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Everything posted by Snowboarder12345

  1. Well, the noise is still there. A quick test drive around the block confirmed it. I did find a fskced rear wheel bearing, bad enough where the race was chewed up a little. It was the one that was full of oil instead of grease. I was pretty hopeful that that was source of the noise I have been hearing but obviously this is not the case. When I get the chance to get some work done again I'm going to drop the fluid on the transfer case, diff and transmission just to see if I see anything else out of the ordinary that might explain what the hell is going on.
  2. It's a loud constant chattering/howling noise when decelerating from any speed above 50kmph. It got louder after the last batch of work I did, and now is noticible through all speeds while either decelerating or just cruising along maintaining speed, but it changes in intensity depending on the speed. At 5kmph it almost sounds like warped brake caliper rubbing softly on a high spot if that makes sense. There is zero play that I can feel in any direction on the pinion bearing or the carrier bearings so I don't think it is them.
  3. Hope you can find the time to get your rear end sorted out! I know the feeling for sure. You hit a bit of a wall and think "Well, looks like I've got other things I need to do anyways this week..." and the next thing you know it's been 6 months since you've even looked at it.
  4. There is nothing subtle about my noise. It could be exagerated due to the fact that I have no carpet, rear seats or any sound deadening mechanisms at all any more but when it starts it is loud as hell right out of nowhere. But I think I may have found it now. I pulled both axles completly out and low and behold the passenger side inner wheel bearing seal was not sealing any more. The area between the inner and outer bearing seal was filled with metally oil, and there were some small metal chunks trapped in there too. There was no grease left on the wheel bearing, just oil and little blobs of metal powder sludge. I'm guessing the inner seal failed a while ago, allowing oil to reach the old grease and wash it away? Possibly it even failed when I did the locker install originally. The grease left on the drivers side is definitely done, it's black and it smells burnt BUT it is still all there, and there is no metal in it from what I can see right now. Holy @!*% I hope this is finally it. Gonna order new seals and bearings tomorrow.
  5. Anyone have any more insight into this? Kinda dropped off the map but I've started working on my pathfinder again now that I have time. I ended up swapping another whole 3rd member into my diff housing. Put everything back together, and pushed my rear end back with my adjustable trailing arms. I admit, I forgot to check my pinion to transfer case angle at the time. I didn't drive it at all. This week I put like 20km on my vehicle in a shakeddown to remember where I left off. Still chattering like crazy on deceleration. So I checked my pinion angle, and it was out by like 10 degrees. I fixed that, did a tape measure alignment on the rear end and topped off the diff oil. Checked my transfer case oil, it was fine. Greased both rear U joints just because. Drove it once more around the block last evening and the chattering only got worse. Got back home, dropped the diff oil and boom, metal dust everywhere again. fskc. Pulled the 3rd member out late last night and nothing is obviously fskced but I all I did was a quick look and wiggle. I have no idea at this point. The only thing I wonder is what are the odds of this being like a bad wheel bearing or something, where perhaps an oil seal has failed and is allowing crap to seep into the diff? Going to rip it all apart tonight and investigate but I'm kind of at a loss right now. I can't see a known good 3rd member just annihilating itself over that kind of small distance but who knows.
  6. Well, it looks like I pushed my rear axle back too far. After some driving and testing and flex testing the suspension out in the field so to speak, I now know this for a fact. The spring perches on the unibody are too far forwards compared to the axle to allow the coil spring to compress properly and safely. Under more than half flex the coil springs start to bind up on the mounts themselves and shift around and compress weirdly. Approaching obstacles like steep ditches and the like head on is fine, but trying to crawl though things at an angle gets sketchy. When I parked on top of a ditch and hopped out to look at what was going on a couple of days ago I was truly scared I was going to explode a coil spring. So, I think I'm going to have to move the unibody spring mounts backwards. I toyed with the idea of converting to coilovers, but I've ruled that out due to cost. I could also have the driveshaft shortened, but I really don't want to pay to have my driveshaft modified again. I have seen that people are happy with the land rover coils so far, so I am considering doing that conversion at the same time just to get rid of my chopped jeep springs but we'll see about that. Hopefully I can get on this soonish depending on work and weather. In much more interesting news, I picked up 2 Chevy 10 bolt axles out of an old suburban a few weeks ago for a steal. They need some TLC for sure, and the front axle will need to have the diff flipped to the drivers side etc etc... Not saying it will happen soon at all but I think I've started collecting parts for an SAS. I probably will not use the rear axle but I couldn't take one without the other, and you never know. And Swamp Thing broke... it needs a bunch of welding repairs but the mud season is done so that's low priority atm.
  7. To get 35s on mine I had to buy the rims with the ?lowest? backspacing I could possibly get my hands on AND cut the crap out of my fenders AND I still have to run 2" wheel spacers to get the tires to clear the struts. And I'm lifted 6" to boot...
  8. If you go with 12.5" wide 35s you will not only have to trim stuff but you will also probably have to run some wheel spacers too, unless you can get your hands on some rims with crazy backspacing.
  9. So... I am not dead and fortunately neither is the pathfinder. Back in January my no run issue ended up being caused by the fuel return and feed lines being ass backwards in the tank hookup, and with a mostly empty tank it would run on fumes and then cut out. But in the process of trouble shooting I managed to screw up a few other things like my timing and my idle sensor so all in all it actually took quite a while to figure out and make right. But currently the engine runs like a champ. However, I am still having rear end noise issues at speed. Part of the problem ended up being my drive shaft length. At ride height the shaft was fully pinched between the diff and the transfer case, resulting in transmission noise as well as differential noise. I caught that in time to avoid damage fortunately. And now after another drive tonight I have a feeling that the noise I am hearing is coming from my rear brake drums rubbing on the sheet metal guard that wraps around the backside. If this is the case I should have it sorted out soon. On my test drive tonight I also managed to displace a coil spring while flex testing through some V-ditches and getting the wheels flexed out in the air, but that should be a minor fix. Long term I think I want to look at coil overs, or land Rover springs but we'll see about that. No pictures due to my phone camera being broken unfortunately. Part of the reason this has all taken so long is that I've been super busy with work, and I've taken on several more important projects since January that have all just made the time fly by. Speaking of, say hello to Swamp Thing... Not gonna spam the crap out of it on a Nissan forum but it'll probably pop up here or there when I finally get out and start having fun in the Pathfinder ?
  10. Camp shifts and daily driver shenanigans have kept me away from the pathfinder for a couple months now. Fingers crossed I can finish the last little bit of work she needs in a month or so and finally drive her...

