SpecialWarr

I would start with a serious cleaning of the entire intake , MAF and throttle body. It should be relatively inexpensive and not take more then 2 hours to get them all clean. After that I would be looking at the fuel pressure regulator on the back of the lower intake next to the firewall just to see if it has its hose still attached.

I ended up grabbing my #2 ( stuck injector ) with a pair of pliers and twisting with one hand while levering with a big flatblade or something with the other hand. It did come out but only after about 30 minutes of wrestling with it. I couldn't manage to get the area that clean so I had to be really careful while changing that injector. I had a helofatime getting it back in though.... no one told me that you lubricate the o-rings with fuel before ya re-install.... oh well.

I have to agree with the rest of the gang that $3500 is high for dry rotted tires and seals with a random miss and a clutch that needs an adjustment. I would head west (or look to the west) and shop over there for a better shape WD21; but that's my two cents worth!

I just put in a Bluetooth speaker into the hole from the old stereo.... play music off of my phone, no commercials and I get to listen to music I like!

I did the same but moved my "new" ground to just under the relay bank next to the MAF.

Cuong Nguyen He's a good guy to have on the site!!

A lift kit isn't needed to fit 32" wheel for the most part ( external circumference will be the determining factor). I pulled mine off and stepped down to a 31" with stiffer sidewalls since We have a lot of sharp granite and mud around my part of North America so thin sidewalls and lots of volume doesn't help any around here. (Sold those tires last year.) They _may_ buzz for a micro-second at full compression but other than that I had no trouble pulling out of a tiny space in the underground parking at my apartment building at the time. They never touched the fender flares or rubbed on anything else while I drove them around. That's about all I can give you on the 32" tire scene! No cutting or trimming was needed anywhere to get them to fit.

That mirror looks like the one off of the chrome kit from 1993/ 1994... I don't know if was available as a "kit" or whether it was supplied stock. I have seen a picture like with a similar finish floating around on the wikipedia commons but I think it's a stock mirror with a spray-on chrome finish. That one has a different mount from the stock factory now that I look at it more closely. Maybe it's off of something else??

There was some discussion last year about which amp powered which speakers but since they come in so many different configurations I don't even know which one powers which in my own Pathfinder, wiring is different for each speaker set-up as well which also adds to the confusion. Most folks have, from what I can figure out, run wires from a new / different head unit and bypass the amps.

Just kidding around boss.... Everyone else appeared to be all over this anyway. I've just never seen those things anywhere near a car!

I had that kinda thing going on and discovered it was my front wheel bearings that were done. Once you get moving the individual bearings rotate into a balanced position by themselves and no longer make noise but when they are warmed up they have enough room to drop down the sides of the bearing making a nasty noise until they place themselves further apart while rolling.... just my two cents, and set of bearings worth. Unlike the rear bearings the front ones are tapered cage held in place with a locknut, 45 minutes a side for this first-timer (first wheel bearing ever changed on a car/truck/motorcycle) but easy as pie! Snap ring pliers, 6mm hex key, #2 Phillips/ star screwdriver, needlenose pliers, maybe a flatblade and hammer fi you're feeling really enthusiastic and want to change the races.

Or you could spend $7 at The Source for a variable potentiometer and 3 minutes installing it.

Those are use to hang large pictures in frames on yer house walls..... you punch a hole through the drywall stuff the thing folded up into the hole and use the threaded part to attach a large picture hanger from..... which is why you have two of them in your oil pan.

Yep I'm with silverton on this one as well... unlesss... you stop to fill up when the light on the dash lights up for the first time? The truck ( and the electrical engineer who thought this was a good idea ) has this thing where it will light up the "low fuel" light on the dash a first time when there is still 5 gallons left.... that's 20% of the whole tank. That's when my wife starts looking for fuel stations to fill up the truck. That's also good for another 75 miles or so of driving if everything is mechanically alright with the truck ( barring a clogged carbon canister). So if we add that to the 186 miles that you have and the 3 gallons or so from 1/4 to E mark, another 55 miles or so, that is deep into the 300 miles per tank.

LOL!!

I think what you're referring to is a combination of the ECU and an assembly of things inside the distributor. There is an LED, under the rotor base plate, that shines a light at a metal ring with slots in it, the light triggers a diode which sends an ON-OFF signal to the ECU which determines the timing of the primary winding collapse and spark event to the plug. Uhh...AND: the ECU is located under the front passenger's seat. Okay.. yea... ummm.. that's it then.

Well surprise of all surprises the voltage regulator in the back of the dash is acting up, I'm getting a good feed from the temp and fuel and then I hit a pothole in a corner... or look away and when I look baaaack... voila! no readings on either of them. Do we want to take bets on which wire it is? Winner gets a beverage! I think I'm going to wait until the weekend to look around since I just filled it with fuel this afternoon, I know I can get back and forth this week on what's in the tank. Until then: post yer guesses and maybe win a prize!

A body lift sounds like a lot of work but it's going to happen anyway to get the MIG in there.... anyone know a place where I can get 50 hockey pucks for cheap?!! LOL!

"actually hit the ground" That must have been a bit of a shock kdj! I'm hoping that I can carefully pull the body off enough to get a MIG gun in between the body and the frame near the center mount at a reasonable angle to weld bits together. I know that I have to get this done this year; the beast will not make it through another winter in it's current state. On a lighter but not much better note: it looks like the noise in the back is another stuck brake piston ( or is that the same piston that's stuck again? I can't remember.). So that is a pain in the bum that I would like to fix, but it's not a priority.

adamzan you do NOT want to see the frame rust.... it is almost frightening! I'll tell ya what though, I'll take before, during and after pictures of the fit-up and weld-up while I'm doing the frame repair at the cottage... this summer. Would anyone like dimensions and angles ( I assume that I'll not be the only person doing this in the future)?? My current plan is to do C.A.D (cardboard aided drawing) for each section from about the rear of the front door area to the rear bumper on the inside and top of the frame (since that is where most of the hard stuff to measure is) and remove most of the serious rust and pretty much all of the bottom section that I haven't yet removed. That's plan A. It's going to be most of my weekends (rainy and cold ones too) from April until I'm done; given sufficient cash to buy 4.5" x 0.125" in 8 foot (ish) sections for both sides and 2.5" x 0.125" in the same length for the top and bottom sections. I should go with the cold rolled 1018 like I did with last years' temporary repair ( in case anyone was wondering). I will have to get a plasma cutter though, there is going to be a whole lot of that.... maybe I can get a beer sponsor while I'm at it!

Good man!

Wasn't there a guy who posted on here in late 2014 with this same problem? I recall it was his VSS wiring that was at the root cause, maybe I'm confusing a couple of posts though. I guess the first thing to check is that the rotor is tight and keyed to the shaft, after that I would check that the hold-down bolt is snug with some play in both directions. After that there is a procedure to set the base timing from the download-able FSM. After that I can't help ya!

Mine had a broken connector and I'd had an odd problem like this, I just bought a new one and swapped it in ten minutes, touched up the slide pins inside the connector and it hasn't moved in 2 years.

Yessir! It's the same engine and parts from 1990 through to 1995. Although I believe that there is a VSS and a different speedometer from 1993- up which was not available / replaced by something else on the 1990-1992. That is all I know of that is different.