02silverpathy

Your second vid is very cool...lots of folks will now know what their truck sounds like with those pieces removed...great vid! The first vid is good too, sounsd pretty leak free! Did you cover the tail pipe while it was running to locate any small openings? Isn't it crazy that those 2 pee-shooters at the front handle that much noise, and pass it on rather quietly?

I would be curious to see if you disconnected the Idle Air Control Valve (electrically), if that made a difference. This valve lets extra air in while the engine warms up, and closes as the engine gets to operating temp...they get clogged up and stop working correctly---at least on older Hondas! Un plugging this will set a check engine light, not sure if it will go away after plugged back in or if you will need to reset it. If this item IS the problem, it needs a good cleaning (carbon build-up), and brake clean will work just fine.

Guys, there is an old TSB out there for this. This is a natural characteristic of the 1st R50's, that was corrected in later years. Warm and cold will change the problem, but not fix it. If you are a little heavier on the go pedal, it won't do it either correct? This is due to its valve body, but changes based on fluids, heat of fluid, and driving style--they all do it from 96-through somewhere in 99. If you really want to change this characteristic, get a shift kit and this will modify everything---*IF* I remember correctly the Trans-Go kit even states it will smooth out 1st -2nd while firming up every other shift!

Probably is the control box, I have had 2 Hondas that have similar problems! The wiper itself...I struggled through 3 blades..the third is PERFECT ! It is just an Anco cheap replacement blade/frame at Advance Auto...I know that the Bosch Hindsight was a failure and the "OEM Exact Replacement" didn't get it either. I just backed my truck in to the paring spot and swapped them one at a time with a manager there, who really just wanted me to go away lol! He was, at the end, very surprised at the struggle and said that he would try to remember this in the future for other customers complaining about the Bosch...meh probably only a problem on the Pathy?!

Yes, what Doms said! Daddy rim is right too...but there are 2 thermostats if I am not mistaken...one out front and one in the back.

Great combo--4x4~~Manual~~LSD---Blacked out is sweet too! Congrats!

I have the Siver Star ULTRA's in the wifes Altima and my 02 Path and they have both made it to 1 year old juuust fine. The old "Silver Star" boxed ones were bad the longest they ever lasted in the 98 was 8 months---for $40 that sucks....go with the Ultra's for bright yellow filtered light. I had Nighthawks in my 98 when I was finished swapping Silver stars out and they did pretty well, I really wanted that yellow filtered out though. ...Trainman I think you should try your hand at retro fitting some HID's in there! Lol...I still want to get the Infinity FX projectors for my path and try it!

Dean, I still have not confirmed (through laziness and lack of funds for that category) that the VQ has no adaptable kit...do you already know this to be true?

Good catch Pete...they 100% have a chip with some sort of value in them...remote starts for our trucks need a key box and a spare OEM key to work. ....that "kid" may not have l-o-s-t the key and is waiting for you to sleep so they can leave you know?!

I use a phillips bit (long) in my drill and spin the nicely toothed adjuster wheel that way...otherwise you would have to remove the whole assembly to be able to put the phillips bit or socket over the head of the screw.

I had heard that due to rising oil costs that spark plugs were next to go up in price....lol just kidding! Go get some sweet Iridiums (they fire more easily than platinum or copper...$6 each), a new cap& rotor, try to find nice plug wires (not sure I'd go with just any brand since they may be faulty new in the box), and a KNOCK SENSOR ! These years (96-99, or VG33e models) are notorious for havin a knock sensor code. The knock sensor is not going to cause a knock, but it is probably worn out. I had a 98 and from what I know the distributor does wear out also...and they come with a new cap and rotor--but look at it for cracks if you go that route. The random multiple missfire code (P300) is a mean one, having several possible problems...hang tight and do little by little. Change as much spark as you can first--then check fuel (injectors, fuel filter, fuel pump, pressure regulator). Keep us informed!

Great write up! What oil weight is everyone using? I have thought about switching to the M1 0 weight (in the green/silver bottle), but don't want to get too light any thoughts here?? ***On my trip south (about 600 miles each way) I observed that at about 18-1900 miles on this oil change it used 1/4 quart. I filled it back up and now at just over 3000 have not noticed any measureable consumption, however it has used some---my best guess is that this is approximately 1/2 quart every 3K.***

Take the glove box down for easier access--but that part is preference. A few screws and the box will spread open--just far enough to vaccuum out the debris, and maybe wipe inside just a little. If yours has a filter you can change it, but most don't have the cabin filter. I added dryer sheets to my wifes Altima and they smelled wonder full for quite some time. I added these when I took her blower motor down--I just stuffed them in the black condenser box through the fan's access hole.

