02silverpathy

I think that it has a lot to do with how much you stack behind the shock mount. In a PU truck the rear suspension is pretty close to the back (the leaf springs go almost all the way back), the pathy has cargo space behind the spring/shock mount. your passengers are closer to the mounts than your cargo will be. I have AC spring and carry a 100 lb sub box in the back behind the seats...this brings the back down to meet the front level. If I add my rack and 3 bikes it goes down a bit...I really think it is due to how far behind the suspension everything is.

Long long ago, I posted in an attempt to pick out wheels....I have finally bought wheels. Here is a link to them...in action! on his Silver 4Runner.This video was posted by another member here. I saw these wheels long ago for sale and thought no way! After seeing this video I hunted down a set, which was hard as they are disco'd. They should have been to me alerady but the snow has gummed up shipping. Originally I wanted to get a set of MT Classic II's but these came along at a great price...new!

They all use the overhead console to "hang" the mirror, whether it has the read out or not....did yours not have a console? That would be different, but you also have a Can model. ?

if you need the ones with the charcoal color around the light instead of the chrome trim, Rustoleum "hammered" grey is darn near perfect! I may have tried this when I had the 98.

/\ /\ /\ Right fuel filter at least every year. I changed mine this Summer (2 yr old filter), when I emptied it out pouring gas out of the inlet the fuel came out rusty!! The filtered end came out looking clean, but there is just no telling how nasty the fuel was!! That dizzy is a big deal also!

Your welcome! 1.5" As GPG points out in another thread, you really only need 1" to get about any wheel to work, but the smallest I have seen are 1.25". A word of advice here is to make sure you gt the right lug thread on the spacer...I did not and have the Toyota pitch (12 x 1.25) instead of the Nissan (12 x 1.5). I think that the nissan is 12x1.5 check before ordering for sure!

I think the flat spoke ones look the most rugged, also slightly harder to find. I am running spacers ( 4 yrs) with the OE double spoke pathy wheels to get the 32's away frmo the spring perch. The spacers only draw backs are: extends the length of the front suspension (ball joints, hub bearing, rack & pinion) puts tires in a position to rub plastic that they would not have rubbed before (due to different geometry) I have periodically checked the adapters, and they have NOT come loose one bit. There will be a break in time, as they are aluminum, that you will want to check them and re-torq a few times, but thats it!

Every 4K, I use M1 with a Napa Gold filter (which is made by Wix and also matches the largest off the shelf size filter). I have come to the conclusion that I personally can't stand seeing the oil dirty past this number. I would use the M1 Extended Performance, as I did see that the truck consumed less oil, but I change my at a smaller interval any way so why waste the dough? I have wanted to use Amsoil products out of curiosity, but never plan for it ahead. I also read from Amsoils own site that the M1 EP is the closest competition to their product. edit: 2002 VQ power

My results on the 02 are similar. In just over 5K (short city trips also 5 miles or less) I burned just under 3/4 quart. If you take a long trip check that out too. I took an 800 mile trip and checked to see virtually no consumption. After making the trip home (another 800) still not any easy measureable amount of oil burned. I averaged about 70 MPH and the trip took 16 hrs of travel round trip. I would say that constant trip speeds vs. stop and go, greatly affect this particular engine in this rig.

Those tires look great for being used! That little metal panel protects some hard lines...most R50's with larger tires on stock wheels rub here...don't sweat it. Eventually this piece will be buffed to a nice polished finish!

That blk sticker thing, or the "0" on top of the coil in white...was some sort of an indicator of the updated coils, but I think that was just because for a year or so dealers had both on the shelves, I would think they would all be good now.

Lol, I think we are in agreeance. 1996 - 1999.49 = shorter front end 1999.50 - 2004 = longer front end And yes, what CLF said! Md parts yard want to beat us since we live close to the Gov't headquarters.

The iridiums plugs require less power (due to lower resistance) from the coil to fire, making it easier on the ignition system. I have them, and pulled mine after 20K and they look new, gap and all! I got 0 noticable difference from the truck, but the plugs are working correctly and wearing just perfect!

