02silverpathy

The only real issue with removing heat shields is seeing how tiny the OEM pipes are! Lol, seems embarrassing that such a tough vehicle has pee-shooters for exhaust piping! Oh, tore mine off!

Here is a pic of a "GTO" after market deflector...kinda cool!

I can't work over time...I'm S(crewed)alaried! Between my gear swap and getting my paint fixed from backing into my table saw...I may be hosed this year for mods....we shall see! I wanted skids and light weight rims for my Summer...oh well, I can live vicariously through you!! Thanks man!!

The OEM fog lights are def. on a relay....but I would only use the OEM fog wiring to turn on your IPF wiring kit relay...I think that is what XPLORx4 was trying to say. The OEM wiring may put up with the IPF's running off of it, but it would not give them good enough juice to be as bright as they could be! So use the OEM power wire on the passenger side to turn on your relay for the IPF's and then run your new harness right from the battery power and ground to get ultra bright clean power! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~Congrats on the bumper you lucky son-of-a-monkey!~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I had a leak on my 02...oddly enough on the passenger side where the soft line meets the hard line right before the line goes out in front of the truck for cooling...the OEM clamps are spring clamps and mine was losing its grip. I changed it out for a stainless belt style clap (super cheap at Lowes), and no more problems!

No man, sorry...its 2 presses on the unlock button for the key pad to unlock all doors...yours will pop first then the rest including the hatch! My bad

Just thinking out loud here...day dreaming if you will...this has proven costly for me in the past, but anyhow: Anyone know if a 6 spd 350z tranny will fit a pathfinder? I know nothing of transplants like this...ask me about a Honda and I may be able to help!! I am sure that all the wiring and AT computer and all that will be fun electronically bypassing and may not be possible at all since the AT VQ has power valves....but I can't help dreaming of a six speed R50 ! ps. let me know if you just think I have Pathfinder Upgrade Disease (PUD) .......Sammy if you are out there, I am going to get my rear gears on Monday! Still looking for the **free** housing we talked about? (free, like help me swap my gears and the housing is yours, grub and beer included!)

Oddly enough, on the website the replacement "front pipe" for the VQ R50 has no resonator...seems interesting???

PCV maint.... I actually popped off the PCV valve---however it un screws from the valve cover! So, that being said I unscrewed the rest of it and then proceeded to clean the hard (read rock hard) carbon that was built up on the valve...causing its failure. After the EXPENSIVE plastic pcv was clean I snapped the 2 pieces back together and screwed it back into the valve cover...from the looks of the parts assembly it cannot survive being popped apart more than once or twice!! I had purchased, from AutoZone, a replacement that would not fit into the V-cover without some type of grommet as it was a pressure fit style, not screw type. I had also picked up , from the wall--o--fuel filters, a small fuel filter that is cloudy clear plastic with a small round filter media in it looking like a mini oil filter in a plastci jar! This filter has inlet and outlet on top and is about 3 inches deep, and 3 inches diameter...I added this in-line to make a $4, filtered, catch can! Super sweet! The hose for the PCV runs around the back of the intake and gets its vac. from under the throttle body, using a zinc color metal tubing. I removed this and ran fuel hose in the same route, adding some extra so that I can access the filter/catch can when I want to change it...the hose is strong enough to suspend the filter without having to attach it. In the 6K it has been on the truck it has caught about 2-3 ounces of oil, with most of them being in the first 1000 miles after installation...this may be the broken down sludge that was in the baffle?? ***************To do any of this I did have to remove the upper and lower intake manifolds, but not the bottom most part that the fuel rail is attached to. The Nissan OEM gaskets are of super high quality, they are covered in a heavy plastic/rubber compound making a perfect seal over and over, that is if you don't bend the gaskets up!********

Thanks! I will def Google that way, I think I can even to get the work server to allow it !! It likes NPORA, it doesn't filter it out! Actually, I was schooled on the opposite coast! 1 HR from the Nations wonderful capitol! It sounds like my VQ may have some ring damage...after 28** miles...4500KM my oil is passed golden brown and is starting to appear dirty...this after I did add about 1/2 liter.

