02silverpathy

nah...I have only gone through a couple of corn fields...the angle isn't terrible but I cansee how it would wear them out faster...I guess what I mean is I have seen way worse angles on many other trucks. the side to side well I am still wondering about that but I torq'd down those grade 8's to about 70 ft/lbs to ensure that I may break a bolt first rather than just have the set up lean over..but I really don't think that will happen anyway....kinda funny how that set up in the strut tower looks like Nissan though we should throw spacers in there huh?? *******Calling Nick1716 to the thread about offroading with spacers!!**********

I don't know...the shop I had it done at had a great press...he showed me around a little and told me that in some cases like my buddies BMW it was more cost/labor effective to buy new arms then to spend 30-40 mins trying to press in the bushing due to style and shape and all that of the arm and bushing....they may just have an inadequate staff/press??

well, one thing is for sure...wheels and tires make all the diff in the world!!! I am getting new tires and in the process am selling my old ones...Cooper Discoverer AST II's 255/70/16 w/about 10K on them ($200) and they were mad heavy next to the stock XE 15's w/ 235/75/15...yikes poor pathy and I make it throw those around all the time!!! After removing my 16" chrome to pop off the tires i realized that I hate my stockers...mainly because they are only 6" wide!!

Indeed good crash info just sucks you had to give it!! I know that days after the accident is always the worst..I might even be the Charlie Brown of accidents!!! Pain and the damage to the vehicle goes away...I am more than happy that you are going to be ok!!! I don't mean to question but...(i will anyway) can you get a 4-wheel alignment for our year path?? I thought that there was no adjustment in the rear?

Is the trailing arm the bar underneath the truck that is visable from the side? about 10-12 inches in front of the rear tires? If that is the "trailing arm" then I gots a problem...since I had those bushings replaced the truck still has that second clunk after stopping when the suspension rocks back and when moving forward from "0". I find that if you stop the truck in neutral, there is no clunk.....this should mean that it is in the drive-line somewhere right?? anyone else w/this

I too have CD rotors..which are a no name brand...well the seller will tell you that they are. I do a good mix of in town and HWY driving and I am hard on my truck when it comes to brakes. Cheap Cross Drilled For just over 1000 miles on the truck the rotors have held up well...I did purposely check the brakes fade on the interstate from just over 80 down to just under 40 and no brake fade....I just need now to get my steel lines on and flush the system. I want to know more about the pads that are stopping the best though...my Autozone midgrades suck I think. ..............bearing repack!!! The shop that did my brakes the first time must have used an impact to put the hub lock nut back on...they were tight...too tight. I followed the instructions to seat the new gasket then backed off. For those that have to do this, know that you have to line the little set screws back up to screw them into the lock nut....after repacking and regreaseing and manual hubs...my truck has really gotten better mileage. This is mainly because if you over tighten the lock nut then you are squeezing the whole assembly tight and it can't spin easy. I have no quote on the MPG as I gave up on trying to really save more MPG plus I just haven't been filling the tank all the way up!!! I have a tank now that has gotten a beating withmy style driving and is still producing more miles per tank that I have seen in a long time...make me wonder just how high I can get and just how damn tight the shop had that bearing lock nut!!!

So after reading both responses (thank both of you), should I then go with the 114S rated tire?? I must admit that I do drive my pathy in the 80's so I don't want the speed and the load restrictions of the tire to be forced out of round..does that sound right according to the response by FLEXING01LE??

We all like what we have and that is good, real good, especially since they don't make ours anymore!! It is only natural to resist change...heck there is an R50 member that has one super tough rig (XPLORx4)...and the R50 is still a mall crawler.........despite having been (w/the new 3.5) the fastest suv out for some time. Point I am making is I loved/still love the older WD's and that includes the Hardbody's...I love my R50 now...I think it is a great blend of class and tough.......................the bad sides??? WD = handsome exterior/ugly interiors (until 94 or 95 IMHO) R50 = uni-crappy (other than the super smooth ride I get it leaves me at a disadvantage to lifting and what not) Current pathy = Too much plastic and gas hog still! I think that if Nissan gave us all that new pathy to check out we would love it or beat it to death unless we die trying!!! seems to me that it takes about 9 yrs for Nissan to give in to a "whole" new pathy WD (87-95) R50 (96-04) Newby (05-13) hang tight guys the Nissan CUBE will come over and that will kill the element comparison!!

I know that we always get the dreaded what is the best tire? :secret: -- and -- what size can I ....? :secret: My question is what's up with the Load ratings..I read on tire racks' web site all about them...but what ratings do I want if I am planning to go off road?? I seems as if I want the C load rating, but dag they are much more expensive!!! I am going with the Bridgestone Deuler AT Revo's in a 265/75/16 checking tire rack... a load rating of 114 is $125 a tire a load rating of "C" is $152 a tire so please out ther fill me in!!! :bow: Link to TR load range page

You got it Quismo!! They are Wal-Mart specials!!! I got a lot of locals picking on me...but it is sooo much easier to see through all my tint with those lil guys...I think shhh would be funny if I mounted so Hella 500's back there!!!

cams are like 5 big ones and I would have to say if he has any miles on the truck that he will want new valve springs and lifters too...all said with free labor about $750 would you guys agree that you would probably want to have new springs, retainers, seats, lifters, keepers, and seals??? Or am I over doing it? I thought if you were putting in new cams with larger lobes you would want to make sure that you valves were riding close and not floating.

used this like curse words on my 3.1l chevy corsica...loved it...i really don't think it sped up the age process either...my pop was a machinest for 26 years and said that it is really good for higher mileage engines....the corsica ran strong through 120K miles...bu t there were just too many leaky gaskets! it really just raises the oils ability to coat and to stay bonded...for a period of time longer that it usually would.

I got the rear bumper and I don't think that there is any difference in the R50 rears...A hitch??? well, I am thinking that you would need longer bolts for the rear tow hooks so that you could bolt them both up there, but if I had my way I would try to build XPLORx4's phatty-- rear bumper/roller hitch-- thingy!! Pezzy (I don't mean to post jack) have you any pics of your front tow hooks?? I am wondering if the bolt pattern is the same..I bought a westin front light bar (for now) from your year and it fit fine on the front set of bolt holes, if it were meant to use the rear bolt holes (in the tow hook) it would not fit. any help is much appreciated... ...Guinness---if you search WAAG you should come up with a thread that I started that had a link where WAAG products were being sold new very cheap!!!

Lol, that old escort/lynx wagon is across the street...go easy, they had style at one point I think

:o boy it got hot in here fast!!

Mang, those a re some big pics.... I would also note that you may need an alignment...that front driverside tire is bald on the out side!! Heads up man, I wouldn't want a wired blow out in you new all black beauty!!

Its a shame that the alty belt also turns the water pump...does that just seem like trouble?? ps make sure you loosed the idler pulley before trying to tighten the tensioner bolt...this will keep you from snapping the bolt...........and tightening did fx all my noises!!

Does anyone here on the board have any of these cams installed??? That is the number one wuestion...and are theynot the same for the vg33e also?

What a question with great timing!!! I just did the Quest alternator swap on my pathy...now my belts screech like hell!! So maybe I need them tighter ehh? I have used plenty of belt dressing and my belts were swapped over the pas Summer!! I will try this...thanks guys!!

XPLORx4, had you though about using both of your models in a push pull situation?? this would "make" air go throught the rad. or else try the taurus fan and do the alty upgrade, use the fans high setting like JJ and I have using the high speed for "other" purposes. I to this point have only used mine to make the AC frost up quicker, and it works as far as I can tell!! I have the quest alty ready but not on...sounds like a typical swap job, but hopefully I havn't spoke out of turn!!! ****Chime in Venegeful whenever!!*************

I do have a plate style tranny cooler, and the hottest it got was 98 with nasty humidity for what that is worth!! I am using double 30 amp relays and that is on the high setting...no melt downs yet....it does kick my headlights when it turns on even on low...but I am working on Vengefuls idea right now....the quest alty that is 125 amps...this should be done this week. I have the alty and took the pulley of after it tested out mint from 2 diff auto places!! I'll keep you guys posted on that one! edit: I do change the settings from winter numbers to Summer numbers...I had the fan since like July of last year. The adj thermo is direct wired so it does run when the truck is off and I had no problems over the summer starting the truck, but for common sense reasons I bumped the fan thermo up a little since batteries are less apt to charging when they are cold!! I do have a deep cycle DEKA so that may be one reason starting was all good!

(pics were posted between commercials of Boston Legal, so if I left anything out please just post up!) Chris (98)

and last but not least 2 last pics of overall cover of the Ford Taurus 3.8L HO electric fan!

diode(s) for high speed, low speed, and ac relay's.....I agree with the like out there that this is important!!

passenger side mount again showing coverage