Burco

Isnt there a check valve to hold the pressure in the fuel rail?

Yes, I did check the fuel pressure during power loss, and the pressure did not change. Update; I was discussing it with a friend of mine and waiting for an answer about "fuel pressure loss immediatly after killing engine". The problem went away. Has been gone for about a hundred miles and ten trips. I asked my friend if he did anything, and he mentioned shaking some electrical connections. I asked if he found any connections loose, and he said "No". I still need to determine the loss of fuel pressure immediatly after killing the engine, and check the also intermittant check engine code. Thank all of you for your valuable input.

My 95 V-6 Pathy either runs perfectly, or loses power to the point where it will only reach 25 mph. Always idles smoothly. Fuel pressure is 32 lbs. with Fuel pressure regulator connected, 43 with it disconnected. The pressure goes to zero immediatly when engine is killed. ( Not sure if that is normal ) It takes a few seconds to start, which may be related to the loss of fuel pressure. I have a check engine light on, that sometimes dissappears. I recently changed timing belt and plugs.

You say, "Idles perfect 800-900 rpm, One day in Nov 2017 - It started misfiring at 2500-3000 RPM" I am having a similar issue. My 95 V-6 Pathy either runs perfectly, or loses power to the point where it will only reach 25 mph. Always idles smoothly. Fuel pressure is 32 lbs. with Fuel pressure regulator connected, 43 with it disconnected. The pressure goes to zero immediatly when engine is killed. ( Not sure if that is normal ) Anyway, I am wondering if we have the same issue? When you say it misfires, what exactly does the car do? Loss of power, backfiring?

I agree with this line of thinking. Run a wire with a switch from batt to to the starter solonoid, you could even run it into the cabin. Then next time it happens, leave the key on and see if the switch will start the car. If car doesnt start, the alarm system would be suspect. If car does start, I personally could live with that vs. throwing time and expensive parts at it. ( My car just started doing the same thing. ) Intermittant problems are the hardest to diagnose.

I agree with this line of thinking. Run a wire with a switch from batt to to the starter solonoid, you could even run it into the cabin. Then next time it happens, leave the key on and see if the switch will start the car. If car doesnt start, the alarm system would be suspect. If car does start, I personally could live with that vs. throwing time and expensive parts at it. ( My car just started doing the same thing. )

Thanks for the good info. It is not at the top of my repair list, but I really love remote lock-unlock. I will ponder.

My "new" 95 Pathfinder came without a remote fob. Can I replace it or am I going to have to install an aftermarket unlocker/locker. Has anyone done this? I have done it on cars that came with no remote at all.

I suggest removing the air intake. Yes it is an unpleasant time consuming job, but you then could clean around the plugs with air and degreaser, and if necessicary, helicoil the plug holes. Would also let you inspect hoses and vacuum lines. Removing that intake was a hellish job for me.

If you did 20 of those without a tensioner, I wonder how many of them lasted another 100K miles without issue?

I used a "Browning Belt tension checker", which is easy to verify proper function by pressing it on a bathroom scale. A friend pointed out to me my failure to meet 22lbs was that the tension between the cams will not change until you rotate the engine a time or two. Ended up adjusting, rotating, measuring, repeat.....until getting 1/2" at 22lbs. I did not use a feeler gage at the tensioner like the book says. I bought two of the tension checkers off ebay. ( cost for two was slightly more than one. ) Now I have two tools I will never use again instead of just one. If you want one, let me know. It seems most just guestimate tension without disaster, but using the gauge and factory procedure gives me peace of mind. ( I do feel that if you charge some else for doing a belt, and do not use a tensioner, you are a shiester. A broken or slipping belt would destroy an enging long enough down the road where the owner would be screwed. ) This job has worn me out. I made so many mistakes, broke parts, JB weld fixes, bought tools, made tools, etc. Oh well, some play golf or fish. I work on old cars. During the fix, I decided to flush the cooling system with a water hose. Was not paying attention and shot water into a valve cover! After replacing belt, plugs, hoses, etc. I started engine, and it looked like an industrial mosquito fogger. Scared me to death. Let it run for ten minutes, smoke cleared,and all was good. Joke is on me. Thanks for your input.

How did you tension the timing belt? "The service manual has an elaborate method involving shims and weights. I used the method in this tutorial instead." The Factory manual and the Haynes manual are crystal clear on the 1995 about using a tensioner to obtain a certain deflection at 22lbs pressure. It seems no one uses this method, ( the tutorial you used did not ), and no one on you tube does, probably because a tensioning tool is something no one owns and no one is going to buy for a one time use. I did buy one,, because a slipping or broken belt on an interfearence engine would cost about 25 times the price of a tension gage. Anyway, the jokes on me because at maximum possible tension on my new Gates belt, I could only obtain 10 lbs pressure at 1/2" deflection. I suspect most shade tree mechanics ( I am one ), cut corners on factory procedures to some degree, often without catastrophic results. I am puzzled at my inability to obtain the required tension. Is it another case of a once reputable Brand ( Gates ), now outsourcing to the cheapest slave labor supplier? ( The belt sure feels tight as hell!) Hmmmmm...... How many miles have you put on your car since belt change?

How did you tension the timing belt?

How do you plan on tensioning the timing belt?