Burco

Isnt there a check valve to hold the pressure in the fuel rail?

Yes, I did check the fuel pressure during power loss, and the pressure did not change. Update; I was discussing it with a friend of mine and waiting for an answer about "fuel pressure loss immediatly after killing engine". The problem went away. Has been gone for about a hundred miles and ten trips. I asked my friend if he did anything, and he mentioned shaking some electrical connections. I asked if he found any connections loose, and he said "No". I still need to determine the loss of fuel pressure immediatly after killing the engine, and check the also intermittant check engine code. Thank all of you for your valuable input.

My 95 V-6 Pathy either runs perfectly, or loses power to the point where it will only reach 25 mph. Always idles smoothly. Fuel pressure is 32 lbs. with Fuel pressure regulator connected, 43 with it disconnected. The pressure goes to zero immediatly when engine is killed. ( Not sure if that is normal ) It takes a few seconds to start, which may be related to the loss of fuel pressure. I have a check engine light on, that sometimes dissappears. I recently changed timing belt and plugs.

You say, "Idles perfect 800-900 rpm, One day in Nov 2017 - It started misfiring at 2500-3000 RPM" I am having a similar issue. My 95 V-6 Pathy either runs perfectly, or loses power to the point where it will only reach 25 mph. Always idles smoothly. Fuel pressure is 32 lbs. with Fuel pressure regulator connected, 43 with it disconnected. The pressure goes to zero immediatly when engine is killed. ( Not sure if that is normal ) Anyway, I am wondering if we have the same issue? When you say it misfires, what exactly does the car do? Loss of power, backfiring?

I agree with this line of thinking. Run a wire with a switch from batt to to the starter solonoid, you could even run it into the cabin. Then next time it happens, leave the key on and see if the switch will start the car. If car doesnt start, the alarm system would be suspect. If car does start, I personally could live with that vs. throwing time and expensive parts at it. ( My car just started doing the same thing. ) Intermittant problems are the hardest to diagnose.

I agree with this line of thinking. Run a wire with a switch from batt to to the starter solonoid, you could even run it into the cabin. Then next time it happens, leave the key on and see if the switch will start the car. If car doesnt start, the alarm system would be suspect. If car does start, I personally could live with that vs. throwing time and expensive parts at it. ( My car just started doing the same thing. )

Thanks for the good info. It is not at the top of my repair list, but I really love remote lock-unlock. I will ponder.

My "new" 95 Pathfinder came without a remote fob. Can I replace it or am I going to have to install an aftermarket unlocker/locker. Has anyone done this? I have done it on cars that came with no remote at all.

I suggest removing the air intake. Yes it is an unpleasant time consuming job, but you then could clean around the plugs with air and degreaser, and if necessicary, helicoil the plug holes. Would also let you inspect hoses and vacuum lines. Removing that intake was a hellish job for me.

If you did 20 of those without a tensioner, I wonder how many of them lasted another 100K miles without issue?

I used a "Browning Belt tension checker", which is easy to verify proper function by pressing it on a bathroom scale. A friend pointed out to me my failure to meet 22lbs was that the tension between the cams will not change until you rotate the engine a time or two. Ended up adjusting, rotating, measuring, repeat.....until getting 1/2" at 22lbs. I did not use a feeler gage at the tensioner like the book says. I bought two of the tension checkers off ebay. ( cost for two was slightly more than one. ) Now I have two tools I will never use again instead of just one. If you want one, let me know. It seems most just guestimate tension without disaster, but using the gauge and factory procedure gives me peace of mind. ( I do feel that if you charge some else for doing a belt, and do not use a tensioner, you are a shiester. A broken or slipping belt would destroy an enging long enough down the road where the owner would be screwed. ) This job has worn me out. I made so many mistakes, broke parts, JB weld fixes, bought tools, made tools, etc. Oh well, some play golf or fish. I work on old cars. During the fix, I decided to flush the cooling system with a water hose. Was not paying attention and shot water into a valve cover! After replacing belt, plugs, hoses, etc. I started engine, and it looked like an industrial mosquito fogger. Scared me to death. Let it run for ten minutes, smoke cleared,and all was good. Joke is on me. Thanks for your input.

How did you tension the timing belt? "The service manual has an elaborate method involving shims and weights. I used the method in this tutorial instead." The Factory manual and the Haynes manual are crystal clear on the 1995 about using a tensioner to obtain a certain deflection at 22lbs pressure. It seems no one uses this method, ( the tutorial you used did not ), and no one on you tube does, probably because a tensioning tool is something no one owns and no one is going to buy for a one time use. I did buy one,, because a slipping or broken belt on an interfearence engine would cost about 25 times the price of a tension gage. Anyway, the jokes on me because at maximum possible tension on my new Gates belt, I could only obtain 10 lbs pressure at 1/2" deflection. I suspect most shade tree mechanics ( I am one ), cut corners on factory procedures to some degree, often without catastrophic results. I am puzzled at my inability to obtain the required tension. Is it another case of a once reputable Brand ( Gates ), now outsourcing to the cheapest slave labor supplier? ( The belt sure feels tight as hell!) Hmmmmm...... How many miles have you put on your car since belt change?

