rc_cola_j Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Went Muddin' Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowboarder12345 Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Wait straight 6? What engine are you running? I didn't know VGs ever went straight 6 They didn't, that's an inline 4... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 I spent most of Saturday guesstimating, cutting out, and preping steel bits for a long overdue frame repair. Passenger side just in front of the rear wheel, over the trailing arm bracket (inside and outside) and the bottom section from the bracket forwards to the crossmember and a small reinforcement for the body mount. In total, 6 separate pieces of cold rolled 1018, cut, trimmed, fitted, deburred, sanded, cleaned, tacked in place and welded on after 2 hours of rust removal with a cordless drill and a wire wheel ( that was all that I had other than a 4" square piece of sand paper).... Two days later and I am still sore from all of that.... didn't take a single photo either. Get an angle grinder! You can get them for like 20 dollars on sale at crappy tire or princess auto. Do they have princess auto in quebecixco? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialWarr Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Get an angle grinder! You can get them for like 20 dollars on sale at crappy tire or princess auto. Do they have princess auto in quebecixco? Bought one from Canadian Tire three summers ago and put mayyyybeeee an hour on the motor since then. Pulled it out and the motor windings separated themselves from the contacts at the base of the motor within 30 seconds of lighting it up. Since I was in the middle of needing it, I just left it in the basement and kept going with the damn wire wheel. I knew that I didn't have enough time to drive for an hour to get another one. All of the other ones are $150 at the local Home Hardware, Rona and Marcil.... I don't have that kinda money so wire wheel it was going to be! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuong Nguyen Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 Took apart my washer pumps and lubed the Shafts. Hopefully it lasts a few more years. Now, for new spray nozzles. Figured out why I was losing brake pressure. The vacuum hose to the booster dry rotted and cracked. Replaced with some leftover transmission oil hose. I still need to tighten down on the master cylinder to booster nuts since they were kind of loose. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrelcocko Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 Took apart my washer pumps and lubed the Shafts. Hopefully it lasts a few more years. Now, for new spray nozzles. Figured out why I was losing brake pressure. The vacuum hose to the booster dry rotted and cracked. Replaced with some leftover transmission oil hose. I still need to tighten down on the master cylinder to booster nuts since they were kind of loose. When I got my Pathy the washer pumps didn't work for the front nor the back. I finally ran the problem down after replacing both pumps well cleaning the original pumps then replacing them still no go finally figured it out using the FSM manual. The Wiper amp was bad. Replaced it from the local Pull-a-Part they work again. Yahooooooooooo!! Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CO_pathfinder Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 Not rpm dependent? Only when turning? The first grinding noise gets faster as i speed up while turning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reshma Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 (edited) IAB install. **edit : AND FILLED GAS! WHOO HOO!!** Edited February 1, 2017 by Reshma Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtbike23 Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 Wait straight 6? What engine are you running? I didn't know VGs ever went straight 6 nope...its a four banger, TD27, diesel... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuong Nguyen Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 DO NOT BUY DORMAN REPLACEMENT DOOR HINGE KITS! THE BUSHINGS INCLUDED SUCK AND BREAK! ORDER NISSAN REPLACEMENT BUSHINGS! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 DO NOT BUY DORMAN REPLACEMENT DOOR HINGE KITS! THE BUSHINGS INCLUDED SUCK AND BREAK! ORDER NISSAN REPLACEMENT BUSHINGS! They seemed to work fine for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reshma Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 DO NOT BUY DORMAN REPLACEMENT DOOR HINGE KITS! THE BUSHINGS INCLUDED SUCK AND BREAK! ORDER NISSAN REPLACEMENT BUSHINGS! They seemed to work fine for me. Lambo Doors for the win Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuong Nguyen Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 They seemed to work fine for me. Maybe they switched suppliers? Who knows. I'll shoot an email to Dorman when I get home from work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuong Nguyen Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 Busted out the drill. Damned stuck bushing no more! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 Maybe they switched suppliers? Who knows. I'll shoot an email to Dorman when I get home from work. Maybe, I did the passenger side but I haven't been able to free the pins on the drivers side which sucks. We'll see if that set is okay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialWarr Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 Maybe, I did the passenger side but I haven't been able to free the pins on the drivers side which sucks. We'll see if that set is okay. I figure that ya just have to find a rock small enough to drive onto and big enough to get a drifting rod and a decent swing with a hammer from the bottom of the hinge..... no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 I'm so confused on what you just wrote! Come do it for me, ill give you beer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 Mine took a fair bit of beating back and forth to get them to move. One thing that helped was drilling a hole in the cylinder and shooting a little PBlaster in there to work on the seized pin from the inside. I used Dorman bushings and pins and had no problems with either, though I did end up welding the pins to the hinge plates since the stock pins had seized and wallowed out the holes. I did have some trouble installing the new bushings (I think those were proper Nissan parts but it was a while ago) when I did the pins in my '95. The cylinders were corroded to hell inside and I couldn't get a drill bit in to clear them out properly, so the bushings squished a little as they went in and gripped the new pins hard enough that they stripped out the brand new hinge plates (that didn't fit right anyway). The hinges on these really are a lousy design, made worse by whatever muppet decided to weld the cylinders to the door where you can't get to them properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunchie Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 Another "Inherent Design Flaw"...Fixin other people's screwups. Hey how cum no one ever mentions heat in combination w/penetraiting fluid??? WORK SMART PEOPLE, NOT HARD! And by heat, I dont mean flame but a heat gun. $20, they're cheap. We use to sell a product called Super Carumba...Amazing stuff and FUN TO SAY! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RIPB.88 Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 Finally got my Warn manual hubs installed. Got tired of the pile of S#!t auto hubs randomly engaging 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowboarder12345 Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 Couple steps closer to having somewhere to stick the spare tire and a winch. Not the greatest front ends for mounting beefy bumpers though I must say... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 Mine took a fair bit of beating back and forth to get them to move. One thing that helped was drilling a hole in the cylinder and shooting a little PBlaster in there to work on the seized pin from the inside. I used Dorman bushings and pins and had no problems with either, though I did end up welding the pins to the hinge plates since the stock pins had seized and wallowed out the holes. I did have some trouble installing the new bushings (I think those were proper Nissan parts but it was a while ago) when I did the pins in my '95. The cylinders were corroded to hell inside and I couldn't get a drill bit in to clear them out properly, so the bushings squished a little as they went in and gripped the new pins hard enough that they stripped out the brand new hinge plates (that didn't fit right anyway). The hinges on these really are a lousy design, made worse by whatever muppet decided to weld the cylinders to the door where you can't get to them properly. The pins on mine are seized as well. When I got the truck, they weren't and the door pins seemed tight. I assume over the 6 months it sat they seized and the wear was accelerated. Where did you get the hinge plates? The plastic @!*% on the striker is getting all chewed up because of this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citron Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 Cleaned out the air duct by the fan resistors. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjotrainbrain Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 Washed about a million tons of salt off of it. I swear, Michigan winters are going to kill this thing long before any crazy stunt I pull... Any suggestions for rust repair inside the back door well (the curved part by the wheel)? Seems like it would be a pain in the $@* to replace anything in that area. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citron Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 If it is just surface rust, sand it and coat it with something. Beyond that, I don't know much about body work. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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