02silverpathy

BUMP. starighten me out here with the other post i left here...did i get shafted by the alignment shop that supposed ly "replaced all 10 bushings"?

Anybody here replaced their faulty knock sensor?? was it hard? did you notice a gas mpg difference? did your truck run different? i have a fear of messing up the intake manifold gaskets...is this really a legit concern??

WHOA So if you feel a shifthing kind of thunk when stopping or starting from a stop it is most likely the uppers??? That would really burn my hiney!! Before i even got the pathy back to my state from the auction i bought it from i knew i needed bushings, i paid to have all rear 10 replaced (panhard also)...but now my rear end feels like a last minute tranny shift when i stop and a delayed reation to start...does it sound like i took a shafting?? someone may have an after Easter visit from their worst nightmare!!! :contract:

ooohhh riiight, upon second look i see what you mean hardwaretoad!! -thnkboutit-

Wireless Mouse $30 Cable modem $50 Cable hook-up $50 Good computer $1500 Reading most excellent, hysterical conversation....priceless!!

jj big shoe... they look like flexy flares, i was looking for flares for my R50 and came across them. unfortunatly i am not as serious of an off-road-er so they didn't carry the look i needed!! here is one of many links with the flexy flares http://www.offroader.com.au/tech/flexy-fla...o-gx-kzj120.cfm

that truck is very HoTT!! I always liked the 2-door myself, but any pathy from almost any year is sweet.

88path... what do you use then for the t-case... ...i want to change it also guessing it has lacked maint., is there any kind of gauge to tell how bad of shape the diff's and t-case are in or special cleansing fluid?? thanks for looking out for me!! ps. can you delicatly tell me what AFAIK means or just give a ball park??

lewisnc100.... all i can say is for the r50 96-up you must be a guru!!! :cool2:

Greetings all what are you guys using in your diffs.? i have a friend that took his frontier to the dealership and saw the mech putting synchomesh in his diff. says it works great. anyone else hear of this?? mine is due for a change...my rear is lsd. chris

WoW!! You da man! Did you have any problems with the timing marks like another recent post on the board?? If i am doing something that i think is above me i take lots of pictures and zap them onto the computer for later reference or to print. were the cam seal leaks a decent sized oil leak? I posted a while ago that i have a leak that takes about 2500 in town miles to make itself seen again on the bottom skid plate...its not the valve covers and the leak itself runs behind the alternator so i can't quite see it. anyhow thanks again for the very helpful album post!!!! chris ps --sorry to drag off topic--

lewisnc100...that pic album was awesome!! i can't tell you how much i appreciated getting to see what you did!! i am growing more mechanically inclined every day, and i am begining to think that i may be able to do the belt myself!! i have read here before that the pass side cam seal leaks and you took an excellent pic of that...did you replace that and was it hard?? chris :bow:

WoW fastest reply possible would be to say that the search is all the way at the top right under the "INVISION" logo on the right third icon. i can't help with anything else in that dept though--sorry

weeelll, i just cut them there hoses and replaced w/new!!! this summer's maint. includes the evap set replacement, and a new knock sensor with a plenum riser for the intakey-take!! lmao i am getting close to 90k miles so that timing belt is soon!! good thing i love the truck!!! (still LMAO)

hardwaretoad..you are correct! i have been to a second shop who asked if "i did that"!! they couldn't believe either that it was folded so sharply...........so i am going to get it fixed by the new shop..the other shop was so cheap that i am not going to complain...what i noticed when i was chaning my fuel filter (horrible task by the way) was that the welds were beautiful..so i'll leave well enough alone..ps thanks for the advice!!!

Hey BIG JOHNSON I was looking again at your photos and noticed that your piping where the resonator used to be looks like it swivels left then right after it leaves the muffler; looking from behind your rig. Does that cause you any clearance issues? My muffler shop bent mine as close to stock as possible....so it curves wildly up towards the body to clear the axle....thus making that pipe really get crushed down in the pipe bender so that the 2.5 inch pipe is more like 1.75" in a couple spots.

:idea: chicken enchiladas rancheras please...extra gaucamole on my salad too if you will lol

Hey man welcome!! I jst missed your post...I can't speak for the JWT pop charger but check my post....i id notice just alittle difference in power like up hill and under tough loads. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=3216&hl=intake

incidentally i just swapped my tranny fluid and it did help ever so slightly!! '98 XE 87000 mi

I ??think?? usually when you get theat nasty smell the cats are going bad but i guess fumes could blow into the car also??

yep! 50 series here also with/o (resignator just kidding Big J) resonator, love the sound added a chrome tip, and painted the piping itself with high heat black rust-o-leum (just at the back so the tip looked better). sounds awesome, checked for magna flow for myself (have a great magna flow on my 2001 altima) they didn't make a dual in/single out...but they did have a dual in/out set up. .........the question is, should you maintain the stock curve at the end or go straight out the back.....DJDANK you have it straight out the back right? Did it change anything? I saw on the back of the flowmaster box hat having it straight out the back on an suv can cause exhaust to re-enter the vehicle??

yes please still undecided!! -bounce-

Cool topic, i think that i understand (i did get the foglight deal to work with the second relay), but is this an option for the 96+ pathy's?? if not than i don't understand!!

O-K! apprently my rear hatch was not locking! this is why the truck was not flashing that all was locked and armed. I had filled the rear with spray foam, in the hatch. Even after trimming the foam away from the mech-work inside and the wiper arm it hadn't cured yet and kept the hatch from fully locking. Incidentally i filled the hatch so that my old JL 15"s wouldn't buzz like a transformer station through the hatch...it took 6 cans if anyone cares

guys, i may be late in responding to the compressor question...but you could use your rock sliders for the compressed air for the big az air horns!!! the site for the sliders recommends it for light air tool use...soooo you could use it for the horns too and just have to pump them up every so often!!! LOL