02silverpathy

lewisnc100.... all i can say is for the r50 96-up you must be a guru!!! :cool2:

Greetings all what are you guys using in your diffs.? i have a friend that took his frontier to the dealership and saw the mech putting synchomesh in his diff. says it works great. anyone else hear of this?? mine is due for a change...my rear is lsd. chris

WoW!! You da man! Did you have any problems with the timing marks like another recent post on the board?? If i am doing something that i think is above me i take lots of pictures and zap them onto the computer for later reference or to print. were the cam seal leaks a decent sized oil leak? I posted a while ago that i have a leak that takes about 2500 in town miles to make itself seen again on the bottom skid plate...its not the valve covers and the leak itself runs behind the alternator so i can't quite see it. anyhow thanks again for the very helpful album post!!!! chris ps --sorry to drag off topic--

lewisnc100...that pic album was awesome!! i can't tell you how much i appreciated getting to see what you did!! i am growing more mechanically inclined every day, and i am begining to think that i may be able to do the belt myself!! i have read here before that the pass side cam seal leaks and you took an excellent pic of that...did you replace that and was it hard?? chris :bow:

WoW fastest reply possible would be to say that the search is all the way at the top right under the "INVISION" logo on the right third icon. i can't help with anything else in that dept though--sorry

weeelll, i just cut them there hoses and replaced w/new!!! this summer's maint. includes the evap set replacement, and a new knock sensor with a plenum riser for the intakey-take!! lmao i am getting close to 90k miles so that timing belt is soon!! good thing i love the truck!!! (still LMAO)

hardwaretoad..you are correct! i have been to a second shop who asked if "i did that"!! they couldn't believe either that it was folded so sharply...........so i am going to get it fixed by the new shop..the other shop was so cheap that i am not going to complain...what i noticed when i was chaning my fuel filter (horrible task by the way) was that the welds were beautiful..so i'll leave well enough alone..ps thanks for the advice!!!

Hey BIG JOHNSON I was looking again at your photos and noticed that your piping where the resonator used to be looks like it swivels left then right after it leaves the muffler; looking from behind your rig. Does that cause you any clearance issues? My muffler shop bent mine as close to stock as possible....so it curves wildly up towards the body to clear the axle....thus making that pipe really get crushed down in the pipe bender so that the 2.5 inch pipe is more like 1.75" in a couple spots.

:idea: chicken enchiladas rancheras please...extra gaucamole on my salad too if you will lol

Hey man welcome!! I jst missed your post...I can't speak for the JWT pop charger but check my post....i id notice just alittle difference in power like up hill and under tough loads. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=3216&hl=intake

incidentally i just swapped my tranny fluid and it did help ever so slightly!! '98 XE 87000 mi

I ??think?? usually when you get theat nasty smell the cats are going bad but i guess fumes could blow into the car also??

yep! 50 series here also with/o (resignator just kidding Big J) resonator, love the sound added a chrome tip, and painted the piping itself with high heat black rust-o-leum (just at the back so the tip looked better). sounds awesome, checked for magna flow for myself (have a great magna flow on my 2001 altima) they didn't make a dual in/single out...but they did have a dual in/out set up. .........the question is, should you maintain the stock curve at the end or go straight out the back.....DJDANK you have it straight out the back right? Did it change anything? I saw on the back of the flowmaster box hat having it straight out the back on an suv can cause exhaust to re-enter the vehicle??

yes please still undecided!! -bounce-

Cool topic, i think that i understand (i did get the foglight deal to work with the second relay), but is this an option for the 96+ pathy's?? if not than i don't understand!!

O-K! apprently my rear hatch was not locking! this is why the truck was not flashing that all was locked and armed. I had filled the rear with spray foam, in the hatch. Even after trimming the foam away from the mech-work inside and the wiper arm it hadn't cured yet and kept the hatch from fully locking. Incidentally i filled the hatch so that my old JL 15"s wouldn't buzz like a transformer station through the hatch...it took 6 cans if anyone cares

guys, i may be late in responding to the compressor question...but you could use your rock sliders for the compressed air for the big az air horns!!! the site for the sliders recommends it for light air tool use...soooo you could use it for the horns too and just have to pump them up every so often!!! LOL

I searched our site to try and find how exactly you use the security system. in the owners manual it just says to iniate the alarm to lock all windows and doors close truck up and to press the arm button. well somehow i managed to get the alarm in such condition that it no longer flashes the security light when locked and does not flash the parkers when locking.....sort of like valet mode...or just keyless, not security/alarm. any ideas out there? i tried opening the door and locking/unlocking (this is how you put your viper into valet mode) and closing the door but none of my combinations seem to be working!!

Guys isn't there also a throttle body plenum or maybe it was an intake manifold plenum that you could add to raise the pair of intake manifolds a bit to "swirl" the air going in? Thought i saw that once claimd a whopping 5 ponies for pulling both mannies off....think i would do that with changin the knock sensor that went south on me!!! :oops:

88pathoffroad...i know that if anyone has a sugestion for your question its you!!! So i'll wait to hear. all i have come up with for that very sitation is (which i haven't done yet either) go to a major truck center and look for their air horn compressor replacement. I incidentally thought all the same as yous guys and bought from auto zone the "blazer" twin air horn set and used the two front horn locations as my new mounting points. when facing the truck the horns are in the middle under the hood latch facing to the passenger side, and the compressor is closer to the passenger side wher the other front stock horn is. They do not provide a relay, you are supposed to run it off your stock wiring...i opt'd for the relay, but was able to use thee stock horn (+) signal to make it beep from the horn button. In addition to that garb...the pathy has three horns...hold on this is very cool (i think) The front 2 horns that i removed and replaced were the only ones that blow with the push of the steering wheel, the third mounted back inside the engine bay, beside the passenger side manifold only blows with the "panic" button??!! So when i hit the panic, i get air horn and one of those darn tweety jobs blowing, but i left well enough alone!!! -alcohol- feb 18 national guiness day hooray!

HEY ROWOSU national guiness day is feb 18 -alcohol-

in the linked forum trialsin 26 mentions a spacer lift maybe i just took his two suggestions and read them wrong. i thought maybe the post read that AC made the spacers.....soooooooo how are these dudes fabbing spacers then?? I haven't seen anything at lowes that looked like i could make spacers. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=3760

Fine metal screen ehh? is that to keep the shavings from re-circulating?? The simple replacement is what i did to my precious CR-X (5 spd) and used penzoil syncromesh and that stuff rocks!!! The jdm tranny's are always grinding gears; after syncromesh.....smooooooooth. I must look into the auto tranny fluid market...any suggestions? incidentally this forum grows better everyday, great topic

Sorry about the previous post, but i guess setting up the post is not so hard after all. "Ok guys I do not have either on my pathy yet and the topic of getting lifted is quite the frequent on this board...question is which is better and why? Both sounds great but i can't see me getting away with it in Maryland!!!"

good call Trialsin, I work in the paint dept at the local Lowes part time and WD-40 is amazing stuff, but for anything rubber or grease it is trouble. It will try to remove the rubber and even some plastics. It is however along with lacquer thinner great for removing under coat and many old oil cover parts that need special attention. --Definately stick with the silicone spray-- great post topic :gossip: