SpecialWarr

Misfire code and system lean code, both point to a fuel supply problem so start there. I would change the fuel filter for starters, worst case is that it delivers the same amount of fuel! The misfire could be anything from electrical to mechanical to electronic but the usual process of elimination of possibles is more important now.

The Gospel has been spoken! If Mr. Reverse says then it be!! A 2" lift should make it easier to drill out all the exhaust studs and install the M10 studs from the Z31 as well!

Depending on where you are , I have a fully operational VG30 installed in my old truck and running... swing by Montreal, QC and we can pull it out some weekend.... gift/ donation / donor to keep another WD21 running.

The Throttle Position sensor is possible but I suspect that the intake just needs a good cleaning for starters (watch the coolant lines going to the bottom of the throttle body and the 1 vacuum line on the bottom of the boot from the MAF). After that I would be at the aux. air idle thingy just in front of the firewall and next to the brake booster.... the tall thing with the electrical plug on the top of it.... that probably needs a good cleaning as well since its usually gunked up with PCV leftovers... As far as the MAF, cleaning _will_ help but adding an additional ground wire will also help. The TP adjustment is kind of finiky but requires a multimeter and someone who has the info for what values are needed for closed and full throttle.... @adamzan or @Mr.Reverse possibly. I don't recall those off of the top of my head. (You might want to do a search for TP sensor setting in here or google). The engine coolant temp is likely a poor ground on the back of the cluster or a thermostat that's stuck open. IF you go with the cluster make sure you have a 2" #2 Phillips screwdriver for the one screw at the top of the cluster and a 6" #2 for the rest of them. You'll then need a #1 or a #1 JIS to snug the screws on the back of the cluster down. That's about all I can help you with!

The Power windows is most likely the drivers' side master switch, I replaced mine a few years ago and then just made myself a dual pole, dual throw switch wired directly to the main power. A DPDT switch is about $5 and is wired in a sort of cross with the wire of one lower pole arcing over to the upper part on the opposite side with power and ground going to the center poles. The tacho and fuel gauge is a broken ground somewhere on or next to the fuel pump (most of the time?) or near the front of the tank where the wires come out and head forward. Back hatch is nothing other than the lift struts which you can pull off with a flatblade screwdriver and a 10mm socket( if memory serves correctly). $2500 sounds steep but IF everything worked and it looked clean I might be interested at that price. In its current state I would say closer to $1700 but that's just my two cents worth!!

And for the UUUUUber techie among us: The apparent advancement of the belt indicated by the marks on it in relation to the marks on the gears is a function of the number of total teeth in the assembly and the length of the belt. An even number of total teeth will "advance" the belt 2 teeth per complete rotation and an odd number of total teeth will "advance" the belt 1 tooth per rev. Don't know why... they just do! A fun way of seeing that in person is to play with the Lucas Oils gear display at the local auto parts store if they still have one.

Manik: good call.... That's pretty much what I was thinking as well.

Were those the little orange wires? Those should be thick and tight since they are 75amp or 100amp fusible links.... Your problem, methinks, was there long before you took the wires off! If she was stalling when you were moving them around then they have already been overheated and melted inside their liners. Basically you need to get some more (pick-n-pull is a good place to start) fusible links!

No difference in the blue dot or the black dot, my 1990 came with the blue dot injectors, replaced with a couple of Densos just because I was changing the fuel lines in between the rails and I had a bad injector (fouled I think) #2 if memory serves.... I think the Denso are the OE injectors, someone who knows for sure will hopefully correct me on that if I'm wrong. As far as the motor mounts goes I have no idea, never pulled the motor or watched it shake more than 3/4" even under throttle snapping.... Anyone else?

Full ladder and 4x4?? Conversation with wife: Baby? ummm, we have to make some changes to our vacation ot Cape Cod this year. Oh, are we not going there? Oh no no... we just have to make a small detour before we get there so I can pick up some Pathfinder parts! Alright, as long as it isn't a big detour I guess that's okay. Oh no... quite a small detour for a good frame.... we just need to swing by Utah after New Hampshire to go and get it and we'll be on the Cape in a few days!! [enter new character: annoyance] Ah.......no.

