02silverpathy

Ok, so I didn't go pull the hub off...which I will tomorrow, but after checking the left and right CV, they have the same amount lateral play. after looking at several brake DIY's that snap ring does go on the ring land further into the hub, not on the outter area. ...there is nothing in the tire ....the wheel weights are on tight I am going to have to get this in the air and spin it---it does not go away with braking, in case I didn't mention that yet.

Sweet! Will try this too thanks!!! There is 2 places to put the snap ring too...an inner and an outter race...I know that the drivers side I have it on the inner race (closest to the diff).

Closed long lug nuts...wheels are not hubcentric. I snug the lug nuts, then spin, then tighten, as told to me by an ASI tech (if thats worth anything these days). All wheels have been off and rotated...just this one continues to click.Would bearings click? I thought they always groaned. ****I am going to check the inner wheel weights tomorrow***as I am thinking back that I did not rotate the pass side due to wear issues on the rear tire.****

Greetings all! I have a peculiar issue. I have painstakingly changes the rotors and pads on my 02 path. I freshened the bearings grease replaced the rear grease seal and reinstalled...with the correct 4wd bearing procedure...I have the most annyoing click. This click was there before the brake job and is still exactly there after. With the manual hubs on 2x4 I even tried to put it into 4wd to "test" the CV axle for click-y-ness...nothing changes. My theory here was that on occasion after market CV's clamp on the outter boot make contact with the top of the ball joint...the click continues....not a small one, the kind that echo's on a quiet night! This noise showed up after I got new wheels. The fronts have no center cap as the Warn's stick out. The center bore is larger than the OEM dbl tri star wheel...I am at a loss and do not want to be concerned about this issue for a long road trip I am planning in another month. Any ideas would be most appreciated!!

Anyone buy the v-force programmer from Jet yet?

XplorX4 is right, along with check the actual timing too. You must use a timing light for this and follow the directions in your haynes manual. Doing a valve adjustment might be another great rebound for the engine. As engines get older somtimes they need a little extra help making what they used too, even nissans.

Technically yes my tint is illeagal in all states. The windshield is a big no no. You can get pulled over anywhere for it, along with having a tissue box in the front window. I happen to posses a doctors statement stating that I have sensitive eyes...this may still not be a "get out of owned, free" card. I drive pretty responsible and have only ever been questioned 1 time...got warned that most cops will ticket me, some might hold me there until I peel it...lol good luck with that. 1 800 contacts..."I have special eyes" ps...50% tint lets in 1/2 light 35% tint lets in about 1/3 light~~~35% is > 50%

Dude! Those tires are not doing YOU justice!! They look like Street AT's...would love to see picks of you beating on a set of Firestone M/Ts!!! ....what are they?

I am certain that our trucks have DFCO Decelleration Fuel Cut Off...this means when not on the gas over xx00 rpm's the engine cuts fuel to the engine, so it coasts without using gas. I have an electronic mpg gauge (Scanguage II), when coasting the MPG goes to 9999...I have never looked to see if the gallons per minute go to 0 or 9999 but this is my best guess.

I have the same issue on my rig. I have a front & rear diff out of a 97 (4.63 upgrade) both with about 100K on them. They leak, but to my knowledge are not loose. The seal doesn't leak bad IMO so I lend it to being a truck. Heavier gear oil may help, but I'm not sure if that is a real good answer for our trucks.

From talking to an online discount tire rep, the revo 2 was developed because the original had BAAAD treadwear issues. the issue was that they didn't make it to 50K in good shape. So they re-did the tire, nearly the same but made the compund more able to reach past 50K miles. I have an original set, they have about 45K and pretty good wear on them, I don't drive my rig much and pretty much never off road...45K miles for over $700 is bad. But given the performance I will rebuy another set. I would buy Firestone M/T's but I would have then officially made myself a poser!

Wow, you go away for a minute and there is now ECU stuff for our stepchild R50's! Yaay! I will buy the V-tune this Summer for sure. I was going to go to the dealership and get a flash for advanced ign timing, but no way. I would rather do it myself!

