02silverpathy

Sweet! That seems easy enough...in fact maybe I shouldn't have gotten so angry and thought about it! Lol, any other ideas? I had these things off about 10 months ago when SammyB and I swapped my gears too, they were no problem then.

Hey all, I am trying to service my drum brakes before I leave for vacation (Saturday). The shoes are staying inside the drum area, they will not free themselves from the races of the drum--and I do not have the parking brake on. I even tried spraying PB Blaster on the shoes to get them to release...no good. I have beat the drum from all angles, they just won't pop loose of the drum itself. Any suggestions out there? I got one side off but had springs going everywhere dur to shear force of the shoes being ripped away from the backing plate. This was not meant to be a destructive service!

I am thinking that this needs to be stickied....in addition to somone explaining how to get the flares off carefully. I added a set to my 98, they did not bolt to the fender as mine was an XE (no flares), and in 1 year they ate a part of the driver side rear quarter!

How many degrees is each cam tooth worth? I did a timing belt in my Honda and was off 2 teeth...this is 9 degrees and I had to fry the clutch to move. After adjusting forward the 9 degrees and 4 more for fun she is a screamer...I would guess that the belt is off a few teeth on both cams.

Nice write up Lee! Welcome 02 pathy owner!

One good way to mess with the tow of the tires is to meaure the distance between the outsides the tires from the front and the outsides from behind the tires...this will show a difference if they are out of tow.

Hmm 5 speed yes! but you will need a flywheel, a clutch, pedal set and whatever to trip out the neutral safety switch...could very well be worth it though man. If you were closer dude we could really get you hooked up here. ***Check Ben Wood Auto*** I got a trans for my buddies XL7 w/t-case shipoped for $480...granted they are just north of me, but the price was flat rate IIRC.

So be it, the VQ runs over 10:1 compression...this is a lot more pressure in each cylinder the any VG exempting a forced induction model under boost. It is also a damn good thing they don't burn any oil as with under 4 qts total it would die in 5K if it burned any. I am fairly sure there are planty of VG's that developed rod knock from oil starvation and got shuttled to the JY just as any other engine. It's not like oil consumption at my rate is some "fail" factor for quality of the engine or how long it will last. Many low tech engines don't burn any oil and don't produce many HP's. If it lasts forever at that rate who cares with no power how much fun did you have? Know anybody with an old 4 cyl non turbo Mustang that just raves about performance and that it has lasted forever? ...the future is throw away engines, and vehicle recycling wether we like it or not, the only saving grace is that Nissan, Honda & Toyota have decided that theirs should be less throw away than domsetic US products.

When I first watched the video, my wife had left her itunes up and I thought that the song I heard you edited in, maybe a bit to sappy but any way it was Coldplay "Strwberry Swing" wow, made the video powerful ! ..."Everybody was for fighting Wouldn't wanna waste a thing Cold, cold water bring me round Now my feet won't touch the ground Cold, cold water what ya say? When it's such… It's such a perfect day It's such a perfect day I remember We were walking up to strawberry swing I can't wait until the morning Wouldn't wanna change a thing People moving all the time Inside a perfectly straight line..."

Extra cheers for the daughter taking in this part of Dad's life! Too Cool!

I added a filter between the pcv and the throttle body. Removed the brass colored metal line, Added rubber gas line from the pcv, added a small frosted plastic fuel filter (with filter media inside) in line, connected another small section of gas hose from the filter to the throttle body. Done! This has been sucessful at catching oil blow-by between oil changes, maybe 1 ounce? This also tells me that oil consumption is not really a PCV issue, or at least not to a large extent. I suppose when my filter starts really pick up oil it will be time for a new valve cover gasket, until then the only real issue I have is the drivers side #6 spark plug fill up with oil...this is a cause for a new valve cover...yikes @ $200!

It should work fine, the chip is only for starting the engine. If you get a remote start installed you most likely will have to give a chip key up for installation...guess where it goes? Inside the car under the dash with the alarm, so that the alarm can "verify" with the OEM anti-theft that the car can be started.

Lol @ Alexrex & 01... ...my 2002 VQ recently turned in 5000 miles between oil changes and used about 3/4 qt. My truck has 62,7xx on it and is an auto. Most of my mileage is City driving (2-6mi trips), the most stressful for an engine (I think?). Everyone with a VQ just add my un-patented inline filter to stop the oil from going into the intake, lol. edit: it used less than 1/2 qt for those 5K miles!! I just changed my oil tonight.

