SpecialWarr

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=817700&cc=1211993&jsn=446

Leave the timing belt on and get it on compression stroke for cylinder number 1, loosen, but don't remove, the spark plug once your crank marks are getting close to TDC. _Then_ check that the cam timing marks are correct AND count the number of teeth between them. Thanks Adamzan!

15 degrees BTDC; line up the marks on the two cams and the crank on cylinder #1 TDC compression stroke with the rotor pointing to the 11 o'clock position looking towards the back of the engine( remove the plug to get it to TDC and the tooth count should be 41 (43?)between the cam marks (as a reference)... I can't help your oil leak though! Everyone please correct anything I just said before ye get started though!

I pulled my door panel off and glued a piece of plastic sheet over both of the door vents in the front ( wife didn't like the cold air either) but found that the cold air was coming in from under the dash as well. Since I have some rust issues at the rear of the Pathy I noticed that if the vents next to the hatch were left open / uncovered it made it worse. I blocked off the vents into the cabin at the back and it made a remarkable improvement. Since you're in Alberta I suspect that you don't have the rusting issues that we do here in the east but it may help overall airflow in the cabin if you block / close the rear vents.

That's true adam.. we've been doing the run to the maritimes and Quebec City waaaay too much this year, what with the parents here and parents there, none well... I hope I can get a bit more west in the future...

Oh look! Damage multiplier!

Other than seeing the three others that are in occasional use around Montreal (including Pav's green one) I have yet to see another anywhere in Quebec/ Ottawa region. Making my WD21 just about the only daily driver. X-terras are a dime a dozen as seen in every kind of condition imaginable, pristine 2001 to beat 2006.... They just don't have the "cachet" of a WD21 yet.

There may be a problem with the pressure sensor or its wiring, a yank on the steering wheel should get the rpms to jump up to 1100 when the motor is still cold. At least, _mine_ jumps up to 1100 rpm when it's cold while getting out of a parking spot as I head off to work! The switch is bloody expensive at $92 from RockAuto though... so you may want to spend an hour or two looking at wiring before you go and throw parts at it!

Terranovation: can you expand on what you don't like about the Dexron3? and whether that's related to the general air temperature that you usually drive around in??

Terranovation might have the answer for you on that one.... maybe?

I don't really see how it's possible that _only_ #5 & 6 get cleaned by using the vacuum hose that goes to the brake booster.... it's an intake hose... it leads to the intake manifold and as such is not exclusive to one or two cylinders. It may clean those two a bit _more_ but unless there is something else going on inside the manifold all cylinders are fed air by it collectively.

I took another run at fixing the rear wiper and lost after 3 hours of trouble shooting and blowing fuses.... so it's just coming off because I do _not_ care that much anymore. And spent the weekend driving from one major city to another and back.

The guy to talk to about that would "our" Nissan parts guy: Alkorahil

And don't forget to let us know what it was and how the repair went!

I had a similar problem but your sounds like something is pulling the battery to ground through the starter...IF you have another vehicle you could pull the starter and have it checked at a good auto parts store. I suspect that it's a relay but I am suspicious of most relays to begin with!

I'll consult with my wife but later today but for now: Tentative Saturday early afternoon work for you?

I think you'll find that the pathfinder, whether 2wd or 4x4, will get about the same distance out of a tank of fuel. The rwd may have 150 lbs less running gear but that doesn't make much of a difference once it is up to speed, the motor is still a guzzlin at 12-15 mpg...

The computer ( from what I have read) is a learning computer but the drive cycle is set at 50 cycles initial and an additional 50 cycles to have a complete parameter guide. It should learn some settings within the first 10-15 drives and get "acquainted" with your driving in a 2-3 weeks period. after that it appears that it will re-learn some settings after the battery has been out for an hour or more..... this is just what I have noted over the last 4 years and $5000 of parts and installation of things! Low idle? 500 ish might be in need of a MAF cleaning / throttle body cleaning / a good rip onto the highway at full throttle to clear things up. MAybe an adjustment if those don't work.

Wisconsin..... that's a loooong way from Montreal.... that's unfortunate. Maybe Bushnut might be interested, since he's closer, although I don't know if he needs a frame!

If you need a hand moving machines over a weekend or two drop me a line I'll be happy to give you a hand! Sent from my Samsung LTE

Sold! Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

I have been playing with the parts finders on the internet and I see that the lower shaft / stub shaft for the steering column is not widely available, in fact, as far as I can tell my 2 options are an internet thrashing for the thing from a discount dealer online, or a local dealer. Knowing what I know about the exchange rate at this time ( 30% increase per dollar) it looks like I would be out $255 Canukistan dollars for the lower shaft UNLESS someone knows where or how I can get myself a tiny yoke looking thingy with splines on it for less. I would like to simply replace the u-joint....but it looks like that's not possible since I can't see any bolts, clips, wire rings or anything else that might let me pull it apart. Does anyone have one they would like to get rid of for the low low price of I'll-buy-you-a-beverage-or-a-dozen when we meet plus shipping? For a visual reference: ST-12 or so for the tilt type power steering lower shaft, ST-20 ish or ST-30 ish in the FSM; lower joint to 'stub shaft' (same part). I know what you're thinking: IT's the Idler Arm.... it's the centerlink! Nope.... checked on those this afternoon with my very capable assistant / wife Michele. Since I've just replaced the upper ball joints last week and both tie-rod assemblies also last week it can't be those either. The slop can be felt in the u-joint and it's kinda bothersome to drive around it. In fact, it's okay most of the time in the city but the truck spends 55% of its time on the highway and that makes it a problem that requires a resolution. Can you help a brother out or am I off to sell my other kidney??

God I love this forum.....I'll be headed out to make some tie-rods adjustments tomorrow morning if it decides to stop raining! Settle the truck back down after a dual tie-rod assembly install with upper ball joints on the side.

I have to agree with Slartibartfast"... would wait for it to set the CEL again, then stop and check codes without shutting it off and see if that helped it tell me what was wrong."