SpecialWarr

Those are use to hang large pictures in frames on yer house walls..... you punch a hole through the drywall stuff the thing folded up into the hole and use the threaded part to attach a large picture hanger from..... which is why you have two of them in your oil pan.

Yep I'm with silverton on this one as well... unlesss... you stop to fill up when the light on the dash lights up for the first time? The truck ( and the electrical engineer who thought this was a good idea ) has this thing where it will light up the "low fuel" light on the dash a first time when there is still 5 gallons left.... that's 20% of the whole tank. That's when my wife starts looking for fuel stations to fill up the truck. That's also good for another 75 miles or so of driving if everything is mechanically alright with the truck ( barring a clogged carbon canister). So if we add that to the 186 miles that you have and the 3 gallons or so from 1/4 to E mark, another 55 miles or so, that is deep into the 300 miles per tank.

LOL!!

I think what you're referring to is a combination of the ECU and an assembly of things inside the distributor. There is an LED, under the rotor base plate, that shines a light at a metal ring with slots in it, the light triggers a diode which sends an ON-OFF signal to the ECU which determines the timing of the primary winding collapse and spark event to the plug. Uhh...AND: the ECU is located under the front passenger's seat. Okay.. yea... ummm.. that's it then.

Well surprise of all surprises the voltage regulator in the back of the dash is acting up, I'm getting a good feed from the temp and fuel and then I hit a pothole in a corner... or look away and when I look baaaack... voila! no readings on either of them. Do we want to take bets on which wire it is? Winner gets a beverage! I think I'm going to wait until the weekend to look around since I just filled it with fuel this afternoon, I know I can get back and forth this week on what's in the tank. Until then: post yer guesses and maybe win a prize!

A body lift sounds like a lot of work but it's going to happen anyway to get the MIG in there.... anyone know a place where I can get 50 hockey pucks for cheap?!! LOL!

"actually hit the ground" That must have been a bit of a shock kdj! I'm hoping that I can carefully pull the body off enough to get a MIG gun in between the body and the frame near the center mount at a reasonable angle to weld bits together. I know that I have to get this done this year; the beast will not make it through another winter in it's current state. On a lighter but not much better note: it looks like the noise in the back is another stuck brake piston ( or is that the same piston that's stuck again? I can't remember.). So that is a pain in the bum that I would like to fix, but it's not a priority.

adamzan you do NOT want to see the frame rust.... it is almost frightening! I'll tell ya what though, I'll take before, during and after pictures of the fit-up and weld-up while I'm doing the frame repair at the cottage... this summer. Would anyone like dimensions and angles ( I assume that I'll not be the only person doing this in the future)?? My current plan is to do C.A.D (cardboard aided drawing) for each section from about the rear of the front door area to the rear bumper on the inside and top of the frame (since that is where most of the hard stuff to measure is) and remove most of the serious rust and pretty much all of the bottom section that I haven't yet removed. That's plan A. It's going to be most of my weekends (rainy and cold ones too) from April until I'm done; given sufficient cash to buy 4.5" x 0.125" in 8 foot (ish) sections for both sides and 2.5" x 0.125" in the same length for the top and bottom sections. I should go with the cold rolled 1018 like I did with last years' temporary repair ( in case anyone was wondering). I will have to get a plasma cutter though, there is going to be a whole lot of that.... maybe I can get a beer sponsor while I'm at it!

Good man!

Wasn't there a guy who posted on here in late 2014 with this same problem? I recall it was his VSS wiring that was at the root cause, maybe I'm confusing a couple of posts though. I guess the first thing to check is that the rotor is tight and keyed to the shaft, after that I would check that the hold-down bolt is snug with some play in both directions. After that there is a procedure to set the base timing from the download-able FSM. After that I can't help ya!

Mine had a broken connector and I'd had an odd problem like this, I just bought a new one and swapped it in ten minutes, touched up the slide pins inside the connector and it hasn't moved in 2 years.

