SpecialWarr

Ummm... you may not want that one now.... It has a mounting hole that uh... mysteriously has broken.... somehow! In reality I totally forgot that we were going to swap fenders, sorry about that man.

I decided to remove the anti-sway bar bolts on Ernest this morning after dealing with two weeks of Goodyear Wrangler Territory 31" tire abuse coming through the suspension. Dear lord what a difference! I drove it around the block, through the alley and over the speed humps to try it out.... WOW... what an awesome ride! Smooth as buttered glass! I think I may just remove both bars and call it even.

Well, It looks like the wife and I agree that a kinda low-gloss black with a 20" red (metal-flake?) stripe from front to back is probably going to be the paint job after the body is welded up and tweaked at the end of next spring. Thanks for the input everyone!

There is an idle-relearn procedure in the FSM available to download for free on this forum, start there! As for what the problem is I have: the Idle Air Control Valve threaded out too far causing fouling, a Mass Air sensor that has a weak ground ( that one has been covered on here many times) or a dirty intake / plugged PCV valve / missing vacuum line on the fuel regulator ( at the back of the intake next to the firewall).... I'm not in any way a mechanic but I do own a now-running Pathfinder thanks to some of the other folks on this forum!

So lemme see here... you turn it on ( fuel pump whirring?) it cranks, didn't run, ran for a sec, then ran for 10 seconds. Can I assume correctly that the two wire plug ( orange and black connector) on the "electrical tower" on the passenger side valve cover is unplugged, that the TPS is also unplugged and that you've checked that there is a good ground for the MAF? With all of that you should be able to teach the computer that - and where - you want the engine to idle with the IACV screw. IF it doesn't turn over and run then you'll need to go over everything in detail again. That's all I can help!

The best way to learn to weld is to do. Try welding tips and tricks ( also on YouTube), Jody is a great welder and I can only hope to be that good someday. Make sure that you use an insulating / shielding gas since it will help with quality and finish (and buy the big tank because it doesn't go bad and will still be useful as long as there is electricity!).

IN order of what I have noticed helping: 1) Headers 2) 2.5" exhaust full length 3) turbo 4) new plugs 5) 8mm silicone plug wires with clean connectors WITH dielectric grease on ALL connections (yes, it makes a difference) 6) spotlessly clean intake all the way to the heads 7) removing the crap sitting in the truck... all of it... all 50 lbs. And while I don't have a turbo installed I did meet a guy who gave me a short ride through a parking lot with his turbo'ed R50 3.4L. I reality if you want free speed remove ALL the weight in the car that is not required to turn on the motor or keep it running.... that's what a race car is.

I was helping a friend to build an LED sensor kit for his sump pump and we discovered that many LEDs do need an inline resistor to punt to voltage up or down into a definite state. The LEDs themselves don't draw enough resistance to do that without help and will sit with one foot in both states. As current will find the path of least resistance and take it; in this case: both paths are most likely being taken. Usually a small resistor equal to about 40% of the LEDs amperage will pop it into a definite state.

I would suspect the do-dad inside the tank or possibly its wiring. I had mine replaced by a local race mechanic ( beer carries a lot of weight around here ) mostly because I was in my busy season but also because I hate smelling like a fuel depot for a few days. It costs but it's worth the money if you have a good guy nearby.

AHAaaa... but they are one of the few vehicles ever built that raced, fully stock, and finished in the Top 10! And yes ragnor they are a bit on the slow side but they will keep going for 400000miles if you do your maintenance (including the strut bushings on the front lower control arm)

Although I have to say that an old outer wheel bearing race is just the right size to replace the inner bushing plate. welds on like a champ and compresses and "actually" puts tension on the bushings!

Dear god my vehicle is an embarrassment after seeing that picture.

Look at the bright side: at least both of yours were attached! I drove home with the threaded half of one in the truck and the other looking like yours before I changed mine.

That a short way into the auto trans section, mine ( for the 1990 book) starts on AT-46 with a symptom chart on AT-89. make sure you watch the POWER light on the dash when you're looking for codes! I didn't have a pencil and paper the first time but I have every time since; I highly recommend having them handy.

Hah.. filter my A**.... that thing is lucky that I call it a screeeenn.

Interesting problem, I haven't run into this yet but I wonder whether some of the others have. Although I admit that it could be an electrical issue with the VSS. I think the temp gauge is unrelated but may lead you to a bad ground ( they seem to be rampant on these trucks).

Agreed with adamzan, I do the same and I haven't heard a peep out of them even when my wife drives. (The usual exchange reads: wife "Honey, why doesn't the car turn?" me "Keep pulling on the steering wheel until it stops dear." wife " oh.... it doesn't turn very well does it?" me "ahh...no....not yet.")

Love the wheels!

I tried a 15" one once but spent some time tuning the inside bit so that it wouldn't rub on the glass handle.... and in all reality should have just gotten the correct 13". Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

Hmm... not too sure. My first thought was that cable might be sticky or binding somewhere but that just because I work on bicycles all day. I was thinking while writing that perhaps there is a lip on the inside part of the drum section that is no longer aligned with the brake pads which causes them to ride up on it before dropping into the drum, but that's just my opinion. I hope that someone who has more experience can help!

I guess the only other thing is an internal problem with the transmission which could be a solenoid, stuck ball switch thingy or .... something else. There is a diagnostic section in the FSM, though I haven't looked specifically for anything in regards to the O/D.

Yea that is your oil pressure sensor. It should have a single wire with a female spade connector going to it. I the wire on my 1990 is a 20ga yellow with a single black stripe.

My 1990 had them and were changed for something less expensive, I note that I have only 3 of the 4 plugs still attached to the truck. I have the SE with a lot of options installed and its an early ( May / 1990) SE...

I had the same problem and traced mine to 2 different issues: 1) the wiring to the power window amplifier in the passenger footwell was so corroded that the wire pulled itself out when I was messing with the blower housing. ( no up/down at all); 2) the wires that go to the door switch were worn through from road vibration and grounded out when I moved the amplifier, but would occasionally contact as soon as I wiggled the harness a bit. I re-wired the complete door harness and power window amplifier.... and hated every minute of it... but it works like a champ from both sides!