02silverpathy

Bolts and clamps are both sweet ideas, it will indeed still leak out. heres the only headaches i ran into. I had the old bracketry that holds this thing up not come un bolted, so i had to pulll it apart. I fastened it back up with heavy duty zip ties...yes getto!!! the other prob was that the hose was not comping off the old filter so i had to cut it...i end up replacing all the hose on the truck side (opposed to the fuel tank side) all the way up to the steel lines. I chose to replace that side because i could not see where the fuel tank side ended, and the trimmed hose no longer hung where the clamp style mount was (that broke anyway). if you want pics i will get them for you!!!

WHEEL366 is exactly correct!! I had an old Saturn DOHC and it had a dead cyinder in it...well the plug was covered in wet oil anyhow...so whatever that equates too fine, but, that ole' alchol trick made her pass EVERY time!!! It burns extra hot and extra extra clean so nothing other than the mixture of gasoline is there to corrupt.....truth be told fill up fast afterwards..my old saturn would get crazy hot driving to the station with this mixture in the tank!!!

Yo XPLORx4, what is the deal with the tape player thingy that ends to a plug adapter?? Please tell me that it is hooked up to an MP3 player and not a portable CD player!! ps...if it is hooked up to a plain jane portable...PM me I'll hook up up with my stocker if you like!!

Acetone is crazy expensive by the gallon that $9 is way out dated at Lowes in MD I got a quart for over $5...I had tried this before but not diligent enough to give a result however for the 4 tanks i tried i did indeed get an improvement, problem was that i feel as if i may have babied the truck just because!!! Now i have the e-fan on and get enough fun out of the 3.3l truck and i am willing again to try this. so we'll have a 3.3 and a 3.0 checking ersults...that's sweet! Acetone is a great paint remover 88 so watch out!! I work in the paint dept at lowes and everytime we have a spill i usually scam the store into writing off a gallon just to make my day easier!!!

Dead on with the Lucas injector cleaner and upper head lubricant....that stuff definately puts your truck back up to snuff. As for the EGR...i really don't know how the hell it can be cleaned like Mr. P said his was toast so cleaning is cool then, but if it is not toast i haven't the slightest idea what your shop could have been cleaning it with. Every haynes manual tells you not to get anything in or on that diaphgram because it will most likely destroy it. Who knows though the oil industry had us thinking all those years that 3000 was some magical number

errr uhh, has no one else ever dropped a started down onto themselves?? I guess that would be 9.5...so that the second beating was fun and also stress and anger releiving!!

What does an "H" pipe do??? Does this actually add HP or just sound tough? Would there be an advantage on my year pathy, or does the single muffler ruin it for me??

I awnt to say that these were like $20 or $22 each...small price to pay since i have had one set for over three years now and they are in great shape!!! Just a nice rub and they are back to a sweet shine! By the way in case anyone is as dense as me you cannot egt 2 +'s or 2 -"s since they won't fit the batter the same way...the Minus side of your bettery is smaller!!

I think that the factory parts are painted a satin black finish...they are definatly not primer only because they would rust in a flash as primer is very porous. you can get sweet replacements on ebay if you want or check out the "products tested" part of NPORA and look at the fine paints that our own have tried out on various parts including Permatex and POR-15!!

I will promise you that if you get that propeller fan off and put that electric fan on you will not be unhappy with your 3.3 anymore!!! I have modified exhaust (after the cats enlarged to 2.5" and a flowmaster 50 series muffler and no after muffler), Fram drop-in oil/cotton, CAI mod (below turn light), and this fan. So far that fan has made the most serious improvement in the vehicle!!! Incidentally, the tranny cooler seems to make your transmission come back to life also, especially with new fluid and diff fluid changes. I can hardly tame myself with her now. the exhaust combined with the new found ummph is just sweet...my only sour spot is that i wish it felt this way before i did this too her so that i would feel more in pace with today's SUV power bands. Junkyard E-Fan

bump.... has anyone done this since this was first posted?? Did anyone like it/dislike it?? We do need a little follow up here as this is a hot swap and will def gain back some horseys and a bit more fuel.

Right...NGK plain-wraps are the best, best fuel, best power, cleanest burn in a honda...the idea is to let the car use that electrode not fight it...then just replace them. Trailchaser...you got your game air tight!! Jobs aren't always about that $ they are however about benefits like the one's your talking about...I work part time at Lowes to get what ever info, help, supplies that i need for myself....next i need in real estate so i can get a house without killing my life style here in MD!!!

