02silverpathy

Totally agree! I checked it with the wheels down but i do need to lift her up and try again. Is there anything specific to look for w the CVs? I know they are old and seep grease but the boots are actually ok.

Greetings all, It's been about 7 or 8 years since I posted, but I still own my pathfinder! I have recently had battles keeping the maintenance up to date. I have struggled for 2 weeks sorting out a four-wheel drive issue. I have manual warn locking hubs that I just serviced to work correctly. My four wheel drive works as it should. However cruising in 2 wheel drive with the hubs locked I get a single thud fairly randomly from the front end that you can feel shock the truck has if you hit a bridge abutment. Running the truck in 4wd hi seems to alleviate the problem but I have felt them much more subtley in 4hi. If anyone has any thoughts or any experience with this please let me know!

If plastic look for the aluminum ones on ebay....they are the best! Just need to order 1 new coil pack to fit correctly....I believe it was #1 spark plug.

Are yours aluminum or plastic covers?

Anybody here with a late r50 monstalined?

/\ /\ /\ Same for my 02. Click the button a couple times and shes back to normal.

Seafoam is our friend! This stuff does wonders the first time you use it. I used this on a Mazda mx3 with 249K and it really woke the car up....amazing.

You may as well get at that rear thermostat while your that far...and the PCV valve too. In this pic the PCV can't be seen but is on the rear of the valve cover on the left...it is a PITA.

I get between 16-17 with open hubs, 4.6 gears, AC lift, and lowly 31" tires.

The VQ is a top performer, so of course it needs more attention...great vid! I have had both VG & VQ. I miss my VG, mostly due to its gutsy never give up feeling. I have JWT S1 cams and they livened up the load...but never to be confused with my VQ. .....I am not looking forward to the RMS leak, but I already have the valve cover thing on the drivers side...dang expensive covers for fiberglass huh? ~01Silvapathy~ Your vid shows the path running an 8 sec 0-60....this is exactly what the car mags qouted them at back in the day! This was faster or as fast as the Tahoe which was a huge deal at the time!!

Ahh, this forum is the best. Most all the folks on here have the best intentions! I got another strut mount, from Advance this time, and will be mounting both sides on top of the mount isolator....I will post my outcome. Thank you all...again!

Beautiful! Thanks for the link! ~Devonianwalk~ Have you experienced any issues with the axles?

Yes sir. Bearings and mounts. My spacers look like NX4's top mount style, but I have been using them inside the coil set up. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Hmm, it appears that by using my spacers on the inside there is no support under the rubber mount, so they are more able to pull apart. I have used these spacers for 6 years and only replaced the drvrs side 1x and now the passenger is headed for its 2nd one. Anyone have pictures of there rig with the top mount from NX4 in use? I think that I might try them on top of the strut mount, but don't want to be taller in the front than the rear.

Hi all, been a long time since I really posted much of anything. I have however continued to love my pathy...well it hasn't been mutual lately. I have the AC 2" coil lift set up with a 3/4" spacer, which is mounted inside the spring/strut combo. I recently replaced the passenger side strut mount and have driven it approx 3K on road mles and it is wrecked again (rubber seperated). I am fed up with this totally. Please post up with your set up (inside strut combo vs outside vs just spring lift), and your woes. Maybe you can help ease my pain! **If I was spending more dough on the pathy I would lose the spacer and get a SFD kit, but that is a "new" bathroom amount of money away.

Yo! It looks great, nothing like a mid-sized V6 being a beast and not wearing jeep skin! I love it! My .02 I regeared when I had 265/75's on my stockers (same wheels as yours too), it was awesome...the 4.63's make her jump to attention. I can only imagine the difference you will feel carrying those anvils (OEM 30lb whls)and entire rubber trees around after you swap! I WILL say that my 1.5" spacers did eat my wheel bearings so dude with the backspacing comment on wheels your right buuut they will still wear shht out...as will 35's lol, but we do this knowing that! Maintainence is easier than the customizing he has done, therefore almost fun! Just remember, once you cut up your buggy, it won't be "stock" anymore...right now you can still claim that~~~oh yeah and you can't put that metal back on like Nissan had it! Nice work man enjoy! ps. I have gone back to 31's and have aftermarket wheels...I know, I suck. I have however wow'd a few Silverado fans in my area, especially when I leapt over a small stream and ripped my strut insulator apart!