Pete! The new parts look 100% correct. I have my stockers in the garage and they are identical. When I replaced mine I actually studied them for differences--they were the same--but the rubber was slightly firmer (by the hand strength torq wrench) on the new ones over the old (55K).

Man the OEM battery has a low CCA of around 425...I thought that my Dekka SeaMate was low at 440, but apprently I am in average terrirtory! The Dekka is a great replacement, affordable, deep-cycle, long lasting (4years-1 sitting idle)!

Geoff is talking about the strut bearings...you have already determined Pete, that OEM is the ONLY way to go!! KYB replacements are just poo. I recently replaced (thanks SammyB), my front insulators and bearings and struts...the world is a much smoother place now!! The only catch to my replacement is that I have a noise that sounds like a "light" topping out by my struts...not quite as lud as bad sway-bar end links going bad...any suggestions here?? ***Geoff, good call on the strut bearings, but several of us R50 owners already learned about these the hard way!!***

I do have the 3.5, and I made a heat shield to block some radient heat from the drivers side exhaust manny and I am down to 5 degree difference between IAT and outside temp...no too bad?! Of course when I sit in traffice the heat soak begins.

Agreed! I am really envious over your red...and they only made this body R50 red in that one year!

Yep with intake...here is the Autozone special!!

The video is finally on youtube! 2002 Pathfinder Aeroturbine It gained me 1.7 MPG's on my trip leaving me at 19.7 average @ 65-70MPH on my trip to SC over my trip to NJ; I also had much more cargo and people than the NJ trip. Not bad, buuuut not the 21.5 I got last year with OEM everything. I did discover that the VQ35 does NOT do better with Lucas Fuel treatment...it actually caused a loss from what my Scanguage reported---lower timing degrees and on average several MPG worse in general! From my experience with this truck, I am led to believe that with my 4.636 gears 2250-2500 RPM's is the most efficient range, without Lucas Fuel treatment is best. I have also read several places that no oil treatment is the best when using high quality oils like Mobil 1, Castrol Syntec, Royal Purple and of course Amsoil. ...back to the muffler--VERY happy! Great sound at idle and lower RPM and quiet on the interstate--if the MPG gain is no farce then the muffler will pay for itself in about 10 tanks of highway travel----pretty sweet! I would like to find a resonated tip to remove some f the raspiness and accent the tone...any help out there??

After reading stuff from (bobtheoilguy)'s site and Amsoils very own site Formula Shell oil is very good for its price! I am currently running it in my 93 Civic w/??? miles on it. In my 02 Path and 01 Alty...Mobil 1 full synth with a Napa Gold Filter. I run the lightest weight I can find in the handle bottle (1 gal or 4 qts) of M1.

Oh you devil! More info! How many bulbs, where'd they come from, and PIA level please!! Also, do they respond to your dimmer?

I needed wheel spacers...I am hoping to buy the Dick Cepek DC-1's and elminiate this wheel space problem with a better back space amount. This is the largest problem with large tires on the R50's. Year: 2002 SE Lift : 2" AC lift, 3/4" strut spacers Wheels : OE SE Double Tri-star16" Tires : 265/75/16 Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revos Notes: Rubs front bumper and inner fender frame area in tight backing turns WITH 1.5" adapters photo: Cruddy but in tact!

Any more info on how the rust got started..ie. around the nylon inserts for the flares or where they hug the body line... When I wash my R50 always run my fingers around the lip of the quarter behind the flare to keep the debris from sitting there. When I added OE flares to my 98 I did not use the nylon anchors and the self tappers started to eat my quarters away---yes very upsetting indeed--I feel your pain!

I am sorry, I have not forgotten--I hope that tomorrow when I am off I am able to get this accomplished...the Y pipe that I have is 2" in and 2.5 out...the pipes on the path are even smaller than that though so be prepared to adapt! Congrats on the muffler--I am in love with mine! I had a Flomaster 50 SUV on my 98 and it sounded good, but I found there to be no improvement inperformance...you will see an increase with this one!