02silverpathy

Mobil 1 ~in both diffs ~in T-Case ~in Auto Trans ~Extended Protection 5w-30 Engine Oil

This is the right chain of events, as long as there is no scuffed wiring harness the new sensor should do the trick!

**I emailed NWP Engineering asking if they would sell their lower intake manifold collector spacer seperate...waiting for a response.***

Purposed Skunk2 Pathfinder spacer Could this be? They have different sku numbers for each model they offer...could this be real? Skunk2's website only shows for 350z/G35...but they do make one for the altima also what gives? Fleurys, you feel like creating/making something for the engine? edit: go by the picture? They show the same pic for everything with a disclaimer.

That works for me! Thanks! I honestly think that I can prove with my Scanguage that it helps, as it shows TPS, Speed, MPH, and MPG all at once...but I can't mimick the same wind patterns to prove I am not driving into wind, well I could get that spinny thing that measures wind speed hmmm? Spoilers work better at over triple digit speeds, and for longer than brief seconds at that speed....I would love to straighten that rear pocket out and have an idea, but it would cost money to play with it---and much fiberglass skills. The end result wouldn't look horrible at all either. There was a USA Federal gov't study that proved that a particular shape spoiler on the top rear end of an van/suv would change MPGs by UP TO 30%...for us that may mean 26 HWY instead of 20...nice! Problem is we are only given parts of the study, as in no idea how large or exactly how integrated...and of course no further access to the rest said study.

This is really getting silly. I knew that someone would have to shoot at the idea before actually having done it. So lets keep it simple. My 4200 lb R50 has no clue I added 14lbs to it, well at least not after the REVOs (larger 2" and heavier vs OE) , 3 Infinity 12" subwoofers (16.5 lb ea plus MDF box for said woofers), adding the OE hitch and OE brush guard. This 14 lbs did make a difference, just not noticable by the VQ or the driver. The engineers at Nissan are intelligent, that's why the 350/370z's are smooth underneath, same as every other well built performance car or even an eco car. Check out the underside of any BMW dating back even as far as the 80's...very subtle shapes underneath. Point is the under side of any R50 (I have had 2, no WD's yet) is a death trap for air and anything else that goes under the rig (Bugs, animals, people)...adding any type of smoothing underneath WILL decrease coefficient of drag. Take your rig to a hand washing bay and spray the presser washer at the truck, water goes over the hood/fenders, around the winshield, and clears the roof. Spray underneath, the water looks confused as it hits the tires, bounces abruptly off the stock splash shield and generally scrambles with no real center of flow down under the vehicle. I do not own a wind tunnel, but neather did the 90 MPG civic guy when he gooped up his EG civic hatch with coroplast and aluminum. Google it, this dude did not touch his engine---his 1.5 has more load on it due to weight however his co-d went down to .17 from .34....by the way the coefficient of drag on a stock R50 is .47---this is nearly a 40% decrease in air efficiency or higher drag than a 93 civic---sounds like room for improvement? I will stand tall that my lifted (less efficiency), oversized tire outfitted (less efficiency), boom box carrying (less efficiency), lard-a**ed R50 has an open element intake w/smooth chrome pipe (more power~less efficiency), coolant bypass'ed from the TB (less efficiency); re-geared (quicker response~less efficiency) has nearly acchieved EPA (USA) MPG again with its only attributes being the gears(when driven correctly), roof rack spoiler removal(decreased height for wind overflow), Warn Hubs(rotating mass), and this plate(Co-d).

I don't know if the OEM helps so much...it is worth a try, since I only had mine on for like 1 tank before I got the aluminum one. I also traveld HWY then, so I didn't even consider its MPG. I think that the OEM plasti-shield ducks into the underneath too much before it comes back down to meet the subframe, creating a surface that "catches" air instead of deflecting.

I think that its wind resistance, the plastic one dips up into the trucks underside, the new one is flat angled...I can only guess this as nothing else is different.

