02silverpathy

WoW @ those pics! Super pic job NZ !

Sca-weet Sam, lloks like I will have to get those gears sooner rather than later!

So the outcome is..... 1 coil pack, cylinder #4, was not tightened down when I did the plugs 10K ago (or the small bolt came loose) 1 driver side valve cover grommet is leaking oil into the spark plug tube,#6, fair amount of oil on the back of the plug for approx 10K miles 1 hose leading into the Sceptre intake pipe is completely out leaving an unmetered amount of air into the intake system The truck is running much smoother now, and I am wondering how much fuel I wasted over the last year with that plug not firing 100% correct the entire time...what a douchebag mistake! I added a few ground wires around the IM and TB, and one from the driver side head to the "frame" with plans for more in the future (read: warmer outside). I also took the time to clean my small filtered catch-can for the PCV system out and wipe the back side of the TB...and take a peak inside at those intake screws--all of the plugs were gapped within 1/2 sheet of notebook paper correct and showed completely normal signs of ignition burn---oil and tranny fluid 100% normal--must have been that coil pack--I'm a stupid douche.

I am about 40 min away from Sam...finally this "mid-atlantic" area is growing!

/\/\/\ He's Dean, I'm Chris! Lol, its a little inside joke !

tmvtaylor on ebay...great stuff available from him!!

Kit (and anyone else) if you are interested there is a dude on ebay that sells a 175* tranny/oil thermostat that hooks up in line...I bought one installed in minutes (after studying the diagram and laying under the truck) and the tranny heats up smoothly and then cools down. I am about 67 miles south of you but it still gets cold here too! The thermo runs either to the cooler or loops back into the tranny...I think that wide open 80% flows to the cooler with 20% looping back in---it is a no pressure drop unit. I have been thinking of adding a magnetic filter inline to see what I can catch---any thoughts out there?

I didn't think that they were bent too badly at all...remember I went true dual all the way back as well! I had this set up installed thinking the same thing that you are---350z bla bla bla. It really comes down to pure HP. The truck doesn't make but 240 BHP and presses 260 ft/lbs...this leads to about the 2" exhaust you are mentioning. The loss with the larger set up was bad....tons of working climbing a hill right outside the shop--oh yeah and tons of noise! I did feel like there was more HP (through acceleration) in the higher RPM's but it just didn't justify the low end poo that I was left with. If I had the money to go again, I would probably get 1.75" mandrel to the muffler and then 2" or more after the muffler as the 2 combine into one. The OE pipes are like 1.5 to the muffler and nearly 2" after the muffler, albeit crush-bent. Now, my VG33E 98 loved the larger exhaust...I ran a Flowmaster SUV muffler with 2.25" to the muffler and 3" after and all was awesome!! I noticed only a slight drop in TQ, then again it wasn't a TQ monster anyway. You are correct that the 350 is lighter but lacks the great gears we have available, but we lack a 6 spd manual option!! Yes yes I still want that, I just need other things first, like a house and college for my daughter (whom is 7!!).

/\ /\ /\ Just 6 more and you could make the Brady Bunch!!

Ok tons of online butt time looking at the ignition system in this Nissan to find that other than a coil going bad it is posible that I have a small discharge leaving the spring of the coil pack and arching somewhere else. The answer to that is to remove the coil and put a dab of di-rlrctric grease in the end arounds the boot between it and the spring, and around the boot and where it meets the valve cover. I think that our valve covers are a fiber/plastic so there should not be any arching there, but it is worth a try! Updates when I get ballsy enough to go out in the cold! To add: so far I have seen no evidence that the Iridium plugs are a culprit of problem. I have not found that our VQ35 uses a waste spark ignition so there is only plug fire exiting the center electrode, no double pulse coming from the ground to center (which would cause a hesitation in fire since the Iridium is the harder metal and does not conduct as well as the ground electrode). If anyone knows differently, please tell me--I kept the OE NGK double plat plugs and can re-install them, they have 46K on them but they look great!

Ta-Da! I only wish I was as cool as the dark knight! I had 2 exhaust systems on my 02 so far! I had from the 2 resonators back replaced with 2.25 piping (not mandrel bent) all the way back to a Magnaflow that had the "X" pipe inside it. This was the longest Magnaflow available (26" long maybe?). This was a dual in dual out set up. After the larger piping and super free flowing muffler (oh and nearly $400 in parts and labor) the truck lost Torque something terrible. I ripped that exhaust off the same day in favor of the OEM tacked back on! I enjoyed the OE until the rear resonator rusted off at the flange, which happens a lot, then I had an Aero Turbine muffler put on and the OE pipe made to fit infron and in back with the resonator delete. My current exhaust looks like hell, but is GREAT ! The Aero exhaust is the 2525xl....it has a resonator in it right in front of the aero foil that is actually the muffler. I have a video up on youtube.....however the music in the background is cruddy and I think that the exhaust has even changed its tone since then so I need to add a new vid soon. and that's my $.02 USD.

Dude when you go buy bigger and heavier tires you will miss the ummph! I am not a large R50 but big enough with 32"s. The poundage for each wheel & tire is just over 74 each !! The 4.6 swap was not hard but does cost a little...well just about as much as the set of REVO's !! I am glad you bring up tires Alex, tires with their circumfrence change the "true" mpg you are getting. Got a portable GPS? You can figure about how far off the speedo is and start dividing into other figures to see that you probably get better mileage than that ODO says! I have 32's and a 4.6 upgrade and my speedo is still showing about 3% off so when my rig says 230mi it really drove 237 miles of land---that is as close as I think some factory stuff can get! 230mi / 17 gal to fill up = 13.53 237mi / 17 gal to fill up = 13.94 small yes, but it adds up ...by the way, I'm still jealous of that color combo you got!

Hope your garage is heated dude...looks crazy cold for this weekend!!

I don't know of Compustar, but I do know of Viper....I had 1 viper alarm/remote start that lasted just over 10 yrs and I sold it with the car!!! No problems ever! They are more than worth the hassle...warm in cold Winter, cool in hot Summer! They can defrost windows, put windows up and down, they can open sunroofs or close everything to arm the system, even page you if they are set off...they are a jem! I have actually caught somone that banged into my rig with their conversion van when I was inside a store. The unit paged the remote and I went outside to find this guy wiping my bumper!! Lol, nothing happened major but he was shocked when I showed up! Now, for the tree huggers on earth with their wasted fuel damaging enviroment claims---stop using electric as it makes more damagin components to greenhouse gas than cars and by the way YES cows emit methane in a cycle that we will never be able to stop since we eat so much meat and use so much leather!! The only real downside is people that leave the car run for too long...that is a waste. I have my timer set on 10 min--if I can't get my but out of the house and leaving in the car it will stop after 10...err maybe its 8 I can't remember. I did have one on my manual CRX--it is illegal in most states to have it on a manual for the front window reason. Only once did I leave the car in gear and it tried driving away. The parking brake got drug across my driveway--most remote starts will try to start a car 3 times---luckily only 3 in my case!

Ding ding ding, me too!

Right! With a finer point the area that the spark must leap from is now defined and aimed vs. a more round blunt end. This enables the Iridium to run a larger gap, or at least that is the idea.

No ping at all, no codes. It is def only under medium load...not during heavy load and not at crusing speeds. I bought the Iridium IX's to relieve some of the load required to fire a coil on plug design--their super fine point makes them easier/cleaner to fire...these plugs have been used for quite a long time in other small engines (ie. fork lifts)...unless I am confusing them with something else.

58K here.

Well I can go for that, but I won't be paying for a Dyno, as there are only a few around here. My point over all is that if the vehicle is sold with X HP, gets X HP and with that power can perform ABC, then making X + 1 HP is a gain over X. The sad part is that no one here can prove this point as the newest R50 is 2004 so we have no way of knowing truly if there "would be" a performance gain out of the box. The accounting student part makes much sense...lucky for me I have boxes of High Current 12, 10, 8, 4, and yes 0 gauge wire--the only downside to giving this a whirl is the cost of the connectors--sometimes these are rediculous! **I think that it was Sun Automotive that was offering the JDM upgrade--

Are these miles highway? I am hardly clearing 200 miles city--using 18 gallons thats a MPG number like 11.5 !! Winter oxygenated gas is in right now so mileage goes down, but to clean the MAF is super easy...just make sure the MAF cleaner you buy says that it is safe for use on all MAF's and spray your MAF from as many angles as possible...then let it dry for a few minutes--reinstall voila!!

No offense man, but dude the only time a gain isn't worth anything is when its around my waist. If the stock grounds are indeed so bad that they rob this sort of output...than it would be improving engine performance...as the engine has no other option but to perform to the best of all of its peripherals. The fact that in Japan you can get some vehicles with the XS Engineering grounding system as an OEM upgrade simply proves that it is an improvement over stock...so what then would you accept as a performance gain?

Careful Dan, Hondas are addictive too! Biggest problem is that these parts are more available and much cheaper...its a crack and heroin combination! Sweet ride love the stock wheels, keep that red waxed up!

This makes sense, go out and google XS Engineering Hyper Grounding kit. There are several with dyno showing gains from grounding the head(s), engine block, transmission, ECU, and replacing the OEM grounding cables to the battery. If you want a specific case google the XS in conjunction with an 850l volvo!! They gained a dyno'd 15.8 WHP and 11 TQ--may be the strongest gain out there---maybe not?! But it goes to show that fine strand ground wire helps alleviate electrical stresses of todays engines---they even did an S2000 and found the strongest gains by grounding near the coil packs. I am going to try this to see if it changes the light miss I have in my VQ. (posted topic in the Garage sections).

Dude, (Venge) you know I love this thread but I have to admit I came by to see if you had posted your new rig!! Damn, foiled again!

No coils replaced as of yet---I did read on a Maxima forum that they hook up DC-DC converters and boost up the coils output by 2 volts for a total of 16 and get great results. Is there a way to test a coils output/resistance (or is it capistance)?