In that case: excess air is getting in and not being burnt if your HC is up, it's possible that the NOx is your intake air leak / pirate air. But knowing how easy it is to tear the bottom of the intake boot AND have a leaking injector I'm going to suggest that you have both problems until you can rule out positively that you have no air leak.

That wire is part of the motor grounding circuit and not really of concern. I suspect that there is pirate air getting in around the intake somewhere (yes.. very helpful, I know) but without a can of propane / something else that catches fire I can't help ya much. The only other thing I can think of is a blockage in the fuel delivery system (back to your "stumbling" problem) but since it runs super lean at revs it could be one of the hoses or the fuel pressure regulator that's going out. I would think you would smell fuel in the cab if there was a fuel rail/ injector problem sooooo... it must be either before fuel gets to the fuel rails or air getting into the intake after the MAF That's how I would attack the problem.

I'm out of ideas at this point! Maybe a bad ground (god knows that I did a lot of re-grounding of ground wires on my weekends)??

Torsion bars are a style of spring. The other types are : LEAF and COIL which most people are more familiar with. The Pathfinder uses torsion bars up front and coils out back. The Torsion bars are a long steel bar with a specific thickness and length that use the inherent "rebound" and "spring" of the steel itself to act as a supporting spring by preloading the bar with one end anchored to the frame and the other (adjustable) anchored to the suspension. The preload sets the ride height and spring force. Easy, simple system that can take a beating. To get to the wobble: I would think that would be a rear suspension bushing problem or possibly a broken frame. I never got mine to wobble but it was doing that on the way back after I broke the frame in the mud pit. I just never got up to 65... because I killed the alternator in the mud lake and borrowed a battery from a friend who charged my battery on the way home. There are a lot of bushings in the rear suspension so I think an hour or so with a pry-bar under there poking around and you might find the loose bushing. It could also be a panhard rod (keeps the rear axle centered under the frame of the Pathfinder) bushings that have rotted out or a rusted out DeDion tube (located over the axle). Really, you need to get a mechanic under there to take a look around!

Over on www.rockauto.com: PATHFINDER 3.0L V6 Electrical-Switch & Relay Door Lock Relay BECK/ARNLEY 2030109 {#25230C9961, 25230C9971 They're like $12 +tax and shipping.

I didn't have any relays on the drivers' side kick panel, but I do recall the power window relay. I was under the impression that the PW relay and the power door locks were both over there. I remember a round thing and that was for the power locks (two big wires?) and there was a square box (6 small multicolor wires with a split ground) which was for the power windows. Both should be hiding under the carpet, behind the kick panel and held on with a big 'ole Phillips screw through the inner steel body panel.

Being that it is a high power-demand circuit I suspect that there is a bad relay causing your issue. Not that I have a circuit diagram anymore, but I recall there being a crap-ton of relays in the engine bay on both the left and right sides. IF anyone has more specific directions for this fine gentlemen please chime in!

I'm thinking that the u-joints in the driveshaft might be shot. That's mostly because my Xterra is doing the something similar. Mine u-joints are so bad that it's like I'm driving down a rutted dirt road at speeds between 80-100 km/hr. I gave my driveshaft a wiggle while I was under there to replace the front wheel bearings and the thing shakes up and down almost 6mm and you can get it to make "kilcky-klincky" noises just like that.... clearly the u-joints are done on mine! The other thing that occurs to me is that there might be a loose mount or something, but I would think you would feel that in both loaded directions (accel. and decel) with a stab at the gas pedal. And last but not least: front suspension bushings?? But I'm throwing that out there as a wild one just trying to keep ideas coming!!

If you live anywhere near the northeastern end of the country, I have a whole Pathfinder with a mint and tight engine and drivetrain. IF you want to hop the border and pick it up!

Yea DD has a lot of good stuff! I'm going to plug my phone in and slide over to my laptop to do some more reading this afternoon. Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

That's probably the linkage behind the transmission on the left side. There is a ball and spring arrangement that "indexes" inside the transfer case that never seems to get serviced. I would give a shot of some spray grease or other lube on the linkage joints, that should be a big help.