02silverpathy

/\/\/\ Agreed OEM manufacturers must exploit efficiency on all ranges while maintaining emmission standards and longevity

The reason NISSAN does not mess with these items is...more power always means less MPG, with no fail. Perhaps some would say Forced Induction would make good power and good MPG which would be partially true, but the engine was efficient to begin with...then the skinny pedal will ruin that. These gaskets have not faded with Honda's, only slowed because more people are turboing now so there is less interest in a small "gain" be comparison. The problem is that there is no "gain", just a measure that gets lost as the engine warms up. The engine generates almost all of these figures up front, but heat soak reduces...no reason to argue as any episode of Pinks you can see people putting ice and other cooling agents on intake manifolds~~~and not because of some nonsensical reason. I have a phenolic gasket on my civic's intake manifold and would buy one for every car I have if they were made. The intake will eventually warm up, slightly, but will stay much cooler overall and provide more consistant power.

Put my bar on today...no problems with the bolts, but I took it slow so I didn't twist the heads off. The bar is awesome, the truck tries even harder now to sit flat in turns, well worth the cash! Turn in is much sharper... Thanks Jackson Autosport!

Hopefully not a , but how do you guys use your hi-lift? where do you locate it on the truck?

I hear what you all are saying, and I bought the Jackson one for the reason of universal fit as the rep for Jackson implied in his post. However I do commend the efforts of folks making their own stuff. I think that "pathblazin" should make a multipoint link that ties in from the OEM trans support to the "missing link" points and maybe even up to the front of the subframe where front skids bolt up. You could call this a ladder support or something, then offer to have it pre drilled for skids to bolt onto....lets accept/support his enthusiasm and ability and better our line of trucks. ~~~~Maybe you could give it the "pi" sign for a name and only hook it to the jackson area and the trans support area, lol that would be cool!~~~

/\/\/\/\ Yep, I forked over $85 for my 4wd lock nut tool and that was from a dealer that cut me all sorts of breaks and about 6 years ago at that!

Solution! for real this time! After ordering parts and fixing things at about 20 min intervals before work and after work I have replaced both wheel bearings (inner & outter). I did not replace the races as they looked like they required lots of time and mine didn't have any damage to them. It turns out that there was 25-33% more slop in the old bearings than the new ones...these new bearings made my noise go away! There is a tool made by the AST company to tighten lock nuts on our Nissans, but it is quite expensive. You can buy the GM 4wd tool at autozone or advance auto and grind off 2 of the points (GM's use all four points), and have yourself a tool for 1/2 what I paid for mine.

Click came back! I have purchase the inner and outter wheel bearings as well as the races. Anyone have tips on how to remove and re-install the races....I do not have a press, but I do own a solid brass mallet?!

Anyone have an issue with the CV not going far enough through the spindle to get the snap ring back on?

Add Strut Insulator & Strut Bearing, as well as camber bolts to your list! If you put anti-sieze on those strut bolts you will love yourself a few years from now! Same goes for end links...anti-sieze is your friend on a Nissan!

So 180's pic is of the strut nut washer. Your strut rod goes through here and then bolted snug. If this metal opening wears out your strut will be free to go all willy nilly around your unibody. The problem I have~err~was that the entire rubber insulator has torn free of the metal casement. I have pics, but don't currently have any hosted to put up. So in this case the entire insulator would bobble around inside the casing making it sound like a bad tie rod. I am taking a break right now as the dang AC spring does not wish to be compressed to properly fit all of the strut toppings back on~~I got pissed and made a sandwhich, lol I am such a fat kid!

Just a heads up to everyone out there...keep eyes peeled on those strut insulators. I had a clunk that sounded like my tie-rods were going bad....strut insulator, drivers side, torn 100%. 1 leap over your standard RR tracks and bam new hole in the pathy for sure. I had Nissan spec parts too. Oh well, I get to replace that tomorrow along with a new strut bearing for confidence and a new CV. Just a love my path heads up! Check 'em often! Calling Fueler to the busted my insulator thread!