    1. mjotrainbrain


      I certainly look forward to it! Yours is such a beast build.

  11. Imgur is where it's at, the are closely associated with Reddit so they shouldn't be going anywhere soon.
  12. Standard OEM struts will work with an SFD, and as far as I know you can't buy longer than stock struts even if you wanted too. Basically all the SFD does is drop the entire stock front suspension assembly away from the unibody effectively lifting the vehicle. Should you have to replace the rear shocks though you will have to take measurements because the stock shock absorbers will be too short, and finding new rear springs boils down to whether a spring spacer came with the kit or the PO chose to just put in longer springs. EDIT: I totally didn't see the other thread with all the other replies....
  13. I unhooked mine completely, with the 6 inch lift and the lsv hooked up the braking power was down significantly. Brakes felt good on my quick tool around a couple weeks as far as I could tell, but in the future I'd like to buy an aftermarket one that can be adjusted manually.
  14. Fair enough, mine was all original as far as I could tell when it did the work. It may have just been ****** luck even but who knows. I have not been able to drive my pathy since I've done all the work but I'll be sure to let you know how things progress as I put some miles on the new setup. Also, I had a hell of a time finding info on this when mine went, I couldn't find any info from anyone who had had the same problems as me upon lifting. The other problem was there are no specialized small shops locally, and my local Nissan dealership is less than useful when it comes to this kind of thing.
  15. My rear end shredded itself about ~150km after lifting 6". I never was able to figure definitively if it was because of the driveline angles or if it was because I messed up somewhere when I installed my locker because I did it all at once. Looking back though my guess is that it was just the driveline angle because we installed a locker on my brother's pathfinder at the same time and he has not had any problems, plus I remember feeling a bunch of play in the pinion bearing when removing the 3rd member. If I were you I would check my diff oil, as when mine was on it's way out I started feeling vibrations and hearing grinding when decelerating like you have said and it very quickly got worse. When I dumped my diff oil as a check it was full of metal. If you scroll back through my build thread you will see what I am talking about. So far I have made all new longer adjustable trailing arms to push the rear axle back to where it should be and square up the pinion with the transfer case. I had to get a regular 1 piece driveshaft custom made locally after all that ($400 CAD unbalanced), but it isn't a double Cardan style. DC will be my next step if this does not all work out. And I have not yet reinstalled my locker just in case, I want to isolate variables and I don't want to expose it to a metal slurry again if I can help it.
  16. Have a pic, shop dust and all for @!*%s and giggles. For Snowboarder12345
  17. Did you ever find out what the problem was Bruce? I am having the same issue with mine currently. If I hit the accelerator pedal while the revs are still high it will keep it running, though poorly, and giving it gas once the revs have started to drop off does nothing and it still dies.
  18. If this is a product you think you might ever sell I'd keep all the digital stuff under wraps. Last thing I'd want if I had put that much work into a product is for someone to rip it off and put it into production themselves.
  19. Getting the mounts sorted out is the hardest part of making a bumper imo, I certainly agree with you there. I think this is a great idea, and I love the fact that you have figured out how to utilize as many of the bolt holes at the front of the frame as possible for mounting strength. Have you given any thoughts to pricing yet? Would you be plasma cutting the pieces yourself or getting that done by a local shop? With this as a base I'd bet that you could offer many different styles of bumpers as bolt together kits even, let alone weld together. I think you are really on to something with this.
  20. Thanks Micah! Yeah definitely a function over form thing with those, they are there purely to keep me free of tickets. At least I'm not in BC or out east though haha, they have it way worse!
  21. Looks good! Got a link for the license plate bracket and light by any chance?
  22. I jinxed it! Went to fire it up before I left this past the weekend and it would crank and fire up fine but wouldn't stay running for more than 5 seconds or so. My guess is a critical sensor problem but I won't be able to find out until my shift is over. She's staying put until then.
  23. That looks intricate! What are the half dozen square holes going to be for?
  24. You will need some capacity to cut reasonably thick steel and weld the mounts you make to the bumper. The rest will be just measuring. Making just mounts is not that much of a pain if you have the capacity to do so.

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