02silverpathy

Good infor Redfinder...thanks! It has not done it yet today either!

Trailchaser...is it because the rim is pissing out of its fill hole! Lol, couldn't resist. Its like a human throwing up! Do you think that much fluid slows the machine at all?

Ok guys, this is the first surprise my 02 R50 has thrown at me...this truck has been a Gem in fact my favorite vehicle for the length of my short life! Yes, it has eclipsed the CRX...that being said that is still tough for me to believe I said it!! THE PROBLEM: Drove my truck for about 12 miles today, 4 stops/starts. After having the truck sit for about 3 hrs while I wash the wifes Alty, then my Pathfinder, and then wax the Alty...I tried to start the Pathy..............it responded by sounding like an 11:1 big block Chevy with very long pauses between turn overs (3) before making the normal cranking speed and sound and starting up. I immediately shut the truck back off and could not get it to do it again. Battery checkes out, terminals are tight with no corrosion, and no lights were left on....this scares me a little as I would guess that the ECU fumbled here. Please shoot me some ideas on this one!!

After taking the door panel bolts/screws out of the arm rest and from under the power window switch panel (3), and the door handle cup (1 screw), pop the panel off from the bottom first, there is a section right under the speaker pod to get a finger or two into. Quick sharp tugs at the panel. If you pull slowly, you will most likley damage the carboard panel...short quick tugs and the plastic pop pins will come right out! Work your way up the door and beware that the trim around the door handle pull will either lip up to be removed or go shooting off in a direction...this isn't unusual!! Once all the pop pins are free, you will push the entire, now loose, panel up so that it unhooks from where it wraps around the window opening...viola! Panel is completely free...you decide if you want to unscerw the power window switches or pop the connectors out!! If you look at the back of the panel, it will all make sense. The pop pins may need some adjusting before they line up to go back in....to push them back in....you guesses it quick short close handed blows right on the spot where the pop pin is will lock them back in...just make sure that you lined them up well or they will bend and that is just no fun!!

Hmm, water pump snout was some sort of issue too...sorry I can't remember more details.

Ah yes, an expensive example of Inertia & the compressionabillity of water! That is quite the sweet carnage, and shows how strong the rods beams really are!

Totally agree about the OD off, or did you mean on? When you turn the rig on OD is on, if I leave it off cruising local I get the best mileage...it really is for doing driving over 40MPH for longer than 2 mins.

Hey hey, stiffle it! Now...back to those side markers..err uhh Snorkel...I me likey the sidemarkers too!! That whole truck looks super sweet...NICE TJM aluminum bumper, tires, roof rails...dag on ! I really would like to retire at a ripe old age of about 55-60 and move to Aussie...these goodies sure make me think of moving now, oh that and the impending presidential election! Lol, back to the snorkel...how much do these set-ups cost?

ME too!! I clayed my wifes Alty (01, 90K) Amazing, that Sandrift beige looks deep now. I did it too my 02 Path, no real difference other than the small specs where salt turns the finish rusty....how on earth do you make those stay away?? Good machine buff?

remove the egr, clear out lines to BPV (back presure valve) and the EGR tube that goes into the exhaust. The EGR is a rubber bladder inside, so clean it briskly with brake cleaner...as it dires the fastest and won't eat at the rubber as much as other cleaners...I am not sure if you can get pipe cleaners in there, but that may lead to puncturing the bladder if not careful...voila you should be good to go for 10-20K...depending on the condition of the EGR this may not last too long, but usually the tubes and vacuum lines are the worst culprit! Hope that helps!!

Hammer the h*** out of them, they pop out just like wheel bolts/lugs. They are pressed in and you may bend the plate a little, unless you get several sharp cracks at them...don't miss! Lol.

Hey! Got beat out of my email for a moment....here is a link to what mine look like! And another link. I am in MD, make me an offer on the rails, I'll figure out shipping--I know that I can do it I am just unsure of your location.

I have taken mine off, and had planned on selling them on eBay. If you are interested, let me know...mine are from a 2002...no rust, no dents...they are tube style with the flat spots for stepping!

Sweet Rig, with a sweet lift! Hey...Is that a Kobalt SUV jack in the back ground?

Dude!! V-POWER is the best gas in my area by far !!! My pop used to work in a machine shop (for 27 yrs)...for big rigs, like dump trucks, power company trucks, industrial sized engines etc...he said that he always knew who used Exxon..as it would leave heavy red deposits on the intake sides of the combustion chamber and almost always fouled the injectors. Every area has the potencial to be different, but I believe my dad for obvious reasons and he swears by BP and SHELL...after spending different weeks at different stations I agree!

I used HIGH HEAT paint from Rustoleum...mainly for barbecues, rated for 1200 degrees...3rd vehicle I have used it on...just knock loose particles of rust of and spray away...more coats does last longer...OEM system in black looks great...incidentally flat black dissapates heat the best anyway!!

Is the VSS part of the transmission or attached? Mechanical or electrical? If this unit is not functioning, I am sure it would cause a whole host of problems...I would probably just replace it.

Well, if you have done all of that stuff and still have probelms, I would suspect electrical....what is the condition of the plugs on all of the evap stuff?

Yes, change the wires first and foremost...those new plugs don't stand a chance of working their best with the old wires. Does the truck miss a beat under acceleration or just during low RPM crusing? But don't answer that until after changin the wires! If the wires work, great, if not it may have a clogged injector...my 98 had this problem.

Having the 3.5, you can even take 2 things off that! You have a coil on plug, so just buy good plugs! So, hell yeah $880 is crazy! I might be tempted to add (if you are spending the $$) new O2 sensors for the exhaust manifolds (there are 2 sensors there) and a coolant temp sensor.

a.k.a -- clockspring

ok, so I suck....I mounted a 1 Farad Monitor Top Capacitor in there! If you take the plastic cubby out, and spray plasticoat or some other bed liner in there than you can greatly increase the size/usefulness since it will then be open down to the back of the wheel arch!

JL made a small encloser that uses the left wheel hump in the back to the tailgate to produce some low end....I never heard it thoug. I personally have 3 12's with a Memphis 1000d pushing them...very happy with the heart pounding bass!! Fairly small sealed also...38 wide, 14 tall and I think 14-15 deep also

Doesn't the use of the brake pedal, or parking brake aide in getting traction through the OEM LSD ?? ---don't know!

disclaimer***I do not work at a dealership to properly answer this question*** There is no reason that a QX4 would not work, I am sure that the airbag setup is the same...there just may be more functions on the QX than on the pathfinder (stereo or whatever) that would be about it! As far as a 97 goes....I would think that you could go forward also, what you guys need to do is find the numbers for the "clock spring" inside the steering colums for the vehicles that you want to swap into and see if they match...if nothing else get a real picture of them and see if they are physically the same...the rest is easy! I have an Audi A4/A6 Volkswagon Jetta/Beetle/Passat/GTI/Golf clockspring in my hand that fits all of these vehicles.