SpecialWarr

A suspension lift is super easy on our trucks, you look for the "how to re-index your tension rods" in the how-to section here on the forum, and swap the rear springs for the front ones of Jeep Grand Cherokee (check that one in the garage section). and in about 2 hours you have a 3"suspension lift. Body is just swap the body pucks with taller ones and their new bolts..... and none of this is easy if you live in the rust belt states.... because of the rust.

I'm guessing it's a manual?

I believe that the whole 15 gallon fuel tank is on that side! The white tank at the back in the middle is for the WD21 and the gray 15 gallon one on the right (although moved too far forward in the image) is for the D21.

There is Safe-T-Cap as well, while there isn't anything listed on their site in parts I'll let you know if they still make them tomorrow when I call them

I've had good luck with eBay, cheaper than rockauto!

I think the Slim Jim is the only answer on that one. I can't see any other way to get to the internals without wrecking the door card.

Hmm....Mine runs at about 2350-2400 with 31" tires, a stock automatic transmission with the LSD in the back at that speed.

JIMMYBAJA SUSPENSION, NISSAN SUPERFLEX SPRING NISSAN FRAME KIT COLUMBUS OHIO 43223 614 -470- 2356- OR 614 276 1834 TIME FORE THE BEATER NISSANS TO PREVAIL. UTUBE VIDEO=JIMMYBAJAKIT. WILL NOT RESPOND TO EMAILS That's the only one I've ever heard of.

Good call K9sar!

I would go with a loose wire for sure. I still have to clean mine out and get it working again. Rustproofing a truck makes everything under it an unidentifiable mess so I'm not too inclined to get started on that.

I spent Saturday lying on the ground / getting up to get a tool or part out of the passenger seat / lying down again and installing the correct size transmission cooler lines into my new flexible copper line that is now my new transmission cooler.... located in FRONT of the radiator. I did this because the PO had used fuel hose at 3/8" which is retarded too big. So even after I fixed them last week they still spewed oil all over the parking lot. I bought a marine transmission case hand pump (which threads right onto the top of a 1 liter bottle) and filled the 5/16" copper tubing and the 5/16" transmission hose (if anyone needs some just PM me) before putting it on. It is VERY helpful to plug the ends before moving the thing around though * wipes oil off of his arm and hand * I've since driven about 100kms and no leaks, weeps or misting! YAY! Successful adventure!

Conversely: It is possible to remove the ECU from its location under the passenger seat and mount it in the passenger side footwell without additional wiring. There is more than enough wire and it runs from there TO the footwell!

Usually: www.rockauto.com

Whaaaaatttt!!! Maybe it's just the german cars that do that. All of my VWs had one glued onto the hood ( except the beetle which didn't have a hood.... or a panel... or a windshield! Thanks Pav!!

Another thing is it could be a bad ground from the battery OR oil has dropped / flung itself on something (oil acts as an electrical insulator).

The last one that I took off from an old VDO was just pushed on so I assume that a pry off might work. I have heard that some of the older german cars used an epoxy to hold the indicator in place, but I've never taken apart a japanese gauge.

HHhhmmmm.... Mine has blue, gray and 1 black relay. The fact that is is from Canada may make a difference since we have DTRL legislation, exhaust component legislation and stringent clean air legislation. California cars like Precise1's and the rest of the crew is the same. Anyway, mine on the driver's side ( behind the canister; run (from the outside in)) as 1 black, 1 gray, 1 blue and 3 blue ones on the passenger side outside of the box: 2 in front of it and 1 behind with one extra unused relay nearest to the firewall.

Exactly! Leave it in neutral for a few seconds ( I did mine solo so it was in neutral for about 12 seconds while I took a look under the front). Since the power steering lines run in the same area AND the rad is there color is going to be the determining factor in the fluid identification.

In that location I can only think of 2 things it might be: 1) Automatic transmission oil from the return side of the cooler or 2) radiator fluid from a crack somewhere. ATF is mostly a red color so if you put down a white sheet of paper / rag and start the truck and throw into neutral for a while and take a look at the ... ahh... white thing... then you should be able to tell what color it is. (assuming that it is a serious leak). I am doing a trans oil cooler bypass since mine just blew a large amount onto the rad / bash plate / hoses and ground. I would suggest you do the same since you also have the auto. Dead trans from a plugged return line is a dead truck.

The main headlight assembly box thingy but I have a Canadian model and they are required by law. But you can't start the engine without them being powered...

The vacuum line diagram is supposed to be attached to the underside of the hood, not that mine is any help since my hood is a replacement.

I'm running a Goodyear Wrangler Territory in 31x10.5 on the stock steel wheels. The SE is stock 31"x10.5".... you can fit up to a 33" but I don't recall whether you need to do any trimming.... ask adamzan that's what he's running.

As a thought: remove the positive off of the battery for 15 minutes or so, put it back on and then check the codes after you try to fire it again... that may throw some codes for you. Also, I noticed that I needed to have to light wired and powered to get any fire from the engine....

The blue connector could be for the heated seat option!

That was my bad though: that was supposed to be a 3.3..... sorry I didn't notice! Interesting I didn't know that there was a "3.4" unofficial designation!