stuck in a spot that I just drove straight through in 2WD! "Trail Rated" my behind. I love it when a Jeep can't drive up a hill in wet grass because it only gets one front and one rear tire spinning on those spiffy skinny no-tread street tires they come with. Hahahaha.

There is a fuse for both, yes.

Well, that's only if he's comfortable taking apart his rear diff down to the third member case. Hehe

You could also just use a quick splice and not have to cut anything at all. Those "crimpy-thingies" as you so eloquently put it, are called quick splice connectors or splice connectors. The proper way to reconnect cut automotive wiring is to solder the ends back together and use either electrical tape or shrink tubing to insulate the wiring. JasonMiller: No. If you wire it so that the driving light relay wire is attached to the high beams, then your driving lights will only turn on when the high beams are on. If you wire it so the relay turns on using the low beam wire, they will come on with your low beams. How hard is it to understand? Sheesh. Here's a simply worded bit I found in thirty seconds with a Google search.

Nick, you would recommend chopping off the low beam headlight wire just so your driving lights work? I think you left a few details out, there...

Use a voltmeter or voltage tester to identify any wire with 12V coming to it. Hopefully the radar detector doesn't pull too much amperage in normal use to pop the fuse for the accessory you're drawing the power off of. Grounding it to any solid metal fixture should work fine.

I did both of my front axle inner CV boots myself and it cost me like $20 per side for the boots. Good learning experience, too.

The Nissan H233B LSD's don't work very well to begin with. If your Pathy has more than 100K miles, it'll most likely just plain be worn out. Take a look underneath your Pathfinder from the rear bumper. Look slightly to the left of the center of your axle. There should be an orange sticker denoting "LSD" applied to the axlehousing. Sometimes the stickers fall off or are covered in dirt, tho. Some SE Pathfinders didn't come with a LSD in the first place, so you'll need to verify whether or not you have one before worrying about what fluid type to use in it. A simple test is to jack up the rear wheels only, put the transmission in neutral(engine OFF), and spin one tire. If both tires spin in the same direction, you have a limited slip diff. If they spin in opposite directions, or only one tire spins, you have an open diff. And yes, the friction modifier additive is a good thing to put in with the gear oil when you change it. If you don't put it in, it won't necessarily hurt anything in the clutch packs, it just won't lock up as well as it might otherwise. Go by the manufacturer's reccomendations on fluid type and weight.

Ditto. Rolling resistance is increased with wider tires.