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Posts
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DarekG last won the day on March 25 2017
DarekG had the most liked content!
About DarekG
- Birthday 11/21/1989
Previous Fields
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Your Pathfinder Info
2001 R50 3.5L VQ35DE 5-Speed
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Mechanical Skill Level
Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
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Your Age
22-29
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What do you consider yourself?
Weekend Warrior
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Model
SE
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Year
2001
Profile Information
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Gender
Male
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Location
Canada
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Country
Canada
DarekG's Achievements
NPORA Regular (2/5)
54
Reputation
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I've been driving it for a few weeks with the blower going and no issues, so I can basically confirm that it's normal for it to get searing hot but it needs to be screwed back into the air duct before you decide to "test" it. It's odd because now the highest speed (Which is supposed to bypass the resistor completely) is the only one that doesn't work now. I thought maybe I blew a fuse but both 15A blower motor fuses were fine. I'll test with a new resistor to confirm it myself. As for my fingers, I've gone "Men in Black" on some fingers and that thumbprint no longer unlocks my iPhone.
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Hey guys, I have an issue I've been chasing for a while now, here's a bit of background. I have a 2001 3.5L SE and at one point last year the HVAC/Blower only blew on the highest setting. A bit of research told me that this was due to the blower motor and/or resistor for the controls. As recommended I ordered both a new blower motor and a new resistor. Just to test it out I put in the new blower motor and it didn't turn on or blow air - So that means it's the resistor. For reference here is the type of resistor I mean. Now being a dummy, I didn't know much about these at all. So just to "test" it I plug the resistor into the harness but don't screw it back into the duct. I turn on the Pathfinder and turn the HVAC on and the motor blows for about 5 seconds then shuts off. I start to smell burning. I panic and turn the truck off.... Then I go and feel the resistor... Burned the ever living fskc out of my fingers doing so. Another 10 seconds of Google tells me the resistor is cooled by constant airflow from the blower motor and must be screwed back into the duct. I screw it in, and now the fan blows but only on the first 3 settings, not the 4th setting (which is when it stopped working) and I can visibly see discoloration around the edge of the resistor. My questions are.. I'm guessing I burned the part of the resistor that controls the highest blower settings which is why it doesn't work. Can someone confirm? Is it normal for these resistors to get so damned hot? It instantly seared my skin on contact and started smoking. (Lesson learned.) I've heard of some "aftermarket" blower motors "pulling too much current" - Is this even possible considering I have the proper fuse in place? I'm gonna order another resistor I guess, but, is it normal for these to get as hot as fire?
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The recommended ones above worked perfectly, these wheels and tires gave me about 2 inches more clearance and have way nicer fitment than the OEM Nissan wheels. Very happy with how it turned out..
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Yes please!
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Anyone have opinions on the best drop-in replacements for headlights for a 2001 3.5L SE? All I have to go off of is the vendor's themselves and according to them, they're all the greatest. My headlights currently barely illuminate 15ft in front of me, the highbeams barely break 20ft.
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Thank you so much, gonna try these!
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Yeah the backspacing is fine. I managed to put it on with the Nissan acorns on the front just to test fitment, they cleared full lock. Unfortunately by biggest challenge the the lug nuts. Apparently 1.25's in mag style are hard to find.
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Has anyone ever put factory Toyota wheels onto a Nissan? Apparently they use mag style lug nuts with 12x1.50 threadpitch which is really uncommon from what I've found. Nissan wheels use regular acorn style nugs with 12x1.25 and finding them in a mag style nut is difficult. I think I found something that might work, was wondering if anyone else has had success with this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/24-Pc-Wheel-Lug-Nuts-Toyota-Lexus-Mag-Wheels-Fit-Nissan-Subaru-12x1-25-Studs-/371923991662
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While you can't really beat a 2016 Tacoma saying a R52 can't go off-road is just a big fat lie. Check out my Whipsaw video in the pics and video section, completely stock R50 with VQ35DE and bald old winter tires on one of the most iconic 4x4 trails in the PNW. It's now what you drive, it's how you drive it.
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Had a lot of fun in the snow this weekend, maybe posting a video but I didn't get a lot of great footage. This climb was much steeper than it looked, trail went a few KM with intermittent patches of dry area with heavy, wet snow separating them. Held the throttle constant while in 2-LO and managed to get my bald winter tires all the way to the end of the trail!
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New product for the SFD Crew - SFCreation.com
DarekG replied to fleurys's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
I would say a winch bumper or rock sliders. It sounds like both might have issues with shipping. Even just straight up tube bumpers would be OK in my books... -
New product for the SFD Crew - SFCreation.com
DarekG replied to fleurys's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
How much do you estimate the sliders would weigh? Shipping as separate packages not an option? What about Purolator or some third-party? Do you have a friend on the west coast you would be able to ship a profitable amount to, which he could distribute? Just flingin' ideas out there because sliders are basically the last piece to complete basic truck armor. -
VQ35 excess oil consumption - Is it terminal?
DarekG replied to Martinjmpr's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
She's just thirsty! -
2001 SE - Just about 270,000KM, no leaks, oem struts are in great shape, just replacing the rear springs but it feels like a new vehicle to me. One of the better impulse buys in my life.
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New product for the SFD Crew - SFCreation.com
DarekG replied to fleurys's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
When are the SF Creation rock sliders coming?