SpecialWarr

LOL... and there is a lot of that when a person is under the hood looking at all that stuff!

1 headlight, no High beam ( changed bulb, same symptoms) That sounds like 2 different problems: 1) a bad ground and 2) possible switch that's overheated / carbonized. Links to either of these I do not know but I'm be willing to bet my last $21.42 that the ground wires are corroded or broken. (One of the major problems with the Pathy are the cheap grounds.... coulda and shoulda gone with better but they didn't.) I went with cable eye-rings under the body bolts that hold the fender on, crimped and sealed, painted over and RTV'ed over that. Looks frankenstein but works great.

This is what it should look like from the front of the truck: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CswWM8F85nM And I just realized that this post does not address the question.... but it does show the position of the rotor! Sorry about that!

some air bubbles in the coolant Yep, I guess I should have thought of that as well seeing as I do much of the flush and refill at work.... suspension though!

I would suggest you remove and clean the blower motor housing around the fan, it comes off with a couple of screws. There is a how-to ( I think) in the Garage header section. The power fluctuation might be trees leaves and stuff slowing the motor or the resistors starting to overheat. Either way, clean that thing out and take a look around for other issues!

It could be a fuel pump on it's way out but you should be able to hear the pump kick in when you hit the ON part of the ignition cycle before you start it. The timing on the distributor might be off just enough to be a pain, you may want to check that the distributor is clocked and locked down ( 15-17 degrees of advance at idle, I believe) And that's all I got!

Dirty intake or Idle Air Control Valve would be my first two guesses, A can of intake cleaner and 20 minutes can take care of both of those! Watch out for the coolant line on the bottom of the throttle body if you decide that you want to clean that as well. Other than that I would think that maybe the distributor cap may be off a few degrees... try turning it while the engine is running and see if that clears things up!

I have to vote for Pav and a close second for Stovanovitch! Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

True, sorry about that adamzan. Since there is no snow I assume that we can still go wheeling after Christmas! North of Hawkesbury? I have a dinner on the 28th though!

Drop me an Pav a line if you make it, we can call adamzan and drag you into the woods for a bit of wheeling!!

I would have to say that it may be a broken shaft or pulley but then the car must sound like crap in either case and have no power.

I spent another weekend welding some CR1018 to the area around the wheel wells and replaced a 5" piece of vacuum hose from the FPR to the back of the intake. Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

All I have to offer is a panhard rod bushing, but I base that on no evidence at all!

The stock shocks can handle that much more travel as the stock springs drop right into place even with the shocks still attached. You may find the end of the travel a bit harsh but after the 2" lift that I installed there was enough place for at least another inch of spring. The anti-sway bars are an on-road performance handling thing; they just make sure that the body on the left side is attached to the suspension on the right side and vice versa. The shocks will be fine!

Australian!

I spent the weeeekend with a chop saw, 120" of 2 1/2"x .125", a 120" of 2"x .125" , a bench grinder, my Lincoln MIG 140, an angle grinder and nothing but trouble with the trucks' back end. Day-yam there is no place to get a MIG gun next to a frame rail. I will not post pictures because I am ashamed of the quality of my welds. They are not attractive.

+1

the strawberry milkshake of death hahaha yep... that's bad, if it looks like liquid strawberry juice then you should be good if the trans oil level is correct.

The best fix is to run new speaker wires from the new head unit, bypass the rear factory amp and go straight to the speakers. Boom! 4 ( or more speakers) good to go!

That's the intake boot, it's black rubber and held on with 2 big steel hose clamps. The IACV and air regulator are to the top of the photo, to the left of where "E.G.R control valve" is written They are bolted together: Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

I would go with epoxy since we use it often here in the shop but I have a welder and it's the only thing that will work around here at these temperatures. Besides we are coming up to the holiday season and I hope to be able to get some time to getter done! Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

Yeaaa ... there is some welding to be done for sure. I really need to commit 4 days to clean, prep, cut, fit and weld that back end and rockers... I just can't seem to find the 4 consecutive days. Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

Maybe mine just looks enough like crap ( what with the tools and wiring diagrams floating throughout the truck ) that no one wants to take it... even unlocked!

My thoughts are turning to a dirty air intake, dirty Idle Air Control Valve and a leaking intake boot ( caused by a tear in the bottom of the boot most likely) all kinda messy jobs to do but none that require anything other than hand tools, some time to do a good job, 1 new intake boot and 2 big cans of intake cleaner. When mine was doing this I had a warm weekend to do all of the above and the truck now purrs like a kitten in a good mood.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/38158-help-1994-pathfinder-stalling-issue/ is a good place to start reading, but it's going to take some time going through the engine bay with some tools to know for sure. The best thing to do is to start with the easy stuff and work your way through to the harder stuff. You should download one of these: http://diyservicemanuals.com/nissan-pathfinder-service-repair-manuals/ and read through it thoroughly I did!