02silverpathy

The assistant!

ECU pin outs

Where ECU is located (E)

More of instal manual

Hello out there I put a new EVAP canister and vent valve on yesturday....the truck no longer stalls!! I had no charcoal leak, and my connector (electrical) was busted up a bit--so it made very poor contact. In fact, I did not have to release the clip to get it off---it just slid off. After snapping 2 of the three install bolts, I zip-tied it back up and tightly wound electrical tape around the connector and the truck has accepted the new parts well. Then engine still makes lifter noise with the cams, and occasionally sputters (cams vs ecu) but it no longer has that incredibly shaky idle nor stalls at stops. That is one serious vacumm leak/problem in that d*** box. Wish I had changed this thing long ago, very easy and the truck is happy. Soon I will re-time the truck and instal the SUPER A F C (announced with hero voice). The vehicle that is most like ours in the manual is the ELGRAND...what the H is that? (Mexi-can Pathy?) It carried the same engine code and has listed the same place for the ecu. Anyhow much more, later.

WoW!

another

Next pic

Howdy -bounce- Here are some pics of my ride...the spacers are adapters and the are 1.5", with the second set of lugs..same pattern. I will have to do research to see what the backspacing on the wheels are since they are old and I got them used. They are circa 1996 Concept Neeper Synchros (4WD), with Bridgestone AT REVO's 265/75/16...I have rubbing but is is all splash shield, that I have ben too lazy to finish trimming...I would have to say that trimming is somewhere between light and moderate, but not extreme...just sort of brake ducting!! Lol

The truck does report lean when hot, will my SAFC take care of that?? I am hoping that it will run smoother...those intermittant stalls are trying to get me in an accident! :o ******I recieved my SAFC today---2 days early! I may have to change my opinion about DHL....then again the company I work for bought them so maybe...just maybe they will improve!************* That would explain also why the 93 makes it happy..a little more bang at low RPMs??

To answer 98path, My consumption sucked before (Stock XE) and sucks now lift, tires, chrome, e-fan, intake, exhaust, cams. I really can't call the current MPG since the truck and I are still battling it out. I think that there is another problem that I am just unable to figure out. To answer XPLORx4 When the truck comes to a stop (full stop) the RPM's dip nearly to 0 and it even stalls on occasion. I am not sure if I have a bad Dizzy or not. When it gets really hot (engine and outside temp) it seems to missfire...which has greatly lessened since the new knock sensor. I believe that my timing is off pretty far and that perhaps other components of the heads are worn. I think that if I had to reccomend doing the cams I would say just get the valve springs and retainers (and seals) along with the lifters and cams.....this is an entire head job. The noise that the truck makes is more quiet now with the knock sensor, however sounds like the springs are to weak to press the lifters down firmly on the cam lobes. The sound makes you think that the lifters are being pushed up by the cam and slapped back down on the cam after the lobe has passed instead of riding closely. I have an SAFC coming (8/9/6) and will update as I am dying to tune all of this in, but first I am going to replace my EVAP vent and canister--and blow the lines, clean my TB again, and stick the ECU in test mode and set the timing appropriately. Then I will install the SAFC and try making adjustments. The path runs very strong on the road. It feels like the 235/70/15 are on it with the intake and exhaust...it really uses no effort to move the oversized tires and in fact produces enough torque that it needs to shift out of lock up much less!! Please remember that I have an XE with the smaller ratio rear (or higher? however thats said?), as I know that XPLOx4 has had that upgraded. Incidentally I have found a place tha has them and they want $650 for the front and rear 4.63:1 set. The problems are all at idle (noise, shimmy, rpm fluctuation) making me think that the timing is just too low for the ECU to adjust without skying the rpms. Believe it or not I have not yet given up on the truck at all, despite checking out that new FJ Crusier! I really love the Pathfinder and think that it deserves this respect being the true b*tch of the Nissans Pathfinder world. ----------> one more thing, right now it really digs 93 Octane and runs the smoothest and quietest on this fuel <------------------------------------------

OK my techy friends, please tell me how all those components get extra wear from spacing the wheel and tire out further. I have 1.5" adapter/spacers on my truck OME lift with about 2" spacer 265/75/16 REVO's Warn Hubs I have drawn a pic, stared at the set up, and had the rim off and can't figure the wear. Am I only thinking 2 dimensionally? As I can't picture all the articulation and movement in my head. Hook me up!? Please

I have seen this on a parts sheet before. I think that they are just little motors that turn the adjustable shocks to the left or the right based on firm or comfort. Just have someone sit in the truck and push the button and feel the top of the strut towers to see if the mechanical part is working. Pics would be sweet of the top of your towers for everybody to see!

Hooray! I got the truck back! That's about the end of the good stuff... My truck will never go to anyone else ever again...I reassured her last night this would be the case! :secret: The truck runs like a bat out of haydes, idles terrible (still after a new knock sensor), clacks like train cars passing by, but only used 1/8th of a tank of gas over approx 50 miles and at speeds over 70 MPH...it only needs to get out of lock up for large hills on the interstate! Have I ever mentioned how heavy the Bridgestones are?? None the less, the only interesting news is that I bought a timing lingt to get her happy again (soon?), and that on 93 octane she runs very happy---this hopefully means that when I score the SAFC she will tune up good! Other than that nothing has really changed and I may end up getting new springs, retainers and lifters and rebuilding myself..........or I will buy, depending on the price of these parts, rebuilt heads and install the cams in those, knowing that all is well???? MY 1st move will actually be to call JWT on Monday and see what they think first...provided I can get the time of day, since when I bought the $500+ cams I was shuffled through snot about my credit card # and when they would mail them and thanks have a nice screwing---I mean day! INPUT IS STILL MORE THAN WELCOME and --TURBOPATH-- I am trying to get the SAFC and have located a dyno that will tune it in for me!

