02silverpathy

I don't think that the sidewall counts...it is usually ONLY tread that offends...its a road safety thing for other drivers.

Limited Slip Differential 5-spd ! WoW that would be a hot option, just isn't too many around.

Unless racing, is there really a need for rear discs?? Nissan seems to know some about racing...I just think that if you have gerat pads and rotors up front, a well maintained/flushed system, and maybe steel lines you should be quite happy with stopping power! Those rear drums hold up forever!

Maybe this could help...if you are up for tracing wires!? DIRECTWIRE™ WIRING INFORMATION - NISSAN / PATHFINDER / 2004 / Remote Start 12volts white/green (40A) + ignition harness Starter black/yellow + ignition harness Second Starter red/black + ignition harness Ignition black/white + ignition harness Second Ignition N/A Third Ignition N/A Accessory red/yellow + ignition harness Second Accessory white/blue + ignition harness Keysense white/red + ignition harness or SECU, pin 25 Power Lock yellow - SECU next to fuse box, pin 11 Notes: The power lock/unlock wires will meter while turning the key in the rear hatch key cylinder. Power Unlock lt. green (double pulse) - SECU next to fuse box, pin 10 Notes: The power lock/unlock wires will meter while turning the key in the rear hatch key cylinder. Lock Motor blue 5wi SECU next to fuse box, pin 54 Unlock Motor white/purple 5wi SECU next to fuse box, pin 55 Parking Lights+ pink/black + driver kick, harness to rear Parking Lights- green - SECU next to fuse box, pin 20 Hazards same as turn signal wires Turn Signal(L) gray/blue + SECU next to fuse box, pin 47 Turn Signal® gray/red + SECU next to fuse box, pin 48 Reverse Light yellow + driver kick, harness to rear Door Trigger red/blue - SECU next to fuse box, pin 3 Dome Supervision red/black - SECU next to fuse box, pin 31 Trunk/Hatch Pin blue/white - SECU next to fuse box, pin 13 Notes: This wire is for the glass hatch pin. The hatch door pin is common with the door trigger. Hood Pin yellow/black - SECU next to fuse box, pin 6 Trunk/Hatch Release white/green - driver kick, harness to rear Notes: The fuel door release is pink/black in the same location. Both of these wires are high current negative, so MUST use relays. Power Sliding Door N/A Factory Alarm Arm arms with lock Factory Alarm Disarm disarms with unlock Disarm No Unlock single pulse power unlock wire Tachometer white/green or white/black ac TCM, pin 39 Notes: The TCM (Transmission Control Module) is to the left of the brake pedal. For tach, can also go to any ignition coil or fuel injector and use the wire that is NOT red or black. Wait to start N/A Brake Wire green/yellow + brake pedal switch Parking Brake brown/white - parking brake switch or driver kick Horn Trigger yellow to lt. green/black - steering column or SECU, pin 42 Memory Seat 1 red/white - Seat Control Unit under seat, pin 22 Memory Seat 2 blue/yellow - Seat Control Unit under seat, pin 35 Memory Seat 3 N/A - Interface Module: Category: Immobilizer Bypass Required: Yes Type: Transponder Part #: 556UW Alternate Part1 #: 555U Notes: DIRECTWIRE™ WIRING INFORMATION - NISSAN / PATHFINDER / 2004 / Audio Radio 12v blue/yellow or red/green + radio harness Radio Ground (chassis) Radio Ignition green/white + radio harness Radio Illumination pink/green + radio harness Factory Amp Turn-on lt. green/red + radio harness or rear amp Notes: Vehicles with the BOSE system, the front speakers are individually amplified at the speaker and the rear speaker amplifier is in the left rear quarter panel. Power Antenna red + radio harness LF Speaker +/- green - red +,- radio harness Notes: Vehicles with the BOSE system, the front speakers are individually amplified at the speaker and the rear speaker amplifier is in the left rear quarter panel. RF Speaker +/- brown - black/white +,- radio harness LR Speaker +/- lt. green - black/yellow +,- radio harness RR Speaker +/- orange - black/pink +,- radio harness Interface Module: Category: Immobilizer Bypass Required: Yes Type: Transponder Part #: 556UW Alternate Part1 #: 555U Notes: This wiring information is being provided free of charge on an "as is" basis, without any representation or warranty. It is your responsibility to verify any circuit before interfacing with it using a digital multimeter. Directed electronics, Inc. assumes no responsibility with regards to the accuracy or currency of this information. Proper installation in every case is and remains the responsibility of the installer. DEI assumes no liability or responsibility resulting from improper installation, even in reliance upon this information.

You mean Buicks and rocks are different...so Buicks aren't rocks? Lol, I have had both the 3.3 and now the 3.5. I still love and miss greatly my 3.3, but the 3.5 never struggles for power. The 3.3 is like the older chevy's with slow v6's...partly what I miss. The word is "SPUNK" that is what the older R50's had that the news don't have. The 3.3 with cams, intake, and exhaust was plenty tough even with the injectors failing on my rig. My 3.5 has power that seems untapped. I need the higher gears, as I have the 4.36's...but there seems to be power that is still hidden from me, the truck digs out of poor RPM's/gears adn puts power to the ground. I really am thinking of having the ECU sent to JET for flashing.....this is the benefit of the 3.5 all that technology just like LAXMAN said.

lol, it probably wants to know for sure that the truck is moving...there should be a speed sensor wire behind the intrument cluster, and for some reason I remember pink but anyhow...def behind the gauges!

Sweet info! So are there any off the shelf (Lowes, Home Depot, Sears etc) recommends?

Hey guys...my bud of 21 yrs bailed out on me when both of our lives got tough...with him he took His compressor and tools...our Heater, a once great car trailer that I had no use for, and 6 mos of garage rent as well as $750 he personally owed me.......rant over... I want/need an air compressor and am looking for input here: good size/power for a shade-tree great longevity with maint good value I have my eye on a Kobalt belt drive at Lowes, as all the Craftsmen are direct drive...but man is that wallet draining! No tools come with !! Ouch! There is a DeWalt that looks appealing (Lowes again), however it has 2 small 4 gallon tanks, and I can't picture that being really great for banging out say, brake work or suspension work!

No doubt! I saw a $400 set of plates that were so adjustable it made me want to puke! No seriously, they were insanely adjustable...I wish I had gotten to see how much of the OEM strut tower got chewed away to install this....even though Pathies are not really race bred, the alignment on a uni-body is VERY important!!

YIKES! Glad my girl only has 49K on her!! Hope it lasts a while!

Acetone does work....good luck spending tank after tank figuring out what the best amount to put in your FULL tank is though! This means that you have to run it completely empty, and try try again. I had sucess with the 98 R50 and got it loaded with people, goodies, 31" tires, lift, and large box 15" subwoofer to get 21.5 MPG. It took me 5 tanks to get it right...maybe I could have gotten it even better, but I was tired of keeping data and working all the small driving details out! Mythbusters just shoved some in the tank and called it....when you add too much per gallon, it does decrease gas mileage. I am not a science major or a chemist, but I am sure it has to do with Acetone's flammability! That shh will light just by thinking about it hard enough!

My 2001 Altima (90k) I believe shares this sound with your pathy...at any given time it sounds like the AC comperssor is running. A sort of static'y constant wshhh sound...does this best describe your noise? Please keep us updated! I know that when a tensioner has lost its spring, there is a chance of hearing it bouncing off of the chain cover on the Alty, not sure of the Path. This noise of course then could be the bearings in the tensioner sort of howling.

I think that the L is for Late, as in later R50. Just a guess....eesshh maybe they also meant last R50!

Does everyone elses CV's look like that? Just wondering...mine do! (Done post jacking....NOW) ....Dang! Just bac from looking at those pics...I feel short now! CALMINI why did you give up!?!?!

GREAT INFO Bigmatt!! Iridium plugs require much less voltage to fire...this makes it easier on the coils to fire...the cold indicates that electrons move less in cold temps, so the coil had to work harder to fire (faulty coil shows up worse in cold temps). I replaced all my plugs and yes it took about 2-3 hrs...not hard at all, just take your time and remove all necessary parts. O2 sensors...I thought that somone said you had to have David Blaine skills to get to one of them but I cant remember. Use lots of PB Blaster and it will be easy(ier) to bust loose those O2 sensors. After replacing your O2's on the 2001 model go ask the dealer to update flash your ECU, there is a TSB about the trucks computer warming up the O2 sensors funny and shortening their lives! NEW COILS!? I think that at this point I would ask Bigmatt...he HAS done all that homework!!

Xplorx4 has the $1000 Jap spec headlights!! OEM xenon lenses!! (Jealous) You can get FX45 xenons in with work...I am working on getting parts now!

right now, I have a heat shield on my passenger side rattling that I can hardly figure out why/where it is loose or touching...very metallic sounding. It is not the post cat heat shield either...pain in the arse! Could your noise be this?

don't lose hope yet...it is probably the clutch in the pulley...may be able to replace the clutch--or rebuild clutch. To me this sounds easier than replacing the compressor, I mean with the metal lines and all. Wish I had done it before to help more!

Great color! That front bumper looks crazy mean...and was another instant 2" lift!! I wonder sometimes if I should have gotten an X...just to avoid the front CV issues. Nice rig man!!

WoW! That is a crazy set of events...I remember clearly what you went through. Did you get to see the old parts? I am curious to know if this lower manifold swirl-valve problem is due to an oil build up..as our PCV valves suck bad!! I installed a cheap fuel filter (clear plastic with filter media) in line with my PCV and have already in 2900 miles caught about 1-2 ounces of oil---this would have gone straight in probably in the form of vapor, but over time made quite a sticky residue!! So the lower manifold has the swirl valves...does everyone need to loc-tite those also or just the top set?

What do you mean about the matched R50 part? So I am trying to get the front diff off of Max from a 97-98 this would not fit my 02? I thought that all matched from 96-04...minus the all mode parts.

Deka...I have the "Seamate" it is now 3 yrs old and sat for 1 yr...still going strong!!

WoW! Ok mine did not look like that at all! I only had 47K on the truck at lift time...I was concerned that the tough rubber section would be the part to tear...never thought that the metal opening would wear like that!

Dude, it is crazy important to divulge what year and motor you're dealing with...I made the most expensive mistake with this rig yet by messing with my exhaust!! I have an 02 with the 3.5 and put a cat back 2.25" dual to a single GIANT magnaflow (x pipe inside) dual in dual out muffler and lost gobs of TQ...I had it hacked off my truck in less than 2 hrs and was welding the OEM back on minus the rear resonator. On the flip...I want badly to put a Flowmaster 50 series SUV muffler (had this on my 3.3). I loved this muffler before and with 2.25 dual in and 3" out felt like I lost some tq then too. I am getting the impression that maybe the 1.75" OEM is best for torque and will swap my Flow 50 in and go with 3" out.....I did not mean to post jack, but please insert thoughts on this as well as more specifics to help solve this situation for SnowSurfLax....and maybe me too!!

anyone here ever replace the strut "grommet"? Part that the strut nut snugs against?