02silverpathy

LOL! I heard at all the dealerships on fridays in the morning they all cheer... VG33E VG33E VG33E VG33E!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hooray for advance being open till 9 pm on Sundays..I love it too!!

I bought my pathy and had to catch up quick on this same deal...check it out....the same exact code showed up on me first also, but along with knock sensor. I incidentally just bit the bullet and bought a new O2 sensor for bank 2 sensor 2, then being the dumba** that i am swaped bank 1 sensor 2 out and the code came back (sure it did you replaced the wrong one idiot!). so i bought the opposite sensor as i did the first time (that is what advance had instock) and swapped it out..........no more O2 codes. ****HINT****those d**n sensors are exactly the same and are somehow different by $10 at the counter so buy the cheaper one of the two and swap it yourself, it is really easy if you use some PB Buster on the O2 first. If you buy the BOSCH universal you will have to remove your stocky first, then cut the harness off the end and re-attach it to the universal...i say that both secondary sensors are the same--well they are, just one has a longer pig-tail than the other, but since you have to cut the factory harness anyway it is no matter, you just cut more off the harness side leaving less on the O2 side...trust me you CAN do it. as for the ripoffship that said they did it tell them about it make them pay for a new one and go that route...but just as TRIALSIN26 said, I would clear the codes and try again. I waited until the third SES to buy my first O2. for that EVAP crap, i am going to order the parts and swap that crap out, i let yuo know how it goes, and if you need ANY help on that O2--Holla Chris

Not too many questions at all!! I am sincerely glad that you responded. It has 85K Original Timing Belt As far as leak speed...well I have put only about 1500 on it in the two months i have had her and it appears not to have moved on that sweet wire dipstick..does that help? Plug in pan seems OK...leak is way high on block goes behind alternator then I can't see any further. 1500 on castrol syntec 10-30, d-i-y, oil is already about half life as far as color...i have mentioned in other posts she was an abused vehicle, so i may change her before snow hits. Leaking for some time I would say but it has made it to the bottom of that plastic skid plate and i hate vehicles that leak onto the ground..i really want to remove all the oil from the engine; any safe way to do that? i know i get it steamed but i don't know the cost versus my labor which is free, and i may even enjoy it!! both valve covers look as if tiny, tiny, i mean tiny amounts of oil are escaping but i can't picture that causing the oil slick....by the way, i have not counted out that trip to the park up my way, i just (bashfully) have no clue where it is, LOL!

Looking for an exhaust cat-back system to replace the fresh hole in my stocky...thought there was a gibson set up...now i can't find it so i was looking at the HKS, but it is pricey and apparently disco'd!!! So do we all just pick a muffler and replace pipes with that bent aluminized?? :oops:

BUMP

-study- My 98 is leaking oil at a slow rate, it appears (from underneath the truck) to be coming from the valvecover, however, upon inspection (from the top of the engine) there is no leak??!! Is this the cam seal faking me out? Is this a D-I-Y repair or head to a garage? What should be expected of a bill? lastly, any aftermarket seals?? yes yes yes too many questions , but I LOVE my pathy and hate seeing her life blood seeping out!!

Bump

O K, I am going to just order both pieces for the truck in the evap set up, but i am still getting a knock sensor code that does show up on the scanner as a primary issue...I have a multi meter and can use it I just haven't a clue where the knock sensor harness is in that mess...unfort. Nissan makes ugly engine bays.................. if you cloud PLEASE help me find the harness I would more than greatly appreciate it!! I am also thinking that my connector may need some di-electric grease, since this problem was non existant untill i got all that dealer detalers goop off my engine. As far as i can see and understand in the region for where that harness should be is only the injector harness...where can i go from there?? Thanks, Chris ps what does the "header bolt issue" sound like anyway...I do not think that my truck has any ping in it.

incidentally try to check the TSB for your 3.5, this may bring other issues to light that could be the "cause" of the "effect" that you are seeing....oil, afterall is notorious for running on object and giving you a false pretention.....ask me, i owned a chevy corsica!!!

