02silverpathy

Custom is sweet!!! My best friend and I built this custom box and ported it for a square Kicker 15....I really wonder myself how it would sound sealed. ANYBODY WITH A SEALED BOX.....tell me how it sounds in your Rig!!! PM me whatever, I want info please! My box goes just higher than the cargo glass also...a revised box would sit lower and fit tighter against the back seat so I can use my cargo cover...but this box is sweet for now!!

To add to this, (cause i think that the TB cleaning will totally work) My truck when it is cold out likes to bounce RPMs... ...what i mean is if she is idling at 1000 (still cold) and I just nudge the pedal quick it will go up to say 2200 on the nudge fall back down under the 1000 it was at and quickly recover almost sounding like i "ralphed" it and demanded it go back up...if you really stab the pedal to like 3000, it will have to correct itself 3 times....going vroom vroom vrooooooooooom the third vroom being back to that 1000 rpm. It will do this until it is at full operating temp, then you can no longer get it to do this extra revving....what the "H" is that??? I have a clean TB, a new coolant temp sensor, 2 new O2 sensors, and new plugs and wires (all less than 7K, w/TB clean as of sept)??? Anybody elses truck do that?? It has done it from the day I got it (October 2004), but i figured with the gradual tune up :Magic: that this hick-up would go away.

Great set of pics you got there SNOSNK! When did you say you were mass marketing that bumper?? I couldn't find the thread! thanks for pointing out the bolts...I am able to pick up my new spacers today and should get them on this weekend ( -bounce- ), I will post some pics and get prices for everybody interested. Since reading about your pathy...I have decided to put the Rocky Road spacers on with the new ones to get just over 1" of lift. I do have the Warn Hubs going on the truck also this weekend, so I am not terribly worried about the angle...but heck it isn't too hard of a swap anyway for the axle!!

hummm good to know thanks for posting Geeky!!

I enjoy my sylvania silver star lights in my factory fogs, but now i want brighter lights all together...I am thinking about swapping in piaa 85w lights into the factory housing...I have also looked at the ION Yellow lights they offer but they are a lesser wattage....any thoughts?? Does anyone have the yellow lights in their factory fogs? Also how do you have them aimed? Mine are just under the factory headlight beam...is this correct? ...i have already put the fogs on their own relay and circuit. I have looked at some Piaa for the front luggage bar on the truck but they are out of my price range for right now...sooooo what do you think?? Thanks guys!

So i read this and look all the time at the JDM motors...sometimes i think that it may be cheaper to have buddies come swap me a motor into the truck(having done t-belt and all outside of truck)then it would be to pay someone to do t-belt seals and pump........ .......the question is, with the JDM are the emissions equip any different?? 88's right that the intake is different. My crx motor came with 0 emissions equip, well, other than a PCV valve and a charcoal canister.

SNOSNK...what made you decide to shoot your new bolts down instead of up? Is there an advantage? I hope to be installing mine this week and wondered what you were thinking on that....and I will have to enlarge my holes to to mount the spacers. ..............oops wait a min. did you put them down because they are a B**** to stuff up? That would be a simply answer wouldn't it?? Sorry I wasn't thinking

They were unfinished this past Friday, I will call them on Monday morning...when I get them I will get pics up as well as I am trying to get pics with the 3/4", and then the 3/4" plus the RRO 5/16" together... I live in Maryland. Price??? well I don't exactly know yet, I just knew that I wanted taller spacers than what I was mailed already!!

I used a car stereo amplifier kit with 8 ga wire and a distibution block. I ran the fused power cable from the battery, through the firewall where my clutch pedal would have been and inside the center console where I made it pop out by the driver side chair rail. This is where the distibution block is, so that I could divide and fuse each seat. the power runs back under the console to get to the pass. seat. I used one of the chairs bolts for the ground for each. For the heated part, I used the factory switches and (from the same distribution block) powered the switches. I simply fed the switch and matched wire colors up to that from the seats. I figured that if the factory used such small wire to heat the seats, there was a purpose...like resistance!! The heaters are a dead short, so maybe that is why they picked the size wire they did! You will notice that the switches are both different..one sits in a white housing and one in a blue housing...............white (drivers) and blue (passenger), they cannot be swapped or you won't see the wire colors line up with the seats! If you have any other questions PM me, just remember that my seats heaters are beat so I hope that yours work great!! It shouldn't be hard to switch the heatin elements just time consuming and also you have to pick which element to spend the $$$ on!!

I did this to my XE...what a sweet upgrade!! My only downer was that my heat didn't work so I have to get new seat heaters to put in. I did go find oem switches to put in. I just ran a seperate circut for the seats on a heavy grade wire so that they could draw whatever current they wanted.

gotcha....I am having a 3/4" spacer made for me, I should have it Friday...I am unsure wether or not I will use the 1/4" Rocky-Road spacer and the custom 3/4" spacer together or not, but these guys can make larger spacers if you are interested!

so is there anywhere else that the vg33e is prone to leaking?? I have a decent leak that hits the bottom of the alt. (on one of the bolts holding it to the engine) and about same spot on the other side also. It does not show on the dip stick but after a good power wash it returns down below the diff and try's to drip off the frame in about 3500 miles. Unfort. the other day when I was busy spinning on a fresh Napa Gold, I got dripped on by some antifreeze....where in the "H" could that have came from?? My poor pathy has 94K on it, and as soon as I sell my REX I am putting a good chunk of it into the T-Belt and other normal maint goodies.

