02silverpathy

Werd

I find this to be a tough call personally...I have 265/75/16 on my double tr-star SE wheels. I often think that they aer not worth the hassle and weight. REVO's would be sweeter if I had gotten the 265/70/16...that little bit of size for the weight and the rubb factor...maybe I am just getting old! Lol.

Well, now corn will be over $5 for 12 ears and cans of corn will be $2! Lol, why not ask the public if they feel like doing extra maint. on their vehicles as this product saves environment marginally but affects your vehicles ability to run correctly greatly....this almost sounds like a poor offset. Or well at least they will be forcing us to do some maint as parts break down quicker. For the Octane topic: I say lets all add Toluene to our tanks and call it a day!

That ur ur ur ur urrrur ur ur ur sounds to me like a bad or dry wheel bearing. In an old S10 blazer this noise permiates the whole truck...maybe its the frame thing. Other than that, I too am sticking with XPLORx4 that maybe the cv is just serviced out.

That stuff is horrible and destructive. Running high octane in a lower compression engine VG33e will just make it hotter in the combustion chamber. The difference in octanes is explodabillity vs. its ability to be compressed. Higher octanes can be compressed more before exploding, therfore burning more and popping less. More burn = more heat. The VQ has a compression ratio of 10.3:1 and the VG is 9.5:1 quite a large difference. I wouldn't use less than 89 in a VQ (never used less than 92 myself), and no more than 89 in a VG. This is probably why somone got better mileage out of the VG with 87. Cooler combustion chamber temps make the fuel more predictable for ignition timing. If you feel like running "good gas" through the engine, buy it from Shell or BP. These companies use good quality additives to help maintain a clean engine....BP is always crazy expensive, I stick with Shell personally.

After all that time I ran into the link the other day! Fix your auto window

Check the fuse box...the main relay/fuse may have popped on you.

Seriously, I am really over the whole argument about price and whats worth what...quite poho'ing in a truck based area. Those of you that have gone to a machine shop and had spacers made and can provide some sort of real conversation please put your hands up! ...oh yeah and I did just that. For 3/4 plate steel ones with no finish coat they were $121 plus 5% tax. My steel ones are nice, however I really like the threads that this company introduced---if the coating is as durable as it is pretty than there is several dollars of worth.

The threading is interesting...would make for a more snug fit and less chance of it seperating from the bearing/mount. Nice looking part!

/\ /\ /\ /\ nope solid work truck good avg fuel economy...wanna offroad get different gears and diffs all together, as I head that the aluminum one go bang.

stronger not heavier...titanium is not heavy in spring works but making them faster and tighter (double & triple core springs)

IDK its about how long you want to keep the entire truck. Cams AFC P & P Heads Flow match the intake and the heads Mandrel exhaust and muffler with some light back pressure Cut weight out where you can--IE. take the super heavy chrome or OE wheels off in favor of lighter ones (Maintainence is always a key also to running smooth.) Dyno tune---this would be extremely important after the work performed. I had the cams in my VG and if I did it again, I would put them in myself and use new lifters AND springs, there has got to be lighter springs and lifters out there thanks to the 300z guys.

They look perfect....why aluminum though? I have always wondered what the big deal was with using such a light metal there? I had mine made from plate steel 3/4" and paid $120. They were sorry they charged so much but it was the amount of time they spent trimming the steel up. If it is weight that we are worried about with the aluminum, consider the R50's lofty 4200+ weight! Take off those doors and tube it out!!

Guys, I have already had 2 exhaust set ups on my 3.5....click my profile and you can find my posts or just search. ...I need to add a new vid too, as the over all sound has changed too--I think fo the better. The current sound mates to the truck better, not as "new" sounding--if that makes sense.

I think that is a brilliant point....after swapping my 4.36's out for what I thought was 4.63's turns out my front gears were not 4.6 so I am patiently waiting on a new set to come from "Ben Wood" auto dismantler from ebay. Which by the way the front gears were $135 shipped!!! This is a serious thought for my rig---I will never take the Warn"s off so I could easily enjoy the locked up front in this manner.