I have the aluminum skid plate that Steve Fleurys made for me...and I love it! I have indeed NOT taken it off road, however it has benefitted me in another surprising way! I have picked back up MPG that I have been fighting with fancy spark plugs, super clean air filters, light throttle response and acetone....all these things have done for me is solidify the MPG's I was getting. My truck gets a consistant 14.9 MPG CITY. I have learned to accept this as I drive stop and go in 2-3 mile intervals, this is as hard on gas as you can get! Since putting this lightweight flat plate on the bottom of my rig, I have averaged 16.4 MPG CITY. I am super thrilled with this and am still trying to get off road and get it a couple scars, but as of now--well, hell get a skid plate for the MPG's--how unexpected a gain over the plastic OEM "skid". I hope that adding sliders, a highlift and more skids gets me to 20 CITY Anyone else gain from adding a skid or two??

You can only really open the AC evaporator box. To remove it you would have to disconnect it from your AC, letting your refrigerant go/ripping new sections in the atmosphere/introducing moisture & possibly dirt into your system, and taking the box out completely...then you can open it fully. A strong shop vac and some patience will be the king of this exercise!

Alex, I'm worried about you. You actually stopped to say something nice about those other tires, you ok? Lol. I have an 02 that I upgraded to 4.63 gears, bought one of S. Fluery's aluminum front skid plates, with 265/75 Bridgestone REVO's, a 2" lift with a 3/4" spacer, drive on pavement everyday only to hop out of my gas guzzler in a suit to go to work and don't give a f-k what any of you think of me! I'm also too old & overweight to woop anybody's Daddy either! ne-aaa

All bragging aside, I do not have these problems...but can somone post a pic of which bushngs you are refering too? Is it the ones that are squished inside sort of a C clamp fixture?

Use a propane torch, and some gloves--maybe even some chrome tools to heat and shape...I haven't gotten mine perfect, but it is worth stopping that "freshly ripped the bumper off the car parked next to you sound"!

I also had SUPER results with my Honda. I have (had) quite a smoke bomb. I replaced the head on my 93 1.5 civic, this and a 1/2 can of Seafoam in the oil has made it stop smoking completely during normal driving. High RPM's still leaves a bit, but that is to be expected as I have some tired rings. If I had to guess, this product cleaned up my oil rings enough that they can now control some of the flow! +1 for Seafoam!

Ok man, check this thread out. This one hurt my feeling as I had a 98 with only 114K (?) and gave up loking for its source of problems!

I think I know what sound you are talking about, I have heard a few VQ's go by that sounded like some links were colliding with each other as they were stopped abruptly to go over gears. Good call testing the coils and you're right the sensors are straight forward. I can only think of normal maintenance that I could blame for such behavior..fuel filter, injector cleaner, plugs. 1-10 how hard was this work? I have seen the pics of the cam gears and their colored teeth for timing, this seems pretty tough at least compared to a Honda anyway.

Oh snap, I work all this weekend. We (You, Lax, Sammy, Me--other locals?) need to make a date up so we can all hook up and go. I finally got Fluerys front skid on (minus a few bolts I had to tap larger), and a Nissan T-case skid too! I just need notice to burn time, I have plenty. Lax how about you? Let the PM's begin!

I would change the fuel filter, if it is clogged it will be tough at idle to get gas through, maybe at throttle the fuel pump is pushing enough fuel through to straighten up.

/\ /\ /\ They may have also figured out that aerodynamically that air was better off going inside than getting forced back out of the cabin air intake. lol, maybe this is simply like you said earlier--the "rest" position for the climate control!

WoW! Super find! What was the damage for our superb motor with 41K? Good luck with all today! Did you loc-tite the new engine or did you have to swap over the intake, I am curious to see if they included that for you. Again, great work and may the Force be with you today!

Way to go man! Where did/are you getting another motor from? (Fueler: I can do it I put my a** into it)

I am all Mobile1, and the most noticable difference was the T-case when I changed its fluid. I must admit that Winter around here is just cold, no snow anymore...jet streams just sail around us, never really lining up for us~~or we are really over-due!

TO all the Manuals across the land---if Pennzoil Synchromesh is an approved fluid, I highly recommend it! It works superb in any gear grinding Honda, and in the Winter is really not as thick as some of the boo-hoo bears complain.

But man listen, really, if you can change your oil than YOU CAN loc-tite those power valve screws. It may take 2 hrs, but seriously giving up the truck over a 2 hr update proceedure is just not ok. Honest.

Lots of moving parts involved, how about Cam Position sensors? They are prone to failure...did the have to come off or get moved? This may have caused their demise....ground wires and wire connections are super important too as they help finish the ECU's thoughts. What went wrong with your timing chain? Guides?