I agree that it is in the neighborhood of 2-3 gallons...my wifes altima gets to that light and i did push it on the interstate once and when i got to the point that hard acceleration made for a small stall, i went and got gas. it was about 2.?? gallson that that light had indicated. Tha pathy--well i like to push a little but with that 15-16 mpg city, i can't risk leaving her on the road!!! Great conversion site!!

O-K help all of us with this issue...we have read before mutiple things that turn on that dang light but is ithere anything to make it go off for at least a couple of years??? --->for the elec. conn. can you give idea of how to fix it?? --->for blowing out the lines does the canister and valve have to be off to do this?? i know that this is a wore out topic...please 88 or precise make this a tidy (tie-dee sssh )pin up so it can be read about freq by us and new users!!

I went to Autozone and got the gold plated clamps that have 2 large inputs and 2 small inputs and ran new ground (and added a couple) and just connected the old positive to the new clamp....I am very happy with the versitility i gaind for the whoa expensive gold plated terminals.

so everytime i look at these pics from your link and the pic that you posted this truck really looks japanese witht the addition of those headlights. :bow: i can see quickly how it would be a lot of work to install...but obviously well worth it!!!

XPLORx4, Where on earth did you find the headlights :eek: ...i am sick with envy :oops: Those are very hott lights, i spent time looking for those since you posted :type: ...can't see them anywhere else..can you hook a pathy lovin goober up?? Where can i get a set and how many ducketts??

Solid Snake, I did just follow their instructions for the install. I located my fan control on one of the bolts that holds the under-hood fuse box to the truck, and used a large fuse/distribution block to provide power. I ran the AC turn on wire to the relay box across the truck on the other strut tower mount. For the fan itself it has three mounting holes for the oil cooler mount kit to, but after mounting the fan i felt that it was too loose on the back of the radiator and was pulling some fins further apart so i drilled a small hole in the last corner of the fan shroud and attached it there also and now it is perfectly tight. ps....if you can get the fan or a fan from the salvage yard definately get the whole harness to the fan. I am looking at this harness for the people that will service my timing belt...they will be able to undo the harness and pull the wiring away instead of having to cut the wires or even hang the fan over one side of the truck!! On this same topic, i did not fully install that thermometer in the radiator with the little kit that it cam with it is just "pressure fit" for now again so the shop can just set it aside.

MWS, That does make sense and i am using 5 pin relays, however in the past I have had a couple that act like "2 pronged" -- 4 pin relays...is there a way to know if it is dual function like you mention (ie in the jargon on the side of the relay??) Secondly, 88 is saying that he nearly melted his 12 gauge...that is a real and scary notion...88 did you run the fan motors gnd back to your battery set up---God knows you go the juice to push the fan?! I currently have a 4 gauge supply that is fused (way too high) and hits a dist block down to dual 12 gauge that runs to the fan through my 2 relays to the 2 fan high side wire....again the 10 gauge gnd goes about 8" back to the battery gnd...do you think IYO that i am at risk for the same melt down?? I did do the diode thing for the fan relays, in fact one for each power wire: 1 low, 2 high. Lastly, can i buy or build that sort of "turbo timer" ( i will call it) for your fan and how so...this is exactly what i was looking for!!! I would continue to run the fan on constant current (key off) but have it on a set time limit via this turbo timer like set up. I re-adjusted my fan a little and it now only runs a little after the truck is off, but due to heat rising will kick back on on occassion ( that i have hung around the truck that long...watch those fingures!!! LOL). ps MWS...wouldn't call it disturbed at all...but if it is, than i am too and da*n proud of it!

1997 is 1 year too new (i think) 88-96 the older body style (spaceship looking) with that funny light up grill on the sable. the licoln mark5 or 8 had the 3.8l HO engine also that you could score one from too....but that 97 is the more current style maybe thats why the wanted so much...if you want one i know that there are a TON here in sheep country!!!

