SpecialWarr

Are f'in kidding me? That is so not fair.

The plate may be a gear interface spacer so that the driver gear off of the starter hit the center of the tooth on the flywheel. Separating the motor and trans is serious physical work. Don't even bother getting started unless you are feeling motivated and have lots of time. I found that a tiny bit of tension on the hoist and having the hoist holding the chain in a neutral position makes it way easier to get the two apart. Work around (literally) the bellhousing with a small thin blade, you'll find a place that's it's easier to push the blade in. Stuff it in and leave it there then grab another blade (same size or a bit thicker) and find the opposite spot of the first one. Then work that one into the split. Head back to the first one and see if you can make more room to get a wider thing in there and the keep going back and forth... then start yanking on the motor like you need to save someone. It "should" pop off the pins and just be hanging there.... having 6'8" and 300lbs friends also helps to make things go faster. That's about all I can think of but we're here for you if you get stuck! sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

Congratulations 5523Pathfindern!! Nice action shot! sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

Hehehh... ain't that the truth!! sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

Noooo... '84 escort....????? sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

And I'm sure there will be persons on a certain forum who will be interested in anything that may not fit on your next ride.... sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

Found it! Secondary air tube that leads up and back towards the firewall had a split above the clamp. I chopped off a bit and pulled it down, set the old clamp in a new position and bingo! waaayy less "crap vehicle" sound.... waayy more "tuff truck" sound!!! Again, thank you gentle-folk for the help....beers on me when we meet! sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

Since the wheels mount lug-centric I assume that they didn't change that for the XTerra, so I would just need to make sure that there clearance for the brakes, fender and hub.... sweeeet

Is that an easy one or did nissan change spacing from my '90 wd21, offset or hub diameter?? I ask because there is someone selling 4 wheels and tires for a decent price!

Yea that looks a bit funny. I noticed that the PO of mine had the spring perches welded in the rear (not suprising given the salt around here in Montreal). You might want to measure yours and try to figure out if something has moved.... that should be in the BL section of the FSM..... Just an idea from a guy! sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

From what I've seen 2" of clearance is enough to start jacking the motor up. The trans has a tapered receptor for the tube that sticks out of the torque converter. That 2" is more than enough to start jacking the motor to clear the hardlines. Again, not that I've done that on a pathy but there is space there for a reason!

My condolences to his family, girlfriend and everyone else that lost a good buddy. sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

Yep... snow....last night at 3-ish when I was up there were flakes floating around! Would intake cleaner not be recommended? I have some sensor cleaner that lights up quite nicely ( :-)) but I also like the cleaning power of the intake clean.

I haven't yet pulled the motor out of a Pathfinder with an auto trans. but I would think that it's not that different from a Subaru. Since it's a 2wd you should be able to pull the motor forward a few inches away from the trans. Leave the trans fully bolted in place, there are, most likely 2 or more pins that locate the motor to the trans plus the bolts that attach them together. The pins are a tight fit and do not allow for much in the way of wiggle room..... 0.003" at most. The motor has to be pulled away from the trans at the exact angle of the pins otherwise it will give the impression of being stuck there. Try not to wedge anything small in the gap between the two, instead try a putty knife first, then two putty knives. The torque converter looks like a huge doughnut with a 2" tube coming out of the "hole" and may come out with the engine. Do NOT let the trans fluid run out of it if you can and try not to turn the tube coming out of it if you can. Aligning that tube is hard enough when the motor goes back in. Exhaust....hmmm....I'm not sure. I would remove the manifolds from the engine if they weren't so delicate.... I'll leave that up to you... Last tip from a guy who pulled the motor out of a Subaru: if it doesn't look like it's going anywhere rock the crankshaft to get things aligned when you are getting things back together! sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

You should "help them" with their "correct" brake calipers Alkorahil.... that might begin to remove some of the less than desirables from the road ;-) sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

I'm not a real mechanic but the p0138 sounds like a bad oxygen sensor. Easy to change just make sure you get a nissan oem for its correct voltage range. The p0456 evap can is most likly a small hole in the tubing. Also an easy fix. The p1491 is beyond my experience....anyone else have ideas?? sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

Hmmm...unmetered air leak after the MAF...that could be a torn gasket then after I pulled the plenum or a hole in the intake tube.... it's cold today and looks like it's going to snow again this weekend (seriouly... it's f@$#ing late April!!) So I'm going to have to wait until it warms up to tear into it again. I'll keep posting up progress reports until I fix it or die trying!! Thanks for the pointers gents! sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

Good luck buddy. Don't take a straight no for an acceptable answer! ! sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

It looks like a good idea to me. It will surely cut down on water usage. It seems to me that the first step in regular car maintenance is the wash and wax, if that's done away with (for the most part) does that then mean that changing the oil and checking that all 4 tires are well inflated are next? sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

I wish that was still the case here but there were too many street racers importing JDM stuff so _now_ it's illegal to have a LHD..... sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

Just as soon as someone mentions anything there is going to be a unholy apocalyptic destruction of that area.... because everyone will know it's there.... like me! And I'll drive down there just for the after noon to play with the truck in the mud!

MAF ground wire issue is the first thing that comes into my head. It is a known problem. What brand is the oxygen sensor, it must be a nissan or it will run like crap. That's all I can think of. sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

I thought I would make a short video with the engine running and see if I could get a diagnostic from the hive mind here.... since I'm not a real mechanic... https://db.tt/v4ynsDoy

Yea there is lots of great stuff on here! The Garage section and the How-To are awesome....I would say that 97% of trouble can be repaired with those two sections alone. sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder

I finally decided to re-attach the transfer case leather boot to the e-brake / transmission console, clean the beast out after moving last month and apply some anti-rust gloss black to the rocker panels and spare tire rack. I was also sufficiently annoyed with the rest of the glue from the "For Sale" sign being stuck on the windows that I took intake cleaner to it and removed it. Aaaaannnddd then I cleaned up the hack-job trailer wiring! Ahhh, now I can relax for the weekend. sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder