SpecialWarr

I can see how a missing knock sensor could cause a rough idle and throw the money light on.... it just plugs in behind the intake but if you have large hands and little dexterity it's going to be a struggle. You have to remove the upper intake plenum to even get to the knock sensor.

What the man sayz ^^

I would think that a cracked exhaust stud or a clogged MAF sensor might do that but thinking about it while I write this another thought occurred to me: does the MAF itself have a good ground, i.e.: a new ground wire to bare metal? If not there is a new part that (used to be available) is supposed to add a wire to that connector. There are a few threads in here that speak to that subject including part numbers and how-tos.

Now is that whispy, thin white smoke or crap-tons of white smoke that you _can't_ see through?? If it's the first kind it may just be accumulated water condensation in the exhaust and resonator, nothing to see here. IF it's the latter: the head gasket may be done and is leaking coolant into the exhaust headers. The only two realistic probabilities are water from outside getting in and water from inside getting out. Are you sure that you aren't loosing coolant? Visual check or measured volume?

This is from smj999smj over on the nico club forums: According to the wiring diagram, there are two, BLACK/WHITE wires at the fuel pump relayharness connector which are powered by a single, 10A fuse. So, if you unplug the fuel pump relay, you should confirm power at those two wires with a 12v test light with the key in "ON" or "START" positions. The fuel pump relay harness connector has two more wires: WHITE/BLUE and RED/BLUE. The RED/BLUE wire is part of the ground circuit for the fuel pump relay's solenoid(which is inside of the relay). When the relay is energized, it causes the switch side of the relay to close and send power to the fuel pump and the IACV air regulator. The RED/BLUE wire goes from the fuel pump relay harness connector to ECM pin #104 ; it is the ECM that provides the ground to this circuit. So, with the ECM and fuel pump relay disconnected, you should have no continuity between chassis ground and the RED/BLUE wire (if it does, then it is shorted). You should also have good continuity through the RED/BLUE wire with no excessive resistance when testing from the relay harness connector to the #104 pin of the ECM harness connector. Also, ECM harness connector pin #115 , a BLACK wire, should have good continuity to ground as it is the ground for the ECM. The WHITE/BLUE wire at the fuel pump harness connector starts as a single wire then splices (probably the reason why the wire is smaller at the pump connector), one to the IACV air regulator, which powers the air regulator and goes to ground. The other side of the splice goes to the fuel pump, where it powers the pump and goes to ground. If you jump a BLACK/WHITE wireto the WHITE/BLUE wire and the key is "on," you should have power to the fuel pump. If you don't, you have an open circuit in the WHITE/BLUE wire and it needs to be traced and repaired (I would also check for power at the IACV air regulator if there is no power at the pump because it may help out in the diagnosis of the open and tracing it). If you do have power to the pump when you jumped the relay, remove the jump wire and install a known good relay. If that doesn't fix it, it would be likely that the driver is bad inside the ECM and the ECM needs to be replaced.

Photos? Link?

That is most likely the two high pressure fuel hoses that run between the left and right bank of your fuel injectors. They aren't difficult to replace but it is an involved process of removing the upper portion of the intake, the throttle body, small items items (IACV, throttle position sensor, and the fuel pressure regulator). The hoses them selves aren't easy to get on since they are only 4 inches long and you don't have a lot of room to work them into position. but it _is_ do-able. There should be a write-up over in the Garage section, other wise they _must_ be a post about that elsewhere on the forum!

I would note that you do have to take the fender windshield cowl off to get to the last upper fender bolt ( for changing the fender) but if you get the rest of the bolts off them you should be able to swing the fender up and get a shoulder under there to unbolt the door hinges... and yes... it is not fun to fish the damn electrical back through the body but that's easier with a small wire and lots of electrical tape. ( I used a bicycle cable end because I had one handy. I just knotted one end and passed that behind the plug and tape the wires together to hold it in place-ish then kept taping the rest of the plug until it was sort of tapered with most of the wire poking out.... stuff that through the body and pull the tape off.)

"It appears that it is running from Transmission into cooler line on bottom of radiator coming from other cooler line bottom of radiator into B & M cooler & out from B & M cooler into other transmission line going back into transmission again. Not sure if they have it run correctly" That sounds like the way it is supposed to be run since there are the 2 hardlines bolted to the passenger side engine block that run from there across to the rad through reduced diameter flexible lines. I ran mine under the rad but beside the rad is fine as long as the rad itself is bypassed completely. I would be doing a tour under the truck with every possible socket snugging up every nut and bolt under there as a precaution paying _careful_ attention to _anything_ that was loose or not as tight as every other identical nut / bolt. After that I would start with the radiator fluid.... is it full and flowing with the rad cap off? It should be! Throw the cap back on and let it warm up then check the trans fluid... is it red and full? It should be! Other than that I would give the two hoses into the heater core back by the firewall and behind the valve cover vent a tug and wiggle with a pair of pliers (they'll be warm by now) to see if anything is loose or a clamp has come off or slipped. That's about all I can offer from 3000 miles away! Good luck!