The following is a rant , effectivly my $.02 for a multi million dollar company: This is the reason that American business SuCkS! We get beat religiously by other countries out there trying to be constructive not combative. These guys suck.....seriously dude you got the balls to send back a request for 15g's from an American that HAD the potential to buy your spendy garb??? I got 2 words to kick your a** with in any exhaust conversation.... 1)Flowmaster 2)Magnaflow Any replies on that Mr Borla?? Your a joke, just sit in the "Snapple" position and hope for the best....do you remember their ad campaign? We like being 3rd (Behind coke and pepsi). I would too since you will never make any strive to be past 3rd place....good luck my friend...Just one more thing, did you laugh at the Hyundai Excel when they hit American soil? So did the American car companies, good luck keeping up with them now. Go make some cool mufflers for the 300M ...stay away from the Hyundai Genisis---BMW can't run fast enough--- B-M-W has expressed concerns about their power, luxury, and quality growing faster than the oversized engines and curb weight of their M3's; let alone keeping up with their M5's. Constructive + Creative = $$$ Combative + Greedy = No growth Dude its as simple as a couple sizes of mandrel bent pipe and your best slling muffler stuck on the end...the install is the same complication level as any 88+ Silverado. So make a whopping investment of a set of each of the following: Dual 2" mandrel bent aluminized-->2 into 1 muffler 2.5" mandrel out Dual 2.25" mandrel bent aluminized-->2 into 1 muffler 2.75" mandrel out Dual 2.5" mandrel bent aluminized-->2 into 1 muffler 3.0" mandrel out Whew that was work! Now dyno test these units on the 3.3 (96-99.5)and the 3.5 99.5+ - 04) I'll help just a bit more....the 2.5 into the 3...will kill the torq on the 3.5 scratch that off the dyno schedule...loser! :end rant ps: in no way was this an attempt to belittle anyone driving a 300m M3 M5 or any other BMW.

Hi guys, Does anyone have pics or instal notes on Installing front lights with no brushguard? I am thinking of taking my guard off and want to keep lights on the bumper or something of a smaaall light bar on the front.

$.02 The main problem with any figure here is the ridiculous blend of ethanol in the gas. You just never know what percent of TruE gasoline you are getting...we may assume as least amount of gasoline as possible. While I am all for making the earth green again, I can say that corn should be on my table not in my tank. I have only run 93 Shell V-Power in my rig....2 times since I bought it (w/42K now 78K)I ran 89 Shell and noticed only small "light on its feet" difference. After understanding how oil/fuel delicate the VQ is (and yes it IS painful to say delicate), I have run only the best in it...note I do not drive it everyday, it costs a lot compared to my oversized lawnmower Honda HB. What I can say is that by adding the CoRRecT amount of Toluene/Marvel Mystery Oil to your tank you can boost your Octane and get crazy response from your rig (VQ powered)and not damage anything. Yes let the naysayers join in, but before they do please google...Vette and Porsche owners mess with making their own racing fuels all the time. The VQ is no less of a racing engine than a 5.7 V8 Chevy....just smaller lol!

One thing to add to this messy thread (sheesh) is that you may even find it necessary to drill out the spindle a little to get to the correct camber your bolts could provide. I would suggest only drilling the top one from my own experience so that there is no chance for shifting after assembly. I am shocked that you need 2 on each side honestly, I do not have an SFD but I didn't think that would change camber angle only the inital spring lift. My shop drilled out the top of my spindle (not the strut) installed the bolts, invited me back to show me how and why and told me I would be able to adjust camber myself to avoid the shop rate for camber adjustment. Torquing the bolts is the final point to make, as that determines how long your camber stays straight...these are the kinds of places to get work done!

Man this is a tough topic. My 02 VQ with a large oil cooler is VERY touchy. I have just the slightest overage in fluid when hot. The result is that when this trans is cold it slips gears baaaad, so I take it easy on it and let off throttle for it to change without spinning up. Once warm everything goes back to normal, but for sure check check and re-check that level as you fill up. I am not liking the prices for a VQ 401 trans that I see!

Um, let me try to help here. I had the uber expensive EMU sh** on my 98 and yes they did die ultra fast. They made terrible noise when backing and wheel turned to the right...turns out that the front right strut was dead and dry inside of a year and that noise was its resistance. Not flattering for that kind of dough. I now have KYB GR-2's and they have been great for 3 years. If you are really offroading you may want a stiffer front strut but with my lift and 3/4" spacers they have been champs!

Man that is dead on...MAF sensors included here!

Lol, hey guys, that thing belongs in there as odd as that seems! Apparently it is supposed to stop "oil" flow through the ventilation. Whether it is a physical barrier or it slows vacuum enough to prevent it I am not sure. My 98 had that too, at best I would check that the bristles are in good attached shape and put it back, maybe with the tail end of it flared up a bit so it can't move in there for sure. EDIT: I would love to see the part number and description on that just for fun!!

I totally wanted to do this also. I do not off road but love to beat it up in the snow and any other mud situation I can come across. Something to keep in mind....you can lock one wheel if you want with manual hubs!!! This would be the same as having the open diff essentially!