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Everything posted by SpecialWarr

  1. I overheard a worker that inspections were going to be instituted in the next few years and that anything "non-compliant" is going to be pulled off the roads.... overheard at the SAAQ Ste-Agathe last year when I was waiting to register the Xterra!
  2. Being in Colorado you might but it was a real problem up here in Canada / the Rust Belt. IT's pretty dry over that way that far inside the country so I would think that you should be alright. Either way you can always have someone weld up a set of plates to the outside after some rust removal ( as needed) whereas we can't do that here in Quebec ( welcome to the "california regulations" of the north). IF you feel that you _must know_ grab a flatblade screwdriver and start stabbing away at the frame under the truck.... if the blade penetrates then you need them... if it bounces off, your good to go.
  3. That seems like a low fuel pressure to me; I was thinking that the correct pressure was 43 at idle and 50+ above 2400 rpm.... someone correct me if I'm wrong! That it idles fine but then runs like crap would maybe be a plugged filter in the engine bay? At least that's where I would start because those filters are cheap, eazay to get to and you only need a star screwdriver to get them off.
  4. I have both the front fenders, fender flares and mud guards in the back of the X for you @adamzan along with the slightly split, grey, drivers' arm rest and bolt.
  5. The rest is pretty bad after sitting in the woods for the last 6 years. No interior other than seats, no center console, no tires, no diff at this point. Windshield is cracked and the door and window seals are all toast. The two front panels are still there and intact, The hood has been hit with a small tree though so that's got a dent and none of the carpet / hood foamy-carpet-fire-resistant stuff in intact.
  6. You need a center arm-rest or the door arm-rest @adamzan? I need the diff out of the Pathy for the X and the rest of the car is going to be scrapped very soon afterwards due to town bylaws and whatnot..... anyone need any relays, harness bits or whatever that big fuse thingy off of the battery is called?
  7. Thanks for the heads up and info. The WD21 is definitely an LSD ( tested on jack stands while adding a lift kit from Steve Fleury) so there shouldn't be a problem there, 11 stud vs. 9 stud is an interesting new development though.... My regular mechanic is not a Nissan guy per se so there are a few things that he has trouble with ( he/ they mostly work on Ford/ Chev/ Dodge/ Honda) the alignment for instance but he is across the street from where I work so the convenience factor is powerful! As for me, I've never pulled off a diff, so I am completely in the dark about who's which goes where other than there are bolts and brake lines that need to come off to be able to pull the diffs out!! Again, thanks for the info and I'll drop a line again as soon as I can get the diff out of the WD21 and into the hands of the transmission specialist and I'll let you all know how everything went.
  8. I agree with @adamzan most reliable and probably my most trustworthy vehicle.... not the smoothest, fastest or most comfortable but as reliable as my Estwing hammer. Same reason I bought the '01 Xterra although I need to keep working on the X to get it into trustworthy status..... we close though!
  9. @hawairish Thanks for the writeup boss! Great info for those of us who are noobs to the whole diff rebuilding world. Not to hijack your thread or anything( he said, totalllly hijacking the thread), but I figured that since I am in need of a diff for my '01 Xterra (WD22) with the H233 (4.63 gears right now) and I still have my WD21 from 1990 also with the H233 and running 4.63 I would ask anyway! The problem is is that the diff in the X growls on the gas at any speed over 80km/hr and I hate that because it makes me nervous. Question 1: can I swap out the side gears from the WD22 to the assembly from the WD21? keeping the axle shafts, seals and side gears from the WD22?? OR am I crazy for thinking that that's possible??? The problem with the X is that the pinion bearing has been so badly abused by the previous owner that it has 2-3mm of vertical play at the front flange and just started to leak oil last week..... the semi-local diff and transmission guy has basically told me that parts are not available this year, are difficult to find when they are available and are in limited quantities if they are even findable so I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place. What I do have is a fully functional WD21 sitting in the woods that I own ( but got pulled off the road for safety reasons due to rust issues). IF I can actually pull both rear differentials; Question 2: what else _should_ be done to get the WD22 back up and running while we are in there??
  10. worst case, I can pull the one out of the 1990 and ship it to you.
  11. Vampire bat? They tend to consume power... you might want to try a fruit bat next time! Seriously though: I would think that a plug has come undone since full power comes direct to switch at the column and most of the time only one circuit cuts out ( as the fine gentlemen above noted) except for that one guy who lost both high and low beams at the same time.... guy from Saskatoon?
  12. It should since most of the difference is forward of the trans output shaft. It might be a bit of an issue if you also want to swap from a manual to an autobox because of the trans computer, but otherwise I see no real problems with another trans of the same model ( different vehicle, year, spec is okay... as long as it has the RE401 in the same configuration).
  13. I miss my Pathfinder.... not the 16mpg.... but I have officially requested an authorization to replace the frame with a custom build, cross your fingers for a thumbs up!!

