02silverpathy

Aww she's growing up?! Her tires just make it for MD piggies! I am allowed 1/4" outside of any fender flare as long as it is not considered tread (that makes it sidewall).

another from the back...that's just how I likes it! can you say "I'm in love with a finder (stripper)"

wide rear--look at dat a**!

Alright back from near death...posted pics if the wheel adapters (since the silly spacers just weren't far enough away!). These are more billet aluminum with their own studs...so they bolt up like wheels and then bolt your wheels to them!

PM'd!

XPLORx4, On the pass side (the more loose side) I just put a new ball joint and replaced the little stud plate also. I used all of the necessary torq specs in my Haynes...for the strut itself I tightend those bolts to just over 100 ft/lbs but they could go up to 120 I think. I get what your saying about the enlargened bolt holes, I will have to get a 2nd person to shake it while look at it. I am going in for an alignment soon (tomorrow I hope), and will ask him to also check me out...I just hope it is something simple since the other balljoint apparently has to replace that whole arm!! I will keep updated on this topic since I think it is very important. For everyone that is not familiar...if you lose a ball joint you will lose your rim and tie rod and bumper, fender, door, truck life (no seat belt) ...depending on speed. My local Nissan Dealer Parts manager told me some stories of F'd up trucks from this very thing...but this is relativel few and far between!!

I hope to stay on topic with this but how does one spot a bad ball joint on a uni body??? I had my pass side wheel seem to rock (when in park, hubs unlocked) rockable from top side out...the whole assembly brakes and all moves...the driver side seems tight....so after 3 hrs of work I replaced the pass side ball joint and the little stud plate also (since I stripped it and the ball joint nut)..............the dang thing feels the same!! So whats up and is this what is causing my wheel to wobble at certain speeds like between 45-55????

Totally agree, I have ssen pathys that look lifted and are not, but when you gt up on them with a lift the difference shows up quick then!! Disagree with the 1/4" spacer ditch the crap and get some made and get about 1" or greater like 1.5"...with Warn's of course. You can definately bolt 2 together I did bolt my Rocky Road trim spacers and my 3/4" spacers together to get that 1"....I used grade 8 hardware all the way around so it will probably snap and not bend first but, the area in the strut towers sees more turning than flex....Ihope that somone more skilled in off roading like VENGE or XPLORx4 chimes in. Venge had his uni body tear a little so I would think he has a strong idea of how much flex goes on there!! HELP!!!! :help:

Got'm love 'm -bounce- Check the "Which Suspension Lift Package" thread But what would be a REAL test for them to see their damping??

I am running all EMU and couldn't be happier. I can't imagine being able to get any more control out of the truck itself. The "wow" and "Flutter" if you will is amazing, taking those 25 mph off/on ramps at 40+ is amazing. The spacers were custom made local and the want a ton to make them...they are 3/4 inch plate steel...retail $160. I should have just had them burn out a set of 1" instead of using theirs plus the trim packer. Camber alignment...that's a tough one. I did get warn hubs to shut off the cv joints...they are fun to replace pssd . I had to do one anyway just shortly after the lift as it were. I don't think that the angle is very bad, but I had saw a signifigant raise in MPG after changing the hubs. The shop that did mybrakes for inspection when I got the truck jammed the entire assembly on....too damn tight. When you put on new bearing seals in the back of the rotor and bearing assembly you are to torq the whole thing down to like 70 ft/lbs then back it off and hand tighten...they missed the second half of this so there was gobs of resistance up front. By changing the hubs, rotors, bearing seals, grease, and installing all of this the correct way, my wheels spin many fold easier than they did. This allowed me to see that 14-16 in town and increase to 19 highway. Since I bought my 265/75/16 REVO's I have seen a drop in economy but that is yet to be completely measured. This week I m replacing a ball joint on the pass. side then next week it is going for an alignment. I will ask my guy specifically what he thinks of the camber issue.