Insert $.02 here Lol, am late to the party, but no steps. You will like the truck more and it will look taller. Those Q's have the best body molding and wheel flares out there. ...those are NOT low-pros...those are tweeners. 17's are harder to make look natural on R50's (IMO). The truck looks like it feels uncomfortable with itself--they are not fitting the trucks Chi, but they may work with a more meaty option wrapped around them. In fact its not the wheels at all, its those tires! Larger MT's and no one would ask about them anymore, even if you don't lift fill the wheel wells. Fueler has had a number of wheels, no matter what others thought, he always filled the wheel wells and the wheels looked great because of it!

I would totaly be interested in the strut bar also....is this a product in production or still in the tinkering stage? 2002 VQ35

Finally emailed an order in...if I hadn't been so busy at work I too could be giving my thought on this already. Jacksons post makes tons of sense...I know my path has been hit before, as well if you can remember GopathGo had twisted up his rig pretty good...that would make the copied bar tough to fit...though I really like the one pice design and it could be filled with spray foam! MAXEDPath---I would consider the spray foam to fill it up...many people use this stuff to stiffen hollow body parts also, an all around super product...the spray foam and your bar!

The model is GR-2. I have the GR-2's and could not be happier. I had the OME front nitro chargers and they blew in about 8 months...thats fast for such a nasty high price!!

I too am ordering one tomorrow! I sold some poo on ebay and Jackson takes paypal!!!

--SOLUTION!-- Inner wheel bearing was deprieved of grease and had been clicking around. I bought a new bearing just in case. I repack the inner bearing and noise is gone! I had not removed the inner bearing previously to put on the new rotors so I did not check them....it seems elementary of me now. In this great process I have also bought a grease gun to do the ZERKs on the driveshafts as well. Thank a million to all that gave input...I followed all paths to get to this answer!

Precisely! lol, I always twist them. A light grip on the hose at the filter just tight enough to hold the hose still and a twist. Go to the hardware store and buy 2 really small C clamps...they are like .99 each, nearly the same as what B said! I didn't follow the link, but instead of even attempting to unbolt the filter holder just slide to one side or the other and you will never have to use zip ties to hold your filter up.

I bought a new inner wheel bearing but its currently watering outside soooo maybe later today I can swap it out and check my hip!

UPDATE: This noise is only when driving, not in the air, There is no contact from the dust sheild, but I pryed it back some anyway. The front bearing was a little loose, so I tightened it. The end link is tight. The ball joint is tight. The tie rod is tight. The manual hubs are working and it does not make that noise with the hubs on or off, in the air. The click varies with speed, so it is rotational. I still have a click...what is left?

I can and will tomorrow...lol I need more batteries, I robbed the camera to feed the wireless mouse.

I hope I hope I hope! The brakes were a bear...I had a rusted slide pin that cooked (blued) a rotor after I put new pads and rotors on. I took the time to remove all and re-grease as I was certain that the grease was shot. This was on the driver side...now the pass side click grows enough to concern me, lol the 02 doesn't love me like the 98 did!

Oh, well on the CV there are 2 areas to put a snap ring....from your bearing pull grease etc thread you show that outter one....there is on hiding just inside your spindle in that pic too. I put my snap ring there....manual hubs are awesome........untill you gotta get out and spin them! They are worth the $$$ ! Yes constant clicky...have not checked the endlink on this side...maybe it clicks?

Super write up...I just did this too! One thing to pay close attention to putting it back together is to make sure that your outter bearing is pushed far enough in. I like to use the 4wd bearing lock ring tool and a rubber mallet to push the outter bearing in before you try to sping that lock ring on...otherwise you may spin for days before those fine threads catch anything. In addition, if you haven't owned the vehicle since new, wathch out for cross threading on this...it could cost you a new spindle. The lock ring will not cross thread itself, just the spindle.