SpecialWarr

I have to agree with Slartibartfast"... would wait for it to set the CEL again, then stop and check codes without shutting it off and see if that helped it tell me what was wrong."

The only other thing I can think of is the fuel pressure regulator on the back of the intake / its vacuum hose / a vacuum hose issue.... maybe pirate air from the intake boot to the throttle body?

I have to agree with PathyAndTheJets... my first thought was the exhaust hitting something during warm-up. My exhaust wasn't welded perfectly ( my bad, I did the welding) and taps lightly on the fuel tank bash plate at times but with a broken exhaust hanger being replaced with a bolt that's not a surprise. I suspect a good look under the truck while it's running with all 4 wheels chocked and the e-brake on you should be able to find it; it is loud so you will want a set of ear plugs to filter out the noise and hone in on the problem area. I suspect that the exhaust is a tap-tap-tapping it's way through somewhere.

Bring a mirror because you can't see it from anywhere except by removing the upper intake plenum!

Also, I might suspect cleaning out or bypassing the in-radiator ATF cooler may help (per previous posts about cold temp issues), making sure that the same tires, same oil, same plugs, same wires and a good MAF cleaning might make enough of a difference collectively. Gapping the plugs all the same (to 0.001") and confirming that you don't have an injector stuck open will also help. The only other thing might be a dieing oxygen sensor but that's all I can think of that would actually affect fuel mileage. New plugs and wires?? New cap and rotor?? I'm just throwing those out there since you didn't mention changing them recently.

Or you could get a long thin rod and set it onto the injectors one at a time and listen for clicking through the rod. It won't tell you if the injector is clogged but it will tell you that it's operating easier than trying to unplug injectors.

Yea I've seen that the wires are a bit on the short side, I was hoping that someone might take a look for a product number so can just find a bunch of them at the electronics store. Oh well... looks like I'm breaking into switches again.

Did we get the video of this up and running? I hate taking apart anything electrical... it leads (sic) to bad things.

I changed the rear brake pads on the drivers' side since they had worn down to the backing plate, and decided that once I have some money I should maybe think about getting a passenger side rear caliper that isn't stuck on it's slide pin......or fix the original. I took a look at the front pads, I still have about 50% pad life on both sides so I left them there and put the front pads back in the box for next time around. I also had a most unfortunate weekend of grinding, cleaning and welding which worked out like this: arrived at the cottage Friday night, set up and prepped tools, location, extensions and supplies. I was up at 5am Saturday and scraped, poked and cleaned the frame before I started welding. 30 seconds later no more wire was coming out of the welder. Panic for a second and then opened the hood on the welder: no wire. So i had to drive up to Canadian Tire after I put the truck back together get some welding wire. I came back, set up and pulled the wheel off, cleaned, pulled out the grinder... the grinder died...there aren't any on sale, it's 11:30am and I'm getting a bit irritable. So I took to the rear brake pads and waited for the call that my brake pads were in; whereupon (don't get to use that word very often) I discovered that the slide pin is pretty much frozen and the piston on the drivers' side is sticky from being pushed out so far. A 24" steel pipe and a big flatblade screwdriver took care of the piston after 45 minutes of wiggling and swearing but not even the 9lbs "gentle persuader" could get the slide pin on the right to move. SO back to the main issue: If I had a million dollars...... I would have some brakes that work like a champ; and maybe a new paint job. And I'd be rich.

The only things that I can think of off the top of my head are the wires on the drivers' door master switch or a ground grounding out (pinched wire from a door?)? I don't recall where the relay is but there is a Factory Service Manual that you can download in the "Garage" section on here. It can guide you!

Rob Lacy (Alkorahil) at the dealership in Texas might be a good guy to call on this one. Other than that I am out of ideas other than to measure things.

I would start with a serious cleaning of the entire intake , MAF and throttle body. It should be relatively inexpensive and not take more then 2 hours to get them all clean. After that I would be looking at the fuel pressure regulator on the back of the lower intake next to the firewall just to see if it has its hose still attached.

I ended up grabbing my #2 ( stuck injector ) with a pair of pliers and twisting with one hand while levering with a big flatblade or something with the other hand. It did come out but only after about 30 minutes of wrestling with it. I couldn't manage to get the area that clean so I had to be really careful while changing that injector. I had a helofatime getting it back in though.... no one told me that you lubricate the o-rings with fuel before ya re-install.... oh well.

I have to agree with the rest of the gang that $3500 is high for dry rotted tires and seals with a random miss and a clutch that needs an adjustment. I would head west (or look to the west) and shop over there for a better shape WD21; but that's my two cents worth!

I just put in a Bluetooth speaker into the hole from the old stereo.... play music off of my phone, no commercials and I get to listen to music I like!

I did the same but moved my "new" ground to just under the relay bank next to the MAF.

Cuong Nguyen He's a good guy to have on the site!!

A lift kit isn't needed to fit 32" wheel for the most part ( external circumference will be the determining factor). I pulled mine off and stepped down to a 31" with stiffer sidewalls since We have a lot of sharp granite and mud around my part of North America so thin sidewalls and lots of volume doesn't help any around here. (Sold those tires last year.) They _may_ buzz for a micro-second at full compression but other than that I had no trouble pulling out of a tiny space in the underground parking at my apartment building at the time. They never touched the fender flares or rubbed on anything else while I drove them around. That's about all I can give you on the 32" tire scene! No cutting or trimming was needed anywhere to get them to fit.

That mirror looks like the one off of the chrome kit from 1993/ 1994... I don't know if was available as a "kit" or whether it was supplied stock. I have seen a picture like with a similar finish floating around on the wikipedia commons but I think it's a stock mirror with a spray-on chrome finish. That one has a different mount from the stock factory now that I look at it more closely. Maybe it's off of something else??

There was some discussion last year about which amp powered which speakers but since they come in so many different configurations I don't even know which one powers which in my own Pathfinder, wiring is different for each speaker set-up as well which also adds to the confusion. Most folks have, from what I can figure out, run wires from a new / different head unit and bypass the amps.

Just kidding around boss.... Everyone else appeared to be all over this anyway. I've just never seen those things anywhere near a car!

I had that kinda thing going on and discovered it was my front wheel bearings that were done. Once you get moving the individual bearings rotate into a balanced position by themselves and no longer make noise but when they are warmed up they have enough room to drop down the sides of the bearing making a nasty noise until they place themselves further apart while rolling.... just my two cents, and set of bearings worth. Unlike the rear bearings the front ones are tapered cage held in place with a locknut, 45 minutes a side for this first-timer (first wheel bearing ever changed on a car/truck/motorcycle) but easy as pie! Snap ring pliers, 6mm hex key, #2 Phillips/ star screwdriver, needlenose pliers, maybe a flatblade and hammer fi you're feeling really enthusiastic and want to change the races.

Or you could spend $7 at The Source for a variable potentiometer and 3 minutes installing it.