TONS! No, but really the E-Fan is great and I still erccommend having the low side on the thermostat and the high side of the fan a switch manual at your convience. The cams are giving me a fit, I really think that I should have done this myself despite having never done anything like that before, only because I would have been more cautious (therefore correct) about the install. I think now that I may have to get another set of lifters for the pass side head and I will end up getting new OEM springs, retainers, and valve seals just becasue they are so noisy. I just think that this was a bad call on part all the way around. When adding after market parts people (myself included) need to stop thinking that parts are just like legos on the engine. You can't just stack sheit on the motor and expect. I know in my own mind that I should have bought new springs/retainers and seals ahead of time but was too cheap (after the outlay I already made) and likewise for the knock sensor...now it costs me more to go back and time is wasted now also. The only other fault in the truck at the moment is perhaps another end-link going bad...I have a miserable clunk in the front driver side that pops/clunks over small hills and bumps. It could be a ball joint warning me or just a bad end link. It was just at the alignement shop and that dued would have caught a bad ball so end link me think! This is related to the lift since my ends are only 3 yrs old. ...oh and the driverside OEM axle is finally tearing at the boot. No biggie thats a fun exercise!!??

Liny-Dink

Intake/Exhaust, Electric Fan, Cams, Hubs. My truck screams---the guys at the local Nissan Dealership (2 of them anyhow) drove my truck for test runs and both were wide eyed at how quick it was...with 32's!! It is possible in the future that I will get a second set of heads, and have them ported and polished with at least a 3 angle valve job also. If I get extreme then I might even hunt down some titanium springs and retainers and try to reduce some of the heads weight...after all I see one company on eBay sells rebuilt heads for 250 plushipping for the vg33e.

Hey Hey Hey , I am still alive and kicking...the truck is making its return from a long 10 week bout with multiple problems...Monday 7/17 I will soon see what is really left to fix. It has just had its cam seal (pass side) and T-belt done for the 2nd time as the cam seal was incorrectly installed and leaked like Hell!! While being re belted I bought the knock sensor that was "intermittant at best" and new intake manny gaskets (2nd time also). The garage that f'd things up the first time caused me to leave my girl with the stealership for diagnostics, and tripped back down again to get the dreaded re-belt has decided for my grief that they were going to find me a new front pulley/accesory mount. This is the black mount part that sticks on top of the timing belt cover. After several belt changes (accessory) and alty installs the alty tensioner would not set right in its mount point, so they actually went to a boneyard and found me a replacement part in the dutyful re-installation!! The deal is if she comes back still wounded, I....yes I.... am going to get new springs and retainers, new lifters (again) and valve seals and I am going to tear into the heads myself. In addition to that I am taking TURBOPATH's advice and getting an air/fuel controller and getting this thing to stop leaning out---this pathfinder will either rise again or blow to sin!!! DERNT...thanks a mil for asking...sometimes it seems like people forget you like that bug the windshield wiper just washed off!! Not to say that there hasn't been support and a couple of you have mailed asking if I was alive! Thanks all! Much love! (98)

Just add chrome bulbs or LED's and get the whole lense clear!! Led's are my fav and the all clear lense is classy!

I am partial to the QX4's!

You guys are always on top... I am getting the truck back today from Nissan with all the codes they could pull. The service has been all A++. Unfort., the guy looking at the truck really wanted to solve all problems himself, but will have to wait. I am going to spray the carb cleaner around the gaskets and see what happens. Tomorrow, the truck is going back to the first mech, who is reticent about his performance, and getting a new belt, cam seals ( and crank seal this time), and I will have him put my knock sensor in also, thus giving him the chance to swap gaskets again on the intake manny. I actually feel confident that he will do all of this right as per our conversation he is quite sorry for the slip up, of course he is looking forward to doing the knock sensor and getting paid for it. I must say that his labor for the 100K maint (belt, ten., hoses, drive belts) plus cams, head gaskets, valve covers, intake manny gaskets was less than $700. He is a quality mech, I know of several cars with over 200K that have only been serviced by him. I guess the Pathy was destined.

***Update*** ~~~The oil leak, that is very intense, is from the cam and crank seals that I just had replaced. They have leaked over the entire timing belt and now the seals and the belt need replaced again. ~~~The knock sensor in the truck is bad, alowing the engine to respond slowly or not at all to knocks in idle characteristics of the truck. ~~~The knock sensor would also cure the intake manifold leak that I think I have, sense you have to remove these manifold s to egt to the knock sensor. As usual guys, any input is appreciated as we can al learn from a mistake that I am paying for!!

XPLORx4 I love you for respnding brother, but those are new also---with the grommets for the screw type bolt!!

:o :o :o This truck is trying to die...I swear it! I have changed the plugs/wires/cap/rotor and played havock with myself about the timing..... the truck still reports that there is a random missfire, does anyone else have any suggestions before I leave her at the stealership?? I am under the impression that there are only a few causes for this: Plug/wires/etc EGR Vacuum Leak --I lean towards the vac leak since the intake manny was off but I am seriously hurting for any type of info. In addition to that, the oil leak from long ago is now really bad...it is not the oil pan gasket but it cometh from just above the alternator mount points (from what I can see). The truck is currently running in limp mode or something and refuses to break 45 mph, yes it still does have that extra loud lifter noise under 1K rpms...I feel as though I am losing this battle if I have ever asked now is the reall real time ... H E L P

Can I send anyone a sound clip to their email of my truck? I am desparate for help before visiting the locals to tear my truck up and my wallet!! Thanks again to all that respond in my time of need!!