Ok, so I suck....I have used 1.5" spacers for years on my R50. I used them on... **Old Skool Neeper Synchro's 16" **Nismo/Rays/Volk TE37x 16" **OEM 02 Nissan Double Tri-stars 16" I used them to get the large tires away from the strut tower spring perch, with no problems.

Right on Dan! When I added my strut spacers, I replaced those 10mm studs with 1/2" grade 8 bolts....I should hope these stand up to the task. My only concern is that they would break before bending and showing wear. ...on the other hand my rig will never wheel like your last one, perhaps not even as hard as your new one!

No warning light for over-heating, 'cause they gave us a gauge! I second the flush comment...I have a 93 Civic that overheated on occasion, I changed the T-stat, used AC coil fin cleaner on the radiator, burped the system correctly....nothing. I ran the strongest/most involved radator flush (says it removes old sold bloom from inside as well), and this seems to have cured my problems. The water/product that came out was near black in color and had tons of particles in it. The car has not overheated since.

"Dernt" has a set of Stillen headers on his VG R50...IIRC he didn't experience the power gain he expected but the exhaust after the headers plays quite an important role also. PM him, or maybe he'll chime in.

/\ /\ /\ Mobil 1 and the Napa Gold filters seem to be the biggest factory replacement

Sand that baby down to "cleaner" than is is now and apply some silicone sealant (coolant, gas related type) and call it a day! If you have done the timing belt and water pump, hoses, plugs and wires...I hate to tell you that she will last you another 70K, probably only with an evap code!

If you pull your intake manifold on a VQ35 you will see quickly why you should change this piece of poo. My upper intake was a b-e-a-utiful color bronze---problem is that the parts are aluminum. The PCV in the VQ sucks bad and in fact the valve cover baffles are so bad on the pass side valve cover that versions have come out from Nissan to replace it. Oil flows freely through the PCV and clogs everywhere...aiding this engine to consume oil. I found the EXACT same issue with my PCV so I took min out, popped it into 2 pieces ( I think it can be done once), cleaned it and snapped it back together (again it is all plastic and probably will not survive a second cleaning). Next I ran a new slightly larger "fuel" line to an actual filter/container (it is a fuel filter that has clear plastic and filter media) to filter vapors and catch oil. Then from this filter to underneath the TB. I catch probably 1-2 ounces of oil every 3K miles, at which point I pull the filter since it is small and any more would allow the oil to go into the TB, dump out contents and spray brake clean until it is clean again. 2 weeks ago I pulled my TB while checking my plugs and after 11K miles this has kept my intake manifold very clean and free of oil bronzing. There is still a light slippery feeling inside, however nothing like before. Wann see more? Check out Ventec's scary pics from his power valve adventure. Particularly http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v316/Ven...er/IMG00146.jpg In addition a larger pic (thanks Ventec) shows the overall power valve area...the only thing in this pic ths should be bronze is the butterfly's, and hopefully their screws (Dude I am sorry that happened to you).All the butterflies. That little hole is the entry point from the PCV valve into the throttle body....your intake air belongs here...not oil!

My 02 had a similar goop on the screws also. My truck was a company leased rig so I am quite sure she never saw any real maint., at least not past oil & filter changes and what not. You can see in the pic what looks like 2 threads of some locker. It was rubbery to the touch and came off fairly easy.

G..XPLORx4 is a comic superhero with an R50 what he wants to know is how you are planning on using them..he wants to help you benefit. He has taken his White R50 LE more places with a unibody than most ever take a chance on visiting! The answer you seek is yes the will go through the center of the wheel--I have the same rig--02 SE. I run 1.5" wheel adapters with my AC lift to get 32" tires on and this allows me to keep the OEM wheels, my tires, on the lift and put the cover back over the wheels and "hide" the hubs. With a simple flat-head, I pop the cover off and twist the dial--away I go! Some people bore out the center of the wheel cover (the circle outside the nissan emblem) and re-install that cover too.

/\ /\ /\ x2 My 02 goes into closed loop in like 30 seconds after being started...less if it has been ran already and may still be warm. (Scangauge II)