Here man, Check out this thread Rant. On Monday (12/5/5) I am going to have either 3/4" or 1" spacers fabbed by a local metal working company...I will keep everybody posted...at least those that don't want a monster lift just an enhancement and a level ride!!!

BUMP! Anyone at all??? ---->use grease in their gauges to make them stop acting silly?

Ouch! Damn, I hope that my 98 stands upright like that...that truck clearly took a beating and the damaged stayed localized...gotta love old steel!!! Glad all is well with the daughter, LOL about PRECISE's GRUMPY comment. I too would say get your girl (truck) back and fix'er up!!!

Those trim packers for the Pathy's are a rip off....TOGETHER they measure 9/16"....I really thought that I was ordering 9/16 for each side. I was way too excited to get these too have them turn out at about 4/16 a side...hardly worth tearing the truck apart for. This has really just been a terrible experience for me. As your may have read in my other rant I sent away for my OME complete lift including spacers having been told that I would see them by the end of the week. It took a complete 7 days to get them not 3, so that sucked. I thought shipping was free but I paid $83 to have them shipped to me. When I recieve my package...no spacers. Within 1 day I am on the phone hearing that they must have forgot to put them in my box and they will have them mailed out. Turns out 7 days later that they hadn't been made yet and that they were being finished then powder coated and shipped. I requested fast shipping since i had already waited 2 weeks to get this far and now I was hearing another week to finish and ship with the Thanksgiving holiday. I paypal'd the order that I made on NOVEMBER 1. I recieved my spacers on DEC 1. Now then, I am working on the truck today and tomorrow, I have bought th 2" grade 8 bolts to install with my spacers but had to use 7/16" since no one around here had the exact match to factory size (which i found to be M10 X 1.25) During my travels to find grade 8 bolts in my town I picked up some steel spacers that are 1/2". They would go over the bolts and then through the strut tower, not sure if that is a good idea, but I was unable to crush them vertically using a bench vice and my 200lbs of lard pulling and pushing on it. If i do laymans math...4ooolb truck / 4 corners = 1000lb a corner..../ 3 bolts on the strut assembly that = 333.3 lbs.....does this sound fair for the amount of pressure that each spacer would have to withstand all the time?? SNOSNK what did you mean when you talked about the shearing strength??

Would the tranny cooler being clogged on the older one have anything to do with it? I put an additional tranny cooler on mine and i would have to say that my truck (1998) behave more closely to your firends. it does drop into 3rd, but it will make an effort in 4th first. The only other thing that i could point at would be the vacuum line to the cruise control...this is what is holding the truck at that speed so maybe you have a leaky line to the throttle body??

I think that this rear guard looks way better than the bike rack or whatever people stick on the back of their vehicles, so that justifies it for me, besides I like the look of mine...it really de tracts from the mall monster look. anyhow, how would that cause more damage to my vehicle?? I mean if someone backs into my truck that wonderful plastic bumper is F'd along with the paper thin steel that is underneath, thus allowing the rear hatch to be comprimised. The only conciveable damage i could see is that the rear under frame may be damaged but i still see that as being a cheaper fix that the hatch door??

Check it out!!! KMQAR99 asked me about this so here is a great link...sorry now that I bought a used one and only save $19!!! Waagedy Waag After posing this in 96+ R50's I think maybe this should have been in the general since you could get the tail light gaurd for the 1st gen also at a sweet price!!!

Had to buy 2 to get a pair...I asked the same questions over the phone before i ordered!

Agreed, sway bar bushings or the end links themselves

I found this short story very comforting, I noticed how easily i could insert my life into this sitaution and feel the out come on its way, smoothly written very detailed i would give it 2 thumbs up!! Spiders usually find a crispy death around me...the old brake cleaner and lighter usually get me to over my frustrastions..i feel much better knowing that bright 3 ft flame meant i was still the biggest (and smartest...HA) animal in the garage. precise one you are all to right about the "yeah right" can't stand the idea that I too make the car payments and insurance payments on all the cars and somehow the lack of respect for effort is un-measureable...i do know that if you have the little women call around for a brake job estimates including rotors and pads with labor this keeps her quiet on many topics!!!

wow i paid $83 to get my stuff shipped to me...that sucked too then i guess..right now to stand next to my truck the rear is noticably higher than the rear...it does look like it is supposed to get a heavy bumper (TJM, ARB) on the back to level out.

dude that's horrible news :sniff: ...give us the story...man that is the worst thing in the world . i know that i work hard for my toys so for anyone to just get them would really destroy me with anger :furious: and pain....brother I feel for you :sniff: ..good luck getting her back I wish all the best. :bow: where do you live?