SpecialWarr

The guy to talk to about that would "our" Nissan parts guy: Alkorahil

And don't forget to let us know what it was and how the repair went!

I had a similar problem but your sounds like something is pulling the battery to ground through the starter...IF you have another vehicle you could pull the starter and have it checked at a good auto parts store. I suspect that it's a relay but I am suspicious of most relays to begin with!

I'll consult with my wife but later today but for now: Tentative Saturday early afternoon work for you?

I think you'll find that the pathfinder, whether 2wd or 4x4, will get about the same distance out of a tank of fuel. The rwd may have 150 lbs less running gear but that doesn't make much of a difference once it is up to speed, the motor is still a guzzlin at 12-15 mpg...

The computer ( from what I have read) is a learning computer but the drive cycle is set at 50 cycles initial and an additional 50 cycles to have a complete parameter guide. It should learn some settings within the first 10-15 drives and get "acquainted" with your driving in a 2-3 weeks period. after that it appears that it will re-learn some settings after the battery has been out for an hour or more..... this is just what I have noted over the last 4 years and $5000 of parts and installation of things! Low idle? 500 ish might be in need of a MAF cleaning / throttle body cleaning / a good rip onto the highway at full throttle to clear things up. MAybe an adjustment if those don't work.

Wisconsin..... that's a loooong way from Montreal.... that's unfortunate. Maybe Bushnut might be interested, since he's closer, although I don't know if he needs a frame!

If you need a hand moving machines over a weekend or two drop me a line I'll be happy to give you a hand! Sent from my Samsung LTE

Sold! Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

I have been playing with the parts finders on the internet and I see that the lower shaft / stub shaft for the steering column is not widely available, in fact, as far as I can tell my 2 options are an internet thrashing for the thing from a discount dealer online, or a local dealer. Knowing what I know about the exchange rate at this time ( 30% increase per dollar) it looks like I would be out $255 Canukistan dollars for the lower shaft UNLESS someone knows where or how I can get myself a tiny yoke looking thingy with splines on it for less. I would like to simply replace the u-joint....but it looks like that's not possible since I can't see any bolts, clips, wire rings or anything else that might let me pull it apart. Does anyone have one they would like to get rid of for the low low price of I'll-buy-you-a-beverage-or-a-dozen when we meet plus shipping? For a visual reference: ST-12 or so for the tilt type power steering lower shaft, ST-20 ish or ST-30 ish in the FSM; lower joint to 'stub shaft' (same part). I know what you're thinking: IT's the Idler Arm.... it's the centerlink! Nope.... checked on those this afternoon with my very capable assistant / wife Michele. Since I've just replaced the upper ball joints last week and both tie-rod assemblies also last week it can't be those either. The slop can be felt in the u-joint and it's kinda bothersome to drive around it. In fact, it's okay most of the time in the city but the truck spends 55% of its time on the highway and that makes it a problem that requires a resolution. Can you help a brother out or am I off to sell my other kidney??

God I love this forum.....I'll be headed out to make some tie-rods adjustments tomorrow morning if it decides to stop raining! Settle the truck back down after a dual tie-rod assembly install with upper ball joints on the side.

I have to agree with Slartibartfast"... would wait for it to set the CEL again, then stop and check codes without shutting it off and see if that helped it tell me what was wrong."

I have to agree with Slartibartfast"... would wait for it to set the CEL again, then stop and check codes without shutting it off and see if that helped it tell me what was wrong."

The only other thing I can think of is the fuel pressure regulator on the back of the intake / its vacuum hose / a vacuum hose issue.... maybe pirate air from the intake boot to the throttle body?

I have to agree with PathyAndTheJets... my first thought was the exhaust hitting something during warm-up. My exhaust wasn't welded perfectly ( my bad, I did the welding) and taps lightly on the fuel tank bash plate at times but with a broken exhaust hanger being replaced with a bolt that's not a surprise. I suspect a good look under the truck while it's running with all 4 wheels chocked and the e-brake on you should be able to find it; it is loud so you will want a set of ear plugs to filter out the noise and hone in on the problem area. I suspect that the exhaust is a tap-tap-tapping it's way through somewhere.

Bring a mirror because you can't see it from anywhere except by removing the upper intake plenum!

Also, I might suspect cleaning out or bypassing the in-radiator ATF cooler may help (per previous posts about cold temp issues), making sure that the same tires, same oil, same plugs, same wires and a good MAF cleaning might make enough of a difference collectively. Gapping the plugs all the same (to 0.001") and confirming that you don't have an injector stuck open will also help. The only other thing might be a dieing oxygen sensor but that's all I can think of that would actually affect fuel mileage. New plugs and wires?? New cap and rotor?? I'm just throwing those out there since you didn't mention changing them recently.

Or you could get a long thin rod and set it onto the injectors one at a time and listen for clicking through the rod. It won't tell you if the injector is clogged but it will tell you that it's operating easier than trying to unplug injectors.

Yea I've seen that the wires are a bit on the short side, I was hoping that someone might take a look for a product number so can just find a bunch of them at the electronics store. Oh well... looks like I'm breaking into switches again.

Did we get the video of this up and running? I hate taking apart anything electrical... it leads (sic) to bad things.

I changed the rear brake pads on the drivers' side since they had worn down to the backing plate, and decided that once I have some money I should maybe think about getting a passenger side rear caliper that isn't stuck on it's slide pin......or fix the original. I took a look at the front pads, I still have about 50% pad life on both sides so I left them there and put the front pads back in the box for next time around. I also had a most unfortunate weekend of grinding, cleaning and welding which worked out like this: arrived at the cottage Friday night, set up and prepped tools, location, extensions and supplies. I was up at 5am Saturday and scraped, poked and cleaned the frame before I started welding. 30 seconds later no more wire was coming out of the welder. Panic for a second and then opened the hood on the welder: no wire. So i had to drive up to Canadian Tire after I put the truck back together get some welding wire. I came back, set up and pulled the wheel off, cleaned, pulled out the grinder... the grinder died...there aren't any on sale, it's 11:30am and I'm getting a bit irritable. So I took to the rear brake pads and waited for the call that my brake pads were in; whereupon (don't get to use that word very often) I discovered that the slide pin is pretty much frozen and the piston on the drivers' side is sticky from being pushed out so far. A 24" steel pipe and a big flatblade screwdriver took care of the piston after 45 minutes of wiggling and swearing but not even the 9lbs "gentle persuader" could get the slide pin on the right to move. SO back to the main issue: If I had a million dollars...... I would have some brakes that work like a champ; and maybe a new paint job. And I'd be rich.

The only things that I can think of off the top of my head are the wires on the drivers' door master switch or a ground grounding out (pinched wire from a door?)? I don't recall where the relay is but there is a Factory Service Manual that you can download in the "Garage" section on here. It can guide you!

Rob Lacy (Alkorahil) at the dealership in Texas might be a good guy to call on this one. Other than that I am out of ideas other than to measure things.