SpecialWarr

Reviving this one from the dead: I can't find anything in the FSM about this override switch, so my question is: is it supposed to be normally open, normally grounded, or grounded closed or what ? Annnyone have an idea?

Ummm.... I can't think of a good reason other than I've never owned anything with drums before?

You may want to reconsider your approach to the front end treatment. I wholly advocate for Steve's spacers in the back, soooooper easy install. I tried the t-bar crank and re-index as it was suggested on here, I did not like the results. If you go with the t-bar crank be prepared for a more harsh and bouncy ride in the front. What you will have done is turn up the pre-load on the springs in the front without changing anything other than it's height in the back. It makes the truck too hoppity in the front, but that is just my opinion, using it as a daily driver and hardly off-roaded. I had to dial mine back just to be able to drive it around the city and I am now looking at installing UCAs from 4x4 parts to get the truck back from soooper raked out!.... seriously... it looks ridiculous.... like one of these: / .... welll. maybe not that bad.. but I'm going to change the UCAs just to be happy with the ride anyway.

Conversely: we could meet up somewhere around Oklahoma and I'll swap you my rear axle w/discs and LSD for your rear axle w/drums and LSD!

I have not tried that method yet but I will when another of my exhaust studs break! I _could_ weld a nut onto the remains of the stud but that sounds like work.... Why do that when you can let chemistry do the work for you?!!

Got one here in Montreal... 2 door XE... I, alas, do not own it.

I've had some good luck with WaterWeld but that kinda thing is out of the league of anything but full Red Green or a new base... JB Weld ain't gonna cut it this time!

Hahah... I figured.. but I thought I would be an excellent use of my time at work to write an example!!

I figure that ya just have to find a rock small enough to drive onto and big enough to get a drifting rod and a decent swing with a hammer from the bottom of the hinge..... no?

I simply disabled mine since I'm the only person who is in my truck 999999 times out of 1000000..... I suppose that it's an electrical ground issue since that is a very common ( sic! ) fault with the electrical systems on the truck but I have yet to look into it. The weather is deep winter here in Canada so ya don't go out to look around for electrical faults at -10 C. It's too damn cold for that!

I don't know if I'm that coordinated. To be able to hold a nut tight onto the head with a pair of pliers, wedge a MIG gun in there and be able to see what you're doing demands, I think, a bit more than I am capable of!!

I have just been shown the way of gods to remove a broken stud.... I subscribe to this guy, good for laughs: https://youtu.be/fqZYgReuywM

Let's use it in an example! 1 N-m = 8.85 IN-lbs 10 IN-lbs = 1.13 N-m 16 Newton-meters is what in inch pounds? 16 x 8.85in-lbs = 141 in-lbs according to my torque wrench...math says 141.6 Working backwards from 140 inch-pounds? 140 inch-pounds x 0.113 Newton-meters = 15.82 Newton-Meters OR 142 inch-pounds x 0.112985 Newton- meters (for exactness) = 16.04 Newton- meters.... Which works out to slightly snugger than hand-choked-up-all-the-way-to-the-socket-with-three-fingers-pulling force! Or just hit the google!

Mine was held in place with some stainless steel clamps with a #2 Phillips, I kept the clamps and replaced the hose with a piece of high pressure fuel line ( total cost of $0.89 ) because I was already in there and replacing a stuck injector anyway..

Aaaaannnnnnnnnddddddd..... what was the issue??

And for the mathematically proficient: 1 FT-lbs = 12 IN-lbs 1 FT-lbs = 1.35 N-m 1 N-m = 8.85 IN-lbs 10 IN-lbs = 1.13 N-m

I believe that the 1993 _is_ the first year of the factory dash CEL.. but if you take off the dash, you'll see that there is a spot for a light.... I have one on my 1990.

Bought one from Canadian Tire three summers ago and put mayyyybeeee an hour on the motor since then. Pulled it out and the motor windings separated themselves from the contacts at the base of the motor within 30 seconds of lighting it up. Since I was in the middle of needing it, I just left it in the basement and kept going with the damn wire wheel. I knew that I didn't have enough time to drive for an hour to get another one. All of the other ones are $150 at the local Home Hardware, Rona and Marcil.... I don't have that kinda money so wire wheel it was going to be!

I spent most of Saturday guesstimating, cutting out, and preping steel bits for a long overdue frame repair. Passenger side just in front of the rear wheel, over the trailing arm bracket (inside and outside) and the bottom section from the bracket forwards to the crossmember and a small reinforcement for the body mount. In total, 6 separate pieces of cold rolled 1018, cut, trimmed, fitted, deburred, sanded, cleaned, tacked in place and welded on after 2 hours of rust removal with a cordless drill and a wire wheel ( that was all that I had other than a 4" square piece of sand paper).... Two days later and I am still sore from all of that.... didn't take a single photo either.

I put clean oil on the top surface of the seal area, spin it on until it makes initial contact with the cleaned block ( yes, I wipe it down with my last clean rag) tighten it with just my fingers and then snug it another 1/2 turn with my wrist.... which works out to tight-enough-to remove-with-difficulty when you change it..... unless you're using Mobil1 filters.... in which case 1 full turn after initial contact, no more than that.

Pulled into the local Canadian Tire because I have a leak at the brake line.... which I discovered on the highway in traffic.... and left it there for repairs. I do _not_ work on cars below 5 degrees Celsius unless I have to Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

Amazon says that it will NOT fit a 2WD but I can't think of a reason why not since there is more stuff to work around on a 4WD.