systemf

Are you popin many CVs? <- serious question

I know, and I used your results as one of the determining factors for doing mine. I did want hard evidence of what the cams give you which is why I ran the dyno tests (still have to run the after dyno test). Also, I'm not sure if there is something different on the left hand steer models in North America, but I couldn't get that swivel rachet to fit on the left hand side cam bolt so I built my own tool. I even purchased the same rachet you showed in the pics. Also when you pulled the harmonic balancer using the jaw pulled there is a risk of destroying the rubber on between the pulley's and the balancer or chiping the brittle metal off around the pulley end. I learned this the hardway because mine always sticks requiring tons of force to get it off. The correct type of puller to is pictured and will not destroy the balancer assuming you have the bolts threaded in. You can just barely see some chips in the outside of my pulley caused from trying to remove it with a jaw type puller. The puller I am using requires two bolts and I think they are M6 .75 pitch about 3 inches long and some large washers. Oh and they used your post in the HOW-TO because it does apply to most VG motors. The firewall maybe a little different, but almost everything else is similar enough where it counts.

I ran it for awhile. Expect lower fuel economy, but it shouldn't hurt anything. I ran Delo 400 for YEARS in my Z24 and got compliments on the wear in the head when I had it rebuilt. If your oil consumption is coming through the valve seals, which I would guess it is, the thicker oil will not reduce it as much.

I used to be a timing chain person, until I replaced the timing belt on a VG motor. It was without a doubt one of the easiest in depth repairs I have ever done to any automobile. Nissan's way of doing the timing belt even made changing timing belts on my Honda much easier. I have done the timing belt on my Q in about 3 hours with beer breaks. Now, I have also done a timing chain on a Z24 and let me tell you once that VQ motor chain starts slapping, assuming anyone owns one long enough (200k miles), then the VG doesn't seem like such a bad motor. It is a much easier motor to work on in my opinion. As for the VQ being thirsty? My friends own a Murano AWD with the VQ and got an average of 22mpg on their vacation including some dirt road trips into the mountains. That is much better than my stock Q with a VG would get. I'm not saying the VQ isn't a great motor, it is, but it is also much more disposable giving people the power they think they need while reducing the ease of maintenance and longevity. I have 207k miles on the caR50 and 140k miles on my Q. Both pull compression numbers at what the FSM says a healthy motor should with deviations of less than 14psi per cylinder. (172-184psi) I challenge any VQ owner to run the same test.

I will post all updates here: http://overlandtrucks.com/phpB....php?t=1527&start=15

The R50 was also available with the TD27T...at least in New Zealand, maybe OZ too And once again, who has more than 150k miles on a VQ motor. How long are these lasting with an open deck and aluminum blocks? The VG maybe the grunt of the bunch but I would rather have it 50miles from the middle of no where when it comes to reliability.

So who has a butt-load of miles on the VQ? more than 150k?

Turns out I had a vacuum line disconnected and the MAP EGR lines crossed. Engine runs much better. Lost a little low end. Anything above 2k is better than before. Above 3k the engine REALLY starts to pull. Dyno results will be much more accurate than my butt. One thing I noticed is that the engine runs a lot smoother except at idle where the lope is much more defined than I thought. It almost sounds like a muscle car, and the vibrations can be slightly felt inside the cab. Anything above 1k is vibration free. I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND THIS GRIND FOR AUTOMATICS. A much milder grind would suite them well. This is based off where I cruise on the highway (around 2.6k to 3k) VS my QX4 which would cruise at 2.2k to 2.7k with tires. Schneider does offer milder grinds that would work for the auto. I will have gas mileage numbers in a couple of weeks.

Not sure about that grind. It will lope at idle. Truck is back together. Drove it 10 miles with the timing off and didn't reset the ECU so no accurate performance data. It does idle pretty tough (almost sounds really low like a small V-8) and has a mild lope. No OBDII codes so far.

Schneider can do whatever grind you want. Also, these are REGRINDS, not new cams. Now if my cams could get here so I can put the damn thing back together.

Better...I have a before Dyno sheet and will get an after dyno run so I can say EXACTLY how much power and were you can expect that power to be. I will also report on the OBDII compatiblity...something no one has done yet to my knowledge.

Intake/Exhaust, 260/270, .420"/.440

Last night I resurfaced the lifters. They look just like the picture (in the link below), before you could see wear lines. Now I am waiting on parts to come in........... http://redz31.suomiz.net/pages/headwork.html#lifters Here are some pictures of the lifter resurfacing. This was done with 1000grit and some wD40 on the paper. The picture was taken on the first pass. All lifters got two passes just to make sure the previous wear had been removed. This one is blurry but you get the idea, right is resurface, left is not. further away

Rubber bands to hold the lifters in. Tons of dirt stuck behind the timing belt cover on the cam seal. Cams have room to come out. The cams looked to be in good condition. I am going to resurface the lifters and reuse them.

#1 TDC This damn thing never wants to come apart. Finally I got it off. This took an hour. Left Valve cover off. Right hand valve cover off. I made this tool to get the rear cam bolts off and it worked great.