Simon

Someone added that pigtail. It's actually not a bad idea, as you risk stretching the wires every time you check/change your air filter, if you don't disconnect it. Grounding to the intake is fine.

No, it's a little grey box situated behind the coil on the intake manifold.

Sounds like a short at the sending unit. I've had it happen twice. Check the wiring on top of the sending unit, as the design is terrible, and prone to corrosion.

Sorry to hear about another Calmini fail. Not surprising with them. I've never run Calmini products, nor will I ever if I can avoid it. I've heard enough horror stories to steer clear. The funny thing is, I have run products from tons of different companies over the years, and never run into any fitment or quality issues, short of the RC UCA sleeves being slightly too long. Otherwise, everything I've installed on my rig, and others rigs have fit flawlessly, including Hoohaa's first foray into steering modification. I bought the one he had made for himself, and installed on his own rig. This was before he started making products for "the community". Bolted up to mine perfectly.

I always ran ceramic pads on my Pathy(s). I got excellent life out of them, and they stopped well. I didn't notice any extra rotor wear due to them, and had original rotors (except 1, which got gouged when a slide pin seized) on both of my WD21's.

Yep, even with years of hard wheeling, Pezzy's only had 1 tie rod end replaced. Everything's still tight. This is the reason they went rack and pinion on the 2005+ X, Pathfinder and Frontier. It's far superior to the steering on the (W)D21-22 model trucks.

Damn near 1:1. A quart is 947ml or .947L. If you interchange quarts and litres, you won't hurt anything.

I tried it. Didn't get high enough to get enough fluid in the tranny. I found the shifter hole to be the easiest.

Dudu, your KM2's might be lacking due to size. Each tire is designed with a specific size in mind. Most tread designs for MT's are designed with a 33x12.5" size in mind. From there, the design is altered to fit a 31, 32, 35 etc. So comparing tires without comparing sizes isn't really a true comparison. A 33" KM2 can behave very differently from a 31" KM2.

Yep...it is. The Roughcountry/Superlift arms are great, and Calmini, but you're going to pay big bucks for Calmini. Rancho used to make arms as well, but I don't know much about them.

The don't do anything for ball joint angle. They're the exact same shape and size as stock. Just stronger. I'd pick another type.

Yep, you have an LSD rear diff. Disc brakes weren't uncommon. Most SE and later, LE's had Discs.

RIP Jared. Your contributions will be missed here. My condolences to your family and close friends. It's unfathomable what they're going through.

Yeah, the siren is under the hood, the alarm box is under the seat, and the switch is on the center console. Your truck should be pre-wired for all of it. There's also a hood pin that you should wire up, which you should also have wiring for. I don't know if not having it will cause the alarm to go off or not.

SkinnyPedal, who's 6'3", drives a first gen miata. It's hilarious watching him get in and out of the thing.

I would be very surprised if that truck doesn't already have some form of lift spring installed. It sits far too level to have stock springs. Yep, you've essentially got a 3+3.

Pull the fuse when offroad. NOthing to worry about.

Since I stole this from 88 (with permission) for CNTC, I have the pics stored elsewhere, and kept the writeup. If a mod/admin would like to edit the first post with the code from the following, it should work just fine.

Could be either. Best bet is to clean it up well with a good degreaser, start the motor, and get underneath with a flashlight to see where it's originating from.

I know they have a 4x4 long travel setup for the WD22 Xterra, but I'm not 100% sure if they have one for the WD21.

They should reset themselves, however, it's possible the connections at the breaker are corroded. I had it happen to the drivers window in my old truck. I simply cut back the wire to a good spot, and put a fuse in place of the breaker.

I am sure they could, though, I'm not sure what you'd need other than calipers, rotors, and pads. Possible that wheel bearings and wheel hubs (not 4wd hubs) would need replacement as well.

Yes. It's VERY expensive, but offers like 13" of travel on IFS front end. There's a whole slew of parts that have to be replaced with that kit.

It shouldn't always be spinning, however, given that you've modified the front end so much, it may "think" the front is slipping, and be trying to send power to the front wheels.

VG33 to VQ35 happened in 2001. 99.5 is the front fascia, bigger brakes, and rear shock relocation, among a couple other things.