02silverpathy

O K, I am going to just order both pieces for the truck in the evap set up, but i am still getting a knock sensor code that does show up on the scanner as a primary issue...I have a multi meter and can use it I just haven't a clue where the knock sensor harness is in that mess...unfort. Nissan makes ugly engine bays.................. if you cloud PLEASE help me find the harness I would more than greatly appreciate it!! I am also thinking that my connector may need some di-electric grease, since this problem was non existant untill i got all that dealer detalers goop off my engine. As far as i can see and understand in the region for where that harness should be is only the injector harness...where can i go from there?? Thanks, Chris ps what does the "header bolt issue" sound like anyway...I do not think that my truck has any ping in it.

incidentally try to check the TSB for your 3.5, this may bring other issues to light that could be the "cause" of the "effect" that you are seeing....oil, afterall is notorious for running on object and giving you a false pretention.....ask me, i owned a chevy corsica!!!

sorry BUSANOSTRA, your thread has pointed me to somthing. my 98 is leaking oil at a slow rate, it appears (from underneath the truck) to be coming from the valvecover, however, upon inspection (from the top of the engine) there is no leak??!! Is this the cam seal faking me out? Is this a D-I-Y repair or head to a garage? What should be expected of a bill? lastly, any aftermarket seals?? yes yes yes too many questions :X , but I LOVE my pathy and hate seeing her life blood seeping out!! -study-

Much appreciated on your response...i will make an attempt to fix the evap before winter crushes me off!!! as for the knock sensor...high octane has kept the knock sensor from showing up!!

condolences :sniff:

wow man, good call! That is exactly the two codes...did you have to go to the dealer to get these parts?

Thank you very much for responding...I can't see up front what is wrong with all the evap stuff but i am going to check its ground wires today for corrosion to see if maybe passing current is an issue!

Hi all, bought all those things to make my 98 pathy a cold air hog... crawled under, removed, pulled out, ...and learned something! That big air box that is removed to make the new intake happen, holds a near critical and ingenious piece!!! ********start paying attention here!! ************* on this big*** box it has what appears to be a goosneck that reaches back up to the inner fender that actually is the stock intakes end...this "goosneck" or arm shaped piece is pop-riveted on...drill it out, now crawl back under the truck with it and hold it up to your oem air box and hole in the subframe....TA DA, its near perfect! It will require some shaving to be the correct length for the under fog light location, but with a rubber coupler it will fit well and be flexible enough to put the stock shielding back up. It also still has the bung for the stock maf sensor!! QUESTION.....all you guys that already have this or some sort working...how are you re-installing that plastic that you cut out? O---------r are you using something else to cover up for snow and mud? thatnks, enjoy!!

LMAO!!!!!!!! :bow:

in western MD zip is 21740..Hagerstown

Hi all I hate to post another possible endless drama, but my pathy has sent for the 3rd time a knock sensor code...i have been using 89 oct., and replaced quite a bit of normal maint. parts in the 880 miles i have owned her: Plugs (Bosch +2) Wires (Bosch) Cap and rotor Both secondary O2 sensors Air Filter (Fram..K&N knock off) Oil (of course) ...and last but not least that stupid heat shield was removed from the exhaust system (thinking that was a contributing factor untill i looked up the location of the knock sensor!! stupid noob! -thnkboutit- ) the exhaust manny's are tight so i can't blame them either...i am exhausted with the idea that she may need new valve guides and a trip to the ripoffship :eek: . Has anyone had an issue related? please bring your maintenance logs and pass all your wisdom.............likewise it reported that it is haveing an issue with its evap controls and auxillary emission controls :eek: :eek: :help: , Chris

Well, unfortuantely the weather of the area has foiled my plans for garbbing parts but i will be in touch for the pieces that you needed....sorry

do you want me to pick up these things for you?

I will have to go check..unfortunately i cannot remember!!! I will be going out on wednesday eve..est. I will post back what i run into.

Will that fit an R50...or is he a good salesman??

that tape i mentioned was a quarter inch wide all the way across the section of the light that actually outputs not .25 by .25...the part that outputs is easy to see it is the part that your reflector for the bulb can be seen through. the responding lit up dash is very hot!!!

I do not have any covers on my lights, but I did paint over those terrible amber lenses...I took a piece of that blue painters tape (1" wide) and measured .25", cut the tape and fixed it to the center of the amber turn lense (bumper) then proceded to spray satin black paint on the lense coat after coat until i was convinced the first bug attracted to my silverstars wasn't going to take off the black. after drying throughly i removed the blackened tape to leave a crisp orange dash across the lense. This is small enought that it is not visible from 10' but will indeed be visible when turning. ...perhaps i should add that i did get 50 watt replacement bulbs by "Blazer" from autozone, and i did replace those stock cornering/parking lamps (by the headlights) with larger orange bulbs #912, the wedge end is the same but they are much brighter, and, i think that the stock lenses are much hotter at night now blazing that orange!!! -thnkboutit-

Wow, that IS a shame...is there anywhere to get fender flares and nerf bars that is of lower cost than bushwackers?

Seem seema who got tha keys??? Welcome...the bimmer is quite a handful to work on ehhh? I would have to guess my crx is near the finnicky tuning of the 3000gt---unless you are talking vr-4.

This is precisely bushings...maybe the pan hard, maybe the control arms...alll in all mine did the same thing and i had all 10 bushings in the back replaced (takes a big press to remove and install) and it was around $600, but i also had both front end links done at the time.

Hi guys, i posted in the service forum that i can get parts for gen 1 pathy's, i also saw 2 Xterra's with mint nerf bars....question is will they work on my r50?? thanks again, chris

My 98 xe does...a little ligth right next to the "E"

Hi guys i know that this is a topic well talked about but for my 98 pathy does the price of $124.90 a set sound correct for the warn premium hubs for my truck? Also how long of an install is this..i can't seem to find this for the R50 model through out the site..could i estimate it would take as long as repacking the hubs? And last but not least, does anyone know the correct Warn part number, so that i make sure to order it for the right truck? Thanks for being patient with a noob!! :bow:

I have 255/70/16 Cooper Discoverer AT II 's and am very happy so far. Road noise is low and from what i can tell (from carreview.com) lots of other people are happy with them too...from the small amount of off roading I have done they seem like competent tires...I know they are great in wet conditions! (url) http://www.coopertires.com/us/en/ProductDe...title=SUV+Tires

Could I possibly avoid it?? Like Tony C and the Truth say "Absolutely not!" I have already taken over some small "curb islands" in vacant parking lots and have had my eyeball on some slow to move construction areas around me sssh :secret: ....Incindentally I live in Washington County Maryland...the most eastern part of the western panhandle...its the spot that you can cross PA, MD, WV and into VA in like one hour!! Chris