Incidentally mine leaks good and does not lose any during an oil change interval either (usually around 4500mi) and I am very proud of the truck for that!!

I have a leak that is coming right out of the belt cover also and it is very steady!!! I am gearing up for the TB change now!! at 96K since my alty can only put up with so much oil running over it...this would make sense because there is a TSB on the passenger side seal....not that you shop did't replace it but maybe they had a hard time with it??

Though I am inacordance with the 21.? gal I thought that I actually read that the light comes on with 2 gals left...but my personal experience when the light is on and stays on (meaning it doesn't shut off in turns or whatever) it has the 2.5-2.8 maybe even 3 gallons left.

Dude I have some that I cannot use--I have two of the KYB strut bearings...I'' sell the pair to you for $25 plus shipping! Let me know if you wan t them!!

oohhh, thats no good. I was going to say cam seals but they should have been swapped. Check the oil pan gasket after you clean her up...mine has a small leak but I am not ready as a mech. to drop the front diff to swa[ that!!!

That bumper is Hott to death....SNOSNAKE where are you!!! Please post us some measurements!!! Did I mention that we love you!!!

WoW no bumper is an instant 2 inch body lift LoL!!!

Either way I would buy a big plastic drop cloth that can cover all the ground under the truck...this keeps moisture from rising up out of the ground to your vehicle...Honda's and Nissans love to rust so block what you can with the plastic!! Def fresh oil and full tank with stabil...battery..yup that too, wax indeed..you guys are good at this...My honda would be happy at any of your homes!!! ...sunshade...good idea!! ....sup with the dryer sheetz? or do they go inside?

Yeah, the thread pitch was right! I was using the hubcentric lugs that reach like8-10 threads deeper than the OEM so that my .25" wheel spacer wasn't going to keep the wheel from being tightened on. Upon removal...a couple did not want to come off...when they did they and my studs looked like hell! I put on 1.25" adapters but was concerned about the # of working studs/lugs so I left her sit last night and took the Honda (that is selling on eBay right now!). Chrome don't get ya home!! LOL, that's very cute!!

Maybe a lame question but.... I have stripped 2 of my studs on one of the front wheels messing with some generic/expensive wheel lug nuts...I have 4 functioning nuts that are working fine and torq'd to 92 ft/lbs. Is this unsafe to drive on untill I can pull the front hubs off and replace the studs?? p.s........the Gorilla lug nuts are crap...they will go on crooked and then strip your sh** coming back off!!! LEAVE THIS BRAND ALONE!!!! And incidentally I do not use air to put my lugs on as I relish my Chrome... sssh look at my avatar!!

To add to this...I have the OME lift which vengeful spoke about above/\ /\ /\ /\ /\, and it is about 1/75 in the rear and .75" in the front...I had to used monsterous spacers in addition to Warn manual hubs to get the overall height out of the lift and not damage the front CV's The total spacer height is just about 1" so overall I got 1.75" lift and then add bigger tires after my bought with the 265/70/16 I would suggest getting the 265/70/16 or equiv to get a little more height without going through extreme work!

I got some on my tint and rubbed it off with a soft cloth (no solvents ) and it caused no problem. ...if you don't get it all off the tint you will see the smudge anyway. ...I don't think that is poses any threat to the tint glue even if it is off the shelf tint from a parts store. .............PS way to use the search function!!

With hotter cams I want to keep the engine as cool as possible from the new bigger booms that the cams will make. Any help is going to be good for the truck, plus a cooler engine produces more power while a hotter one is more efficient....our trucks were never that so lets go for more power!! -bounce-

Do these also work for the R50?? Stupid question maybe but better sure than ordered wrong!!

Does anyone know for sure if the S/C X's t-stat fits in the 3.3l R50?? I read on another board that someone did this/or was going to, on their truck...my 100K maint is being ordered....... :secret: along with the JWT S1 cams and new lifters!!