SpecialWarr

Aaaand that's why I want to move there!!

You can usually get a vehicle with _either_ a block heater or a battery warmer. I can actually say that I've never seen anyone who ran both at the same time. My VW, the Volvo and the Corolla wagon all had battery covers that were insulated but none had a battery heater. Since I use full synthetic oil I have no need for either the battery heater or the block heater, I also live in a 3rd floor apartment in the city and have no way of getting anything plugged into anywhere that isn't going to be stolen overnight by those little bastards that steal and scribble on walls.

Slowly repainting after rust repairs, frame repairs and body work that. I _might_ be done by the end of next summer!

This is what they look like new, on the right is the front shock, the clean bit is the strut / tension rod with new bushings, the long thing is the torsion bar. https://photos-1.dropbox.com/t/2/AADuB__QJ1Gzm5_hSdvYx8lmH8BXWIygDxzJUqMGJEmnyw/12/212783261/jpeg/256x256/1/_/1/2/20140804_160807.jpg/ELyRrqABGPUTIAIoAg/t7S-rt0CgJB6eGDnk87FV16TiS9ZrwaxLX31uDU9brQ?size_mode=3&size=2048x1536 This is what yours probably look like: https://photos-5.dropbox.com/t/2/AAA_vqip1plqvDq4aHnXUac4-lBN2jeFUM_WvME7FM86gg/12/212783261/jpeg/256x256/1/_/1/2/20140805_104135.jpg/ELyRrqABGPUTIAIoAg/GzCS3ObXpHmVZTAeSdoyGkeLk1OgUjEU_yHa3MjFjBE?size_mode=3&size=2048x1536

I would be down with a real cargo mat that was thick, firm and held in place WITH access to the tie-downs if it went from the rear hatch all the way to the top of the rear seats, but, alas, it was not to be. It would have made sliding in my welder, cutoff saw and engine hoist far easier.

Uhhh... multi - tone now.... Pontiac Cutlass burgundy on top, gloss fire red on the bottom/ around the rear wheel wells and on the rocker panels, matte black bed-liner on the hood and primer black on the front quatre panels...... and gonna stay that way until next summer.

Take a look around through the forum, all of your answers are there since many have done this and have every possible answer!

And sayyyyyy how MUCH would you want for that Pathfinder??

Wait... I thought "lifter tap" was caused by _worn_ lifters?? How does cleaning them out with a bit of ATF help?

Replaced the drivers' side disc brake pads in the rear, due to the stuck glide pins.... which ate the pad and mangled the inside of the new rotor. I swapped pads after an attempt at grinding down the rotor this summer but that only pushed back the pad change date to this weekend. Which is what I did, since I already lubed the glide pins once I beat them off of the carrier with a large hammer... unpleasant Saturday really. I also noticed some water in the passenger side footwell this morning, which means that the sunroof is still leaking and has maybe lead to the frame around the windshield to rust enough to leak, because of the stupid drain tubes being plugged again. Maybe if I just ? it won't be a problem??

I don't think using a banjo bolt ( your's with the hole through it) would have been my fourth choice..... maybe fifth or so but I would not have left that there for any length of time as a "repair"... But then I'm like most of the rest of us on here ( I assume like yourself 'mam) do it once, do it right the first time. Stuck out in the desert I would just go and pull a bolt off of a bracket or something as option #1, out of a fan blade retainer as option #2 and a seat bolt as option #3!!!

Those buttons are located about half-way down the back of the seat around the middle, they blend in quite well in my red interior since they are a dark grey. I pulled one out and there is a whole lotta thread on there so I suspect that they are, but I find the top of the seat too soft for my liking. My nephew's seat fit in well but it was new-ish and that's what us three boys used for our little trip into town. I left the install to my brother-in-law since he has much more experience! I cannot help you with your second question though!

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=817700&cc=1211993&jsn=446

Leave the timing belt on and get it on compression stroke for cylinder number 1, loosen, but don't remove, the spark plug once your crank marks are getting close to TDC. _Then_ check that the cam timing marks are correct AND count the number of teeth between them. Thanks Adamzan!

15 degrees BTDC; line up the marks on the two cams and the crank on cylinder #1 TDC compression stroke with the rotor pointing to the 11 o'clock position looking towards the back of the engine( remove the plug to get it to TDC and the tooth count should be 41 (43?)between the cam marks (as a reference)... I can't help your oil leak though! Everyone please correct anything I just said before ye get started though!

I pulled my door panel off and glued a piece of plastic sheet over both of the door vents in the front ( wife didn't like the cold air either) but found that the cold air was coming in from under the dash as well. Since I have some rust issues at the rear of the Pathy I noticed that if the vents next to the hatch were left open / uncovered it made it worse. I blocked off the vents into the cabin at the back and it made a remarkable improvement. Since you're in Alberta I suspect that you don't have the rusting issues that we do here in the east but it may help overall airflow in the cabin if you block / close the rear vents.

That's true adam.. we've been doing the run to the maritimes and Quebec City waaaay too much this year, what with the parents here and parents there, none well... I hope I can get a bit more west in the future...

Oh look! Damage multiplier!

Other than seeing the three others that are in occasional use around Montreal (including Pav's green one) I have yet to see another anywhere in Quebec/ Ottawa region. Making my WD21 just about the only daily driver. X-terras are a dime a dozen as seen in every kind of condition imaginable, pristine 2001 to beat 2006.... They just don't have the "cachet" of a WD21 yet.

There may be a problem with the pressure sensor or its wiring, a yank on the steering wheel should get the rpms to jump up to 1100 when the motor is still cold. At least, _mine_ jumps up to 1100 rpm when it's cold while getting out of a parking spot as I head off to work! The switch is bloody expensive at $92 from RockAuto though... so you may want to spend an hour or two looking at wiring before you go and throw parts at it!

Terranovation: can you expand on what you don't like about the Dexron3? and whether that's related to the general air temperature that you usually drive around in??

Terranovation might have the answer for you on that one.... maybe?

I don't really see how it's possible that _only_ #5 & 6 get cleaned by using the vacuum hose that goes to the brake booster.... it's an intake hose... it leads to the intake manifold and as such is not exclusive to one or two cylinders. It may clean those two a bit _more_ but unless there is something else going on inside the manifold all cylinders are fed air by it collectively.

I took another run at fixing the rear wiper and lost after 3 hours of trouble shooting and blowing fuses.... so it's just coming off because I do _not_ care that much anymore. And spent the weekend driving from one major city to another and back.