02silverpathy

Am glad to see the poor mileage posted here! I can get 14-14.5 city and no better than 19.5-20 HWY being super easy on the far right pedal. There is one terrible aero feature of the truck...the wind faring on the roof of the 02-04 SE and the rear curve of the hatch is way to sharp for air to press around...no answer on a respectable looking fix yet though. **Damn it LoveMy Path--I can't stop looking at your avatar!! I think I can even hear the music**

VQ35HR--exactly! Go for a replacement out of an 04+ 350z or any G35.

advancing in like 2 degree incriments (ignition timing) should provide a difference...read your Haynes manual to do this properly.

One of our very own here had asked the question before (Arcano) on another forum to no avail. I looked at the shcoks in pics and they do look like a good match, the offset is that they would only compress so far. Arcano's question

Yup! It has more factory output. The only modification you have to perform is the pulley swap from your old Alty. You may need to grind the case of the Quest alty a bit also, when you put the Pathfinder pulley on, you will see that it needs ground very little.

Guys, super cool to know what has worked and what hasn't...but what did you think of thm, firm soft agile etc.? I still have my oem's on the rear and I think they are giving out, quite a bit of bound after large highway abutments! I want a medium firm, agile ride...which one would I chose? I recall that the Rancho's had a number out there that fit our trucks and had a longer reach than OEM too any info on a bilstein that is extended?

Hatch-glass struts? I have a similar racket in my 02 R50...and I am convinced that I need to add a little white lithium to their mounting balls...give it a whirl!

What a great thread, though I am slightly biased, it keeps beaming the VQ's durability! Is everyone here aboard the TrueDelta site?

Inside the spare tire while still mounted up on the vehicle...no other obstructions like super dark tint or crazy incense no trash in vehicle and you should be straight to drive on through ??

Fueler Fueler where for art thou Fueler? /\/\/\ This guy seems to have the braking pretty set on his truck...Xplorx4 do you still use Akebono? I am in need of rotors so sooner or later new rotors and pads....consensus is that full faced vented Brembo rotors are king here!

2002 with 60K No problems for now, I am starting to have a large (1 sec ?) hesitation in starting. Turn key, rev rev rev ____ rev start. This with the key turned forward the whole time. Battery is strong maybe starter? They look fun!

Exactly! You tried this also?! It really keeps the intake clean!

There is not enough hand space to get the current PCV out. The oe install also requires a bit of strength to remove it also. Sounds sweet on the valve covers, I just need to see if there are other options for the covers...$152+ is a lot of dough for covers (that is a piece!). We can pull your stuff, swap the PCV and add my little filter due-hickey whenever you want...PM me and we'll get a day planned! I would reccommend my place, until I buy a house I rent a massive garage...nearly 40' x 40' (38x36??).

Funny I was thinking the same thing! That is another massive amount of metal! Great pics by the way, thanks for sharing.

I searched for parts descriptions for this item, none of which say that you get valve cover grommets for spark plug tubes...they don't have pics either to show what you are getting. Just that you will get a valve cover gasket. I am under the impression that the only way to get a new plug tube grommet is to buy a new valve cover...likewise apparently the plastic/fiber valve covers warp after getting hot "X" amount of times.

Anyone, Anyone... Bueller.... Bueller....

Tthat's how I have mine mounted...it is more work when compressing springs to mount it inside but overall you are right that the strut will only stretch so far then...staying inside the CV's woking geometery. This gives a boost to the spring, keeping you tall constantly, not adding to the spring.

yeesh, mildly upsetting. I am wondering whole heartedly if this was the entire p300 code I had for my 98~~the reason I sold it. I had a new dizzy and super injector cleaning, all valve tolerence checked/re-checked and a good Nissan dealership shop checking over it....all this took place after I had JWT S1 cams installed, I am sold that this may have been the secret problem the truck had!! ...had 114K on the ODO but the 32's messed with the real mileage.

Bump...I can't let this get pushed out by another exhaust question!

So for those of you with a VQ, when cyl #5 gets oil in the spark plg galley, be prepared to buy a new valve cover! This is apprently the only fix suggested....as well as the fix for the blocked up oil passages leading to PCV failure and massive oil consumption. I do not have oil consumption problems, but I certainly have oil in the plug hole...this is the left side of the engine close to the firewall. I don't think it will be hard to change, I am interested in knowing if anyone else has tried a different method of stopping the leak. Perhaps there is a cheaper alternative than to buy $150 valve cover or "rocker assembly cover".

I think he meant that he thought it was expensive....but is that expensive in comparison to other places around you?

Crow is located in a different land...they have different factory rims....he also has the ability to own an incredible turbo patrol where he is located!!

/\ /\ /\ Dude, I feel like I owe you for hooking us up with such great test & trial info! Folks like you help make this site incredible! Thanks! **and everyone else here including Fueler

Had P300 with my 98...changed all sorts of parts...I know now that Timing (BTDC as well as a strong dizzy), and injectors (being clean) are large parts of the actual missfire situation. If you are getting a code for CKP, why not run the test procedures to see if it is faulty? edit: P300 only happened after the truck was warm for me also...and I had a wideband o2 with a SAFC II to try to catch and correct the problem...no go. In retro spect I think that the injectors were failing at higher intake temps.

Very well could be an air pocket heading toward those outter seals...that fluid will circulate back into those areas. No doubt I will want to do this in the future, hopefully before Winter comes again! -->Good call, no worries---you can always drive around FWD (4HI), with the rear drive shaft removed! **I can't wait to drive your rig** A 5 spd swap is a pain on the VQ since they have the variable length intake, or maybe you could just remove those butterflies, as the ECU could still vaccuum open them as it wanted, hmmm...