sorry BUSANOSTRA, your thread has pointed me to somthing. my 98 is leaking oil at a slow rate, it appears (from underneath the truck) to be coming from the valvecover, however, upon inspection (from the top of the engine) there is no leak??!! Is this the cam seal faking me out? Is this a D-I-Y repair or head to a garage? What should be expected of a bill? lastly, any aftermarket seals?? yes yes yes too many questions :X , but I LOVE my pathy and hate seeing her life blood seeping out!! -study-

Much appreciated on your response...i will make an attempt to fix the evap before winter crushes me off!!! as for the knock sensor...high octane has kept the knock sensor from showing up!!

condolences :sniff:

wow man, good call! That is exactly the two codes...did you have to go to the dealer to get these parts?

Thank you very much for responding...I can't see up front what is wrong with all the evap stuff but i am going to check its ground wires today for corrosion to see if maybe passing current is an issue!

Hi all, bought all those things to make my 98 pathy a cold air hog... crawled under, removed, pulled out, ...and learned something! That big air box that is removed to make the new intake happen, holds a near critical and ingenious piece!!! ********start paying attention here!! ************* on this big*** box it has what appears to be a goosneck that reaches back up to the inner fender that actually is the stock intakes end...this "goosneck" or arm shaped piece is pop-riveted on...drill it out, now crawl back under the truck with it and hold it up to your oem air box and hole in the subframe....TA DA, its near perfect! It will require some shaving to be the correct length for the under fog light location, but with a rubber coupler it will fit well and be flexible enough to put the stock shielding back up. It also still has the bung for the stock maf sensor!! QUESTION.....all you guys that already have this or some sort working...how are you re-installing that plastic that you cut out? O---------r are you using something else to cover up for snow and mud? thatnks, enjoy!!

LMAO!!!!!!!! :bow:

in western MD zip is 21740..Hagerstown

Hi all I hate to post another possible endless drama, but my pathy has sent for the 3rd time a knock sensor code...i have been using 89 oct., and replaced quite a bit of normal maint. parts in the 880 miles i have owned her: Plugs (Bosch +2) Wires (Bosch) Cap and rotor Both secondary O2 sensors Air Filter (Fram..K&N knock off) Oil (of course) ...and last but not least that stupid heat shield was removed from the exhaust system (thinking that was a contributing factor untill i looked up the location of the knock sensor!! stupid noob! -thnkboutit- ) the exhaust manny's are tight so i can't blame them either...i am exhausted with the idea that she may need new valve guides and a trip to the ripoffship :eek: . Has anyone had an issue related? please bring your maintenance logs and pass all your wisdom.............likewise it reported that it is haveing an issue with its evap controls and auxillary emission controls :eek: :eek: :help: , Chris

Well, unfortuantely the weather of the area has foiled my plans for garbbing parts but i will be in touch for the pieces that you needed....sorry

do you want me to pick up these things for you?

I will have to go check..unfortunately i cannot remember!!! I will be going out on wednesday eve..est. I will post back what i run into.

Will that fit an R50...or is he a good salesman??

that tape i mentioned was a quarter inch wide all the way across the section of the light that actually outputs not .25 by .25...the part that outputs is easy to see it is the part that your reflector for the bulb can be seen through. the responding lit up dash is very hot!!!

I do not have any covers on my lights, but I did paint over those terrible amber lenses...I took a piece of that blue painters tape (1" wide) and measured .25", cut the tape and fixed it to the center of the amber turn lense (bumper) then proceded to spray satin black paint on the lense coat after coat until i was convinced the first bug attracted to my silverstars wasn't going to take off the black. after drying throughly i removed the blackened tape to leave a crisp orange dash across the lense. This is small enought that it is not visible from 10' but will indeed be visible when turning. ...perhaps i should add that i did get 50 watt replacement bulbs by "Blazer" from autozone, and i did replace those stock cornering/parking lamps (by the headlights) with larger orange bulbs #912, the wedge end is the same but they are much brighter, and, i think that the stock lenses are much hotter at night now blazing that orange!!! -thnkboutit-