SpecialWarr

That does seem normal to me. In reverse, 1st and 2nd the transmission is 'locked' in that gear choice. In drive there are at least two other gear options for the transmission control unit to choose from, which it will do according to its programming, in concert with the overriding control of engine operations from the engine control computer (tuned for regular street driving and fuel efficiency). That being said for a V6 from the 1990's it's not really that efficient compared to anything current.

I gotta say that sounds seriously like you need a new transmission. I wouldn't imagine there are that many in Alaska so maybe hit up eBay first and see what available there. After that I would do a full fluid flush from the cooler at the bottom of the radiator and run at least 20 liters through it... yes it's going to cost you 5 gallons of trans oil, but that is cheaper that a transmission install. Make sure that you run the truck through all of its gears while you are doing the flush, otherwise old oil might be lurking in places that it shouldn't. Expect oil leaks afterwards ( the new oil is less dense an _does_ seep past the seals) which should slow after a few months of "marking it's territory". That's all I've got... Anyone else have suggestions?

The 1990 has a 6 digit cluster, tops out at 999,999.9 assuming that one makes it that far!

I would let the truck warm up and then do the compression test, the coolant is most likely a head gasket so the compression test should tell you which one, the compression-hold test is the one you really want to use with a possible head gasket failure. It's a compression test done over time watching the _rate_ of pressure loss over a 5 minute window for each cylinder. All of the cylinders should be close except for one or two, depending on the specific type of failure You can do the compression test cold as well, I did mine cold and still had 169psi as the lowest reading of the six with the rest all hanging around the 175 to 180 psi mark. The #6 is a pain but if you have the original tool bag it has the correct length tool to reach all the way down to the #6.... there is a combination of regular extensions that will get you the same thing but hella difficult to get the plug back into its spot with the damn wobbly extensions. Take the hood off so you can at least have some space to work. It will make your life _much_ better!! As for the misfire, there are too many things to list to even begin what it _could_ be, but start with new plugs, wires, cap and rotor. That will eliminate the most irritating and easy things that MAY be slightly wrong / cracked/ broken /tracked or otherwise out of specification. After that we have lists and lists of things that can cause a misfire, but they cost more money! That's all I got for ya!

What he said! Do NOT remove the damn starter just to bench test it, it's 3 hours the first time to remove it and you won't be much further ahead. Other ting to do is to start with 1 full new can of brake parts cleaner and empty it on the starter, solenoid and wires, hit it with a degreaser as well and then there should be little to no chance that it is being caused by oil running down from the filter area ( cost me 1 original starter after 26 years of dutiful service ).

The IAC is super easy to clean after you get it off. The only real PITA part is getting your right hand under the rear of the intake to remove the retainer clip, and plugging the new one back in...

I did the same thing, and added a clean ground to one of the seemingly random bolts in the engine bay next to the MAF off of the new plug that I wired in. Not that I had an idle issue other than a super dirty IA and the requisite stumble while getting off of the highway.

Dude... now that you have me all hot and bothered with the sexy exhaust.... where's the video with awesome 3.0 sound!!

That's stock!! Lol!! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

My nephew as well, loves the Pathfinder and thinks that it is quite fun to drive up the 45 degree slope towards the cottage through the trees and over the rocks. I just need to make a rear e-brake line for the disc-brake rear axle and have the frame repaired before I give it to him on his birthday in a few years. Should be a hoot to see him driving it around for the first while!!

It was feeling like North Korea here for a while, Montreal is still in a heavily-restricted mode for now. In theory if things calm down next week we may begin to lift travel restrictions, but the island is still _the_ hotbed of the province. You and your Nonna should be in good shape from the qwebekers until the second wave hits in early October. In better news the regions outside of Montreal have all lifted travel restrictions and are running open stores in a limited number of industries. We bike shop folks are officially open today from 12-6pm, 1 employee per client, 6-foot minimum, clockwise circulation inside the store and no trying stuff on. You pick it out, we pack it up and carry it around for you until you 're done. Y'all pay and get out of the shop and then : "NEXT!!!" The Quebec government likes to make itself challenging at the best of times.... I haven't voted for anyone who has held office except for the Montreal mayor Valerie Plante.... I accept no responsibility for any of those retards and their decisions.

I would tell you to pull the starter but I don't think you have that much time on your hands AND it's probably the ignition switch anyway!

NICE!!!!

Right, so now the procedure is to follow the WHITE/BLUE wire along its path in the harness from the relay back to the fuel pump. This is going to be a visual inspection for broken and cracked harness covers, missing tape and exposed wires.... I would start at any place where the harness makes a turn or passes through a panel. I would personally start at the harness in between the front and rear doors and check for continuity in the white/blue wire there ( make sure your equipment is working AND that you get a good ground!). If you have low ohms there, then your problem area is at the rear of the truck. Move halfway along the wire from the middle of the truck to the fuel pump and check for continuity there: low ohms again means that your problem is closer to the fuel pump, high ohms means that you passed the spot where the wire is broken. The same is true for working in the other direction towards the front of the truck. Just keep splitting the distance in half until you are at the section that is the problem, chop the broken part out, throw some heat shrink on both ends and solder yourself some wire in there!

Not too far from adamzan we here in Montrèal, Canada have been on full lockdown for the last 6 weeks. No bars, restaurants, public parks, playgrounds, events, churches or schools of any type are allowed to be open. Period. 6 foot-rule is in effect on every square inch of the province with restricted travel even for essential workers. Don't have an authorization letter to travel to another county? BAM! $6000 fine. The lady in the SUV in front of me at the highway exit was pissed and yelling at the officer for getting a fine on Good Friday. Maybe she should have stayed home. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

I would tell you to drill 1/8" holes in the bottom and shoot them every year with P.O.R 15 type product. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Oh I am down for that, can't leave the city for the next million years because of the virus outbreak but I can dream! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Just did a quick shop on eBay, that proved to be useless! Maybe try signing up to eBay australia, since Thailand has a huge aftermarket parts for the WD21, you might be able to track something down there.

No power at the fuel pump is the broken ground wire or a chaffed wire loom between the exhaust on the left side and the tank guard. The diagram is of the connector at the fuel pump at the top of the tank back to the main harness, to be checked with the key on and engine off, there should be voltage at terminals 2 and 3( sequentially, no jumper needed). If you have 0 at both then it's the ground for sure.

i If I recall that should be over 43 at startup and 51 running warmed up at idle.

I was under the impression that the Front diff in the first gen Xterra was that same one as the one on the WD21 but I may be mixing things up in my head.... it's been a long time since I was shopping for Pathfinder parts.

These were plagued with a weak transmission cooler ( now quite popular in current vehicles) located at the lower tank in the radiator. IF, perchance, that is the the original rad, then the engine may have inadvertently mixed the coolant and transmission fluid. That would be bad. Usually though there would be at least some warning, no power going uphill, weak acceleration, lots of flaring....and if you pull the radiator cap you'll see oil floating around. If you have no oil in the rad you _should_ be alright on that front. Complete loss of drive and reverse does sound like more of a relay / elecritical power issue rather than a solenoid. Never heard of multiple solenoids all dying at the exact same time. I would look at the electrical side of things first, mostly a loose or broken ground cable is what I am suspecting, but don't rule out anything yet!

You'll be fine! You got this!!

Banned for not letting me know that there _was_ in fact, a "Photobucket".... we keep ours in a suitcase!

Banned for continuing to deny the awesomnessly awesomeness that is Photobucket!