How did you tension the timing belt?

How do you plan on tensioning the timing belt?

Well....Round I dont remember the number. This job started as timing belt replacement. Due to the design and age of engine, and my fear of getting dirt in the plug holes I removed the air intake. A hellish job removing at least 20 hoses and plugs. Removing the EGR pipe resulted in breaking the upper cast connection, and givig up on the lower connection after making one tool, and buying a set of clawfoot wrenches and still could not loosen the lower connection. After 18 years of use and 10 years of sitting, I dont think anyone could remove these nuts while engine is in the car. Water hose flange had a finger size hole in it, $125.00. ( Should have used JB weld.) Broken cast EGR flange, JB weld. When re installing the harmonic balancer, broke the bottom of the belt cast cover. ( You must tighten the lower cover bolt BEFORE installing the HB. More JB weld. ( The front belt guide disk has a slot, but there is no corresponding keyway on the crankshaft. ???) People on youtube show adjusting the tension of the belt with a finger by the seat of the pants (which apalled me.) Try to push 22 lbs. on a bathroom scale with a finger. In order to do it correctly, I bought a Browning belt tensioner off Ebay. Book calls for 22 lbs, and 1/2" deflection. The eccentric tensioner, at maximun tension will only provide 10 lbs. tension. 10lbs!!! Well, I guess my 100 bucks was a lesson learned, because at least I know I did the best I could. I used a Gates Belt. Cannot exceed 10 lbs at 1/2". Perhaps a Nissan Belt would have provided the proper tension. I aint goin there. This has been a really tough job for me. If anyone else has replaced a timing belt, I would love to hear about your experience, and to know how you tensioned it. On a positive note, I am taking a home course in classic car repair, and learning about the miracle of JB weld.

Are we talking about the same car? I removed the air intake which was a job from hell. More hoses in tight spots than any car I have ever worked on. Some of the hoses have tight turns, and difficult access. Cleaned plug holes, and installed new plugs. Am suprised at the gap, at least 100 thousand, though engine was running fine. I suspect, after 200K and 22 years, these are the origional plugs. Re-installed air intake and alll hoses. Installing pass. side plug wires was pure hell. Installing driver side wires is not hell, it is impossible. Cant see plugs, cant get hands inside. How in the hell does anyone change these plugs? Do mechanics just charge for it and not change them? I can see no way to do this without removing the air intake and installing wires before plenum. This may be a good engine, but it had ZERO thought as to maintenance during the design. "Free" car is up to $1400.00 and 40 hours labor.

I was recently given a 1995 Pathfinder XE. Sat for 11 years, has 210K on a broken odometer. The free Pathfinder has cost me $1500.00 in parts, and at least 40 hours labor already. It drives good, but needs a ton of maintenance. I was replacing the timing belt ( on principal), came to find out it didnt need it. The L shaped water hose behind it I replaced on principle. The aluminum housing it connects to had a hole corroded in it where hose attaches. I sprayed water into the wrong orifice when cleaning the cooling system.!! Big mistake. Filled a cylinder with water through an open valve which I discovered when trying to turn the engine over by hand. ( By hand thank god. ) I removed the intake housing to access the three spark plugs from hell on the driver side of the engine. I dont see how anyone could change these plugs without getting grit in the spark plug holes and or cross threading the plugs. A hellish design when it comes to maintenance. I chose to remove this intake, which was the most difficult job I have ever performed on any vehicle. More hoses and sensors than you can believe, and some of the hoses are damn near impossible to access. Putting it back together is not going to be any easier. After removal, I vaacumed around the plugs, blew dirt, vaacumed, blew, removed plugs, and blew the water out of all plug holes. I then put about 3 ounces of oil in each, and rotated the engine 2 x 360 degrees. I then blew out the oil of all 6 cylinders, rotated 90 degrees, blew out all 6, etc., until I had rotated 360 degrees. I then re inserted spark plugs. I then took a shower to get the oil out of my hair and face and entire body. The plugs were more worn than any I have ever seen. Car ran fine though! I may replace with irridium plugs because I will never touch another 95 V-6 spark plug again after I finish this job. I will eventually finish repair on this SOB, but I made a lot of mistakes, and learned a lot on this job. A word of advice, if you replace the plugs on one of these, set aside LOT of time to clean around the plugs, and to get the new ones in without cross threading. The "funnel" shape of the plug holes and the fact they are horizontal guarantees they are full of sand and dirt. What a nightmare.