02silverpathy

The only thing that sucks about the mesh is whenever there is a stock pathy, in that darker "silvermist" color that has the mesh it can sometimes be confused with a Subaru Forester when coming at you---the Forester is tall for what it is and the Path is low for what it is!!

Those are some sweet wheels, and factory are definately a tough replacement! I think that these wheels will pose little prblem...as long as you know those are 15" wheels~~in case you already have 16" tires!

You got it!! Nice pics! Thanks!! My truck is no longer a DD so I can swap pretty easy!

I use Marvel Mystery Oil 1qt replacement at oil change...seems to keep me at the top end of the MPG chart....really worked good in a friends 140K Escape. This stuff is ancient but really perks up small engines, like power washers and mowers! Goes in gas or oil...I have had no increase using it in gas, so I do use Lucas gas treatment, for further lubrication and MPG--not Injector cleaner as it is more of an oil than a solvent. I use Lucas Tranny fix regularly, this stuf really does improve shift times (or put them back to spec), however just like the fluid is suseptable to wear. After about 10-12K the vehicle will start to go back to slow shifts. In the path the Lucas lasts even less (and I do have a large Hayden tube/fin style cooler), probably due to heat exchange. I am cautious about the Lucas oil treatment as it really co-agulates well, not sure if that is what todays engines need or if this would gum up the works (turbulence maybe?).

Hi all, I have an 02 path and am feeling out to see if anyone has a 2000-2001 R50 grill for swap or sale...I have an 02 but like the OEM mesh 00-01 better...thanks! My color R50 is Chrome Silver for those interested in swapping!

Holy Hanna...looking at it it does look like lots of fun, but that sounds extra fun! Thanks for the experience/warning

Go Aeroturbine!! I am trying to get one right now as my rear resonator section fell of last week...yup at the flange!! Go 3.5 exhaust!! I have a coworker that got one on his 04 F150....I can verify that he got another 3-4 MPG out of it!! Granted this is on a V8 but so what just swapping a muffler no pipes nothing else--cut--swap---weld, this beats up on Flowmaster as he did not change diameter of pipe just the muffler.

Shop straightened me up and I marked his spot for the top camber bolts.. the bottoms I just pull as far out as possible..this makes it pretty easy!

Oye, I didn't sign with them yet! Maybe lucky??

One last thought with the 3.5, the variable timing adjusts its curve around 2250-2500 RPM and the engine is definately most effcient in the same range. I can safely report the efficiency because of the information that my Scanguage II gives me. The MPGs are at best in town with OD OFF up to/under 45mph, with OD on the tranny switches alot and wastes gas trying to stay in an "efficient" gear. In the cold Winter months when you are first pulling away from your parking place just barely feed the gas pedal and watch the tach while listening to the engine...right around 2250-2300 the engine perks up and the exhaust note sounds smoother---I would tell you that the Scanguage II tells me the exact degree of timing but timing changes faster that the Scanguage can report even on its quickest refresh rate! I too have reduced my HWY driving to about 65, as with lift and tires this is my best shot at getting to that 20 MPG...this leaves me (tires/gears offset) at 2500 RPMs!

Top hole drilled out is correct...the bottom is more or less for severe cases...yours should have been fine with just the top. Did you buy camber bolts? These bolts are designed to set an hold camber, where as the regular bolts are subject to this type of movement. My alignment shop actually did drill out my spindle bottom bolts but not the strut itself. I have camber bolts in the top and the OEM bolts in the bottom...and as SammyB and I figued out once the alignment is done I just marked the direction that the camber bolts were facing and snug them down then pull the bottomas far towards me as they were drilled and boom (Madden is back in action soon!), all is straight again!

WoW That is sweet all the coolers and the shift kit...anyone ever hear the results?? I am very interested...I think that our transmissions are very slow to switch unless climbing a tall hill/mountain and then they swap pretty good!!