Great site thanks for pointing this out!

I wouldn't say resurrect, I just recently bought the bulbs to do the main cluster and accessed this thread myself. I have not installed them yet, but I got the Autolumination 5 led bulbs for the cluster...in white. They also sold me a set of 7443 front turn/parking bulbs for the front...19 or 20 something LED, not really that bright for the cost. Could have got those from that dude on eBay from HK.(Warden something). His bulbs are awesome and don't take long to ship either...measurements here is the key. I would like to get 9 single 194s for the third brake light to finish converting all the OE lighting to LED but thats a small fortune! I picked up the LED resistor/rectifyer at Autozone for way less (12.99).

This has the making of a group buy, lol!

Wanted to mess with the idea of HIDs, but have yet to spend the money. HERE is a person that adapted some projectors right into his factory housings, apparently Murano/FX and Acura TSX projectors are top of the list for this activity!

Seat heaters are a "dead short" the only difference in the two is the path the current is given (low, high). If you want to check them first just figure out which wire is ground and then fire some current through the others to see if they heat up.

Sold my OME's when I let my 98 go...loved them. They were less springy than the AC but not as tall either. Their front struts were not as pleasing as the KYB's I hae now. I did like the rear shocks, nice firm supportive bounds in the back, sold those after the 98 left also. Current: AC springs 3/4" spacers (front inside spring strut combo) KYB front struts OEM rear shocks (suck, and are dying fast)

I do not have a pic of my set up, but it is easy to type up. The hose leaving the PCV connects to your throttle body...right beneath it actually. In its path it also uses a small brass colored metal line that bends arouns the intake. I took this metal line off and used new fuel hose from the pcv to a small open space close to the brake booster, this is where my "catch can" resides. I do not have the catch can mounted at all, the fuel hose is rigid enough and the filter light enough to hold it in the air against this tiny open space. I have had the same catch can (fuel filter) for over a year now and it works great. When I change my oil I diconnect the can and spray it clean with brake cleaner so I can see when it fills again. The reason I used a fuel filter is that it was small fit perfect, I can see through it (for the most part), and it has a filter to catch the oil vapors. I found a pic that is close to what I am using and it was an off the shelf part at AutoZone. "Catch Can"

That spindle leaves no room for the ball joint to come out any way other than perfectly straight up. A neat way of releasing the ball joint is to use 2 hammers and rap the spindle from both sides together at the same time. The pressure you exert on the spindle leaves it passing that same pressure to the weakest part, the ball joint, so the joint will pop right up after a few well times strong raps! This way also works if you are planning to re-use a ball joint, as those d*** seperators always destroy something!

I had OME HD struts on my 98, along with OME HD coils. They were awesome new, 1 developed a horrible sound when backing up and turning the wheel to the left. I kept these struts after selling the truck and returning it to factory. I put them on my 2002, the noise got worse, the truck seemed hoppy in the front. I used AC coils on the 2002. The struts had about 7K alltogether on them...1 dead as in did nothing...and the oher was lethargic but would still absorb ups/downs. I know own KYB's and they are smoother at absorbing the blows, the valving seems just perfect for the lifted R50. Keep in mind that my strut spacer is loaded inside the spring set-up, not on top so I get less extension than some other folks here. I have driven with the lift on now for 1.5 years and 10K with no issues with my KYB's!

If it is like Honda's it uses a small stamped ring that threads to the back of the lighter to hold it tight to the console.

Is it suddenly louder than before? The timing chain does make some noise, it may be time for a new chain and tensioners??

/\/\/\ Right on! Today I got a return mail from NWP engineering...they may make my Pathy a test vehicle, for a price (lol). So far the 00-01 Maxima uses the same gaskets for the: ------>lower intake manifold to upper intake manifold gasket ------>the lower intake manifold to head(s) gasket. NWP currently makes a kit for the 00-01 3.0 Max, something is in the works here! From their web-site, along with the throttle body gasket/coolant bypass this gasket set reduces intake temps by over 40 degrees farenheit--thus retaining the power that your engine makes when first started up cold, longer! NWP Spacer/Gaskets