..............whew, sure does...but the truck really seems to like it! I use mobil one also with a Napa Gold filter (made by WIX), I drive very short stop and go trips so that may help dirty my oil faster....dude your info is great but I haven't a clue about those kms and imperials and all that...can you help me out?

May actually not be the tranny, it could easily be the Mass Air Flow Sensor...if this doesn't read right the whole truck is way slower than normal....buy MAF claener and spray away, following directions of course! edit: scratch that, that would not blink the OD light.

This would be a problem, I am thinking that this will need replaced. I covered mine in with indoor pipe insulator (the kind that is shaped just like pipe and has a long slice down it to slip right over it), to help keep cool freon cool in hot months...works great!! Even looks stock!

Your doors are working correctly, and if you have keyless...it will be 1 touch to unlock the drivers door and 2 to unlock the rest!

The sensor that sits on the front of the radiator support is one of several "ambient temp sensors" and can be bought from a parts website from a similar year maxima for about $25 US...this is the LOWEST price I have found anywhere ( other than a bone yard!)! You will most def. want to get the OE part...I tried several other sensors that all made the gauge read very low (-14F)and wrong!

Yup, nothing big to worry about....if it is slack in the regulator it cannot be adjusted AFAIK, so use it until it stope putting the wondow up and down!! Nissan regulators aren't as high of quality as the rest of the vehicle!!

Thanks for the comments, I do check my oil every time I get gas at the Shell station. (Always the same 2 pumps) My catch can doesn't have but 1-2 ounces of oil in it....I have been checking the oil hot, not cold--maybe? Yeah Gost the Lucas seems to increase MPG's but I do not think it is strong enough as a solvent to really clean anything...I leave that to my Shell 93 V-power!

I have taken 100% effort to maintain my VQ and after 2800 miles I am down about 3/4 quart. I have replaced all fluids and filters (ok, well I didn't drop the tranny pan to change that filter), keep up on the K&N intake filter, loc-tite applied to power valve screws, PCV maint including adding an inline filter/catch can....I even add Lucas FI Cleaner every tank!! I know that Lucas stuff doesn't really clean injectors, or not as much as it lubricates the gas but with my lift (AC), REVO's (265/75) on OE rims, hitch, 3 16lb subs and box I get 13-14 in town all short short trips 5mi or less! I change my oil/filter when it is dirty...sometimes this is right around 3K sometimes around 4K. This last change I spent extra time making the oil level exactly on the full mark and now I am down about 3/4 quart! I am no speed racer and notice 0 other problems, my truck has just over 52K on it.... ...I have come to the conclusion that this engine just plain uses oil more than average. As my wifes 2.4 Alty uses "0" oil and it is at 92K. PLEAST POST UP IF YOU HAVE SIMILAR RESULTS!! VQ and VG owners welcome, obviously I am specific to VQ.

Hooray for R50's....wait he said wifey....sooo will you wheel it, lift it...etc?

After reading this again, the wife's old Saturn came to mind. We replaced the EGR, ran high test (less than a 1/4 tank), and added about 2 quarts of isopropyl alcohol to the gas, it ran hot at idle, but otherwise great and passed with flying colors. The Saturns' problem was the oil ring was bad in piston #3...coated the spark plug all the time and ran rich! The EGR made the cars acceleration m-u-c-h smoother and probably helped with the exam also!

Past all the other emissions test prepare steps...use toluene! 1 gallon in 1/2 tank of 93 makes just about 95 oct....super clean burn. Isopropyl alchol never hurt either, but then go fill up after the alch. or you can start to fry sensors!

Dude, Acetone is safe on the glass alone...it will take everything off the glass and not hurt it. Paint? Well the acetone will tear up paint, but not as fast as you might think. For the paint... C-l-a-y B-a-r, removes contaminates and leaves paint smooooooth...fresh coat of wax and now you should be holding hard water away pretty good!

LSD was avail, they were apparently all 4.363 rears, lsd was mostly on the All-Mode (knob style) 4wd.

Thermal Barrier Coating...it looks like this is a cermaic coating, but I can't find how much it helps heat transfer, only how much to have it done....sheesh $230 US to have 6 pistings done and $14 each valve. I would say from the pricing that this must do some serious heat shed!!

Correct Doms, the rear shock will have to mount upside down if you are going to re-use.