    1. SpecialWarr


      And that's a big NO to the fabricated frame from the government. damnit.

  14. You might want to consider 3d printing one if you know someone who does that! Although I admit that I live in the airplane capital of Canada so _everyone_ has a something super trick like that around here.
  15. A roof rack is an excellent reason to make yourself an exocage!
  16. Agreed with these two characters also... the 90-95 should fit fine, just make sure that you remove the engine hoist bracket on the back of the left side head BEFORE you put them on.
  17. Personally I would suggest a definitive diagnostic and confirmation that it IS the fuel pump and not a bad wire in the loom that snakes around next to he exhaust / bash guard for the tank / tank mounting bolt hangers. You may want to get yourself a $7 test light from the auto parts store before you drop $$$ on a part you don't actually need. The test light is a very handy tool if you can figure out a wiring diagram power / control and ground. You can figure out _where_ the problem is instead of firing the "new parts cannon" at the vehicle. My test light _would have_ saved me from replacing the battery, the starter and alternator and getting a tow.... but I trusted a digital voltmeter instead. My mistake. In short.... it _might_ be the pump. But you should _know_ that it IS the pump before you open that can of worms on an old truck like ours.
  18. Just saw your YouTube vid.... nice!!

  19. I had suggested years ago that it is possible for me to do this on the pathy, but between the cost of materials, my CAD/ CAM time and the need for at least 10 people to sign on and put money down it never got off of the ground floor. Sorry about that.
  20. The last time I was honked at was while I was in traffic through a construction zone going about 15km/hr!
  21. The only coolant passage that I recall in the intake tract is to heat the throttle body and that's with the two 3/16" hoses under it, after that I only recall heater core lines at the back of the engine on the passenger side; if they were leaking you would have smoke in the engine bay. The large quantity of smoke out of the exhaust could be either accumulated water from sitting which will take a goodly while to burn off OR, as you said, the water jacket surrounding cyl #1. It could be a head gasket but there are folks who a getting 700 hp from the stock internals and heads so I have to think that it an unlikely cause. AS far as the fuel out of the exhaust: did you check to see if the liquid evaporated quickly or lit on fire? I would suspect the flexible fuel lines might be at issue if you didn't replace them when you were doing the intake.... you didn't mention anything about them so I'm just throwing that out there. That's where my fuel leak was anyway! I would suspect that a stuck open injector would not smell in the cabin... I can assure you that a leaking fuel line in between the two banks smells a lot! That's all I have as ideas and direction! I hope you track down the coolant leak!
  22. I'm pretty sure that the front is an R200, super common on S13's, GTRs, 180's, 240's as a rear diff so there are lockers for the front and lots of regular people have installed them.... the H233 rear is another thing. Not that it isn't available.... ( https://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/19851995-wd21-pathfinder-mechanical-locker-c-38_1321_1208.html ).... but installs are a lot less common, as are any setup and fitment issues that might be present.
  23. Running through the gears is quite easy, you just need to get the rear wheels off of the ground but try to keep the truck level. It _may_ be that you are super low on fluid, but if there are metal flakes in the oil then that transmission is probably on it's last legs.
  24. That's not something that you can find at a general parts store. That's a dealership (maybe) part, or an eBay part. It's a really simple system and just needs both wires attached. I don't really care if mine lights up or not so I never bothered to fix mine!
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