02silverpathy

July August September

April May June reason for edit: had posted a double

January February March

Cue Jingle: Happy happy birthday, Happy happy birthday, Happy happy birthday, Happy birthday ~ To You!

This has the making of a group buy, lol!

Wanted to mess with the idea of HIDs, but have yet to spend the money. HERE is a person that adapted some projectors right into his factory housings, apparently Murano/FX and Acura TSX projectors are top of the list for this activity!

Seat heaters are a "dead short" the only difference in the two is the path the current is given (low, high). If you want to check them first just figure out which wire is ground and then fire some current through the others to see if they heat up.

Lol, been waiting to see that one...March-- "spring mud princess"

Sold my OME's when I let my 98 go...loved them. They were less springy than the AC but not as tall either. Their front struts were not as pleasing as the KYB's I hae now. I did like the rear shocks, nice firm supportive bounds in the back, sold those after the 98 left also. Current: AC springs 3/4" spacers (front inside spring strut combo) KYB front struts OEM rear shocks (suck, and are dying fast)

I do not have a pic of my set up, but it is easy to type up. The hose leaving the PCV connects to your throttle body...right beneath it actually. In its path it also uses a small brass colored metal line that bends arouns the intake. I took this metal line off and used new fuel hose from the pcv to a small open space close to the brake booster, this is where my "catch can" resides. I do not have the catch can mounted at all, the fuel hose is rigid enough and the filter light enough to hold it in the air against this tiny open space. I have had the same catch can (fuel filter) for over a year now and it works great. When I change my oil I diconnect the can and spray it clean with brake cleaner so I can see when it fills again. The reason I used a fuel filter is that it was small fit perfect, I can see through it (for the most part), and it has a filter to catch the oil vapors. I found a pic that is close to what I am using and it was an off the shelf part at AutoZone. "Catch Can"

That spindle leaves no room for the ball joint to come out any way other than perfectly straight up. A neat way of releasing the ball joint is to use 2 hammers and rap the spindle from both sides together at the same time. The pressure you exert on the spindle leaves it passing that same pressure to the weakest part, the ball joint, so the joint will pop right up after a few well times strong raps! This way also works if you are planning to re-use a ball joint, as those d*** seperators always destroy something!

I had OME HD struts on my 98, along with OME HD coils. They were awesome new, 1 developed a horrible sound when backing up and turning the wheel to the left. I kept these struts after selling the truck and returning it to factory. I put them on my 2002, the noise got worse, the truck seemed hoppy in the front. I used AC coils on the 2002. The struts had about 7K alltogether on them...1 dead as in did nothing...and the oher was lethargic but would still absorb ups/downs. I know own KYB's and they are smoother at absorbing the blows, the valving seems just perfect for the lifted R50. Keep in mind that my strut spacer is loaded inside the spring set-up, not on top so I get less extension than some other folks here. I have driven with the lift on now for 1.5 years and 10K with no issues with my KYB's!

If it is like Honda's it uses a small stamped ring that threads to the back of the lighter to hold it tight to the console.

Is it suddenly louder than before? The timing chain does make some noise, it may be time for a new chain and tensioners??

/\/\/\ Right on! Today I got a return mail from NWP engineering...they may make my Pathy a test vehicle, for a price (lol). So far the 00-01 Maxima uses the same gaskets for the: ------>lower intake manifold to upper intake manifold gasket ------>the lower intake manifold to head(s) gasket. NWP currently makes a kit for the 00-01 3.0 Max, something is in the works here! From their web-site, along with the throttle body gasket/coolant bypass this gasket set reduces intake temps by over 40 degrees farenheit--thus retaining the power that your engine makes when first started up cold, longer! NWP Spacer/Gaskets

Mobil 1 ~in both diffs ~in T-Case ~in Auto Trans ~Extended Protection 5w-30 Engine Oil

This is the right chain of events, as long as there is no scuffed wiring harness the new sensor should do the trick!

**I emailed NWP Engineering asking if they would sell their lower intake manifold collector spacer seperate...waiting for a response.***

Purposed Skunk2 Pathfinder spacer Could this be? They have different sku numbers for each model they offer...could this be real? Skunk2's website only shows for 350z/G35...but they do make one for the altima also what gives? Fleurys, you feel like creating/making something for the engine? edit: go by the picture? They show the same pic for everything with a disclaimer.