Aeroturbine sounds great even at 90 MPH climbing a mountain! At high speeds it sounds like stock but louder. During lower speeds, well check out the idle vid that I have, you can hear its tone.

Cuong: I'm glad to hear somone else puts oil in the filter before installing it! I get razzed by buddies all the time that think it is rediculous that I put oil into the new filter until it won't absorb any more...I say see your Chevy in the JY while out ebay shopping! Lol. They all making knocking noises anyway but why not give it a little chance at a non-dry start up. Sometimes (when I have it in the garage) I even use Marvel Mystery Oil in the filter so that it goes quicker into the engine on that first start-up...love that stuff.

Found the problem...super simple. I had a vacuum leak in my intake piping....that's it. I had also triggered a P0170 lean right bank code, that has yet to some back. The truck had been parked idling for ever in a driveway with the rear end higher than the front by about an " difference, this could have contributed also as the fan was only pulling "x" amount of cool air.

Lol, I notice all the time the number of new cars with burned heads and tails...this is a cut in cost of manufactoring. I really hate this because this also uses up resources intentionally to throw them away. Go price bulbs at the stealership~~~they can't wait for your bulbs to burn out

Dude, glad you can type! Thankfully you made it out!

I have rode in one chopped like this...TONS of FUN ! You get the bounce of a low-rider truck but the air of a vert. This one had a top that should have latched back on, but didn't go so well. For a while this truck was raised and on 33's and due to the notching in the frame folded in on itself and crushed the top, so back down it went and permanent vert!

The intake is a BIG deal, make your own though and do not uise the factory piping, it really slows air down! You can bypass the coolant line going into the throttle body and this will keep the horses you have available simply by not heating up the intake manifold. Exhaust...to my experience on the 3.5 it is better to stay about 2" or less on the dual end and then no larger than 2.5 for the outlet. I went 2.25 and 3 respectively and lost gobs of torque and went back to stock. I have an aeroturbine muffler installed and the rear resonator removed and am pretty happy. ECU...I have read that you can pay Nissan (or whoever you know that has access to a CONSULT II programmer) to advance your ignition timing 2 degrees (using high octane) to safely get more perfomance and MPG. I have yet to bother my local dealer, but really want to. There... $.02 edit: you can change your gears to the 4.63 ratio to extract more quickness, but you will lose some MPG on the highway.

Mobil 1 Synth 75-90 in gears Mobil 1 Synth ATF in T-Case (I have lever model T case)

Don't buy the leveling plates from Rocky Road, they are a joke.

As a daily driver the 4.636 gear upgrade is totally worth it. I am sure with the 3.3 that you will greatly appreciate the gear swap, I did and I have the VQ. I had JWT cams in my 98, with exhaust and an open air filter...it ran strong, but I can only dream of what that gear swap would have done. Oddly enough it was an XE with some oem upgrades like power windows and locks as well as an LSD 4.36

I thought the same thing about the fuel filter. Kruddy part is I just changed it 7K ago. I know tons of stuff about changing them often, but I think once a year is often!

Sounds right, but with no codes all shots are in the dark with regards to replacing yes? Anything else?

My VQ (67K) has been doing something for a while now, however it is starting to get more frequent. While in drive, stopped, the idle is fine at 650-750 RPM. Truck fully warmed up, etc. Then for a few turns of the engine it drops to 600-650 and feels like its grinding through the steering wheel and brake pedal...almost lopy as if a cam were installed. Then returns to normal for several moments again. I would say if I were to be stopped for a total of 5 minutes, in drive, the truck will pull this weird event every 2 minutes?? I have also heard this lopy idle happen while its idling not in drive, but can't tell how it felt as I was not in it. I have a Chevy buddy that heard this happen and actually asked if I had changed timing or done other work to the engine as the lope for those few seconds makes it sound more like a V8. Any ideas out there?