4 inch thick inflatable matress double width confirmed! Now where to put the tools? Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

Aha... I see. The only other thing that I can think of is a control arm bushing wallowed out but that's all I have..... Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

I am going to vote steering stops since they most likely do not have the nylon cups on them anymore, you then get steel-on-rust rubbing noises. I took some of the undercoat and smeared that on the control arm contact points. It held up quite well!

Looking at the alignment and x,y,z coordinates in the FSMs it would be a crap-ton of fabricating mounts and adapters.... almost none of the points line up and heights and positions are all over the place. It might be possible but only if you can work on it on a flat floor, indoors somewhere. That is still beyond what I am willing to do.

The spare was matched to the XE which came with 235/75 R15s and since all vehicles came with a spare on a steel rim it is considerably less expensive to specify a wheel and tire combo you already have in stock than spec something else. ANNNND you can charge a premium for a matching alloy rim as a spare! Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

Might I suggest a bit of highlighting in the middle, a couple of pagebreaks and request that Precise1 or another administrator pin this in the Garage section.

You can rebuild it if you're feeling that good and have time:

I read up on the forum and I chose to let the shop do the starter but it's a relaxed weekend of wrenching if you do it at home. Easier with a body lift. Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

So that has to be either an injector that's stuck open or is getting an electrical signal full time keeping the injector open... I can't think of anything else that would do that!

MAF wiring or a sketchy ground? Mine was a Idle Air Control Valve that was super dirty. I took it and the throttle body apart and cleaned them... truck ran fine afterwards... I also find that pulling the two battery terminals and touching the main positive and negative wires to each other seem to get everything back to factory settings.... mind you you do need to fiddle with every button and switch afterwards while the truck is running which is a bit of a pain.

Yea I have tried that but then no one listens to me when I tell them that the blah blah blah needs to be replaced this year and no it can't go another year. Then it breaks and everyone is like : 'why didn't you say something'.... Everyone else also makes 40-70% more than I do but none of them can spin a wrench. So I end up the hired help and like Rodney Dangerfield. .. I don't get no respect! Thanks for the lowdown on the Gen2!! Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

Yea I was looking at the numbers in site for transport Canada and I saw that the 3.3 gets worse except for the supercharged one. But finding a supercharger that doesn't need are rebuild is a challenge in itself. I'm leaning towards an N50 (gen2+) anyway.. maybe I'll get a bit more respect at the family meetings in a newer vehicle. Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

Post up a list and I put your name on stuff! I am still driving it around until I get an X so.... as long as you don't need an alternator or a valve cover! Those we'll pull off later! Pav: same deal!! Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

I am not in any kind of position to be able to keep it on the road so the fender is yours. Antenna with it? Anything else you need? Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

I don't think I can afford your hourly rate Adam! The new list of what is wrong is longer than I care to write out here but I will anyway so I can refer back to it in the future: Frame is broken above, in front of and behind the rear axle; the DeDion tube is only welded to a part of a plate that isn't attached to anything; the drivers' side lower spring perch is a patch and 1/2" too high; the windshield frame is rusted letting water in anytime it rains. I _still_ haven't fixed / hotwired more than one window to operate; the driving lights don't work (again); the front end accident that it had has bent the front of the frame; the rockers panels are not... attached... anymore; no panel behind the rear door is intact. The rear door is rusted through at the lower window corner on both sides; all of the weather stripping leaks water into the cabin; both front floor panels are rusted into separate pieces and leak freezing cold air and water inside during the winter; and the timing belt, water pump and thermostat need to be done in the next few thousand. Time to put her to bed.

I'm thinking hard about what to do _with_ the Pathfinder now that the frame is broken... again.... for the third time. I don't have a garage, shop or parking spot and the family doesn't want to look at it on the lawn at the cottage. Michèle, my wife, thinks I should drive either the $1000 CR-V or the 7 year old Chevrolet instead of buying a 2007 XTERRA. Ideas? Suggestions? I would like to keep the Pathfinder but there is so much wrong that I can't even mustard the energy to start fixing everything. Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk