02silverpathy

5 spd VQ + Super LSD = Jealous! Congrats Mang!

gotcha

/\ /\ /\ Old skool! I love it! This is from when you had to buy a seperate unit to cross over frequencies! Another way (old skool also) to get the highs out of your subwoofer amp is those RCA plug ins that block highs...I will try to find a name. They look like 50 cal bullet casings and plug in right to the amp or right to the deck, they come in different frequency block settings, however they are NOT adjustable. That 4 channel bridges into dual single channels..it'll work fine. Its only downfall is that it may not hae been designed to push current like that for long periods of time...but a name brand amp will make it for years. Anybody remember the old PPI Art series?? Most of those got ran in this fashion...te he he and most of them didn't have freq. filters either!! ( I still have a 2 channel and a 4 channel and am still using them!) edit: found them! Still out there made by Harrison "F-MODs"

Dude, I am no metalurgist but heat expands metal, this would make it tighter. You can use the heat and PB Buster to help "break" the frozen aspect of the bolt wether its dirt or corrosion, but wait for it to cool before trying to twist it out again. Water is the only common substance that swells when colder.

Very odd, I have wiped my pump off too. I blamed it on a bad sealing oil filter that blew shhh everywhere, but now that you mention it I am thinking the same thing of mine. Of course, I have no off road time, but I do have the weight of OE wheels and larger tires. I never actually thought that it may have leaked. I will have to keep an eye on this myself.

All great answers to why it shakes....to add to the sticky weight theories, I have had a sticky fall off because the guy that didn't care about my paid for balance didn't clean any gunk off the wheel to stick it on. The result was I lost a weight inside of a week. You could actually see where the weight removed gunk when it came off!

B-E-A-u-tiful Be prepared to lose a little height when she settles a bit. Looks great! To get my 265/75/16's on my almost no BS OE wheel I had to use wheel adapters, so be glad it fits so well!

Lol, that's what I said!

Should have looked more before asking...the third picture down shows a much larger than stock wheel opening! Nice pics!

What a beautiful truck to have on the trail...super pics thanks for sharing!! Are you lifted, or is it the large Infinity appearance?

Load Sensing Valve It should be adjusted as lifting the truck spreads the "sensing" spring further apart. I should think that and gain from the rear would be worth it. Years ago now I hauled marble tile in my pathy..I was lifted with OME then and having the rear sagged under the massive weight of 160 tile made the rear brakes work just amazing! I could hardly believe that it stopped better with such a serious amount of weight in the back...that valve definatly changes the rear drums offering to the brake system. XPLORx4 adjusted his if I am not mistaken...and you know Dean is a steel trap for anything rig-related!!

You could always take them off of the truck, use compressed air to blow the dust out, and rinse the inside with just a tiny bit of cleaner. I would not use something like dish soap though as it may leave a film inside & harsh de greasers may start to remove the "chrome" inside the light....I'm thinking windex diluted in water. My '02 has the same haze in the drivers side light only.

I am really liking the durability of the IPFs. Basically it comes to these brands ( as well as $$Lightforce$$, and KC) because they install good quality reflectors that make the light output focused and directed vs. just bright light cast in front towards the ground. After looking at the IPF's, they speak more of durability than PIAA or HELLA. Pickles is right about HID, and the metal Hella 4000 might fit that swap ok. I am thinking that the 968's are super thin and would be perfect on the front of the OE brushguard...and then add a set of HID's on the roof where maybe they are safer...either way I will post up the outcome...as soon as my ebay stuff pays I will buy some lights. Any ideas for making a good install on the brushguard without helping it find a way to rust?? It does not have pre-drilled light fixtures.

Pretty straight forward...I want to buy a strong set of lights for the front of my R50. I had Piaa 5250's and I think they were pretty weak for the $$$...dual beam was nice, but the high beams were weak sauce! I am looking for durable, medium to strong light output (obviously bulbs make a difference), spread lights with a little distance for a reasonable price. Now that said, I know that there are 2 IPF's that contradict a little...but that 968 seems like a helluva light for the price! So tell me what you have or have owned and loved or hated...and if I missed any let me know! My plans are for a pair on the brush guard now and later I want either a third in the middle or another pair on the roof! Thanks to all of you captains of lighting out there!!

I have 3/4 front spacers with AC springs and am level. I have 3 12" Infinity Subs in the back in a box also...sometimes the rear look just slightly lower. I have factory rear shocks too so this is also a weak point for sitting level.

My rig is lifted with the AC springs, in front GR2s aer awesome. I had the OME front struts and they were quite harsh. The rear...well I still have the OE's. I want the best shocks for the back but for all the haze over the topic can't tell which they are ??

Add me to the sold list! Here's my question...will it work with the rest of the AC skid plates?

Nice wheel indeed, pics after installation please!!

Get the MAGNUM's dude...then you can spend $60-70 on pads and be set!!

Right, that is how the mounts work on the later year pathy that's what it'll be....I had some OME shocks from my 98 I wanted to put on my 02 and I would have had to mount them upside down. They had a metal boot and I didn't want rocks getting in there scraping along so I sold them....I have yet to put after market rears on my rig.

For my 98 I had bought rotors from "GForcebrake" on ebay...they sell Magnum rotors from Canada...super happy with them---they are still on ebay and sell Magnum Cross-Drilled rotors for $108 plus shipping. They are selling them with Magnum brand Ceramic stoppers too in this $108 price....they are good enough for me!

Dude, that sucks. That is what it should look like with Lift springs on there not without springs at all. That bump is keeping you all right. I would save those for the back of your rig. If you stuffed the fronts that high your tires would bang up your fenders before that bump could help...at least I should think. Super super smart buying those Nissan parts instead of KYB mounts and bearing! Good work mate!

Wait, which end did you have to mount the boot? Boot leading down, or boot leading up? The 00 and new (I think 00) have the eyelets backwards from the previous 96-99's so he may have had to mount it so that those slits did nothing! How do you like these shocks? I need rears and didn't get much feedback on these...what model number are they?

Change all those fluids to synth!! Warn hubs to save some gas $$ over the long haul. Plugs--ehh well maybe not yet I changed my T case fluid just yesturday (59K). It was graphite in color and reccommends that you change it every 30K.My Scanguage at 65mph is reading sizeable up. I am back over the 21 mpg range on HWY again! I changed all fluids now to mobil 1 synthetics...right or wrong. You are welcome to PM w/questions...check my profile and you can see the mods, most slow up our trucks and consume more gas...my goal is to be large, capable, and keep factory mpg numbers.

I used the ATF in my T case, I wanted to have as little resistance in there as possible...so Mobil 1 Synth went in...mucky grey shtuff out.