02silverpathy

"ditto" pull off the intake rubber and use throttle body cleaner to clean out the butterfly!

I did nothing with the TB, I figure if I am going to put these lines back on I will blow them out first to remove any debris. I didn't have any problems this past Winter at all...I did mid-Winter put the TB lines back on...that lasted 1 day! I really don't understand the idea...the MAF reads the temp and volume...then it gets heated up...making the truck run rich since it had calculated gas injection for the cooler air that is now hot? Warm air makes better MPG's...I removed my home made heat shield in order to let the truck breathe some warmer air...I am getting tempted to hook the coolant lines back up to see if there is a change in MPG's.

The section was only like 3" long (?), it was the hoses that had to do the work...err did you mean hoses and all? That part on the 3.5 was the OE hoses and that vac "T" inserted, with the teeny-tiny ends cut off to keep fluid flowing.

WoW! Sorry to hear/see this, but glad you're well! Shopping should be fun....of course MZ is right you could go get a WD if you really just wanted to go slower, have more rust, etc....but heck all that is worth it to have a "real" truck Hoper the new vehicle can help you shrug off some of the stiffness!

Ditto also here on my 02. My cruise does hold gears in CC too long when climbinghills (mountains) also. If it has to dip down and run at 3K rpm it will hold that until the load is completely gone, not just until momentum is good and it can relax back to 4th. I have found when the CC seems to get "stuck" running the truck/trans at high RPM to click the OD button a couple of times and it usually picks up the problem and goes back up a gear and drops the RPM's.....but it rarely selects to relax on its own. Funny enough I have also noticed that our trucks, when climbing these grades, get way better MPG's at the crazy 3,??? RPMs then it working hard to climb at say 2200 RPMs (9+ MPG's vs 7 MPG's)...this VIA my SCANGAUGE...it is confusing to me however I will have to watch it again and see exactly where MPG's start to go up when in the higher RPM powerband.

No sweat, there is one going in and one going out...connect them together...bypassing the TB...this will not mess up the flow. -------------------->I did not mean to JACK this thread!<------------------------- Avusblur, please post us and let us know about the seafoam in your 3.5! I too am curious!

Coolant line #1 at TB Coolant line #2 behind TB--attach #1 & #2 Also part of water piping and 2nd t-stat circled in blue!

The hose sits more towards the firewall and a little under it. The hose will go under your intake piping and is stretched a bit to reach the other end that comes from around where your rear T-stat is...at least on the 3.5. Right on man...I used a plastic vacuum tee instead of the copper/brass du-hickey!! Those wheels are a lot like the NISMO's...I had a set that I had powder coated and were too dark...then I sold them for $$$ and now want another set of light wheels...if anyone cares I estimate that the OEM wheels are about 26-27 lbs. **************This bypass has nothing to do with vacuum lines...I used a vacuum tee (straight plastic tube with ribbs on both sides to shove into the coolant hose). The brass/copper colored metal tubing may be better...I could only find this plastic vacuum adapter at the time!*********************************

Real easy, even cheaper! Right below the throttle body there is an inlet out let hose. when you are facing the mouth of the TB the one hose comes from more or less the fire wall and enters the TB and then leaves the TB coming right out toward you...a simple 3/8" vacuum tee and some clamps (extra slack in the heater hose if you wish), a small amount of coolant loss and voila! Tee between hoses and clamped, now drive around and feel the intake manifold....much cooler!! You WILL notice that the engines power does not seem to fade as the engine warms up.....I have not wanted to put mine lines back on long enough to see if that geratly affected my MPG's....here's the deal Warm air entering the engine is more efficient due to already being close to the cylinders ambient temp (takes less fuel to go bang!) Cooler air entering the engine is more powerful due to your engine adjusting to the knock, 02's etc(takes more fuel makes a bigger boom!) *****In theory this should reduce MPG's, however there is the idea that there is no power loss to propel the truck, soo in turn YOU should use less gas?!??*** Personally, I like the power on demand ! This is an old-school Honda trick...but I don't know if that is where it originated.

No doubt! The hubs are super easy and less than new 02 sensors...once you see on XPLORx4's site how to swap them...it will take no time at all !!

Agghhh Cornholio! Don't peace out the Pathy!! Yes 16 MPG in town is good...I am just now getting back to 15.2 MPG in town. I have 32"s, AC lift +1" spacer, Heavy triple 12" sub box to slow me down. To lighten the load on the engine back up I have: Warn Hubs (open saves MPG or 2), Autozone "Sceptre" intake (smooth, no ribs, or resonator boxes + open element filter), I have bypassed the coolant line on the intake (keeps power available by not heating up the whole intake manifold), Finally, now 4.63 gears (vs. 4.36 which help me get around town much easier), I have always wanted to do this swap...Thanks SammyB !! I am hunting down lighter wheels as we speak, and plan to free up the exhaust juuuust a little bit....replace muffler with a Flowmaster 50 series and from muffler back 2.5 inch pipe, possibly 2" pipe before muffler--funds will dictate. Those things will indeed lighten the load on the engine and free up power that the engine already produces to help with MPG's...I also insist that using 1 QT of Marvel Mystery Oil during oil change with my other 3.25 full synth. I think that using Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricat/Fuel Injector cleaner every tank of gas helps also...but those last few things are just my opinion. Luckily you do have a 5 SPD so you too dictate its MPG's...I got the auto-tragic so.....Sea-foam...never tried it but seems to work for lots of folks...I would do it before you put those sweet new sensors in!!

How about some PLASTIC wheels?? These are some re-inforced glass technoplogy type wheels... CAUTION: DO NOT CURB!

Thanks for the input so far guys!! I originally liked the DC-1's but the wifey said that they looked a little "yo"....so I startd hunting around...still liked the Nismo's just not as dark as the ones I had...then the Konigs showed up....they now come in a silver also... The DC-1's would be about 7 lbs lighter...the Konigs are about 12 lbs, the Nismos are 15lbs...the Mickey's---I haven't found a weight for them as of yet. If my math/scangauge is right I am averaging 15.2 MPG's this tank...thanks to SAMMYB and the rear 4.636 swap and my s-l-o-w driving in town, among other things!!!

Konigs on a taco... on a 4Runner

Maybe pics would help??

Does anyone know the weight of these wheels? I am looking to buy wheels (16") and I want lighter than OE. I have several sets in mind...and of course comments are always welcome! Konig Countersteer -- Bronze (17lbs) Nismo -- Silver (14lbs) Dick Cepek DC-1 -- Black/Polished (23lbs) Mickey Thompson -- Classic II (??) Any more ideas??

This sounds like your air condenser box...probably a pebble or small seed in there from squirrels running around over head...I found a "whirley bird" and a spiders nest in mine...go figure all that wind and still they found time to sneak in and build!! Addind a dryer sheet to this box is also very helpful for removing smells!!

Bangin vids Tyler! Who's the cool cat making the announcement? Sunday Sunday Sunday a-fffvvrew-vrew! Lmao, f-ing priceless, especially with a V8 R50 (not R51) flexxing 35" tire sidewall in the background!!! Way to work man! Way to work!

Yeah not even coating pistons with Molybdenum can make them compress water!! Lol, JK...nothing compresses water no matter how malliable. smooth, strong, light!

What would be the benefit? I am missing the boat here entirely! Insanium had BAGS on his QX4...it doesn't get much hotter than that, buuuut I am not sure how they would hold up off road.

Those little holes allow water to drain out water that is sucked in..on my 02 3.5l there is 3 or 4 little test tube looking parts side by side at different levels all with holes in them...I have removed my lower resonator and plan to block the whole in the body with a piece of plexiglass, but the OE lower resonator does a great job of getting air from high up in the fender and filtering out the water. Mikey-I would get one from an 02+ pathy and make the air box opening fit however you can...it is way sweeter than the OE from my 98 was!!

Where does you leak show up? My 02 had a leak on the passenger side near the front of the truck where the soft line meets the hard line just as it is about to wrap around the front of the truck for cooling. It was cured by removing the cheap OE clamp and adding a Lowe's plumbing department stainless belt clamp!!

Caution: OEM uses 16" rim due to brake caliper/rotor sizes...I am not sure how to tell what 15's will fit and which ones won't.

Lexol is the best...spray on, rub in, rinse off...super cleaner! Then use Blue Magic cream conditioner (usually sold side by side with Lexol)...Unbeliveable finish and protection...end commercial here "X" !

Passenger side cam seals leak on the vg33e...there is a TSB about that. I had a leak with mine at just about 90K...became pretty big and was tough to track.