Snowboarder12345

Anyone know of an easy way to remove this hard insulation without creating a giant mess? Or should I just bedline over it?

Anyone ever deleted their charcoal canister and not had the CEL come on? My idea is to splice resistors into the wiring harness to mimic the signals that the sensors would send back to the ECU, but I'm wondering if perhaps there is a simpler way. I want to get rid of it because it's just one more thing to fail, and I could see it perhaps letting water into my fuel system down the line should I ever get adventurous.

Thanks! Usually I lift on the rear diff and then I put big ass logs with 2x6s under the lifting points circled in red, then I put a safety log under the rear bumper just in case. Please excuse the mess in the pictures.

Progress is slow but steady. Pretty much the whole underside is gutted for repairs, paint and waterproofing. The panhard pillar is fairly rotted out so I will be cutting part of it out and fabbing up a new one. Both the upper trailing arms were so rusted that I would deem them no longer safe, and all the bushings on all the trailing arms are on their way out so I will be making beefier trailing arms from scratch. The pathy should look like new underneath though by the time I am done. I just finished wire wheeling and priming the axle housing tonight, seeing how nice it looks now is really making me excited. 10k# Warn winch is also ordered. Oh, and there is now a parts-finder.

Really getting into it now...

Iirc some subie injectors will fit in the stock fuel rail.

+1 to this, wheel the f*ck out of it and let it go out in a blaze of glory

The stock air inlet itself is already tucked up inside the fender, but the airbox shoots straight down in behind the stock bumper, and then routes air up through a hole in the sheet metal into the filter box which is inside the engine bay. The problem with it is that it's full of holes which let water and gunk into the intake system even when it's hidden behind the bumper, and it's only made out of plastic. I gutted all that when I installed my snorkel, but iirc the airbox drops down at least as low as the windshield washer reservoir, maybe even a little lower. So it's not really the inlet itself that is the weak point in the system, the weak point is the air box.

Thanks! Any idea if your bumper will be large enough to completely protect the windshield washer reservoir and airbox, or is that what you were referring to? Skidplates aside that is the only thing that worries me about my bumper, I'm going to have to relocate the reservoir for sure.

Mounts wise this is how I made mine. I connected upper and lower factory mounts with 3/8 plate which was slotted to fit the 4x4 tube that is the bulk of the bumper. It's definitely stronger than the vehicle frame it's mounted to. It'd be pretty easy to adapt this to your design I'm thinking if you felt so inclined.

Called about getting my rear diff rebuilt because I just don't have the time to do it myself right now. Their "10+" year tech told me that "I just wouldn't be happy with the result" and that "They just don't do that kind of work over here." Wtf is that? Didn't even mention I also wanted them to do my clutch, I just hung up.

Made a decent dent in the front bumper. I've also resolved to never call the local Nissan dealership again because they truly are a useless bunch of twats.

2000-2004 iirc. It came in the Frontiers and Xterras

Anything is possible if you throw enough time and money at it, but dropping any engine in besides a 3.5 will have to be a totally custom project.

He says without posting pics!

So as it turns out, the gears in my differential were shredding themselves. Wear pattern indicates that the pinion was too close to the ring gear. I am not sure if this was somehow caused by something I did when I installed my airlocker, or if it may have been caused by stresses from the lift on old parts. I haven't pulled the carrier apart yet and had a look to see how the pinion bearings look, but my suspicion is that it may have something to do with one of them being worn or failing. While there is almost no noticeable play there is a slight chafing sound when the pinion is rotated by hand. But I really have no clue as of now. The new gear set is on the way though, so when that gets in and I start pulling things apart more maybe there will be more answers.

So, time for an update I guess. I figured out that my driveline vibration was actually the gears in my rear diff shredding themselves. I must have done something wrong when I installed the air locker, or perhaps it was just ****** luck that it went when it did. I'd daily'd it a few times in and out of town and the noise/vibration was definitely getting worse, so I chucked her up on blocks and with some help from my dad finally isolated the noise to the rear diff. I dropped the oil, and what came out was less like oil and more like pearlized grey paint. There were no large chunks whatsoever, it was all just superfine particles. The particles were so fine that they didn't separate after sitting for a week undisturbed. Looking at the gears one can see very obvious wear. Now, I wasn't sure if this was enough wear to write off the gears. But after checking the wear pattern with marking compound the patterns indicated that the pinion was too close to the ring gear, on both the drive and coast sides. The wear pattern was kind of all over the place though, and not consistent at all in placement on the tooth faces which I figured meant that the gears hadn't at least been worn evenly. So with that being said, I went ahead and ordered a new gear set. I'd rather be safe than sorry, I don't want this to happen again and I'd rather start with a fresh gear set. The local scrap yard wanted $500 for a used carrier so that was a no go. Now the good news in all this is that the carrier bearings and the locker itself are fine, fortunately. So yeah, once the parts come in I will be having a go at rebuilding the diff. I also have a centerforce 2 clutch coming with the gears, which will both hopefully come in this coming week, allowing me to get to work when I get out of camp again. Aside from that, I've not really done much recently except for a handful of little things. I'm now rocking some sheet metal fender flares with inner fender liners (no pics of currently) and I got started on a front winch bumper. It's just the main tube right now though, nothing exciting to look at. I chopped and then welded the upper and lower factory bumper mounts together into one larger mount so they should now be plenty strong to pull on with a winch, even mounted higher up like mine will be. And that's all that's worth mentioning for now I guess .

I ordered a centerforce II. Still waiting on it to come in. Hopefully it will reach me by next week and I can have it installed.

I'm pretty well set on trying my hand at turboing my pathy next winter. I will probably start ordering parts this summer, and maybe start chipping away as they come in. So yes, the plan is to squeeze a fair amount more power out of it. Plus I am running 35s, they will be hard on the clutch when offroading regardless of the power being put out.

Rubber fuel line seems to work well to extend most of the breathers, that's what I did with my diffs. I just spliced into the existing lines for now, but I plan on routing all my breathers up into the pillars eventually. I've heard of people using tupperware with holes cut to suit and a @!*%load of silicon to waterproof stuff like distributors and ECMs. Might be worth just relocating the ECM up into the roof though. And beyond that dialectric grease everything and yeah seal it up with electrical tape.

Anybody upgrade to any of the Centerforce clutches sold on 4x4parts? Anyone heard anything about how they run and last? I'm pretty sure my throwout bearing is toast, and now that I'm running significantly larger tires on a clutch of unknown mileage I kind of figure I should just get in there and do it all at once. I also want to do some power adding mods at some point as well, so there is that to consider. I'm looking specifically at the Dual Friction clutch (http://www.4x4parts.com/i-18980333-pathfinder-centerforce-dual-friction-clutch.html). Basically the more I modify my pathfinder the more I want to do and the further I want to go with it, so I wouldn't want to spend money on a clutch (or any other large component for that matter!) and have it become a limiting factor down the road. As always I am all ears to all suggestions, and always eager to learn something or about something I am lacking knowledge in. TIA!

That does make sense, thank you guys for setting me straight

I was alway led to believe running lockers was more strenuous on a driveline? I'm thinking now though that is more due to the situations one tends to get into with a more modified rig perhaps? That being said though, the CVS are the weakest link in the driveline are they not?

Expect to break cvs, but I haven't really heard anything bad about lokkas

Same noise, just not as loud and it goes away after a second or two.