Agreed, the fan shroud covers about 80-90% of the radiator and even on low speed can pull an extreme amount of air through the radiator, condenser, and my tranny cooler. I did wire up the "high" side of the fan to a switch using a pair of 30 amp bosch relays...it really really does move some air. I can't see any reason for using the high side in everyday life, this is why I opt'd for the separate switch. JJ i did go get diodes that are very close to the voltage that they recommend, mine are 1000v at 2.5amps...the one they used was 1000v at 3.0amps...hopefully this all works out. I did run a diode from gnd to low and gnd to each of the high so all relays should be safe...uh-huh??? after running the high side while the low side is running, i notice that the two running together slow to an average speed, not just the high or low speed so that is a draw back, but on a good note none of my wires (or relays) got hot. I used 12 gauge for all power to the fan and 10 gauge running right to the battery for a gnd. If i were just a little smarter i would sit down and figure out how to turn off the thermostat relay when i flip my high side switch on (i think that is called a floating ground) but that just makes my head hurt right now! I did kick the fan thermostat up a notch to make it shut off sooner after the truck is off...I must admit that i spent somuch time making wires pretty and such that don't feel like tying (tieing) it into an ign wire now!!! Lol

XPLORx4, when i first bought my pathy i watched a video over and over excited everytime i watched it....it was yours!!! I just figured this out when i went to hear the sound bites...the third one when your truck tilts uuuuup in the air and you gently set it down before digging out off your sliders...wow great vid and great off roading thanks for sharing!!!

So far just running the "low" side of the fan (it is 2-speed) only cost me $76 for everything. Hayden fan control with relay---$36 3.8L Taurus Electric Fan---------$25 Roll of 12 gauge wire from Wally-world---$17 The fan does run in the parking lot at work, I like the idea of it cooling the truck down after it is off.....I can hear my alty. working to recharge me when i start the truck but i think that is a cheap trade for having it just roast under its own heat. The AC is tons cooler...here in my area we spiked back up to a 100+ heat index today and i must say that is the coldest that my AC has ever felt!!! I think that i had read where MR. Jim had done this mod but no official write up and someone else chimed in to Google "3.8L electric fan"...I did find the web site that JJ BIG SHOE had linked, in fact that is exactly the site that i used... JJ i have really though about that Diode, i just finished the job to get some play time with it and seriously dred the local Radio shack...the fact that they make commission makes them dummies about anything small that won't pay them??!! Did you put that diode in and where did you find it (or how did you find it)??? Vengeful, this mod is even hotter than swapping the coolant temp sensor...my truck has really felt awesome without that d**n fan killing the horseys!!! :cool2: If you want I'll get a blow by blow and maybe we should ask to get this pinned...this is almost a necessary swap..IMHO. :contract: tonight i am going to run the high side of the fan to a separate switch and 2 30 amp relays just so i can kick it on when i want to.

So over the last week I gathered the things necessary to make this swap as I had read Mr Jim did this and a couple others here and there... -->Ford 3.8L V6 electric fan --->Hayden fan control (the variable one with the 40/50 amp relay) ----> 12 gauge wire, butt connectors, and fuse holder ----->weather stripping for around fan ------->transmission cooler mount kit --------> patience I accomplished the swap in about 3.5 Hours, I added a whole other switch for the fans high side running the thermostat to the low side. I used 2 30 amp Bosch relays to run the high side with a lighted switch, and 12 gauge wire to each of the fans hot/high side. I grounded the fans ground right back to the battery via 8 gauge ground cable. The AC remote turn on was wired across the truck from the fuse box to the main relay box. Immediately I notice that the truck is much much peppier (peppy'r?), this is how i wanted the truck to be from the start without the CAI and loss of propeller fan. Anyway, I have yet to actually use the high side of the fan since the low side has cooled the truck with ease. I set it on a fairly low degree setting so it does run a lot, in fact, the truck has never got above the midway of the temp gauge (never did). I ran the ignition wire from the thermostat (remote turn on/yellow) right to the power source making the fan run until the temp is acceptable even when the truck is off. So far this has not caused any issues....then again i do have a deep cycle Dekka This mod did make a small mess (anit-freeze) and caused a little swearing removing the old fan and shroud, but was well worth the effort...i will post and MPG increase if they occur; for now low end pick up is awesome so the mileage is justified!!! I must admit that i am concerned about the fans longevity, if this fan dies or consumes its own wiring than i now have no fan cooling the engine and being that it is not Nissan OEM i must question its durability. The fan control was cheapest by $26 at Autozone ($36) compared to Advanced Auto ($62) :eek: I can get the part # if anyone is interested!! -bounce- Hooray for the newly invigorated 3.3 -bounce-

The 1st is the best 3.3 (but it is a short block and no ecu), the 2nd is a direct swap, the third is another 3.3...it is also a company that i have delt with and trust. Another way to look for an engine would be on carpart.com...they give many many different engine locations and some with miles!!! Good luck, Godspeed #1 #2 #3