02silverpathy

~~~~LATE~~~~ Ditto on the KYB BEARINGS--J-U-N-K Did my whole lift and spacers, KYB bearings "new" installed...trash! Jumpy steering and terrible feel in the steering wheel...can't be good for the power steering pump to have all of those sudden surges!!

Wait wait wait, so they ticket the car with no proof who was driving it? F that! Burden of proof indeed, duck down low when they click you!! "And in other news, seems as though The Matrix, a movie from the turn of the century, is coming true finally..."

Taller-firmer, stance and ride, bigger tire selection...make the punyfinder look like a PATHFINDER! I had the HD coils, did not seem Harsh, just firm...once the 4 corners are replaced it handles like a well mannered truck!

Probably has hog rings holding the fabric tight to the seat frame. If you have the tool to remove (needle nose pliers?) and a tool to re-install you should be golden...thoug I have never tried it! I am not sure what the tool is to install and crimp them closed.

Mineral Spirits will work better ! It won't remove the plastic, just the glue. Of course it depends on the type of glue.

Dude, that's a tough one...I love the other styles of lights, but I like the OE for the right year also....I guess I'd do the new ones to freshen her up! If you get the newer lenses, get bulbs that are plated in Chrome, or LED's (LED's go right in with no need for an in-line resistor), so that the lenses are clear and red--for real, not orangish clear/red/clear! My $.02 !

2 Thoughts: 1. Our trucks have weak PCV systems...the PCV valve will let things go by...I removed mine, (it unscrews) and cleaned it out with brake cleaner (it is all plastic). I re installed it and put another oil catch device in line. It is an fuel filter for another vehicle I found on the peg board in Autozone. It is a clear plastic short cylinder with filter media inside and its "in" and "Out" on top. I use this in line with the PCV, that returns to the throttle body and have caught several ounces of oil. When the PCV fails to work all sorts of oil can go by. 2. Check the power valve pinned topic. If some of these screws go through the motor it will cause the engine to consume more oil. It really doesn't total the motor, but it does damage. Hope that helps, good luck with the Newborn!

How about a P&P betwen the 2 manifolds and at the bottome leading into the true "lower intake manifold"?

So...do you think that it is just purely the path that the air takes that makes the K&N so responsive? That is, without the ribs in the intake boot.

I have taken my 2 upper mannifolds off my VQ a total of 3 times...everytime I note how rough the inside of the manifolds and runners are (and how much PCV blow-by opil collects here)...this leaves air just tumbling around inside, not sliding right in. I suspect that the roughness, smoothed out would deliver some added benefit, and not be too expensive. After all if a K&N adds a 14.46 dyno WHP due to less pipe restriction and open element, then smoothing the inside of the intake manifolds m-u-s-t provide something huh? My first thought was to have it powder coated inside and out....but that won't really smooth the inside, just fill some nooks...so I am seeking real answers here! Honing? Polishing? Sanding? Mail it out to a pro? Hook me up! I would love to think that defeating the variable runner gizmo might help, but that may also reduce some torq/MPG, as that is what it is supposedly there for. Lol, that would also entail removing those power valve screws ...eliminating any problem there huh?

I have a friend with an older (s-10) Bravada, he was having cooling problems. Had a new T-stat installed, checked the fan clutch, coolant level...seemed to be a mystery. Turns out previous owner had used 1 type of coolant and himself another and voila funky stuff in the radiator and heater core. The flush job took 2 efforts from the local ma-pa radiator shop and charged $165....all better now. My man said that the stuff they showed him that came out looked awful! They do not believe that there is any damage inside, just jammed up is all.

How many miles on the rig?

Straight swap? Or did you keep some parts? Your OEM's look good on your dad's path!

Well, can someone confirm that a 10% difference in front vs rear gears is allowable? If so, then you can add a 4.636 R200 and still use the 4.9 H233b rear....calling all the experts here! Personally, it seems to me like the 4.9 would be raising the RPM's really high for normal driving. I am sure that the X tucking the VG and 4.9's is fun, but would keep you taching pretty high on those road trips.

From another thread...this really worked for me

ugh, I can only hope that it is not a manifold issue. I thought that I read here that there was a manifold issue even with the 3.5's. Maybe it was in the power valve thread? Flushing: this needs to be done gradually, reason being if there is ANY build up in your motor (doubtful), you want to remove small bits at a time otherwise you can clog small oil valleys and cause new problems. I would put 5 qts of the 5-40 synth in with that 1/4 quart being ATF to help cleanse....did you get your PCV changed? This thing cuases lage amounts of build-up during acceleration. I know that chain tensioners on the 98-01 Altima go bad and cause a clicking (I have an alty), which is the tensioner feathering into the timing cover...and yes it is hydraulic also...try making a stethescope with a long screwdriver (or buy a steth) and klistening to the chain cover! Hope this helps, Keep us updated!

That is definately the blower motor resistor...google it. There were a few problems with the electronic controls in Pathy's going bad then blowing only on high...still think it is the blower motor resistor!

Please try Lucas Tranny Slip Fix...My 01 Alty was a hard shifter and would wait for higher than necessary RPM's to bump us into the next gear....this was at 70K. I have since added lucas for about 5K, done a home drain and refill adding Lucas again, and just last Summer another drain and refill with Lucas again. I have spread this flushing out over the last 20K in 1.5 yrs and could not be happier. The tranny is responsive, shifts correctly and is even timely and accurate when you are getting on her! I put this same fluid in my 02 Path, I have noticed very little difference at 50K, but it does fall into lock up with more ease. My tranny has an issue with clmbing semi steep grades and letting go of 3rd, as if it needs a re-flash concerning throttle and acceleration***disclaimer for that is I have 32's on it compared to the stock 29's and m-a-y-b-e the tcm thinks it still needs more rpm's to go to the next gear...my re-gear is on the way!

EBC...I looked at these recently for the reasons of performance and the break-in point! Seems like in the last couple of years the Green Stuff has stepped up!!

YES strut bearing replacement...the little flat piece of plastic with a small lip that swivels under the weight of the entire assembly incl the truck!! OEM ONLY!! KYB version sucks baad!! I do "rent" mine from Autozone....this IS the way to go...when you use these compressors a few times you WILL see flakes of metal come out from the bottom part of the compressor...my fear here is that eventually the spring hooks themselves are wearing away their teeth and eventually will pop loose to severly damge the user, so I swap mine out after heavy use. This = safety.

I wouldn't get that compressor, it si not flexable enough. You will need the ones that Autozone carries, they open subsatntially farther and are independant of each other (2). You will need quite a but of opening to get enough coils mashed shut to safely remove....****Compressing these coils is dangerous****this is why you want super heavy duty compressors. Check out these!

I don't think that age is the factor tht makes us all independantly wealthy, but if you think so :tonguefinger: ...well at any rate if this is my only problem, I will replace it when the frequency increases , gets on my nerves, or stops all together! I get a great deal at Advance Auto on parts, but I just bought Max's front gears and axles, 1 barrel of crude to get there/back (love my path!) and all the new synthetic gear oil to flush and refill the diff....so yeah I'm tapped for a couple of weeks. Advance has a reman for $89.

Hey Kitt!! We should reccommend getting a new tranny cooler too!! They are easy to add and worth their weight in Iridium!! Lol

This sounds exactly the same!! A few months ago was the first time, but I though that I was just over attentive...but the other day I am damn sure it did it again!! Really weird! A 3/4 ratchet should be plenty to wail away!! Craftsman will help if I take it too far! Lol!

No, I didn't wash the engine. Though it has been exceptionally wet I had no water crossing either.