That works for me! Thanks! I honestly think that I can prove with my Scanguage that it helps, as it shows TPS, Speed, MPH, and MPG all at once...but I can't mimick the same wind patterns to prove I am not driving into wind, well I could get that spinny thing that measures wind speed hmmm? Spoilers work better at over triple digit speeds, and for longer than brief seconds at that speed....I would love to straighten that rear pocket out and have an idea, but it would cost money to play with it---and much fiberglass skills. The end result wouldn't look horrible at all either. There was a USA Federal gov't study that proved that a particular shape spoiler on the top rear end of an van/suv would change MPGs by UP TO 30%...for us that may mean 26 HWY instead of 20...nice! Problem is we are only given parts of the study, as in no idea how large or exactly how integrated...and of course no further access to the rest said study.

This is really getting silly. I knew that someone would have to shoot at the idea before actually having done it. So lets keep it simple. My 4200 lb R50 has no clue I added 14lbs to it, well at least not after the REVOs (larger 2" and heavier vs OE) , 3 Infinity 12" subwoofers (16.5 lb ea plus MDF box for said woofers), adding the OE hitch and OE brush guard. This 14 lbs did make a difference, just not noticable by the VQ or the driver. The engineers at Nissan are intelligent, that's why the 350/370z's are smooth underneath, same as every other well built performance car or even an eco car. Check out the underside of any BMW dating back even as far as the 80's...very subtle shapes underneath. Point is the under side of any R50 (I have had 2, no WD's yet) is a death trap for air and anything else that goes under the rig (Bugs, animals, people)...adding any type of smoothing underneath WILL decrease coefficient of drag. Take your rig to a hand washing bay and spray the presser washer at the truck, water goes over the hood/fenders, around the winshield, and clears the roof. Spray underneath, the water looks confused as it hits the tires, bounces abruptly off the stock splash shield and generally scrambles with no real center of flow down under the vehicle. I do not own a wind tunnel, but neather did the 90 MPG civic guy when he gooped up his EG civic hatch with coroplast and aluminum. Google it, this dude did not touch his engine---his 1.5 has more load on it due to weight however his co-d went down to .17 from .34....by the way the coefficient of drag on a stock R50 is .47---this is nearly a 40% decrease in air efficiency or higher drag than a 93 civic---sounds like room for improvement? I will stand tall that my lifted (less efficiency), oversized tire outfitted (less efficiency), boom box carrying (less efficiency), lard-a**ed R50 has an open element intake w/smooth chrome pipe (more power~less efficiency), coolant bypass'ed from the TB (less efficiency); re-geared (quicker response~less efficiency) has nearly acchieved EPA (USA) MPG again with its only attributes being the gears(when driven correctly), roof rack spoiler removal(decreased height for wind overflow), Warn Hubs(rotating mass), and this plate(Co-d).

I don't know if the OEM helps so much...it is worth a try, since I only had mine on for like 1 tank before I got the aluminum one. I also traveld HWY then, so I didn't even consider its MPG. I think that the OEM plasti-shield ducks into the underneath too much before it comes back down to meet the subframe, creating a surface that "catches" air instead of deflecting.

Is that the iris you were talking about? Lol, it looks like a take off of the scientology commercial that is running right now!

I think that its wind resistance, the plastic one dips up into the trucks underside, the new one is flat angled...I can only guess this as nothing else is different.

I have the aluminum skid plate that Steve Fleurys made for me...and I love it! I have indeed NOT taken it off road, however it has benefitted me in another surprising way! I have picked back up MPG that I have been fighting with fancy spark plugs, super clean air filters, light throttle response and acetone....all these things have done for me is solidify the MPG's I was getting. My truck gets a consistant 14.9 MPG CITY. I have learned to accept this as I drive stop and go in 2-3 mile intervals, this is as hard on gas as you can get! Since putting this lightweight flat plate on the bottom of my rig, I have averaged 16.4 MPG CITY. I am super thrilled with this and am still trying to get off road and get it a couple scars, but as of now--well, hell get a skid plate for the MPG's--how unexpected a gain over the plastic OEM "skid". I hope that adding sliders, a highlift and more skids gets me to 20 CITY Anyone else gain from adding a skid or two??