The bolt locations are the same, however the R50 in the picture is the second gen R50....the bumper and hood stick out further than the 96-99, so that guard would not fit flush with you truck. For your model and style the Manik brush guards are awesome! I also agree that those wheels are the best looking wheel for the R50, I wanted a set of those, but they are crazy expensive around my area and not very available.

Are you certain? I have used ATF in my T-Case (Manual lever style) for both my pathfinders. I am pretty sure what I dumped from both of them was ATF, not very thick, just dirty.

That sensor totally works, anything newer than 96 or that has OBDII uses the knock sensor to tell it how the engine is firing or knocking on the gas. It does not need to turn the light on as it could & does easily run with a broken knock sensor...it retards timing to a "safe " position so that minimal engine damage is done. The engineers would put the sensor there so that any grade of gas could be used and not damage the engine. Here in the states we are lucky to have such good quality of fuels....this is also the reason so many country's did not get the 3.5 in the R50...grade, quality, and availability. The article that I posted shows a SC Frontier at least "feeling" a difference after swapping his KS to a new location....the butt dyno is always good for 5 HP returns whether gain or restoring factory power is negligable, the truck ran better. I had a new one put on my 98 and the SAFC II that I had wired in mine showed an average of less knocks...if I still had the truck I would definately re locate it to a new place on the block , since I know I will use good quality of gas. I do not use grocery store gas, or sheetz gas in my path...or anything that has an intake or other modifications...I perfer Shell or BP but there are others that provide good refined fuels also. $.02

I would totally spend the effort to move it, not for the one time escape of intake manifold removal, but for future replacement all together! Those ECU's most definately adjust timing as much as possible based off of the KS working so swap it or move it. PS. I had found THIS ARTICLE and was impressed with the overall idea, it was something I never really considered!

Yeah with everything coming fromChina now its really hard to say "Brand X" is good. Look for a brand that has been made in the same country for years if you want real sound quality. I have Focal's, but I do like Memphis brand products as well as Polk & Infinity...these have never let me down.

IIRC they are fiberglass, and that plastic trim includes 2 round circle gaskets underneath the hatch. I have an 02 with the SE roof rack but have been debating getting a spoiler for the same reason!

I have these plugs in my 02. They have been in for 17K, no problems. If you gap these you must use needle nose pliers to grab the ground strap and pull back. They are pre-gapped, one may be out of spec but I doubt it. If you hve a mis fire start with making sure that all the coil harnesses are plugged up tight. I had a mssfire after a couple k miles, and it turned out that a coil came un screwed from the plastic valve cover!

Yes yes it is all super tight. These are a great starting point for a shop to finish them into fitting your R50...I (when I had my 98) was quite interested in having this done. The reason it was lacking eral interest from me was "Dernt" he actually had his rig dynoyed with the Stillen headers and only found a few ponies with them on vs them off. I believe he did have OE finishing exhaust but for the money I would be searching the possible S/C options for the VG33e.

B was right, the drums are scored prety good so the shoes were stuck in the drum where they had been riding. It was the adjuster that needed to be released to get them out of the drums so I could remove the drums, lol...what a mess it really was. I never had that much trouble with drums before. I have a recycler near me with a low mileage 03 and I am thinking of checking out the drums on it, mine are pretty dug into. Sam and I didn't remove the shoes, in fact we left the brake lines on...'cause I'm lazy. We simply removed the necessary nuts/bolts and slid the ends out!

After driving 1200-1300 miles the rear brakes performed OK. I only wish now that there wasn't so much nose dive in the truck, it is a little ridiculous. I have a hard time blaming springs too as they are only 3yrs old and have not been off road.

Thanks all for the help! The drums were indeed carved into a bit. I cleaned the drums, scuffed them up thoroughly and re-installed....oh and adjusted them back into a good working position! They have at least another 30-40K left in them, seems like they always last 100K huh?

Using bolts to help extract the drum is fine, but the entire assembly is stuck inside the drum...they will need to be grade 8's so that the can continue to go into the drum and pull all but the wheel cylinder off, then you risk distorting the drum. I figured the PB would cause me an issue, but I already had one and shoes are terribly expensive, lol I just wanted that crap off!