Yessir! It's the same engine and parts from 1990 through to 1995. Although I believe that there is a VSS and a different speedometer from 1993- up which was not available / replaced by something else on the 1990-1992. That is all I know of that is different.

It's discs at all four wheels... the problem is that I had new pins and bolts installed 2 years ago and I looked at them yesterday. All nice and smooth. So yep, it looks like it's going to be the (eeewwwww) CR-V.

Welllll it looks like it almost time to pull up and take the Pathy off the road for a while. I have some serious rust issues that need to be taken acre of ASAP. I have also noticed just this week that I have an unpleasant rubbing (unlike certain kinds of pleasant rubbing!) happening in the back axle area. Whatever is unhappy does appear to be cooking brake pads so I suspect that it's a wheel bearing, my only hope is that it is the E-brake pads that have popped a spring. So do I keep driving it for the rest of the week and take a look at it over the weekend or should I take the (eewww) CR-V?

I've been lurking on some local jeep forums (!!!!!) to get my info around Montreal / Hawkesbury / Mt Tremblant area.... there must be a jeep club somewhere nearby jacksonville!

Depending on the condition of the pump, it could be a quiet whirring sound with the rear seats up and stuff in the back. It gets quite noticeable with the seats all the way down with the carpet pulled up and the cover off. Grab the key, lock the driver's side seatbelt and turn the ignition to ON (second detent) and you should hear only the pump run for two seconds or so. Obviously have the radio off before you start this very precise procedure, since it can never be replicated! LOL!

You could go and check to see if the strip of plastic on the middle support is still there. If it is, the rack has an adjustment to increase the tension on the rack at that location, but 5523Pathfinder is correct.... it needs a rebuild.

Yep, that clover, my guardian angels and the 3 lives that I have left over are all on duty full time! Thanks again, you guys know I really have no electrical skills at all so without my support network (haha!) I would be lost.... AAnnd I still owe adamzan a call!

Thanks for the help guys... I really appreciate the gurus that help out!! You guys rock!

And a $35 analog multi-meter solves the problem..... the digital one is is need of maintenance. Digital reads 8.9v.... analog 12.6 on the terminals, 14.7-ish running and 13.7 with high beams, lights, every switch and light on with the wipers running..... problem? crappy tire digital multi-meter!! Saved by Rona Hardware store analog meter! Although I'm sure the ground that I made for the alternator case was helpful... somehow. Now to clean up the inside of the truck and the living room.

I always test both on the top of the battery terminals and off of the clamps before I do anything electrical. I had a full charge into the battery before I installed it this morning, installed a new ground wire for the alternator after, started it up, backed it up a couple of parking spots and checked voltage at the battery terminals... 8.90v.... checked the alt case to the positive terminal.... 10.23v while running. I just pulled the terminals off and check voltage my meter reads 1.483v... then I switch the range and it reads 8.92.... are you thinking what I'm thinking?

As you may have read elsewhere, my starter died a couple of weeks ago, so I had it replaced at a garage. When I got it back it drove around fine until the beginning of this week when it appeared that the battery was dying. I replaced it with a new one under warranty at Canadian Tire on Monday and have been driving it around since then with only one strange issue: I have had the meter in the dash reading 13.6 - 13.8 volts since Monday. The rebuilt alternator that I bought 18 months ago didn't look bad and definitely had power going to it (sparked pulling off the power wire... oops... grounded that wrench for a second!). Which brings me to the question at hand: since the starter, alternator and battery are all new.... how is it that I have only 9.8 volts between the terminals on the battery after 4 days of driving around? any things I should have looked at and didn't, broken grounds didn't really make themselves apparent since there were only 4 cables to undo and reattach and they all appeared good. Oh masters of the electrical diagnostics bestow upon me an answer please!! I pay beer!

http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-column-assy-ste~48805-88g64.html Nothing says how many splines anywhere I can find, but if it fits everything from a 1987 D21 to a 1995 WD21 then I would say go for it if it isn't too expensive. I could pull my Grant wheel off and count them if you are really not sure.