Hytekrednek Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 It wasn't. Only problem is that they cut and added a relay in main power wire to the ignition switch. Now I'm a little worried it may not crank. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 usually an alarm will have an ignition kill, if you remove an alarm, factory or aftermarket, remove the steering column upper and lower covers and look for the thick wire, most alarms require the thick wire to be cut and than routed through the alarm brain, if the thick wire is cut, just join the 2 halves together and you shouldn't have any problems starting the truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdj Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 Sounds like a silent alarm to me. Sorry just kidding but if you can find where it's tied in it should be easy enough to remove and hook the original wires back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 Well as I said above usually they cut the starter/ignition wire under the column and tuck the brain up behind the fuse box. You (anyone) can un bypass the starter kill under the column without removing anything else and all should be good, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 I locked it. (it is out in the driveway in my rough neighborhood) B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 (edited) Getting the Pathfinder ready for it's new owner, removed all my stuff, told him I would leave the radio but was taking the EQ, so today, swapped out my E-code Hella headlights and installed the 2 DOT Hella's he sent to me, replaced 2 grille clips that were broken. Removed my amp and EQ, wired the door speakers to the radio, re-installed the factory pocket under the radio, re-installed the radio with out using the aftermarket kit, the pocket had brackets I used to attach the radio, just had to trim the radio bezel slightly, : I know it's dirty didn't get to the cleaning part yet, LOL Also packed up some extra parts for the new owner, spare distributor, FI harness, auto hubs, etc, etc. ! That Alpine came out the same year as the pathfinder, 94 !! Edited March 15, 2014 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 I have always loved those older Alpine units. Well today. Got it dirty and COMPLETELY blew out the seals on my rack and pinion. Was able to get it home. However its toast. I have to replace it. Good news? Since it spit out all the fluid, its basically flushed itself and I can move to ATF now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdj Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 I peeled off half a wiper blade this morning with the ice scraper. Maybe I sharpened it a bit too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiBumBrian Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 Wasn't exactly today but it was the last thing I did.... After the DT headers and new full flow exhaust the last thing to do for better "breathing" was the cold air intake. I was concerned about guys saying that the intake noise was too much and went back to stock. I noticed very little increase in noise and with all these mods combined the truck drives sooo much nicer. It doesn't seems to struggle when accelerating. It always ran smooth but seemed to be working harder than it should. It seems to shift better except it doesn't kick into lock up as easily on the freeway. Maybe it is because of more "free" hp but it wants to hit about 70 before lock up when it was 60 before. Anyway, all of this made a huge difference in overall performance and hopefully it will make a difference in MPG too. I will post any changes I find. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushnut Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 replaced both outer CV boots in 3h. saved myself roughtly $300 in labour all for a $16.00 part. if I had let it go and the joints went bad add another $200 for aftermarket half shafts that don't work as good as OEM. Now I deserve a cold beer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 Sold it ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travisg Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 (edited) Wasn't exactly today but it was the last thing I did.... After the DT headers and new full flow exhaust the last thing to do for better "breathing" was the cold air intake. I was concerned about guys saying that the intake noise was too much and went back to stock. I noticed very little increase in noise and with all these mods combined the truck drives sooo much nicer. It doesn't seems to struggle when accelerating. It always ran smooth but seemed to be working harder than it should. It seems to shift better except it doesn't kick into lock up as easily on the freeway. Maybe it is because of more "free" hp but it wants to hit about 70 before lock up when it was 60 before. Anyway, all of this made a huge difference in overall performance and hopefully it will make a difference in MPG too. I will post any changes I find. i like your cap cover and wire/coil cover. where did you get that or what's it called? i'm intrigued. it looks nice, can't wait to do my intake. i have a 3" K&N cone that i got from work for free it's just sitting here begging to go in but i need the bracket. Edited March 19, 2014 by travisg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiBumBrian Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 The dizzy cap is stock, you can prolly find one at the JY.... I saw a thread in here somewhere where he took a Push Tite toilet flange and made the MAF to filter adapter from that. Looked easy and simple but I bought the kit instead. If I did it all over again, knowing what I know now, I would make my own.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travisg Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 i just need to get it. we sell an adapter at my work so i know i can get it. i read on another forum when trying to find the dizzy cap that it tends to keep moisture in and cause problems is what's your experience with that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiBumBrian Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 I live in a pretty dry climate and my pathy sleeps in the garage so I could not tell you from experience. It is not like it "seals" down or anything so I really can't see condensation as being a problem. Maybe someone from a wetter climate can chime in... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 (edited) NO problems with the OEM distributor cap cover, When I had the K&N on mine I made a spacer out of 1/2" plexi and the adapter they sell in the auto parts, the plexi helps isolate the air filter from the heat of the engine to lower intake air temps. Just kidding I made that up !! The plastic adapter didn't line up with the holes in the MAF sensor so I used the plexi to adapt the holes to meet up. I ended up taking it off and going back to stock as I couldn't stand hearing it any longer ! I used one of the stock air box mounts with one end straightened to support the air filter Edited March 19, 2014 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travisg Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 for me it's just a matter of money or lack there of at the moment. i know it's only like a $5 piece but broke as broke can be means you can't buy anything. lol i'm not too worried about the noise as i have a thrush glasspack on it and it's pretty damn loud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 Wasn't exactly today but it was the last thing I did.... After the DT headers and new full flow exhaust the last thing to do for better "breathing" was the cold air intake. I was concerned about guys saying that the intake noise was too much and went back to stock. I noticed very little increase in noise and with all these mods combined the truck drives sooo much nicer. It doesn't seems to struggle when accelerating. It always ran smooth but seemed to be working harder than it should. It seems to shift better except it doesn't kick into lock up as easily on the freeway. Maybe it is because of more "free" hp but it wants to hit about 70 before lock up when it was 60 before. Anyway, all of this made a huge difference in overall performance and hopefully it will make a difference in MPG too. I will post any changes I find. I noticed a nice bump in fuel economy from the intake/headers/exhaust combo. I gotta say that looks like a nice setup. Is that the ebay special?? The only thing I would add is a heat shield around the cone filter to improve performance and help keep the water away from it. I run a cone filter as well and I will be doing just that shortly. Nice! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiBumBrian Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 Yep, ebay special..... Thanks on the shield tip. I was thinking of something similar to keep the coolest air possible channeled to the intake. I will post pics when I mod something up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiBumBrian Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 I thought I should post this though. I am sure there are other kits on Ebay that are superior but this is a copy of what I sent to the seller. I have not made this a permanent record on Ebay as of yet, I am waiting to hear from the seller but if they do not respond I will submit a scathing review.... Dear ad-motors,I received my cold air intake for my Pathfinder and am somewhat disgusted with the quality, fitment, and missing hardware. Due to the improper angle of the fittings, there is no way to install the hoses without them collapsing. The MAF adapter was drilled improperly and had to be modified and there was no mounting hardware for any of the components. The flimsy aluminum braces are suspect and expect them to fail quickly. The only item that seems of adequate quality is the filter itself. I am very disappointed with this product. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 broke my frame again. Good thing I still have some steel leftover from my last repair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nissanland Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 Unlock it and open door, crack the Windows... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madhakish Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 (edited) Over the weekend..New tires: Falken Rocky Mountain 31x10.5x15 New wheels: Standard D-window steel 15x8, black.New Centerlink (napa "master chassis") - will probably use the old unit as a core for a hoo-haa when funds free up, and keep the master chassis as a stock spare if I ever sell her.New TRE's/sleeve - driver side (previous one was fine, but the sleeve/lock nuts had seized and the alignment guy couldn't break it free) New UBJ's - Napa/555 New LBJ - Napa/555 New front sway links/bushings Passenger door handleDrivers/passenger interior light toggle switches (pick n pull find!) Fuel sender wiring repair - need to come up with a more permanent repair.. Alignment Re the Falken's - huge improvement over the Firestone Destination A/T's I've been running for about 2 years now. They are *not* snow/winter rated tires, but neither were the firestones. Much better overall traction/feel. 31/10.5/15 instead of the stock size for the chrome steelies definitely makes a difference in overall road feel. Looking forward to the new wheels. Phew. Edited March 20, 2014 by madhakish 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travisg Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 replaced the O2 sensor and brakes. it took a lot longer than i expected but that sensor was really rusted in there. glad to have it done and now the engine light is OFF!!!!!!!!!!! super stoked about getting this done. tomorrow hopefully will be putting on the K&N cone filter maybe an oil change and getting the trunk lift supports changed as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialWarr Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 Ah, I spent about 2 hours driving around Montreal collecting small hardware parts to finish off the slide pin rebuild in the rear disc. I found that I was missing the anti-rattle clips and the rubber boots were torn. Both found and to be installed tomorrow at lunch! sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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