SpecialWarr

I believe you'll need the one from the VG33 donor since there are more O2 sensors for that motor than than the 3.0 ( other stuff as well?)..... as far as the ecu unit itself: ssssomeone who's done the swap mentioned in a thread that the ecu from the auto will work with the manual trans but not the reverse. I don't know if the same holds true for the 3.3 series motors but i would think so.

Sorry... you are swapping a VG30 into a VG33 equipped vehicle? Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

Manufacturer Part Number: MECM-V260 A1 Emissions: Federal Transmission: Automatic Drivetrain: 4x4 Engine Type: 3.0L From an eBay posting for a 1995 Nissan Pathfinder ECU (unrelated) RedPath88: what are you doing up at 2:13am??

Ya, you could do a drop-in VG33 swap but if you have the time I'd go for this:

Haha.. okay! In that case I see no reason not to.... and as a bonus it looks awesomely hardcore! ! Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

I'm getting in on this show next week when I get a few minutes to get fleurys spacers installed in the back! Thanks Steve for the 2" kit, looks great!

Alrighty: so that available space measure out like this. With the exhaust and driveshaft in place and leaving 1" of space for clearance on all sides. That leaves little room for plumbing and venting. We have a maximum of 9" vertical 13" wide and 20" long to fit a tank. Total volume is 8 gallons minus the volume for the tank itself. Brackets can only be mounted on three sides ( two in the front) because of the driveshaft. The only thing under there next to it is the floor and that isn't strong enough by itself to hold one end of the tank safely. Access to the fuel lines that run inside the frame remains a problem with the tank in place. Other than those problems there are great places to mount the tank in front and room to work. A rock guard will remove another 1-1.5" from the vertical height and increase the weight and we would be back to the same "reinforcement/ safety margin vs. additional volume of fuel" problem. There exists the possibility of a conjoined tank ahead of the cross-member but its volume couldn't be more than 1.5-2 gallons at most.

I'll be happy to take some measurements later this week when I have a few minutes (off of my Auto 4x4 Pathfinder, just in case you were wondering ).. . and post them!

I wouldn't be worried about the mpg.... I should think you would be more worried about the strain on your shoulders and back muscles trying to get the thing ON the roof. Try it with a couple of bags of sand. You'll see what I mean. Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

Until you remember that yer keys are on the seat. D'Oh!! Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

I've heard of it being done with other vehicles and a couple of mentions in the forums here but there is no "how-to" on installing a secondary fuel tank. Of the few problems you might encounter are equilibrium (left/right), fuel tight seals, proper venting and suspension upgrades to handle the extra weight. Internal is going to be baffling orientation (to keep fuel from sloshing around) and filtration issues. But I can say that I was thinking about it as an idea and decided that with the extra total weight of tank, brackets, nuts, bolts and fuel I wasn't so sure that the frame was going to enjoy have another 150-250lbs of stuff slung in the space between the wheels on top of all of the usual junk in the truck need for an expedition. Frame reinforcement was the one problem that I couldn't figure out how to work around. If you decide to go for it and install one I, for one, would love to see some pictures and a how-to if you feel up to it!!!

I'm headed off to the auto parts place tomorrow and order a wheel bearing. The brakes were feeling a bit squishy on the way home. I think I may have left the bearing change a little late. Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

Ahhh.... is that a 2.7? I ask because I've changed my alternator and there are three bolts, two electrical connections and one belt.... no oil on a 3.0 v6 alternator. Since I have worked with banjo bolts a lot I know a good seal is very important ( I've been covered in hydraulic fluid more than once because I didn't confirm that the seals were good ). If you've moved the banjo bolts at all there is a chance that the seals are broken.

Most of the folks that I know would just light them on fire and let them burn out. It's not very E-friendly but it doesn't hurt, take effort or require big tools.

We would be grateful for as many photos as you can manage during the process!

Okay, so I'm just back from the truck: the good news is that three out of the four windows will go up and down from the driver's switch, the only window that doesn't is the passenger front. No movement at all. I assume that this is because the 240SX is a 2 door and on some models both windows go up and down at the same time.

I did try one out but I don't recall trying it out with everything else working. I'll try that out tonight and post up here later tonight with results!

Welll.... just for some variety I'm going to suggest the its the anti-frilberator within the serior hinge spring pin that has cracked! And I can't believe that google didn't somehow pick up that "frilberator" isn't a word....

Other than Pav's machine I've honestly only seen one other WD21... and yet there are always a few for sale here in Montreal.

Just saw this for sale and had a giggle to myself... http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1985-nissan-300zx-turbo/

http://www.courtesyparts.com/kb_search_result.php?keywords=[24078]+\(wd21&cPath=5572_5573_5611_5612 Or from www.nissanpartsdeal.com 24077-09G01 Harness-Sub, Engine Room Replaced by: B4077-09G00 FED. W/2D. VG30I. MT. F5 + CAL. W/2D. VG30I. MT. F5 01 $170.22 $128.48 24077-41G00 Harness-Sub, Engine Room FED. W/2D. Z24I + FED. V/2D + CAL. W/2D. Z24I + CAL. V/2D 01 $273.28 $206.27 24077-50G10 Harness-Sub, Engine Room Manufacturer's Note: Limited Availability 2WD. AT + 4WD. AT 01 $109.88 $82.94 24077-88G00 Harness-Sub, Engine Room Manufacturer's Note: Limited Availability 2WD. MT 01 $112.08 $84.60 24077-88G10 Harness-Sub, Engine Room W/4D. 2WD. VG30E. MT. F5. ST + Z24I + 4WD. VG30I. MT + 4WD. VG30E. MT 01 -- -- Discontinued 24077-88G15 Harness-Sub, Engine Room W/2D. 4WD. (VG30I+ VG30E). AT + W/4D. VG30E. AT 01 $112.08 $84.60

B? Are those three wheels all from the left side looking at the vehicle from the front? Something looks wonky on that last one.... or I haven't had enough coffee yet... or it's Friday.

I would think a separated wire off of the relay might be the problem but ... IDK for sure. Mine didn't come with the fogs!

I had a matter black Stumpjumper back some years ago that I got very dirty... and never got it clean again. I just assumed that it was the grey clay that is around here, not the paint itself! Bushnut, is your current machine matte black? JackStraw1: I do like the camo as an idea but my wife will have me shot for painting it that color. I also Pitched the zebra stripes, straight black, straight white and the Desert Runner scheme... none seemed to garner anything other than, scoffs, derision and "the look"...... I think I'll pitch the matte black stripe on red body and see what that gets for a reaction on Monday!

AstroTurf... hmmm.. I have seen that done. Not sure about how easy it will be to wax each strand though.... ( aerodynamics are important after all ) I have leanings towards something like this, matte black with red: Or easier repaint, red body with matte black stripe?