End links/Sway bar links can be tightened by torqing the nut the goes through the sway bar or strut. You just did your lift so this item is probably needing to be re tightened...otherwise I found these at either Autozone or Advance...they were pretty cheap. ...yeah I have had to cut some off before...no fun. Look in the center of the "bolt" sode of the end link--will it take an allen head? Some end links have allen heads inside the bolt and some have a second nut shaped end for you to qwwrench the end link nut off of the bolt.

My first experience off road...about 8 years old in a 1976 Mercury Comet (Ford Maverick) through a farm field about 2 miles to go hunting---for groundhog! My dad had a blast shotting them and the farmer used to give my dad $$ or produce "n stuff in payment for ridding him the pests!! His cattle would fall into their holes and break legs--this is no good for any farmer with cows...especially dairy cows!! I loved how the car would tackle stuff and beat us around the interior--I couldn't help but laugh the whole ride!

Man I hate to tell you...They are not brass. They stuck to my magnetic screw driver. This doesn'tmean that the truck is shot, it will still run even after having this traumatic event--I would totally place complaints everywhere so that this may make a difference eventually.

I did! I had my whole exhaust off in favor of a large 2.25 dual into a open magnaflow dual and out in duals also...I lost pounds of torq...so I had a buddy weld back on the factory minus the resonator...took a few thousand miles but the exhaust actually burbles a little!! volume? Hardly any at all....there may have been 10 perforations in that resonator--just removes this little burble and some raspiness.

^^^Agreed Progressive^^^ I have a friend who's wife wrecked a car totaling it, he (the husband on a different policy) called to take care of this while she was recovering and AIG was XTRA helpful, so he put his policy w/them also!

It was the correct bulb for the housing, just increased wattage. Go ahead dude! I would love to see another R50 with a disappearing lense act!! I tried tail light tint, but it just wasn't as thick...it would have taken many layers for it to get so dark and that stuff likes to lift after a coat or two unless you want to spend hours for it to dry and appl;y it again...screw that I liked the slivers too!

The wheel adapters where like $130 shipped...eBay--the worlds market place!! I DID actually get the Toyota ones...however they have a different lug thread-count so these were not as sweet as if I had gotten the correct set! Most of these adapters do come with lug nuts so not too big of a deal! The poor '98? she was reduced to stock and sold...I painted the front bumper lights with rustoleum black....I cut a piece of painters tape to be 1/4 wide and laid it from one end to the lense screw....then sprayed light coats until I was happy. Touch up is pretty easy minus getting the correct tape spot again---I think there could have been an easier way to mask that line but I didn't figure it out! I used a 50w blazer clear bulb in the housing so that the little strip was super bright---worked like a charm! Made the entire front end look a little calmer...I didn't like the clear bumper lights so I decided to make mine custom! And if you like the A bar for lights~~drill them right into the bumper way cooler look than the bar--which will make your lift disappear from appearance and the height it hangs!

This first pic should show how much further out the wheels really are pushed... ...the second is a look at the tires being pushed out past the body a little. Boy I sure miss my 98! Chrome, QX4 Tails, Corners, Sprayed Bumper markers...and the PIAA's !!

OEM Grill Guards are the best! Love the looks super thick powder coat and only 2 spots to rust...this is where the front plate would mount to the vehicle...if your state needs a front plate!

Wheel adapters would be what you are looking for...they bolt up just like the wheels themselves and then you can bolt up the wheel right to it...I have 1.5" adapters to keep my REVO's away from the same demise!! I am also sporting factory wheels...the only thing with these that really sucks is that now you will definately fling rocks and mud/dirt into your paint when just crusing down the highway!!

Great pics...maybe it is the weight of the converters that starts this problem...never thought about that! Turn those old cats in for cash at the recyclers to try to recoupe the losses!

I just called AIG Direct to find out they are saving me about $450 a year in car insurance!! WoW!! This is for the same coverage that I have now with Unitrin/Kemper I have been with the same company for 10 yrs and now am feeling screwed!! Who do you have and how are they?? Coverages are different, but you should have a fel for your insurance company, right?!

They should give you no problems...are you using camber bolts? Why did you want to remove the steering knuckle?