SpecialWarr

+1 on the above posts... the autos are the ones that tend to be guilty of the click/no start. I swapped my ignition assembly for a new one just to remove one other pain in my butt, I now have two keys a la old school GM / Ford.... one for the ignition and one for the locks!

I would be tugging on the main ground wire off of the battery for starters and then work my way to smaller wires. That sounds like no electrical circuit but if you can get us more detailed info we might be in a position to point you to a more specific location!

An .080" gap is big enough to check with the side of a 9/16" wrench!!!

I just bought a kit for mine online.... I don't recall it having any details about dimensions... just that it fit 87-95 Pathfinders. Grant, the sexyest steering wheels in da biznesssss!!!

I gapped mine before I put mine in ( lesson learned decades ago with my first car ). I gapped mine to about 36 thou. after I checked their gap. Of the 6 that I bought new the gap was everything from .0315" to .0395. I know that Bosch _claim_ that they spark and resistance test every plug to fit into a specific set of "performance parameters" but I'm calling bull@!*% on that. They may test one of every two hundred or so but I doubt they test every single one. The gap is specific to the spark plug, close the gap and less energy is needed to bridge it ( to get a spark. ) The pathfinder has a serious coil on it so you can run a wider gap if you like. .062 is a bit much in my opinion. I wouldn't hesitate to run the gap at .0450" though. I suspect your hesitation _may_ be due to the smaller gap and not enough time to get a complete burn of all of the fuel in the cylinder but there could be a hundred more reasons having nothing to do with what's going on in the cylinder for that to happen!

I actually ran mine out of fuel a couple of years ago.... I also forgot that I didn't have my spare 10 liters in the back. I was on my way to the gas station and in fact about 60 feet from the entrance when the truck actually ran out of fuel and died.... BUT all of the Pathfinders in North America came with a 21 gallon tank unless someone changed it. The 15 gallon one was just for the 4 cylinder d21 and I don't think I've ever seen one of those in the last year or so.

The exhaust studs that you want to replace (all of them really) should be replaced with those from a z31 (ZX300) of the same era... the heads will have to be drilled out and threaded for the 10mm bolts and is work but well worth the effort. Ask about oil changes in the transmission, not the engine. Has any work been done to the trans? The factory did NOT put enough oil into the trans when they were building them so the bearings and gears get starved for oil in 4th and 5th.... if there is the least amount of noise in the tranny or difficulty getting the gear to engage, that's the end-of-life for that trans. Take $750-$1000 off the price for a rebuilt trans. Bring a 10mm closed end wrench and pull the positive wire off of the battery and ground it (no you won't damage anything); put it back on, tighten it down and THEN get in and start the engine. If anything has been fiddled with this will re-set the capacitors and learned trouble-codes in the ECU, the TCU and oxygen sensor feedback. Take a few seconds and play with all of the knobs and buttons in the truck before taking off on the test drive. Do NOT turn the truck off before you've taken it for a test drive, you want all the trouble codes to be set before you turn it off. Make sure that you get it into top gear on the highway, feel for shaking and shimmy which are going to be symptoms of bad suspension bushings in the rear, tie-rods in the front, both or ball joints or all of the above. Back in the day this was the _best_ handling truck in it's class. if the front end is in good shape it should feel tight and light at the wheel with good feedback and sharp turn-in. Anything short of that is suspension work. That's about all I can give you, 'cause that's all I know!

Some of them were equipped with a dealer-installed alarm system and would have been bought with one but I don't think any were equipped with a fob from the factory 27 years ago!

I wouldn't worry too much about an alignment shop or general shop that isn't confident in their repair quality... Find a reputable body shop, they either have access to or know an automotive welder nearby; that's the person you want to see about a frame repair. As far as your hesitation goes: There is obviously something not good going on, but I would look at the trans oil level and take a smell of the trans fluid... it may have a blocked cooler ( warmer?) in the bottom of the radiator or low fluid level. If it smells burnt or like toast then it may be a good time for a flush.... but for $500 how much money do you want to put in it? I bought mine 4 years ago for $350 and spent $5000 in parts and tires only... my truck runs great and is as reliable as my Estwing hammer.

Slartibartfast Thanks for the point location on that one... I seem to be missing that page in my paper FSM... which I must have left at the cottage along with a few other pages out of the back of it...

Reviving this one from the dead: I can't find anything in the FSM about this override switch, so my question is: is it supposed to be normally open, normally grounded, or grounded closed or what ? Annnyone have an idea?

Ummm.... I can't think of a good reason other than I've never owned anything with drums before?

You may want to reconsider your approach to the front end treatment. I wholly advocate for Steve's spacers in the back, soooooper easy install. I tried the t-bar crank and re-index as it was suggested on here, I did not like the results. If you go with the t-bar crank be prepared for a more harsh and bouncy ride in the front. What you will have done is turn up the pre-load on the springs in the front without changing anything other than it's height in the back. It makes the truck too hoppity in the front, but that is just my opinion, using it as a daily driver and hardly off-roaded. I had to dial mine back just to be able to drive it around the city and I am now looking at installing UCAs from 4x4 parts to get the truck back from soooper raked out!.... seriously... it looks ridiculous.... like one of these: / .... welll. maybe not that bad.. but I'm going to change the UCAs just to be happy with the ride anyway.

Conversely: we could meet up somewhere around Oklahoma and I'll swap you my rear axle w/discs and LSD for your rear axle w/drums and LSD!

I have not tried that method yet but I will when another of my exhaust studs break! I _could_ weld a nut onto the remains of the stud but that sounds like work.... Why do that when you can let chemistry do the work for you?!!

Got one here in Montreal... 2 door XE... I, alas, do not own it.

I've had some good luck with WaterWeld but that kinda thing is out of the league of anything but full Red Green or a new base... JB Weld ain't gonna cut it this time!

Hahah... I figured.. but I thought I would be an excellent use of my time at work to write an example!!

I figure that ya just have to find a rock small enough to drive onto and big enough to get a drifting rod and a decent swing with a hammer from the bottom of the hinge..... no?

I simply disabled mine since I'm the only person who is in my truck 999999 times out of 1000000..... I suppose that it's an electrical ground issue since that is a very common ( sic! ) fault with the electrical systems on the truck but I have yet to look into it. The weather is deep winter here in Canada so ya don't go out to look around for electrical faults at -10 C. It's too damn cold for that!

I don't know if I'm that coordinated. To be able to hold a nut tight onto the head with a pair of pliers, wedge a MIG gun in there and be able to see what you're doing demands, I think, a bit more than I am capable of!!