02silverpathy

Temp was between 22-25 on the last trip back over the mountains Fuel was from different stations The mountains (2) with a valley in between are just under 1900 ft each at their peak, so probably 100-150 less than that for the road. Additionally I have noticed this mainly on the mountains under load, however I hauled 4 people a distance of 160+ miles when I initially noticed and thought I was just kidding myself that there was a problem I had hoped it was the plug gap as that is an easy fix...I also still have my OEM laser plats. with 47K on them numbered per cylinder in boxes that I though about putting back in as a control for the problem--worst case of course. What do you think about the fuel maps for the "intake warmed" air that would occur after the MAF sensor gets its information? Having this air warmed would make the engine run rich and adjust from that point...VS. getting colder air than expected and having to fatten up? Do you think this is possible or does the ECU have limitless maps and can adjust 100% of the time?? The RPM is definately a factor--at low RPM there is nothing to feel and higher RPM these misses seem to disappear.

Hi all! My 02 VQ is giving me small misses when driving under moderate load. There is a small mountain range nearby and I have now on 2 round trips over and back feeling a mild multiple missfire. ->The plugs are just at 10K old and are NGK Iridium IX. The vehicle gives no Service Engine light, however does not correct the problem on its own. --->The conditions are engine fully warmed up around 2500-2700 rpms, approx 28-32 deg outside. I use 93 octane 100% of the time and this is the second tank exhibiting the same behavior. ------>The only modifications are a short ram intake, coolant bypass on the TB, and PCV catch filter (currently empty). ~~~~I did NOT double check the gap on the plugs last year...I know don't flame me...I am wondering if this may be the cause, however why did it take until now to rear its ugly head?~~~~ The only other thought that I have is that the coolant bypass is allowing more cold air into the intake (which is unheated due to the bypass itself), and the ECU fuel maps are preset for this air to be heated by the intake manifold/throttle body...any Guru's out there for this one??

If I am not mistaken 96+ pathys have a single wire connector that pushes into the back of the OE radio that is a GND wire...the plug & play radio harness does not use this plug therefore no ground through the harness; just the one you may have formed by plugging in the antenna, like Simon said.

Exactly Simon...in a nissan you must run a seperate ground. If you used a direct connect harness the grond from the radio goes nowhere...run a ground fromt he radio to the steel housing that the radio & heating unit is held in.

Thankfully it could catch something to be able to nudge it...lol Denny Crane. :tonguefinger: :tonguefinger:

I have real world deductions...and for the record I am a retarded monkey! Using several different filters to date...I have found that the Purolater Pure1 keeps oil pretty clean for approx 3K city...buuut the Napa Gold that you can't pry out of my hands has kept my oil clean for 4500 plus miles city...dig it! Let alone after reading miles of text worth of opinion I see no reason not to claim them the winner, IMHO of course!

That is a perfect projector--exactly what I would try to retro!

I spent FOREVER researching larger oil filters...I found a Mobil1 filter that was "larger" than others and it turned out that the Napa Gold (BY Wix) was the same size (largest), uses synthetic media, a real spring coil "suspension" system, silicone anti drainback valve, and lastly was like 1/2 price of the Mobil1 !! I am happy...now to find a cooler set up that will sandwich in there! ***edit: there was a K&N the would fit with the exception of the gasket shape. This was the largest filter concieveable, however the OE gasket flat/square--Larger K&N round style. Plus K&N don't actually filter as well just higher flow. It may have been the one that the older LT1 vette uses--not totally sure now.

No Sweat! They unbolt from the "inside" of the hatch and the entire light holder will come off the outside---(96-99) I think that on the newer R50 (99.5-04) you can pop the lense out from the outside and access the bulb..hmm not totally sure though, it may be the same process--I can't remember now sorry.

If you were working on a 2" sub-frame drop, could you not simply use a 2" block to bolt between parts of the rack (steering gear)? On the Japanese off-road site that was sperad around here a year ago or so they have a 6" subframe drop that only uses an aluminum block in the steering gear to extend it...of course their kit is $3400 before shipping!! WoW!

Dude,you've ran the gammet! The only other thing that I can think of that affects MPG in this way is warm air intake...cold air makes more power and less gas mileage. If you have an intake I would try to route it towards warmer air if you can.

Its tough for me to tell with the VG33, since I didn't have this gauge when I had my 98...the idea is that the higher gear requires more fuel to accelerate and then may down shift and use even more effort to maintain speed, where the OD OFF would have just had your foot lighter on the accelerator to coast a bit before feathering back in to keep speed--with the lower gear in OD OFF it puts more grunt right to the ground than a higher gear does. If you watch your rig (when fully warmed up, tranny and all) for what speed she kicks into overdrive lock-up, mine (3.5 w/4.6s) kicks in just under 40 MPH if I am light on the pedal--this is near the top of the fuel savings for CITY with OD OFF. Sometimes as the engine is winding along at 45 (OD OFF), I just can't believe that the MPG number is better at this 2500 RPM than it would be at 15-1700, but it is right everytime! As XPLORx4 told me this is the eingine & gearings most efficient range for my vehicle--no kidding! The hardest part is not goosing the pedal with OD OFF, since it is right in a sweet power band! Bah, I will get over eventually right?

With the exception (removed) of loose 4x4 hub bearings, can't you test upper BJ's by pulling full body weight on the top of the tire outwardly and looking for movement? That would elminiate the chance of boots being ripped apart by a friggin pry-bar.

Sorry So Slow to respond...if you are able to feather the gas pedal, the answer is yes--better city MPG!

If you forgot to plug the flasher button in they won/t work either...Nissan uses a Positive ground system (or however that's said) (Nice Z Edicer!)

How did you find that? Were your keys too heavy?

I think that gears and LSD's from the factory in general was all optioned out for the 96-99...I had an automagic 98 XE (with power options) had 0 real extras but did earn a 4.36 WITH the factory LSD, supposedly SE's came with 4.36 and LSD together. Shop car-part.com and look at bone yards near you to find that there are tons of different pathy's with and without higher gears and no real reason or ryhme. My 2002 SE auto (with power options again) had 4.36 OPEN diff. As I was at 4 auctions looking for a sweet Pathy for cheap I noticed that most all the newer R50's had no LSD with exception of the ALL-MODEs which seemed to have a better chance of LSD---but not even all of them were equipped.

Thanks for clearing this up! There is a TSB out there for the USA that mentions such a clunk, but I have no idea what the "fix all" was for this!

I always thought the main reason for not offering the VQ world wide was lack of quality fuels, be it scarce or expensive. I actually believe that I read this from some sort of Nissan exec. before. The 4.6's are great for putting the pep back into the truck..MPG's...well I drove slooooow for a week around town and captured 15MPG (AC + 1" Spacer + 32" HEAVY REVO's + Open Hubs) On Highway with the Scangauge I found with my gears that the engines most efficient territory is 2250-2500 RPMs, limiting me to about 65...would be more like 70 with the 4.3s....that being said those of us with the automagic need to keep the OD OFF until you break 40-45 mph...this will keep the engine in its most efficient rev-band. Yeah the OD could be waaaay deeper than, what is it, 5-600 RPMs ?

I have had both vehicles and would quickly agree about the VG...I really miss the spunk of the engine and the sound in particular is extra sweet....I now own the VQ and love it, however it seems more sterile as far as power and character--but it is a beast comparitively! Go VQ and those of us lucky enough to have found a 5 spd (a-hem, I wish), are the real winners!

:worthless: Show me the Motor Boat! That is one sweet truck man...and yeah I still want the grill too!! The only thing better than a 5 spd VQ would be a 6 speed VQ...I just don't have the cash to go trying to mate tranny pieces together. ---Time to update that profile now paadna!!

Google RE401a. this is the transmission model number and there is a TransGo shift kit out there that changes out the valve body check balls and so on to firm up shifts and make them "driver controlled". I have wanted to buy this shift kit, however have not had the time or money to play with this....in addtion to the Garage being extremely cold right now.

Dan, This should get pinned so that everyone members and none members can see this easily. You are correct that these parts are not made factory tough...toughness is required here. ~~~~Cool Pin! Thanks~~~~

Yes---I'd like 1 rear glass actuator with button & the oversized ventshades please--oh and what will the shipping be on that??

Dude--Thank you! In my business (furniture) everythings point of reference is from in front of it so,...sorry for the confusion---you probably pulled the right dipstick then!!